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REF f979.4 H6295 History of Humboldt County, California : 1881. ^ W^*I2TH AND CASTRO STS.. OAKLAHDr^^^^T^gr^ IS? ^^J-F3 D2' tOMMEIIl'IAL ST., S. F. Sl=~^t :^^^l^P^ 93^7

A FEW WORDS OF EXPLANATION. We have te pleasure of presenting to our patrons one of the largest a . most elegant County Histories yet issued on this Coast. Not only ample in the number and b.auty of its illustrations, and quality of paper and binding, but also in the extent and accuracy of its historical matter. We hope our efforts to represent the important features of this county may lead its inhabitants to understand and appreciate more fully its varied resources. We hope we have furnished information to the traveler, the tourist, or the emigrant who is seeking a location. The book is fully illustrated, as may be seen at a glance, with views of many of the principal residences, mills and business houses of the county. Portraits of many of the pioneers appear, as well as of county officers and prominent citizens. We are especially indebted to the following citizens for information, or for articles of value for this history which we have incorporated in the work, or given credit therefor: Hon. J. Clark. E. H. Howard, Wm. Ayers, W. F. Huestis, W. H. Wyman, J. S. Thomson.. L. T. Kinsey, G. H. Shaw, J. B. Casterlin, Jackson Sawyer, Richard Johnson, W. P. Daykin, etc. We have been in many cases unable to give proper credit for articles found floating about, or sent to us, and have therefore transferred them boldly to these columns. All history is made up from the statements and records of others. There can be no originality in the facts of history. This work contains a complete political history of the county, embraced under the following twenty general divisions, which, are subdivided, as shown in the table of contents: — 1. First Discoveries by Land and Sea about Humboldt Bay. 2. Settlements made by the Gold Hunters. 3. Organization of the County Government. 4. Klamath County Formed and Disorganized. 5. Geographical Features of Country and its Soil. 6. Humboldt Bay and Harbor Described. 7. Resources and Industries of the County. S. Redwood Forests and Lumber Business. 9. Manufacturing Interests of the County. 10. Ropid Increase in Population and Wealth. 11. Klamath, Gold Bluff and Trinity Mines. 12. Indian Difficulties, Wars, Treaties, and Reservations. 13. Descriptions of Towns and Villages. 14. Lives of Pioneer Settlers of this Region. 15. History of the Churches of the County. 16. List of Secret, Benevolent and other Organizations. 17. Sketches of Prominent Citizens of the County. (18. Public and Private Schools and their Progress. 19. The Climate and its many Advantages to Residents. 20. Botany, Zoology and Miscellaneous Matter. The alphabetical index will be found an invaluable guide, and refers to more than 400 subdivisions of the above subjects. The first part of the work embraces a brief history of California from the discovery of the Pacific Ocean to this date. It has been the policy of men in all ages to preserve by tradition, inscription, monument or manuscript, the memory of individuals and events associated with the settlement of a State or country. We have therefore given considerable space to the biographical department, which contains very much of interest. A few j'ears from now it will be oftenest perused, for people delight to read of the pioneers of a country and of their trials. Each sketch contains some incidents of pioneer life, or some facts relative to the county, its soil, mode of cultivation, variety of crops, manner of harvesting, average production of different localities, and similar information not easily separated from the personal narrative, but can be found by the subheadings. Owing to the transitory state of society during the early days of California, it is impossible at this comparatively remote period, to fix the exact dates of many occurrences, or to get at the full truth of the matter. The reader will perhaps notice discrepancies in dates and incidents, and as it was impossible to adjust the differences, we have given the statements of each writer without change. Gathering news of early events is very unsatisfactory. An " old pioneer " will enlarge by the hour upon early days, but pin him down to facts and figures, and endeavor to get a tangible historical account of any particular event of " those glorious days," and it seems to be too great an effort. Now a pioneer never would be guilty of admitting that he had forgotten anything of early times, yet get a half-dozen together to fix the date of any event, and no two of them will agree. Each will have a different date and version of the affair, and positively affirm it, as he " was there at the time." Special care has been taken, however, to avoid discrepancies, and we flatter ourselves that, in the main, the facts set forth will prove to be perfectly reliable. -We expect criticism. All that the publishers ask is that it be done in charity, after considering all the obstacles and hindrances involved in a work of this magnitude. Few persons without actual experience can comprehend the care and pains necessary to complete a book of this description. Many old settlers, whose years of honorable toil have transformed the wild lands into harvest-laden fields, have placed us under obligations for historical and biographical incidents connected with the early history of the county. A few years more, and all pioneers will have passed " over the river." Many now lie among the golden sands that allured them hither. Let no unmerited blot be cast upon the grand army of adventurers who covered these western shores, and brought with them the foundation of society, schools, and homes. Our thanks are due to the citizens of the county for the cordial good feeling manifested toward our enterpi-ise, having received from them that aid and support which can only be expected among prosperous and intelligent people. The Publishers.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS. LIST OF LITHOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS, MAPS. CHARTS AND DIAGRAMS. LITHOGRAPHIC VIEWS. Ay«B Willi ,Bl lard mi..-.- ... 84 M ii- A a W '•■ Drug Store. .1-4 Anderson John, Residence w* ^xi Fred , Re id » Anthony J. 0, Farm View 186 Buhm ii- n • Farm View Barm Robert, Resideuce Bail Thomas. R< iid« -• Blookburgor Benjamin, Store. ... ■■ |.„ ,„,!,,, Qeo. L.,Snburban Residence Berding A • Residence Boynton F. Z . talond Home Bulloob N., Residence Brizard A , Storeat Areata Brown 8alm Sheep Ranch Bay Mill, Dolbear & Carson Bofmore Hall Blookaburg Hotel Burns Blook ■ Blue Luke Hotel Brook Farm, Mrs. G. Francis Blookaburg Village Ohartin Cloment, Blue Luke Hotel . 84 Ohilds Willia... .••; .28 Chapman John.. . • Frontispiece and 180 Oaso ii. S., Farm and Residence 1J6 Ohurles Geo. VV., Residence 88 Oarson William, Mill • 100 Olork Jonathan Hon., Residence SB Campton William. Residence 128 Benj., Farm Residence. . . .192 Cumraings E. C., Storeaud Residence 132 Cook C . s.. Home Residence 148 Dolliaon J. K., Residence JS8 DeHavon J. J., Residonce 124 Devlin Thomas, Residence 80 Doo Chas. A., Farm Resilience 132 Dent E. W.. Residence 40 Dungan G. A.. Farm J60 Dal Norte Record Ib0 Exoehiior Mill, J. Rubs & Co 44 Eureka Market 45 Eureka Mill 6S Entrance to Harbor 108 Enterprise Office, Ferndale 124 Excelsior D.iiry Ranch, H. D. .Smith 136 Ferndale Hotel 172 l-Vi n i lottage, Joseph Rubs 44 Francis Mm. G., Residence 100 i Mrs. L. A., Residence 148 Gil mi ire Alexander 188 Gray I leo. II., Farm and Residence. ..110 Gill A M., store ami Warehouse. ..128 Gillignu L., Star Hotel 80 Gold Bluff Mines Frontispiece Hcthcrington J., City Residence 148 Hardware Store of Robert Burns GO Haynes J. P., Residence 5fi Hicks L. S., Pleasant View 172 Wand Mill, D. R. I ones & Co C8 Ivy Ranch of P. W. Robarts 40 Island Home of F. Z. Boynton 32 Johnson Richard, Dairy Ranch 152 Jones D. R. k Go's Mill 68 Jones D. R., Residence 68 King R.F., Town Residence 20 Kenyou J. G., Store 172 Long Chas. W., Residence 188 Logging Train of D. R. Jones & Co . . OS Laurel Grove Dairy Ranch 152 Mad River Saw-mill of Isaac Minor. . 140 Mathews James E., Resilience 108 Monroe Mrs. A., Residence 104 Marsh H. W., Hotel— Areata 124 Minor Isaac, Resideuce and Ranch. . . 140 Mad River Bridge 24 Norton A., Farm and Residence 72 Post-office at Eureka 16 Painter L., Riodel HouBe 64 Pierce Walter ISO Putnam A., Residence 132 Robinson W. S., Bridgeville Ranch. .192 | Rosa Joseph, Excslsior Mill 44 Robarts Robt. W., Home of 32 Roberts D. R., Ferndale Hotel 172 Robarts P. W., Ivy Ranch 40 Roberta C. P., Home of 50 Rohner Henry, Residence 192 Robertson Mrs. H 156 Sonthmayd J. L IJ8 Strong Samuel, Hotel 80 Sweasy Richard. Residence 188 Stewart Thos., Ranch Home 136 State Capitol 217 Shaw Isabella Mrs., Residence 48 Standard Office, Enreka 84 Sawyer Jackson, Farm Residence 192 Star Hotel Springville 80 Smith H. D , Excelsior Diary 130 Ticknor H. H. Hotel 30 Tug-Boat Mary Ann 108 Times Office 28 Trinidad Village 28 Vance John., Saw-mill 24 Vance Edwin P., Salmon Creek Farm. 120 Vance Hotel 24 Whitmore Joel S., Ranch 120 Walker Jessie., Dairy Ranch , . 160 Watson John A., Residence 56 Winton S. F., Farm 180 Westbrook H., Dairy Farm 207 Youmans S. T., Farm View 196 Zanone Domingo Stock Ranch 96 PORTRAITS OF CITIZENS. Albee Joseph P 104 Brown T.M 184 Bullock N 176 BuhneH. H 164 Clark Jonathan 165 Gasterlin J. B 184 Duff F. S 165 Huestis A. J 13 HuestisW. F 13 Hansen John 92 Hauna James 13 Howard E. H 13 Haynes J. P 184 Jones D. R 176 Kenyou J.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY HISTORY. . 1 38 ...170 . . .201 ...141 . . .14;_> ...145 ...101 ...160 ...163 . . .207 l , , California Lecture. . . .... . . .69 , Entrj in H ' >ol 1 1 Land Office 127 Pii II tilroada in 8fcate i ,, ,| child Born in Arizona — pi, | Child born in Perndale ... i > , i ■ m mill '", the Bay ■ i im i I lonstrncteu in il Flouring Mill Pirat 'i rn fceea ol Eureka Pii i 'I mi I ■• ■■< Areata lM | ujffch at Port Humboldt.. i ii I cl 1 1 in County Pii i l i B Lines...... -}First Newspapers in County m in- i Post-Offlcea gg pii .i Perries C nBtructed -"•' FiwtSermiin Preuched '- ■ ;* i ii I Church Erected «« Firsl Hotel on the B,.y. ';'. Pint Alcalde of Humboldt 1MJ FiwtSohool Di strict. ... f>i Pirat Blacksmith of Humboldt l«o First Hotel at Table Bluff 82 •Ferries of the County. ... ■ •••••••• •{■£ Financial Condition of Humboldt... 14b Perndale Vilb.ge ,Va"oi7 Perndale Enterprise 168, 217 Perndale Hotel "» Penulale Waterworks 201 Port Humboldt Reminiscences IW Financial Situation of Klamath .llo Poo i on the Coast *m Fureiguera Arrive on toast ai GoldBlnfft 10,105, 150 Griat Mils 34 Golden Era ■ ••• »' Grizzly Bears of HumbddtCo JGeography of Humboldt Co 123 i;.,s SpringB iu Humboldt Co 120 Gi.rberville IgJ Governora of California ''Grand Rush for the Gold Mines GO How to Reach Humboldt County. 14, 102 Humboldt Bay Described.. ..S3, 96, 128 aumboldt Harbor 1'. 131 Humboldt Light House. ........... ..17 Humboldt County Organized. .. .108, 109 Bumboldt County Seat Contest 109 Happy Camp J21 Humboldt County Public Lands 127 Humboldt Harbor Improvements 130 Humboldt Port Of Entry 131 Houpa Reservation Humboldt Point Hunters and Trappers of 1832 , Hudson Bay Company Hydeaville Village I [ookton. INDEX TO THE HISTORICAL MATTER-CONTINUED. Organization of Humboldt Co. 107, 109 Orleans Bar 114> j?j Ossogan Mine - [^ Odd Fellows' Lodges -'" Organization of the State »« Ownership of Laud -. '° Overland Route to Humboldt -OOfficers of Humboldt County 22U Pioneers of Humboldt County 165 Pioneers of Table Bluff Impost-office Eureka ■ • • - ■ - - - ■ • ■ - J« Pioneers of California, 46, 4S ,41 >, 52 ,62 Population of the State & Co., SO, 148, 102 Public Lands of Humboldt 127 Pleasure Resorts of Humboldt '-& Productions of the County - • • ■{ 33 Progress of the County 137, 147 Pilot Rock ,*r, iX Petrolia ...- .- -^1, 60 Pleasure resorts of S. Strong &/ Principal Streams of the County 124 Pacific Ocean First Seen -J Plow of Early Settlers 31 Pioneer Lumberman • |*U Present Condition of Humbo.dt 14b fferaM, Rohnerville 158- 2" Humboldt County Bank ™l Increase of Productions in 20 Years .147 Indians... 22. 23, 28, 45,84. 90, 93, o2 Indian Reservations l™ •' Treaties l™ " Treachery - ; J " Volunteers f*« » Wars |5» " War Claims J?i IdeJudge - fn Independence Declared *" Industries of Early Times ;» Immense Bands of Cattle j° Iron Ore Discovered loJ Jones D. R. & Co, Lumber Business. .144 Klamath County Organized . . .107, 114 «i " Disorganized. . JUS, in .. River 105,124 " City Located 103,122 " County Bonds 117, 118 " Indian Reservation 155 " County Debts Adjusted 118 " Indians 1°" List of County Officers 220 Little River •••■;■ ; J" Li«ht Houses 17,2, .0 Life Stations • 20, 130 Land Office of Humboldt County. . ..12b Largest Dairies ■ • .J3o I .umber Business ' ' \Vc Leather and Tanners 14b MadRiver 13,125 Mendocino Cape J 0 Mines of Trinity and Klamath 104, " 141, 149, 157 Mines* of Del Norte County 1 19, 121 Mattole River 126 Minor's Saw-Mill 127 Manufacturing Business of County . . 145 Miniug in Humboldt County 149 Mines of T. M. Brown 149 Miners' Laws 66 Monterey Bay 23 Missions Established 25 Mining on the Beach 150 Mines of John Chapman 150 Marsh House, Areata 161 Masonic Lodges 210 Humboldt Timet 215 Naming Humboldt Bay 170, 175 Newspapers of the County 215 Natural Wonders 79, 126 New Constitution Formed 72 Newspapers of Del Norte 218 Redwood Forests 87, 79, 140 Resources of Del Norte County 115 Redwood Creek {25 Rio Del Scenery \'f° Resources of Humboldt County 16£ Railroads" " " ••138'J^ Rohnerville • -]°° Herald 158,217 Rates of Taxation 147 Russians Near Fort Ross 35 Review of the Missions 29 Roberts Hall lo8 Rainfall Tables - 208 Rio Del House 1 J4 Schools of Humboldt County 207 Schools of Del Norte 218 Smith River 20 Scen-ry of Humboldt County 128 Shipwrecks of Humboldt County 130 Sheep Ranches of Humb ddt County . 134 Stock-raising of Humboldt County.. 135 Saw-Mills of Humboldt County 141 of J. Vance 142 " of Isaac Minor 143 " J. Rasa & Co 144 D. R. Jones & Co 144 " of Wm. Carson 143 Schooner Joseph Runs 145 Salmon Fisheries ". 146 ShelterCove 159 Settlers Ordered to Leave California. 40 Spanish Ox-Cart *. 33 Strange Meeting 37 San Francisco and Bay 25 Sonoma Mission 29 Sale of the Missions 31 San Joaquin Valley. 37, 74 Specimen Proclamation 42 San Joaquin Ranch 43 Sutter's Fort Located 4b Strange Dream b'_ Sunday in San Francisco b7 State House, San Jose . 71 Secret and Benevolent Societies 210 Starvation Times in Mines 177 Shipwreck of H. H. Buhne 176 Society, Past and Present 210 Stantliird 21J Trinidad Village 101, 156 Trinidad Bay and Harbor, 18, 82, 95, 96,103, 156 Tides of the Coast. 20 Temperance Organizations 212 Trinity River 82, 96, 105, 125 Trinity Bay 95 Trinidad Mill Co 139 Trinity County Organized 107 Table Bluff 124, 159 Telephone, Daily and Weekly 217 Table of California Missions 25 " Population of Missions 26 " Mission Indians 28 " Missions in 1834 and 1S42. . . 30 " Disposition of Missions 32 Agricultural Products 75 " Altitude of Mountains 74 " Barometer 208 " Rainfall 208 " County Officers 220 Voluuteers 219 Threshing Scene of Early Times 32 Tragic Fate of Donner Party 62 Treaty of Peace Signed 59 Valuation from 1854 to 1882 147 Vance's Railroad 138 " Hotel 162 Van Duzen River 91 Vanie's Picnic Grounds 128 Vessels Entering Humboldt Bay 131 View of Klamath County Jail 216 Villages of Humboldt 156 Votes on County Seat 110 " Cast at Election SO " '' First County Election 112 " Annexation of Klamath lib Voyage up the Coast 13, 15 Volunteers, List of 219 Wood's Narrative of Discovery 81 Warreuville Started 101 Wool Productions 135 Wonders of California 79 Wild Flowers 164 BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OF PROMINENT CITIZENS. Ayers. William 217 Anderson, John I™ Axe Fred 203 AlboeJ P 203 Anthony, J. G 200 Alfor.l.F. A 217 Buhnp, H. H 173 Bair, Thomas 1S7 Benedict, Ceo. L 191 Boyuton, F. Z 136 Bullock, Nr HO Burnian John 206 Brown. Salmon 188 Blackburn, Wm 51 Bailing A 158,159, 184 Blookburger, Benj 159, 1S5 Bri2ard, A 161, 177 Burns. Robert 101, 190 Burtschell, Frank 19!) Broun, T. M 178, 149 Campton, William 197 " Benjamin 197 Casterlin, J. B 183 Cummings, E. C : . .202, 207 Cook, Charles S 195 Clark, Jonathan 107, 1G3, 150 Coyle,J. A 158 Chartin, Clemeut 128, 18S Chapman. John 150 Case,H. S 190 Carson, William 143 Cullberg, Isaac 130 Devlin, Thomas 190, 146 Doe. Charles A 189 Dent, E. W 18U Dungan, G. A 179 De Haven, J. J... 177 Dollison, J. K 206 Doble, Abner. ISO FrauciB, Francis 201 Freese, Mrs L. A 202 Gray, Geo. H 193 Gilmore, Alex 186 Gill, A. M 158,190 Glasscock, A. A 158 Gilligan, L 159 Gibson, D. C. & Co 158 Haynes, Hon. J. P .183 Hicks, L.S 18S Hooper Bros ■ 157 Huestis, A. J 167 Huestis, W. F 181 Hetheiington, J 201 Howard, E. H 109 Hanua, James 173 Johnston, Richard 193 Jones, D. R. & Co -....144 Kinsey, L. T 183 Kinsman, Seth 163, 197 Kenyon, J. G 126, 158, 196 Long, Chas. W 178 Marsh, Dr. W. H 161 McCollum, W.J 158, 188 Minor, Isaac 143, 1 7 1 Meek, Stephen H 39, 129 Marsh, Dr. John 43 Murphy, Hon. J. E 198 Mason, Edgar 1 99 Monroe, A 205 Mathews, Jas. E 205 Norton, A 128 Putnam, A 158, 192 Painter, L 128,194 Russ, Hon. Joseph, 168, 134-5, 144-5, 158 Robinson, W. S 179 Robarts, Robt. W 191 Robarts-, P. W 192 Roberts, D. R 15S, 1SS Roberts, C. F 127, ISO Rohner, Henry 15S, 178 Robertson, Mrs. A 193 Ricks, Hon. C. S 172 Roberts O. P Robertson, Alexander 193 Sweasey, W. J _...162 Strong, Samuel 158, 187 Stewart, Thos 189 Shaw, Mrs. Isabella 191 Sawyer, Jackson 194 Shaw, G. H 192 Slitter, J. A 47 Saville, Win 206 Smith, H. D 202 Smiley, J. C 204 Shaw, S. Lewis 191 Simon, H. F 200 Thomson, J. S ." .'.183 Tichnor, H. H .184, 159 Vance, John 128, 138, 142, 145, 171 Vance, Edwin P 1S7 Van Dyke, Walter 182 Wyman, Hon. J. E <176 Whitmore, Joel S 180 Woodbury, W. H 206 Watson, John A 182 Wiley, Hon. Austin 180 Whipple, S. G 206 Westbrook, H 199 Wiuton, S. F 1" Wasgatt, C 184 You'mans, S. T 200 Zauone, Domingo 185

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%. % I', II 16 " I :t 7 ' ■111 Lnf,lnl ~ ^ J oeseF £*^ * •*•$■ *£* *■ 'na^y EXPLANATION of CHART. The scale of this Map, has been much shortened from North to South, in order to bring the most important coast openings within a short space, The Lines that cross Horizontally show the points where Yearly and Monthly temperature and rain fall have been ascertained, as explained in table on article on wind Currents. 5 =

HISTORY HUMBOLDT COUNTY, CALIFORNIA, FROM THE EARLY DAYS DOWN TO THE PRESENT TIME. (JMBOLDT is a county of small farms and profitable homesteads, occupied by contented and prosperous owners. No soil surpasses the valley lands in productiveness. It exhibits a degree of healthful growth in the various industries and in population that will compare favorably with any rural county in the State. The climate is equable and genial. Droughts and failure of crops are unknown. It is a county of grand scenery; of mountain and valley: hill and plain; tide marsh and sand dune; open prairie and impenetrable thicket and of giant redwoods beautiful in their native grandeur. It is one of the best watered counties in the State. Along the whole western slope for over one hundred miles, and extending back from ten to thirty miles, lies the great redwood district of the county. This whole vast area is covered by one dense and almost impenetrable forest of giant trees from two to four hundred feet high, and from ten to sixty feet in circumference. East of this timbered section is a tract of open country of great value as a pastoral district. At every available point for shipment stands a saw-mill turning trees into lumber, furnishing employment for labor and investment for capital. Every little river has its fisheries and canneries, and all the vallev- and bottom-lands are covered with productive farms. The county offers peculiar inducements to tourists and pleasure seekers. This section is one of the finest hunting and fishing countries to be found. In all parts of the county, save the immediate settlements in the valleys, game of all kinds abounds. Some of the scenery in this county is unrivaled for beauty and grandeur. Especially is this true of the coast country. HOW TO IIBACH THE COUNTY. It has no railroad facilities connecting it with the balance of the State. There are but two routes by which we can reach this important portion of our State. One is overland by stage, which in summer is a romantic and pleasant ride, but equally tedious and very uncertain in winter. The route chiefly traveled is by ocean steamer, and is preferred on account of the quicker time made. Steamers leave San Francisco twice a week, and are possessed of good sea-going qualities and comfortable passenger accommodations. The voyage, however, on account of the liability of seasickness, is not an enjoyable one, but the steamer is a wonderful improvement on the sail vessels of a few years ago. A very large portion of the coast carrying trade, formerly done by sailing craft, is now carried on by steamers. They carry both freight and passengers, and make frequent and regular trips. No railroads as yet interfere with the trade of that region. A VOYAGE UP THE COAST. Let us take a trip up the coast and in imagination see and examine all the capes, harbors and rivers that form the coastline along this route. We shall then form some idea of the extent of the sea-coast, and of the facilities for business at the various openings along the shore. The accompanying chart of the route and of the coast-line will assist us in our observations. The shores of the west coast, against which the waves of the great Pacific Ocean wage continual warfare, though bluff and bold and rocky for the most part, have few indentations in

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H msTORY OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY. CALIFORNIA^ rtid the 81 I finer™, find refuge Nature rwise so lavishes in ite gifts in this part of the world has denied us good harbors, and Congress, wh.eh .s expected te tl real american people to remedy the defle.ences o „; ■e.haa failed to.provide for us artificial ones. This coast is, in this reaped, and there is probably no part of the world where so Inn, , shore line presents so few available harbors. EXPERIENCES OF THE TRIP. The dangers to navigation arc many, especially 0,1 what is 1M,,lh designated the North Coast, where there is not really , Single good harbor affording protection against the storm w-mda uf the winter months until the Strait of Fuca is reached, 700 miles from San Francisco. There are a number of open roadsteads, giving partial shelter from the summer northWest winds, and several bar harbors, all of which are dangerous of access and utterly impracticable in heavy or even moderately bad weather. The outlaying dangers are all marked on the charts of the United States Coast Survey. To the ordinary passenger, seldom on the seas, this trip is a serious undertaking and is entered upon with dread of the seasickness. To those who dwell in inland quietude, with habitations remote from the sea and out of the sound of the roar of the ocean, it may seem of slight importance; but to the sailor who must buffet about amid the angry waters, with no snug shelter into which he may guide his storm-tossed vessel; to the merchant whose effects are at the mercy of the winds and waves, a good harbor is of the utmost importance as will be Been as we proceed up the coast. The first little place outside the Golden Gate, north of San Francisco, is Bolinas Bay, a small place very little used and that only by the small schooners. drake's bay. TOMALES BAY AND CUFFEY's COVE. Tomales Bay is a bar harbor, dangerous of access, as when vessels run under the high land at the entrance, and lose he wind, they are in danger of drifting into the breakers, as has several times happened. Cuffey's Cove, twelve miles north of Point Arena, is a good northwest harbor, has three chutes and does considerable trade. This is a great country for potatoes, large quantities beingshipped from here. In the town there are a few stores a church, hotels, bar-rooms, etc. A steam railroad brings the lumber from the saw-mills down to the landing. Great quantities of railroad ties, bark, wood, posts, etc., are shipped from this point. MENDOCINO BAY. Mendocino Bay is a somewhat contracted place and unpleasant from the constant heavy swell. The sea breaks in the center and southern parts of the bay, the anchorage being in the north bight close behind the point. At this place Big River enters the ocean. Some coasting schooners have been built on the river and brought over the bar at high water. Vessels load here from a chute, and sometimes in the winter from lighters. The place is only available for a few vessels at a time, and in rough weather the company do not want more than one or two there at a time. Vessels arriving are guided by signals from the shore as to the state of the harbor. If it is rough and there is room for no more vessels the flag at half mast indicates that the last comer must stay outside and wait his turn. If it is at the mast head he may come in. The town of Mendocino City, situated at this point, is quite a good-sized village. The moorings are good and heavy. The place is owned by the Mendocino Lumber Company, and if there were any competition many vessels would go. This place has the largest lumber mill on the coast this side of Humboldt. Sir Francis Drake's Bay, behind the prominent headland of Point Reyes, affords a very fine protection from the west and northwest winds, but it is exposed to southerly storms. By anchoring in four or five fathoms, close under the north side of bhc point, a few small vessels lie out a winter gale, but the sea breaks a long way out at such time. Vessels from the northward all make Point Reyes when coming here. The big bight between this point and Point Lobos, with the San Francisco bar running across it, is a difficult place for a sailing vessel to get out of in a southerly gale. When the coasters come in near enough and find the bar bad they have to claw windward to clear Point Reyes if they want sea room, and have heavy hard seas and winds to contend with. If there was a safe harbor at Drake's Bay the}' could always make that with ease and lie there until the weather moderated. There is no trade from this bay, although the land in the vicinity is occupied by some of the finest dairies in the State. CASPAR CREEK. Caspar Creek, a few miles on up the coast, has quite a little village of some three hundred inhabitants on the hill near its mouth. There is very little water in this creek at any time, but the mouth only closes up once in three or four years. The creek is about six miles long and empties into the ocean five miles north of Mendocino City. The first mill was erected here in 1862. The harbor is considered as good as any of its class, which is evident from the fact of their shipping lumber from there every month in the year. This is the only place between Mendocino and Eureka where they land freight safely in winter. The moorings are examined and adjusted every fall with fresh buoys, an.d are very good ones. The harbor averages seven fathoms in depth, and there are no blind rocks except those which are visible at low water. The vessels generally beat out, except in calm weather; but there are three bouys to haul out by.

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST. I .in,.,, r COVJ .1' POl I DELGADA. \\> now reach the firstj hipping places in Bu i ounty I- ,,„,, Sheltei Cove the chief exporte are wool, produced in hern Humboldl and northern Mendocino. The harboi i formed 03 a reef of rocks jutting out from the coa ' quite a di tance, On the 0Ufch ,ideof 'I" there isdeep water and plentj ol sea room making it « ,,llll(| harboi for vessels, ami a place 0£ refuge during the prevalence of northerly gales, but when outherly winds prevail il isdangerousfor any craft lying at anchor. The village of Sheltei- < 'ove is sit. dated on a bluff overlooking the ocean and consists of only two or three houses, blacksmith store, etc. It is thirty miles south of Cape Mendocino. POINT QOKDA USD MATTOLE RIVER, After passing Point Gorda the mouth of Mattole River is reached. There is no harbor here. A few miles up the stream is the pretty little village of Petrolia which derived its name from the oil, or petroleum which was found in the locality. Situated within a short distance of the ocean it is fanned by its cool sea-breezes. Its situation commands some of the finest scenery on the north coast. It is in the midst of a great dairy region, to be noticed hereafter. The next point of interest on our trip is Cape Mendocino. DENSE FOGS ON THE COAST. The coast is often enveloped in a dense fog so that many of the points here described cannot be seen even if our vessel should keep near enough to the coast to bring them ill range of our vision. The coast fogs which prevail in summer are great drawbacks to navigation. During the height of the northwest winds the fog comes in, but the breeze by no means dispels it. This fog prevails more frequently at some points than others, but pretty much the whole coast is enveloped in it. It is more dense in summer than winter. The fogs are low clouds whose upper surface averages 1,500 above the sea and usually rising to 1,700 or 1,800 feet, with the mountains of the© rising lik'- islands above the level of the fog. It is a noticeable fact thai ire seldom lost from gales and Bevere storms but mainly from running ashore in fogs. One feature, however, of winter gales ig that after blowing hard from southeast it will work round to southwest with a large broken swell from the latter direction, and then finish up by heavy pufft from northwest, kicking up an ugly cross sea, very uncomfortable to small vessels and dangerous to deck loads VOYAGE NOT DANGEROUS. The voyage, however, is a safe one as the route is well known and well defined in the charts, and the only difficulty will be from fogs and at the entrance of the harbors where sifting sands form bars. Some of the coasters or small sailing craft think they know more about the coast than any book can tell them. Many of these do not even have a coast-line chart, much less detailed charts, and much of the navigation is accomplished by rule of thumb: " Stand offshore on a nor' west wind for so long, then come by the wind on the other tack and stand up the coast for so long, and strike your port." That kind of navigation is all very well sometimes, but the schooner may strike something else before the port, i as it occasionally happens. A very frequent cause of wrecks in the fall of the year and winter, is the h e a v y sea which sometimes roll> into the smaller harbors, at a time when there is little or no wind, the result of gales off shore. At such times the schooners cannot get out and have to trust to the strength of lines and moorings. If they part the vessels pile up in the rocks. As this happens without much warning, if the moorings are not good the heavy sea coming against the vessel sometimes causes it to break loose, and a wreck is inevitable.

16 HISTORY OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY, CALIFORNIA. CAPE MENDOCINO. Tbe bold mountainous headland of Cape Mendocino forms the western limit of the northwest trend of the California coast from Point Reyes, the general trend from Cape Mendocino to the Straits of Fuca being northwest. At this cape the range of coast hills from the south seems to meet a range from the east formed by ridges of 1,400 feet elevation within a mile of the sea, with peaks from 2,500 to 3,000 feet high, within two miles of the above. The whole face of the country is covered with timber. A distinguishing feature of this cape is the large rock called the Sugar Loaf or Haystack, which is just off the point, and is about 300 feet high. LIGHT-HOUSE OF CAPE MENDOCINO. There is a light-house on the cape. It is flashing white of the first order, illuminating the whole horizon. The light appears for fifteen seconds and is eclipsed fifteen seconds. It is placed on a wrought iron sixteen-sided tower. About three miles broad off this cape is Blunt's Reef, a dangerous ledge of rocks, bare at all times. In the channel between this reef and the shore are several submerged rocks, some of which show breakers at low water and some not. Although Davidson's Coast Pilot mentions this channel as a dangerous locality that should be avoided, it is pretty generally used by coasting steamers and schooner's. The old steamer Northerner was lost by striking one of these rocks, being beached after striking, at Cape Fortunas, where she went to pieces. In fact there are scattered sunken rocks extending nearly a mile off the coast from Shelter Cove to Cape Mendocino. This cape is to the north coast what Point Conception is to the south, as here vessels coming to the southward meet heav- , ier winds and rougher weather. The fact has been established by observation of the U. S. Coast Survey that in the vicinity of this cape the sea has been known to break in nine and a half fathoms of water; not snow " white water " merely, but bona fide breakers. Five or six miles north of this is False Mendocino or Cape Fortunas, which presents the same peculiarities as Cape Mendocino, even to the rocky islets off the cape. Bear River, one of the largest streams of this vicinity, enters the ocean near the cape. It has no harbor. A DREADED POINT. 1543 — This cape, as heretofore stated, was first discovered by Juan R. Cabrillo, February 2(i, 1543, and called Cabo de Fortunas or Cape of Perils. This cape was formerly much dreaded by the Spanish navigators, on account of the storms usually prevailing in its vicinity; but, those fears having passed away, the cape has lost much of the respect with which it was early regarded by mariners. CAPE VISITED BY VISCAINO. 1(304_The Fragata, or small vessel belonging to Viscaino's ship, visited this cape in 1604, under command of Aguilar. The historian sayS: — " The Fragata parted from the Capitana [Viscaino's ship,] and, supposing that she had gone onward, sailed in pursuit of her. Being in the latitude of 41°, the wind began to blow from the southwest; and the Fragata, being unable to withstand the waves on her beam, ran before the wind until she found shelter under the land, and anchored near Cape Mendocino, behind a great rock, where she remained until the gale had passed over." The historian says: "When the wind became less violent, they continued their voyage close along the shore; and on the 19th of January, the pilot Antonio Flores, found that they were in the latitude of 43°, where the land formed a cape or point, which was named Cape Blanco. From that point the coast begins to turn to the northwest; and near it was discovered a rapid and abundant river, with ash-trees, willows, brambles> and other trees of Castile, on its banks, which they endeavored to enter, but could not, from the force of the current." (??) The coasts north of Mendocino, were not visited by the people of any civilized nation between the period of Cook's voyage, (1778) and 1787; and the best charts of them were those of the Spaniards, founded on the observations of Hecta and Bodega. EEL RIVER ENTRANCE. Eel River is the first indentation in the coast north of the cape where schooners or steamers may enter, and although a schooner went in there as early as 1850, while looking for Humboldt Bay, it is only within the past few years that much trade has developed there. The Indian name of this river was Weeott. The steamer Thomas Whitelaw visits the river at regular intervals. There are about eleven feet of water on the bar, but the breakers are short and sharp. A vessel can go in and out here at almost any time that towage is possible on the Humboldt Bar. The steamer Continental made a number of trips into this river, but was finally lost on the bar at the mouth. The Continental scraped on the bar a number of times on her previous passages, but, the last time when she struck, her smokestack buckled forward a.nd broke off the steam whistle pipe where it connected with the steam drum, and as the steam filled the engine room, and as pressure ran down, they lost control of the steamer, and she went ashore. There are a number of sloughs and branches to the river, which drain a fertile section of country, mainly under cultiva . tion. There are salmon canneries on the river. This important stream and its industries will receive more attention hereafter.

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RESIDENCE OF FRED AXE, POST MASTER,EUREKA.CAL.

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST. 17 in HBOLDl BAY. This hai bor lies about twenty-one miles above < lape Mendocino,andisaninii anl hipping point for lumber, grain, and pot, Round about this ba3 tberei considerable grazing and f; Ing land. The product* of this, and o! the timber region, give the towm on the bay a large trade with San Fran,., ,.,, of the forty nine rewjels built on the coast in 1877 , ..,.„,- bhenl were built at Humboldt, all wh >rs. The bav extend8 about nine miles north of, and torn- miles south of tll('. entrance, and varies from three miles to half a mile in width. A large extent of this area, however, is mud Hats, bare at low water. •n„. towns of Eureka, Areata and Bookton are all on the bay Eureka is the principal port, and is about four railesfrom the heads. Areata is at the north end of the bay. THE LABGEST BAY. This is the largest bay north of San Francisco. The bar at the mouth is a very bad one, and like others undergoes irregular changes, dependent on the prevalence, direction, and strength of the wind. Vessels are often bar bound here for aome time, and are generally towed out by the tugs when they go to sea, as the prevailing summer wind blows right in. The channel has shifted so often, that Davidson's Coast Pilot says: -The best advice we can offer in regard to entering the harbor, is to wait for the tug." \ SMOOTH HARBOR. The bay affords fine shelter for vessels from all winds, when onCe inside, but the breakers are heavy over the shifting sands of the bar oven in moderate weather, ami vessels-have been known to wail for a month before they could eetout. Noone j Should attempt to enter without a pilot. The shores on both sides of the entrance are low and sandy. CONTEMPLATED [MPROA BMENTS. T|,e engineers, after examining this harbor, came to the conclusion that the only way to improve this entrance would be by the construction of two parallel jetties of very heavy stone, about live hundred yards apart, from the north ami south spits at the entrance, [f such jetties were built, the very large area of bhe mll,,. liav WOUld probably afford sufficient tidal prism to keep open a deep channel over the bar. But such construction would be attended with great difficulties and enormous expenseI, was a question even with the membei-sof the board, whether such construction would be physically possible, and one, too, on which they could not express an opinion without searching examination of all the contingencies upon which the stability or instability of such work would hinge. They did not, there,-,„,, make any estimate of cost, as if not possible of execution. It is highly improbable that either breakwater or jetties will be attempted. l in; i [GHT-HOUSf Tie light-house at Humboldt is .... the north -Me of the entrance, about three-quarters of a mile from the inlel about midway between the sea and bay shores] it is a Bxed white light of th(- fourth order, on a conical brick tower Ther( | aisoa .1-., .beat- twelve-inch .team fog whistle here, ng alternate blasts of four and eight seconds at interval. of twenty-eight seconds THE BAY UNKNOWN I NTIL 1849. It is a little singular that so large a bay as this should have escaped the closest observations of the early explorers, ami have remained unknown until a modern date, but such was the case as we shall hereafter relate. 1792— Vancouver wrote in 1792, as follows:— "I was thoroughly convinced, as were also most persons of observation on board, that we could not possibly have passed any safe navigable opening, harbor, or place of security for shipping, on this coast, from Cape Mendocino to the promontory of"ciasset, [Cape Flattery, at the entrance of the Strait of Fuca.] "So minutely has this extensive coast been inspected, that the surf has been constantly seen to break on its shores from the masthead; and it was but in a few small intervals only where our distance precluded its being visible from the deck. Whenever the weather prevented our making free with the shore, or on our hauling off for the night, the return of fine weather and of daylight uniformily brought us, if not to the identical spot we had departed from, at least within a few miles of it, a, el never beyond the northern limits of the coast which we had previously seen. "An examination so directed, and circumstances happily concurring to permit its being so executed, afforded the most complete opportunity of determining its various turnings and windings, as also the position of all its conspicuous points. ■ ascer tained by meridional altitudes for the latitude, and observations for the chronometer, which we had the good fortune to make constantly once, and in general twice, every day, the preceding one only excepted. It must be considered a very singular circumstance, that, in so great an extent of sea-coast, we should not have seen the appearance of any opening in its shore which presented any certain prospect of affording a shelter, the whole coast forming one compact and nearly straight barrier against the sea." Having performed acts of diplomacy and justice in the Sandwich Islands, Vancouver proceeded again to the American coasts; and, after examining the portion near Cape Mendocino, including the place called Port Trinidad by the Spaniards, in 1775, so as to connect his surveys north and south of that portion, he sailed to Nootka, where he arrived on the 20th of May 1793.

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18 HISTORY OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY, CALIFORNIA. MAD KlVKl: MSCOVEBED AND NAMED Mad River, just above Humboldt Bay, is an important ,,,,,„,, emptying into the ocean over the sand beach, and is fl„|,l,|, at the mouth. A small canal, however, has been cut from this stream to the northern part of Humboldt Bay, through which lumber is brought; and on this river are important industries, which we shall consider more fully in another place. The river was so named by a party who left the Trinity [liver mines and came over to the coast to discover the unknown but heard of Hay of Trinidad. This was in November, 1849. The discovery party consisted of Dr. Josiah Gregg, L. K. Wood, l> A. Buck, — Van Dusen, J. B.Truesdell.C.C. Southard, [saac Wilson, and T. Sebring. They followed down the Bald Hills, and then crossed over to the coast, at the mouth of Mad River, which was named by them because " Gregg flew into a passion when s.,me of the party wanted to go down the coast a few miles and examine a bay the Indians reported in that direction," which afterwards proved to be the now noted Humboldt Bay. A full account of this discovery as told by L. K. Wood will be given hereafter, as also its discovery by sea. TRINIDAD HEAD AND HARBOR. Trinidad Head and Bay is about seventeen miles above Humboldt, and forty miles north of Cape Mendocino. The bay, or roadstead, is somewhat contracted, but there is deep water, and the dangers are visible. It is a good summer anchorage, but dangerous in winter southeaster, a number of vessels having been lost there Trinidad "Head," a bold, picturesque headland, about 375 feet high, forms the western shore of the anchorland. This " head " is of metamorphic sandstone, covered about the height, of eighty or ninety feet above the water with a few feet of earth, which supports a thick growth of scrub bushes. Off the western face, for nearl}' half a mile out, lie several high rocky islets, with one, half a mile south, (Pilot Rock,) which has nine fathoms of water close to it. In the northern part of the bajr is a sand beach extending about half a mile; thence eastward the shore is rocky. The town of Trinidad fronts on the northwest part of the roadstead, where there is a wharf. The best anchorage for a vessel, besides the permanent moorings inside of Prisoner's Rock, is on a line of that rock and the " head," in seven fathoms, muddy bottom. The harbor can be approached safely from the southeast to the southwest, taking care in coming in from the westward, when within half a mile of the head, to keep Prisoner's Rock open to the southward of it, in order to avoid the broken ground to the southward of Blank Rock, which is outside the harbor. It is customary and safe in a northwest wind to hug the land closely. This harbor is in latitude 4i° .05', and about 240 nautical miles N.N.W. of San Francisco. It is about twenty miles south of the middle point of the coast between the entrance to San Francisco Bay and the mouth of the Columbia River; it is, therefore, geographically well situated for a harbor of refuge between these two harbors. HARBOR IMPROVEMENTS CONTEMPLATED. The engineers say that the rock here appears to be of better quality than is generally found along the coast. The fact that it is such a bold, projecting headland, with deep water around its southern face, shows that it has been able to resist the denudation of the sea, and would seem to bear out this conclusion. The breakwaters at this place, according to the plans submitted by the Board of Engineers, would run off from the point in a straight line in the direction of Pilot Rock for 2,000 feet, with a short piece at an angle towards the harbor 200 feet long. Between that and Pilot Rock would be an entrance to the harbor. From the other side of Pilot Rock the breakwater comes towards the shore 2,040 feet, leaving an entrance to the harbor between that end and the beach. If built as indicated, this would protect an available anchorage of nearly one square mile, with good holding ground. The cost of this breakwater is estimated at 87,694,500. The rocks outside are from eighty to one hundred feet out of water, and those on the northern part of the harbor are above water also. THE BOARD FAVORABLY IMPRESSED. The Board of Engineers was favorably impressed with the advantages of Trinidad for a harbor of refuge, which subject is considered in a separate article. On the head is a light of the fourth order, fixed white, varied by red flashes, at intervals of one minute. It was erected in 1871. If a harbor of refuge were built here, the light-house on Trinidad Head could be removed to Pilot Rock, and serve as a guide to enter. TRINIDAD DISCOVERED AND NAMED. 1775. — Viceroy Bucareli ordered an expedition to examine the coasts as far as the sixty-fifth degree of latitude. The Santiago was placed under the command of Captain Bruno Heceta, and a small schooner called the Sonora, of which Juan de Byala was in command, were fitted out. They sailed from San Bias March 15, 1775, in company with the schooner San Carlos, bound for Monterey. The exploring vessels, after parting with the San Carlos, at Monterey, doubled Cape Mendocino, and, on the 10th of June, 1775, anchored in a small roadstead beyond that promontory, in the latitude of 41° 10'. The officers, priests, and a portion of the men, immediately landed and took possession of the country, in the name of their sovereign, with religious solemnities, bestowing upon the harbor the name Port Trinidad ; and they then engaged in repairing their vessels and obtaining a supply of water, which afforded them employment for nine days.

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST. 19 Mini i:r. i r OB PIOl " !'p ' l: The itra « designated as Little Ri , jdently thi one th< , P ' ' duringthenine .1,. , remained in Port Trinidad the Spaniards held freq Qici " "rift the , pie of the country, who dwell principal^ on the banke of i mallstreara di 4 by the aavigatoi Rio vicinity. "The Indians .■„„ducted themselvei uniformly in the most peaceable manner, and appeared bo be, on the whole, an inoffensive and industi pacfti Thej were clothed, For the most part, in skins, and armed with bows and arrows, in the use of which they were S1IS eXpertj their arrows were, ... general, tipped with copper 0, iron, of which metals they had knives and other implements whence procured the Spaniards could nol learn. No ,,,„ o£ religious feelings, or ceremonies of any kind, could be disc red among them, unless their bowling over the bodies of the dead may be considered in that light, ' CROSS BRE< TED AT PORT TRINIDAD. ,77.-, Having - pleted Iheir arrangements, Heceta ami Bodega sailed from Port Trinidad on the L9th of June, 1775, leaving a cross erected near the shore, with an inscription setting forth the fact of their having visited theplace and taken possession of it for their sovereign. Tins monument the tndiaus promised to respect, and they kept their word, for Vancouver found it there untouched in 1793. The Spaniards considered the discovery of the place important, the harbor being, according to their journals, safe and spacious, and presenting facUities for communication between vessels and the Bh0re ; and the surrounding country fruitful and agreeable. Vancouver, however, gives a much less favorable view of the harbor, which he pronounces to be in no respect a secure retroat for vessels, as it is entirely open to the southwest winds, which blow on that coast with the utmost violence at certain seasons of the year. The other accounts of the Spaniards, respecting the place and its inhabitants, are, in general, confirmed by those of the British navigator. ' The Spaniards, after leaving Port Trinidad, were obliged to keep at a distance from the coast for three weeks, at the end of which time they again came in sight of it, in the latitude of +5° 27', being the north part of the coast line of Washington Territory. From that parallel they examined the shore t0Wards the south, in search of the strait said to have been discovered bv Juan de Fuca in 1592. the entrance of which was placed, in Bellin's chart, between the forty-seventh and forty-eighth degrees of latitude; and, having satisfied theniselves that no such opening existed there, the two vessels cast anchor near the land, though at some distance from each other, in order to obtain water and trade with the natives. -Here a severe misfortune befell the schooner on the 14th of July. Seven of her men, who had been sent ashore ,,, | lyboat, though well armed, were attacked and murnnmediateiy on landing, b3 the natives; and bh< jchooner was herself in n h danger of being taken by tl \ , who surrounded her, during the whole day.in gre numbers, in their canoes, and were with difficulty prevented from boarding her D BL1 > . - \N" THI Kl \M \ Mi. After leaving Trinidad w shall pass the uth of R wood Creek andsee the noted gold bluffs, where th. precious metal is washed out by the action of the waves and deposited in the sands of tl"- sea. The next important coasl opening is a large river called the Klamath. It empties into the ocean over a beach. The stream carries a great deal of water but a sand pit runs from the south point and crowds the entrance close to the rocky bluff to the northward. The bar is extremely unreliable and although small coast vessels have entered il frequently it is generally considered dangerous and impracticable for navigation The current at the mouth is very strong. Extensive mining operations are conducted on the Trinity River which empties into the Klamath. CRESCENT 'Tl'V BAY. In summer there is always some swell in this bay, and in winter it rolls fearfully and vessels have always to anchor where they can slip and run to sea. A- vessel off this coast and wishing to make a harbor in a gale would never venture into Crescent City Bay, unless she knew her position accurately and was well acquainted with the coast and all its hidden dangers. The usual anchorage is. on a line between the light-house and the north side of a large inlet three-quarters of a mile east of it. in three or four fathoms, hard bottom. Coast steamers run to this place, which is an important shipping point. The Examiners for Harbor of Refuge reported unfavorably on the harbor, "first, because it is too contracted; second, on account of the many dangers sunken, and likewise both in approaching and inside; third, because of the heavy breakers in southeast and southwest weather, clear across the entrance to the harbor from Steamboat Rock to Round Rock, from Round Rock to Mussle Rock and from that to the shore." The entire harbor is feather-white with breakers in a gale of wind from the southward. THE PROPOSED BREAKWATER. Nevertheless, in order to have definite ideas as to the location and cost of a breakwater, the Engineers included it in the roadsteads examined with a view to improvement. They consider the best way to be to build a breakwater from the rock on which the light-house is built, off Battery Point to Steamboat Rock 1,850 feet, and from there straight out in the same line 2,640 feet, which is equivalent to extending the point artificially. The estimated cost of carrying it out is §6,022,000.

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20 H.STOHY Of HUMBOLD^COU^CAUW; CRESBNTCITY LIGHT-HOUSE. The light hove is on the seaward estremity of the inland poi„t foling the sonthem and western sides o the narbo^ t I a fixed white varied by white flashes, and was erected m ' POINT ST. GEORGE. The Creaent City Keel's, or Dragon Rocks, extend some six miles from Point St. George, The passage inside the reef rs used by steamers. There are a few outlying roek and many sunken ones, „n one of whieh the BraOer Jonathan was lost, and many lives with her. smith's river. Smiths Eiver comes into the ocean through the sand heach some fourteen miles above Cresent City. The mouth of the river shifts considerably. Inside there is a narrow channel. The river is small, but the coasting steamers have entered it lately, as have also some schooners. A salmon cannery was started here last year. It has been only of late that there has been any trade, at the place, as it was supposed that the bar at the river's mouth was impracticable. There is a splendid belt of redwood in the vicinity, and the timber resources seem inexhaustible. This is to the last important feature of the California Coast. TIDES OF THE COAST. The tides on the coast of California are of a peculiar and apparently complicated character. The Coast Survey issues annually a book of tide tables for this coast, and so also does Thomas Tennant the chronometer maker and regulator. These coast survey tables are given for a few places, and a tab'e of tidal contents is appended by which the stage of the tide at other locations may be computed. There are on this coast, in each twenty-four hours, or rather in each lunar day of twentyfour hours and fifty minutes, two high and two low waters, which are unequal in height, and occur at unequal intervals, differing most from each other when the moon's declination is greatest, and least when the moon is on the equator. The high and low waters generally follow each other thus: Starting from the lowest low water the tide rises to the lower of the two high waters; then falls slightly to alow water higher than the former, and sometimes merely indicated by a long stand; then rises to the highest high water, whence it falls again to the lowest low water. The range of tide at San Francisco is about six feet. North it is greater, being about nine feet or more at spring tide at Astoria, Washington Territory. LIFE STATIONS AND FOG SIGNALS. The Government has established lately on this coast several life-saving stations fully equipped with life-boats and all necessary apparatus for giving assistance to shipwrecked mariners. Those in what is known as the Twelfth District are: FirstI Neeah Bay, W. T, at the entrance of the Strait of Fuca. ^l-Shoalwater Bay, W. T. Third-Cape Disappointment at the entrance of Columbia Rive, Fourth-Cape ment, at tne Fifth— Humboldt Bay. Arago, at the entrance ot Coos bay. Sixl-Bolinas Bay. Seventh-On Beach at Golden Gate Park, San Francisco. Eighth-Point Conception On the California Coast there are twenty-four hght-houses, including those in San Francisco Bay; there arc also eleven fog-whistles and three fog-bell, In the Thirteenth District, embracing Oregon and Washington Territory, there are tourteen lights, three fog-whistles and one bell. The total number of buoys on the coast and in the harbors is 109, exclusive of special buoys put down by interested parties. There are also forty-six day or unlighted beacons. Formerly heavy guns were stationed at prominent points and could be heard a distance of some eight miles. Now the foghorn, fog-whistle, and siren are used; the latter being most efficient. All the high light-houses like that at Cape Mendocino are useless as mere lights because situated at too creat an elevation to be always seen. The light should be lower down under the fog. These light-houses and stations are indicated on our chart. U. S. COAST SURVEY. The Government has provided maps, charts and sailing directions for this coast, the same as it has for other parts of its territory bounding on the sea. The Coast Survey is one of the most efficient branches of the Government Departments, and its work is done thoroughly and practically whenever undertaken. On this coast it has given not only coast-line charts with location of ports, anchorages, lights, fog-bells, etc., but also finely and correctly executed detailed maps of all the principal harbors with ample sailing directions for entering them, soundings, dangers, etc., all being plainly and carefully marked. " Davidson's Coast Pilot " is a Government publication, written by the accomplished officer who has been surveying and examining this coast for so many years. To it we are indebted for many of the items used in the preceding paragraphs. It is a book of some 300 pages, carefully written and giving directions for entering all the principal harbors. It also gives a general description of the coast-line, and detailed descriptions of the headlands, reefs, anchorages, lights, fog signals, etc. It describes an ocean shore-line of over 3,120 miles, divided as follows: California, including the islands of the Santa Barbara Channel, 1,097 miles; Oregon, 285 miles; Washington Territory, including islands in Washington Sound, and shores of Puget Sound, 1,738 miles. The third edition of this work was published in 1869, since which time the majority of the small chute landings on the coast have been established, so it mentions few of these.

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M* TOWN RES r5E7TCE^iTArBERDING. FERNDALE, HUMBOLDT COUNTY CALA. , v. ;■ ■■■■': •" " . ■■ pfe*^ ; . ' — - %i ■■ t •, i • » TOWN RESIDENCE OF R.F.KING, FERNDALE, HUMBOLDT COUNTY CAL*

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\ REVIEW ()F THE EARLY HISTORY. 21 A OI.AV i r EABLT HI K»Y. Bel atering re fully upon the history of the county it WOuld ,eem appropriate to take a glance at theearly history ol the State, and note a little of its progress during a short decade; including then. > i bablisl »nl rise and declineoi the mi .,„„ the rapidity and grandeur of its w lerful rise and probneextentof its home and foreign commerce; the dw ,.„,,,-, and astonishing produce of gold. No county history kherofore could he complete unless it included some account of the Circum8tance8 which brought each county into existence, and from whence came the men who organized and set the machinery of State and local governments in operation. It ,Annl,i thus I- well, then, that posterity should know something of fche early history of the State as well as of their own immediate neighborhood; and by placing these scenes upon record they will n-main fresh in the minds of the people that otherwise, in the lapse of years, must gradually fade away. RAPID SETTLEMENT AND PROGRESS. One hundred years ago— almost within the memory of men now living— but very little of California's soil had been trodden by the foot of civilized man. Up to the discovery of gold in 1848, it was an afav-off land, even to those on the western border of civilization. School-boys then looked upon their maps and wondered if they might ever be permitted to traverse the " unexplored region " marked thereon. About thattim-s when Thomas H. Benton said the child was then born that would see a railroad connecting ocean with ocean, most people smiled and thought that the day-dream of the old man had somewhat unsettled" his hitherto stalwart intellect. No dream of forty years ago.no matter how bright the colors that may have been placed before the imagination, ever pictured the California of to-day— our own, our loved California. PACIFIC OCEAN FIRST SEEN. 1 5 1 3.— The Pacific Ocean was given to the world by Vasco Nunez de Balboa, who looked down from the heights of Panama upon its placid bosom on the 25th day of September, 1513 the same year in which Mexico was conquered by Hernando Cortez. To Balboa, therefore belongs the credit of first seeing the Pacific Ocean. He, however, supposed it to be the great Southern Ocean. In 1520, Fernando Magellan sailed through the straits that bear his name, and finding the waters so little disturbed by the storms, he was induced to give it the name of Pacific Ocean. DISCOVERY OF CALIFORNIA. 1534, —Cortez fitted out two ships for discovery of the Pacific Coast. One was commanded by Becarra, who was murdered by his crew, led on by his own pilot Ortun, or Fortuno Zimenes. Zimenes afterward continued the voyage of discovery, and appears to have sailed westward across the gulf, and to have I .bed the , -.insula of California. This was in the year ,.-, | He therefore wasth. Brsl discoverer of the country. DISCOVERY OF CAPE MENDOCINO. I 5 i- _1 In the 27th of June, L542, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, wh0 had been one of Cortez-s pilots, left Navidad, in Mexico, ,„„!,, instructions from Antonio de Mendoza, Viceroy of Spain, ona „0ya I discovery. On the 5th of July he landed at , !ape Si Lucas, in Lower California, and following the coast, he finally entered the delightful harbor of San Diego, in Upper California, on September 28th. This place he named San Miguel, which was afterwards changed by Viscaino to that which it now bears. 1543.— He passed by the Golden Gate and reached latitude . 44° on the 10th of March, 1543. The cold became so intense that he headed his ship again for Navidad. ( Jabrillo landed at Cape Mendocino, which he called Cabo de Fortwnas (Cape of ' Perils), from the dangers encountered in its vicinity. This was February 26, 1543. Whatever discoveries may have been made by this navigator, were followed by no practical results. SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION. L579.—The next expedition along the coast seems to have been that of the English buccaneer, Francis Drake, afterwards knighted by Queen Elizabeth for his success in capturing and destroying the rich Spanish ships. There long existed a popular belief that Drake sailed into the harbor of San Francisco, and that the bay was named for him ; but it is now well settled that the bay he entered was that of Tomales, on the coast of Marin County. This once bore the name San Francisco. This noted English voyager, Sir Francis Drake, sailed along the coast in 1579. It is said his Spanish pilot, Morera, left him in Oregon, and thence found his way overland to Mexico, a distance of 3,500 miles. The name of New Albion was given to the country by Drake, with the evident mtention of securing it for the British crown. On the 22d of July, after repairing his ship and doubtless taking on board a goodly supply of fresh meat and water, Drake set sail for England, going by way of the Cape of Good Hope, and arriving in Plymouth November 3, 1580, having been gone about two years and ten months. He was the first Englishman who circumnavigated the, globe, and was the first man who ever made the entire voyage in the same vessel. He was graciously received by Queen Elizabeth., and knighted. She also gave orders for the preservation of his ship, the Golchn Hind' that it might remain a monument to his own and his country's glory. At the end of a century it had to be broken up, owing to decay. Of the sound timber a chair was made, which was presented by Charles IT. to the Oxford University. Sir Francis Drake died on board ship, at Nombre de Dios, in the West Indies, January 28, 1595.

22 A UBVIBW OF TEE EARLY HISTORY. DESCRIPTION OF THE ORIGINAL INHABITANTS. 1579.— The following is a highly colored description of the natives, as given by Drake: The natives bringing the Admiral (Drake) a present of feathers and cauls of net-work, he entertained thern so kindly and generously that they were extremely pleased, and soon afterwards they sent him a present of feathers and bags of tobacco. A number of them coming to deliver it, gathered themselves together at the top of a small hill, from the highest point of which one of them harangued the Admiral, whose tent was placed at the bottom. When the speech was ended, they laid down their arms and came down, offering their presents, at the same time returning what the Admiral had given them. The women remaining on the hill, tearing their hair and making dreadful howlings, the Admiral supposed them engaged in making sacrifices, and thereupon ordered divine service to be performed at his tent, at which these people attended with astonishment. The arrival of the English in California being soon known through the country, two persons in the character of ambassadors came to the Admiral and informed him, in the best manner they were able, that the King would visit him, if he might be assured of coming in safety. Being satisfied on this point, a numerous company soon appeared, in front of which was a very comely person, bearing a kind of sceptre, on which hung two crowns, and three chains of great length. The chains were of bones, and the crowns of net-work, curiously wrought with feathers of many colors. A MAJESTIC INDIAN KING. Next to the sceptre-bearer came the King, a handsome majestic person, surrounded by a number of tall men, dressed in skins, who were followed by the common people, who, to make the grander appearance, had painted their faces of various colors, and all of them, even the children, being loaded with presents. The men being drawn up in line of battle, the Admiral stood ready to receive the King within the fences of his tent. The company having halted at a distance, the sceptre- bearer made a speech, half an hour long, at the end of which he began singing and dancing, in which he was followed by the King and all the people, who, continuing to sing and dance, came quite up to the tent; when sitting down, the. King took off his crown of feathers, placed it on the Admiral's head, and put on him the other ensigns of royalty; and it is said that he made him a solemn tender of his whole kingdom ; all of which the Admiral accepted in the name of the Queen, his sovereign, in hopes that these proceedings might, one time or other, contribute to the advantage of England. ATTEMPT TO POSSESS THE COUNTRY. 1602.— Then there is another silence conce ning this region, of twenty-four years, when Viscaino comes, exploring more carefully, and searching for harbors. It was not until 1602 that the Spaniards took any actual steps to possess and colonize the continent. In that year Don Sebastian Viscaino was dispatched by the Viceroy of Mexico, acting under the instructions of his royal master, King Phillip III., on a voyage of search, in three small vessels. He visited various points on the coast, among them San Diego. BAY OF MONTEREY FOUND AND NAMED. 1602. — It is he who finds Monterey Bay. He gets there December 16, 1602. His object was to find a port where the ships coming from the Phillipine Islands to Acapulco, a trade which had then been established some thirty years, might put in, and provide themselves with wood, water, masts, and other things of absolute necessity. Viscaino gave the name of Monterey to that bay. On the next day after he anchored near the site of the present town of Monterey, religious worship was held " under a large oak by the sea-side." The description they give of the harbor says: "Near the shore is an infinite number of very large pines, straight and smooth, fit for masts, and yards, likewise oaks of a prodigious size, for building ships. Here likewise are rose trees, white thorns, firs, willows and poplars; large clear lakes, and fine pastures and arable lands." Viscaino leaves on the 3d of January, 1603, and then follows a long silence of more than a hundred and sixty years, during which no record speaks of this region of country. FOUNDING OF FIRST MISSION. 1763. — A great zeal for missions had sprung up, and then prevailed in Mexico for Christianizing the regions at the North. The glowing descriptions of the old navigators who touched here more than a hundred and fifty years before, were revived, and now came into existence a desire, both in Spain and Mexico, to enter into and possess the land. Two divisions of the expedition reached San Diego nearly at the same time. One by sea and the other by land, up the peninsula of Lower California. They were at San Diego together, and founded the first of the missions of Upper California on the 16th day of July, 1769. But their zeal was too great to allow them to wait at the southernmost border of the promised land. They set their faces northward. MONTEREY SEARCHED FOR AFTER 167 YEARS. 1769.— They had read of Viscaino, and his glowing description of the country around the bay he named " Monterey." They proposed to set out at once to find it by land. The expedition left San Diego July 10, 1769, and was composed of Governor Portala, Captain Re vera, with twenty-seven soldiers with leathern jackets, and Lieutenant P. Fages, with seven volunteers of Catalonia, besides Engineer Constanzio, and fifteen Christian Indians, from Lower California.

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EXPLORERS NAME THE RIVERS AND TREES. 23 Fathei Ore piandG z« ripaniedthem foi bheii spiritual consolation, and to keep a dto^ ^^ Owing 1(i ,,,,,„,. ,-,. pi diary, the principal incident! oi thu i. I i neyhyland up tfaif coa I are known tons. They kept „,,„ the m ihorc mosl of the way. They were constantly ,„„ rancheriae of Indians, whom they greeted as well as bh km.w h0Wj and they were not molest..! by them. It was tate i„ September when they came in sight of the Bay ot Monterey, the very bay they were in search of. but they did not recognize it! ,,,lh,, Crespi and the Commandant ascended a hill and looked down upon it. MONTEREY HAY NOT RECOGNIZED. L769.- -They recognized Point Pinoa, and New Year's Point M descrihed by < labrera, but they did not recognize the bay as Vis,ainos Bay of -Monterey!" It is certainly very strange that they did not, but for some reason they did not seem to have thought of its being the very identical spot they were in Bearcli of. The description of it by which they were guided, was ot course one given by those coming into the bay by water. It may not have been detailed or definite, or suited to guide those seeking it by land. At any rate, the soldiers explored Point Pinos on both sides, and yet "never recognized the place. They searched from the llth 'of November to the 9th of December. They were all half of a mind to give up the search and go back. But the resolution to proceed still further prevailed, and so they resumed their march. We trace them now step by step. They crossed the Salinas River. They passed several lagoons. They descended into the Pajaro Valley, and camped near the bank of the river. DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES. Moreover, in this valley they met with an encampment of Indians, numbering, as they said, five hundred. The Indians had no notice of the arrival of strangers in their land and were alarmed. Some took to their arms; some ran to and fro, shouting. The women fell to weeping bitterly. Sargent Ortega alighted from his horse and approached them, making signs of peace. He picked up from the ground arrows and little flags which they had set, and they clapped their hands in signs of approbation. , They were asked for something to eat. The women hastened to their huts and began to pound seeds and make a kind of paste. But when the fathers returned to the same spot the next day, fchey found onlv smoking remains of the Indians' camp, the Indians themselves having set fire to it and gone away. NAMES GIVEN TO RIVERS IND TREES. 1769.— They named the river " Pajaro," because they found here an immense bird killed, stuffed with hay. measuring nine feet and three inches from tip to tip of the wings spread out Here, too. not far from .the river, they made note of finding deer. They described the banks of the Pajaro River as they found them in the fall of 1700, thickly covered with trees. They spoke particularly of the redwood, calling it "palo Colorado," on account of its color. Father Crespi says the trees are very high, and thinks they resemble the cedar of Lebanon, save that the wood has no odor. The leaves, too, he says, are different, and the wood is very brittle. They stopped near a lake where there was a great deal of pasture, and they saw a number of cranes. They rested there three days, on account of the sick. • On the 17th of October they moved on again, walking all the time through good land, at a distance of some three miles from the sea. , ... At the end of that day's journey, they came to the river I known as San Lorenzo. They proposed to cross it, not far from the sea. They found the banks steep. They were thickly grown with a forest of willows, cotton-wood and sycamore, so thick that they had to cut their way through. The river was fifty-four feet wide at the point where they forded, and the water reached the belly of their horses. " It was one of the largest rivers," Father Crespi says, " that we met with on our journey." »We camped on the north side of the river, and we had a great deal of work to cut down trees to open a little passage for our beasts. Not far from the river we saw a fertile spot, where the crrass was not burnt, and it was pleasure to see the pasture, amUhe variety of herbs and rose bushes of Castile. We did not see near the river, nor during our journey, any Indians." The next day about eight o'clock in the morning they moved on again. « After proceeding about five hundred steps,' Father Crespi says, "we passed a large stream of running water which had its source among high hills, and passing through a table-land, furnishes ample facility for irrigation." This creek they called " Santa Cruz." And so the little stream gave its name to the city- . ... Perhaps Justiniano Roxas* saw this first party of white men that ever visited this region. He must have been then about sixteen or seventeen years old. The company remained some sixteen days near the Bay of ~.T *- „„« Rnvw died at Santa Cruz, March 10, 1875, aged 123 years. His portrait ana >»0b™P J . fa f year9 aDout as destitute of J"?*; ISon Hts S was yeC' hard and fullof creases, and looked f^lin? M had taken all expression from his countenance. His like parchment A^e naa u ^ fc ff Hig j t eara were apent eyes were nearij r dosed. He wa Iked with^ i ^^ y^ fa ui trying to keep warm. a* n „ e He wfflg cared fof b tfaf f^T^tf!^^^. Hewas baptized 4* of March, 1792 by the record.

24 COtfriNCTED DISCOVERIES BY LAND AND SEA. Monterey. Long enough to get a very fair idea of the climate. The sky was clear and there was no fog. They pushed on northward until they discovered San Francisco Bay and reached the Golden Gate itself. BAY OF SAN FBANCI8CO FOUND AND NAMED. 1769 —On the 1st of November, 1769, they sent a party to Point Reyes. On the 2d of November, several hunters of the expedition ascended the high mountains more towards the east; and, although we have no correct information as to the names of those hunters, it is certain that they were the first white inhabitants who saw the large arm of the sea known at present as the Bay of San Francisco. The portion that was seen by them was that which lies between the San Bruno mountains and the estuary or creek of San Antonio (Oakland). They discovered the bay, unless the honor is accorded to the exploring party that returned on the 3d of November, who also had discovered the branch of the 'sea, by which they were prevented from reaching Point Reyes, and the primitive bay first called San Francisco. On the 4th of November the whole of the expedition saw the newly discovered bay, and they tried to go around it by the south ; but not being able to do so, they returned to Monterey. And so, by the merest accident, they came upon the worldrenowned Bay of San Francisco. Finding it a place answering every requirement he named it after San Francisco de Asis ; and seven years later, June 27, 1776, possession was taken of the spot and a presidio established, the mission being located on the site of the present church. MONTEREY BAY VISITED AGAIN BUT NOT RECOGNIZED. 1769. — Towards the end of November, we find them tarrying around Monterey again, not even now knowing that they were looking on the very harbor they were in search of! They even think it possible that the harbor that Viscaino found 166 years before, and described in such glowing terms, may be filled with sand, and for that reason they cannot find it. They erect a large cross near Point Pinos and place a writing at the foot of it, describing their hardships and disappointments, in case the vessel called the San Jose should anchor in that vicinity; and any of those on board should discover the cross and find the writing. Finally, after many hardships, on the 24th day of January, 1770, half dead with hunger, they arrive at San Diego, after an absence of six months. They have accomplished that long and exceedingly laborious journey; they have twice passed and looked upon the very bay they were in search of, not knowing it ! MONTEREY BAY FOUND AT LAST. 1770.— The next time Monterey Bay was searched for it was found. It was in the same year, 1770, that two new expeditions were fitted out. The two parties set out from San Diego to find it, one by land, the other by water. They find the bay this time, reaching it very nearly together. On the 3d day of June, 1770, they take possession of the land in the name of the King of Spain. On the same day Father Junipero begins his mission by erecting a cross, hanging bells from a tree, and saying mass under the same venerable rock wh-re Viscaifio's party celebrated it in 1602, 168 years before. OBJECT OF THE MISSIONS. The missions were designed by the Mexican Catholics for the civilization and conversion of the Indians. The latter were instructed in the mysteries of religion (so far as they could comprehend them) and the arts of peace. Instruction of the savages in agriculture and manufactures, as well as in prayers and elementary education, was the padre's business. At first the Indians were exceedingly cautious about approaching or connecting themselves with this new style of civilization, but gradually their fears and superstitions were overcome, and they began to cluster about the fathers. Their old habits and manner of living were thrown off", and they contented themselves with the quiet life and somewhat laborious duties of the missions. INDIANS NOT EASILY CIVILIZED. The California Indian was anything but an easy subject for civilization. Knowledge he had none ; his religion and morals were of the crudest form, while all in all he was the most degraded of mortals. He lived without labor, and existed for naught save his ease and pleasure. In physique he was unprepossessing; he was possessed of great endurance and strength; his features were unattractive, his hair in texture like the mane of a horse, and his complexion as dark as the Ethiop's skin. His chief delight was the satisfs'ing of his appetite and lust, while he lacked courage enough to be war-like, and was devoid of that spirit of independence usually the principal characteristic of his race. The best portion of his life was passed in sleeping and dancing, while in the temperate California climate the fertile valleys and hill-sides grew an abundance of edible seeds and wild fruits, which were garnered, and by them held in great store. Such means of existence being so easily obtained is, perhaps, a reason for the wonderful disinclination of Indians to perform any kind of labor. Indeed, what need was there that they should toil when nature had placed within their reach an unlimited supply of food ? MISSION RANCHOS SET APART. Besides the missions, presidios, castilos, and pueblos, it may be remarked that there were certain public farms, called ranehos, set apart for the use of the soldiers. They were cren

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MAD RIVER SAW MILL,18 MILES FROM EUREKA,*™

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MBOLDT CO. CAL. JOHN YANCE.PROPRIETOR

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FOUNDING OX THE VARIOUS MISSIONS. „all,f .orfiv, ■ '"■l"'*" """ I., ,1, ,. of the different i andanfc Uttle nse, however, ee - ' k'"F ll taJ> !"f *2 wore left in a «, .« •»— .«* tog.fi Seattle and I »be ging to the presuJ.ee. ' l„,l tabli. « of »U the three agences brough to b»r were the military, the civil.and the rBligious>tng each ,](,,,11,,M,11l,,-J-'S»"-> pa^tothefw.. 0, civ, it/i »" the *"*• Wh'C played the most prominent part. TABLE OF THE OTTER CALIF0KN1AN MISSIONS. •: ,,, Hi, ., di Hi ,Ia ■ ■ ■ San Carlos . the. Simla Inez river. . -„„ja Where town ol Santo Czu* now stands. Or, tho Salinas rivor, Monterey county. Where the eit\ ol San Jose now w. On the San Juan river, San Benito co. On the Sallna. river, Monterey county. Twenty mile- K. W. from Los Angclee. j Thirteen and a half leagues from San TweMaguea from Santa Barton. North of San Kmnciseo Bay, Marin CO. Sonoma, Sonoma county. SAN CARLOS DE MONTEREY ESTABLISHED* 1770 -The third attempt to establish a settlement at Monterey proved successful, as heretofore noticed. The following extract from a letter of the leader of the expedition to Father Francisco Palou. gives a graphic account of the ceremonies attending the formal founding of the Mission of San Carlos de Monterey, by Padre Junipero Serra, on that memorable day, June 3, 1770. « On the 31st of May. 1770, by favor of God. after rather a painful voyage of a month and a half, the packet *» Antonio, commanded by Don Juan Perez, arrived and anchored in this beautiful port of Monterey, which is unadulterated in any degree from what it was when visited by the expedition 0f Don* Sebastian Viscaino, in 1620. It gave me great consolation to find that the land expedition had arrived eight days before us, and that Father Crespi and all others were in good health On the 3d of June, being the holy day of Pentecost, the whole of the officers of sea and land, and all the people, ambled on the bank at the foot of an oak, where we caused an altar to be erected, and the bells rang; we then chanted the „„; Creator, blessed the water, erected and Messed a grand cr0SS) hoisted the royal standard, and chanted the first mass that was ever performed in this place; we afterwards sung the Salve to Our Lady before an image of the illustrious Virgin, which occupied the altar; and at the same time preached a sermon, concluding the whole with a Te Deum. After this the officers took possession of the country in the name of the King [Charles III- our Lord, whom God preserve. We then ail dined together inashady place on the beach; the whole ce, mooy being accompanied by many volleys and salutes by the troops ami " Bsela -,,[,: MISSION OF SAN AHTONIO* ,771 -This mission was founded by Padre Junipero Serra, July 1+ 1771. and is situated about twelve leagues south of Soledad, in Monterey I lounty, on the border of an inland stream up0n which it has conferred its name The buildings were inclosed in a square, 1,200 feet on each side, and walled with adobes. Its lands were forty-eight leagues m circumference, including seven farms, with a convenient house and chapel attached to each. The stream wa, conducted in paved trenches twenty miles for purposes of irrigation; large crops rewarded the husbandry of the padres. In 1822 this mission owned 52,800 head of cattle, 1. 800 tame horses, S.000 mares 500 yoke of working oxen, 600 mules, 48,000 sheep, and 1,000 swine "The climate here is cold in winter and mtensely hot i„ summer. This mission on its secularization fell m to the hands of an administrator who neglected its farms, drove off ri. SI left its poor Indians to starve."-^ Coltons Three Years in California. The mission grapes were very sweet-, wine and aguardiente I were made from them in early days, and the grapes were brought to Monterey for sale. The vineyard and garden walls are now gone, and the cattle have destroyed the vines ; many of the buildings are down, and the tiles have been removed to oof houses on some of the adjoining, ranches. The church , still in good repair. There waa formerly a good £*«*•» the mission, but that also, like the mission, is a thing of the past. THE MISSION OF SOLEDAD. 1791 -Mission Soledad waa founded October 9, 1791, and is situated fifteen leagues southwest of Monterey on the left bank of the Salinas River, in a fertile plain known by the name of the "Llano del Bey." The priest waa an indefatigable agrrcu.turis, To obviate the summer drought, he constructed through the labor of his Indians, an aqueduct extending fifteen miles,°by which he could water 20,000 acres. IMMENSE BANDS OF CATTLE. In 1826 the mission owned about 36,000 head of cattle, and a greater number of horses and mares than any other mission in the country. . So meat was the reproduction of these animals that they were not only given away, but also driven in bands into he Bav of Monterey, in order to preserve the pasturage for the cattle. It had about 70,000 sheep and 300 yoke of tame oxen. Monterey County," by Elliott & Co.

26 DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST MISSIONS. In 1819 the major-domo of this mission gathered 3,400 bushels of wheatfromthirty-eightbushelssown. Its secularization has been followed by decay and rmn.-WaUer Cotton. The mission possessed a fine orchard of 1,000 trees, but very few were left in 1849. There was also a vineyard about six miles from the mission in a gorge of the mountains. MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA.* !794._This mission looms over a rich valley ten leagues from Monterey-founded 1794. Its lands swept the broad interval and adjacent hills. In 1820 it owned 43,870 head of cattle, 1,360 tame horses, 4,870 mares, colts and fillies. It had seven sheep farms, containing 69,530 sheep; while the Indians attached to the mission drove 321 yoke of working oxen. Its store-house contained $75,000 in goods and §20,000 in specie. REIGN OF DESOLATION AT SAN JUAN. This mission was secularized in 1834; its cattle slaughtered for the hides and tallow, its sheep left to the wolves, its horses taken by the dandies, its Indians left to hunt acorns, while the wind sighs over the grave of its last padre. — Walter Colton. This melancholy picture is not too highly colored. Doubtless the secularization laws were intended to benefit the Indians of the mission, nor does it seem that they were conceived in a spirit of unfriendliness to the padres. HOW THE BUILDING MATERIAL WAS PREPARED. None of this building stone was found in the vicinity of San Juan Bautista, so that its church is built entirely of adobe (sun-dried brick) and ladrillo, a species of brick that was baked in a subterranean kiln. The adobe was made out of a species of soil, common to most parts of California. The material was mixed with straw, thoroughly kneaded by hand and foot, moulded into the desired dimensions., and afterwards spread upon the earth to dry in the sun, being turned twice in the process of drying, to prevent cracking. The regulation adobe was about thirty inches long by sixteen wide and four thick, and weighed fifty pounds. The bricks were made of clay, mixed and kneaded like the adobe, and baked in subterranean kilns, with a slow fire. These brick were twelve inches long by eight wide and two thick, and are wonderfully durable, as may be seen in the mission church and corridor ; the floors of which (being laid with this brick) are hardly abraded by the wear and tear of three-quarters of a century. DESCRIPTION OF MISSIONS. The missions were usually quadrilateral buildings, two stories high, inclosing a court-yard ornamented with fountains and trees. The whole consisting of the church, father's apartments, store-houses, barracks, etc. The quadrilateral sides were each about 600 feet in length, one of which was partly occupied by the church. •An extended history of these missions will be fouud in the "History of San Benito County," by Elliott & Co. And so they began their work, surrounded by beautiful scenerv but in seclusion and loneliness. They lived under the shadow of the hills. The sun rose bright and the air was mild, as now and the music of the surf, and the roar of the ocean in times of storm-these things must have been as familiar to them as they are now to us. But there must have been something of sublimity about them when all around was in a condition of nature, that we miss in our more artificial life. They go about their work. They get together the Indians as soon^as possible, to communicate with them. They teach them some rude approach to the arts of civilized life. They teach the men to use tools, and the women to weave. TABLE SHOWING POPULATION OP THE MISSIONS IN TEAR 1802. MOSTLY CHRISTIANIZED INDIANS. DATE OP FOOSD1KO 1769 1798 1776 1771 17!>7 1782 1786 1787 1772 1797 1791 1771 1770 1797 1794 1777 1797 1770 1804 1817 1823 HAME OF HIS8I0H. San Diego San Luis Rey de Francia . . . San Juan Capistrano San Gabriel San Fernando San Buenaventura Santa Barbara La Purissima Conception San Luis Obispo San Miguel Soledad San Antonio de Padua San Carlos de Monterey San Juan Bautista Santa Cruz Santa Clara San Jose San Francisco Santa Inez San Rafael Archangel San Francisco de Solano Totals 737 256 502 532 317 436 521 457 374 309 296 568 376 530 238 736 327 433 7945 822 276 511 515 297 502 572 571 325 305 267 484312 42S 199 555 295 381 1559 532 1013 1047 614 938 1093 1028 699 614 563 1052 688 958 437 1291 622 814 7617 15562 BUILDING MISSION CHURCHES. Time passes away and we find them with a great work on their hands. It is nothing less than the building of a church. We think that to be no small undertaking even now, with all our facilities. But it is not easy for us to imagine what it was to them, with nothing but hand labor ; and that of a very rude sort. Fifteen years seems a long time to devote to the erection of a church, even when we consider the character of the laborers and the rude tools and appliances used in its construction. But they set about it. They make adobes. They cut down the trees. They hew out the timber. By some means they get it up to the spot. No small undertaking that as we can see now by examining those very beams, in what remains of those old churches. Nor did the hewing lack in skill and accuracy, as you can

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DESCRIPTION OF THE MISSION CHURCUE& 27 :i| 10 ee, and the solid adobe walls, you can measure them, and you will find them to be five feet thick. It took often several yea,} to build a church. And so life at the mission began in earnest. Other buildings were erected as they came to be needed MISSION DAILY LIFE. The daily routine at all the missions was very much alike and was about as follows: — They rose at sunrise and proceeded to the church, to attend morning prayers. Break fast followed. Then the day's work. Towards noon they returned to the mission and passed the time till two o'clock in the afternoon, between dinner and reposeAfter that hour they resumed work and continued it till about sunset. Then all betook themselves to the church for evening devotions, and then to supper. After supper came amusements till the hour for retiring. Their diet consisted of beef and mutton, with vegetables in the season. Wheaten cakes and puddings or porridge, called atole and pinole, formed a portion of the repast. Government Order No. 6, issued From Monterey July 20, 1798, is "to cause the arrest of Jose Vrriola, and send him, under guard, so that he be at i 1 lis place during the coming Sunday, from there to go to Santa Durham, there to comply with his promise he made a young womau of that place to marry her." The records do not inform us whether Jose fulfilled his agreement with the young lady or not! Extract from a letter dated Monterey, June 3, 1709: — * * * "I send you by the wife of the pensioner, Josef Brabo, one piece of cotton goods and one ounce of sewing View of Mission Buildings at San Juan. The dress was, for the males, linen shirt, trousers, and a blanket. The women had each two undergarments a year, a gown and a blanket. What a dreamy secluded life it must have been, with communication with the outer world only at intervals. LAWS FOR THE COLONISTS. We make the following extracts from laws sent the colonists and bearing date Monterey, March 23, 1816:— "AH persons must attend mass, and respond in a loud voice, and if any person should fail to do so, without good cause, they will be put in the stocks for three hours." "Living in adultery, gaming and drunkenness will not be allowed, and he who commits such vices shall be punished." Another order required every colonist to possess "two yoke of oxen, two plows, two points or plowshares (see engraving of plow), two hoes for tilling the ground, and they must provide themselves with six hens and one cock." silk. There are no combs, and I have no hope of receiving any for three years. Hermenegildo Sal, " Military Governor." Just think of the colonists being without combs for three years ! DESCRIPTION OF MISSION CONVERTS. Captain Beechey.in 1826, visited the missions, and says:— "If any of the captured Indians show a repugnance to conversion, it is the practice to imprison them for a few days, and then allow them to breathe a little fresh air in a walk around the missions, to observe the happy mode of life of their con verted countrymen; after which they are again shut up, and thus continue incarcerated until they declare their readiness to renounce the religion of their fathers." " In the aisles and passages of the church, zealous beadles of the converted race are stationed, armed with sundry weapons of potent influence in effecting silence and attention, and whic h

28 DKCLINB OF THE VARIOUS MISSIONS. are not sparingly used on the refractory. These consist uf sticks and whips, long goads, etc., and they are not idle in the hands of the officials." "Sometimes they break their bonds and escape into their original haunts. When brought back to the mission he is always flogged and then has an iron clog attached to one of his legs, which has the effect of preventing his running away and marking him out in terrorem to others." Notwithstanding this dark picture, it must not be imagined that life was one of much hardship, or that they even thought so. THE FIRST INDIAN BAPTISM. 1770. — Of those who came oftenest among them at San Diego, was an Indian about fifteen years of age, who was at last induced to eat whatever was given him without fear. Father Junipero had a desire to teach him, and after understanding a little of the language he desired him to try and bring some little one for baptism. He was told to tell the parents that by allowing a little water to be put on the head the child would become a son of God, be clothed and become equal to the Spaniards. He returned with several Indians, one of whom brought the child for baptism. Full of joy the child was clothed, and the venerable priest ordered the soldiers to attend this first baptism. The ceremony proceeded, and as the water was about to be poured the Indians suddenly snatched away the child and made off in great haste, leaving the father in amazement, with the water in his hands unused. It was not, however, until the 26th of December, 1770, that the first baptism of the Indians was celebrated at Monterey, which turned out better than the first attempt at San Diego. But at the end of three years only 175 were baptized, showing that the Indians received civilization slowly. MISSION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 1776.— On September 17, 1776, the presidio and mission of San Francisco were founded, on what was then the extreme boundary of California, the former in a manner being a frontier command, having a jurisdiction which extended to the farthest limits of Spanish discovery. In its early day the whole military force in Upper California did not number more than from two to three hundred men, divided between the four presidios of San [Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco, while there were but two towns or pueblos, Los Angeles and San Jose. When Junipero Serra and his band of missionaries entered Upper California from the lower territory, they brought with them a number of horses, mules, and cattle, wherewith to stock the proposed missions. These were duly distributed, and in time asses, sheep, goats, and swine were added. RICH MEN OF 1793. 1733.-AO inventory of the rich men of the presidio of San Franasco, beanog date 1793, was discovered some years since, showing that the entire number of stock owned by fourteen wealthy Spaniards, was 115 cattle, 298 sheep and 17 maresThese are the men who laid the foundation of these immense hordes of cattle which were wont to roam about the entire State, and who were the fathers of those whom we now term native Californians. As year succeeded year so did their stock increase. They recieved tracts of land " almost for the asking." Vast bands of cattle roamed about at will over the plains and among the mountains. Once a year these had to be driven in and rodeod, i. e., branded, a work of considerable danger, and one requiring much nerve. The occasion of rodeoi/ng, however, was the signal for a feast; a large beeve would be slaughtered, and all would make merry until it .was consumed. The rule or law concerning branded cattle in those early days was very strict. If any one was known to have branded his neighbor's cattle with his own mark, common usage called upon him to return in kind fourfold. Not only did this apply to cattle alone, but to all other kinds of live-stock. TABLE SHOWING NUMBER OF MISSION INDIANS BETWEEN 1802 AND 1822. Naub op Mission. San Diego San Luis Rey San Juan Capistrano. . Santa Catarina San Fernando San Gabriel Santa Barbara San Buenaventura Purissima Conception . . San Luis Obispo San Miguel San Antonio de Padua . Our Lady of Soledad. . . San Carlos San Juan Bautista Santa Cruz Santa Clara San Jose San Francisco San Rafael Totals . BAPTIZED. MARRIKD. DIBD. 1,460 3,186 4,024 922 1,507 3,879 1,026 2,531 6,906 1,638 4,635 2,519 709 1,505 3,608 973 2,608 4,917 1,288 3,224 1,195 330 896 3,100 919 2,173 2,562 715 1,954 2,205 632 1,336 4,11-9 1,037 317 1,932 584 1,333 3,267 912 2,432 3.270 823 1,853 2,136 718 1,541 7,324 2,056 6,565 4,573 1,376 2.933 6,804 2.050 5,202 829 244 183 r4,621 20,412 47,925 : 1,696 2,663 1,052 1,593 1,001 973 1,010 582 7G4 467 926 834 532 341 1,222 499 1,394 1,620 958 830 20,958 DECLINE OF THE MISSIONS. 1803.— In this year one of the missions had become the scene of a revolt; and earlier still, as we learn from an unpublished correspondence of the fathers, it was not unusual for some of the converted Indians to abandon the missions and return to their former wandering life. It was cus'omary on those occasions to pursue the deserters, and compel them to return. 1813.— The extinction of the missions was decreed by act of the Spanish Cortez in IS] 3, and again in 1828; also, bv the

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VIEW OF THE VILLAGE OF TRINIDAD, HUMBOLDT CO.CAL. OFFICE OF THE DAILY HUMBOLDT TIMES, W. H .WYMAN, PROPRIETOR

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SECULARIZATION OF TUB MISSIONS. 9 ,u, . ,,„,, Ccogra • 'm 1*33. i i tl,,;y v/r" ,1,. pojiod of then property, until their final overthrow in 1845 Uauh ,,,.,■, ivc revolution in Mexico had recourse to the rich ( lalifornia mi iiona for plunder. In 1813, when the contest foi national independence wax being waged on Mexican territory, Spain resolved upon di>pensing with the services of the fathers, by placing the n«isBions in the band of the secular clergy. The professed ohjecl of this secularization scheme was, indeed, the welfare of the Indians and colonists; hut how little this accorded with the real intentions of the Government, is seen from the seventh section of the decree passed by the corti-s, wherein it is stated that one-half of the land was to be hypothecated for the payment of the national debt. This decree of the Government was not carried out at the time, yet it had its effect on the state and well-being of the missions in general. REIGN OF DISORDER BEGINS. 1826.— In 182G instructions were forwarded by the Federal Government to the authorities of California for the liberationof the Indians. This was followed a few years later by another Act of the Legislature, ordering the whole of the missions to be secularized and the religious to withdraw. The ostensible object assigned by the authors of this measure, was the execution of the original plan formed by the Government. The missions, it was alleged, were never intended to be permanent establishments. Meantime, the internal state of the missions was becoming more and more complex and disordered. The desertions were more frequent and numerous, the hostilities of the unconverted more daring, and the general disposition of the people inclined to revolt. American traders and freebooters had entered the country, spread themselves all over the province, and sowed the seeds of discord and revolt among the inhabitants. Many of the more reckless and evil-minded readily listened to their suggestions, adopted their counsels, and broke out into open hostilities In 1802, when Humboldt visited California, he estimated the whole population of the upper country as follows: Converted Indians., 15,502; whites and mulattoes, 1,300; total, 66,862. Wild Indians, or bestias (beasts), as they were called, were quiu- numerous but being unbaptized were considered beneath the notice of reasonable bei] ATTACKS UN SEVERAL MISSIONS. Their hostile attack was first directed against the mission of Santa Cruz, which was captured and plundered, when they directed their course to Monterey, and, in common with their American friends, attacked and plundered that place. From these and other like occurrences, it was clear that the condition of the missions was one of the greatest peril. The spirit of discord had spread among the people, hostility to the authority j of the fathers had become common, while desertion from the villages was of frequent and almost constant occurrence. SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS. 1833.— The Mexican Congress passed a bill to secularize the missions in Upper and Lower California, August 17, 1833. This took away from the friars the control of the mission property, placing it in charge of administrators; it gave the civil officers predominance over the priestly class. The President of the Republic issued his instructions to Governor Figueroa, of California, who in turn, August 9, 1834, issued a decree that in August, 1835, ten of the missions would be converted into pueblos or towns. A portion of the mission property was then divided among the resident Indians, and the decree issued for the liberation of all the Indians was immediately put in force. The dispersion and demoralization of the people were the immediate results. Released from all restraint, the Indians proved idle, shiftless, and dissipated, wholly incapable of self-control, and a nuisance both to themselves and to every one with whom they came in contact. Within eight years after the execution of the decree, the number of Christains diminished from 30,650 to 4,450! A REVIEW OF THE MISSIONS. At the end of sixty-five years, Hon. John W. Dwinelle tells us, in Centennial Memoirs, page 89, that the missionaries of Upper California found themselves in possession of twenty-one prosperous missions, planted upon a line of about 700 miles, running from San Diego north to the latitude of Sonoma. More than 30,000 Indian converts were lodged in the misMission CnuRCH ani> Buildings at Sonoma.

30 REIGN OF DESTRUCTION AND DESOLATION. sion buildings, receiving religious culture, assisting at divine worship, and cheerfully performing their easy tasks. Over 700,000 cattle of various species, pastured upon the plains' as well as 60,000 horses. One hundred and twenty thousand bushels of wheat were raised annually, which, with maize, beans, peas, and the like, made up an annual crop of 180,000 bushels; while, according to the climate, the different missions rivaled each other in the production of wine, brandy soap, leather, hides, wool, oil, cotton, hemp, linen, tobacco, salt and soda. Of 200,000 horned cattle annually slaughtered, the missions furnished about one-half, whose hides, hoofs, horns and tallow were sold at a net result of §10 each, making $1,000,000 dollars from that source alone; while the other articles of which no definite statistics can be obtained, doubtless reached an equal value, making a total production by the missions themselves of §2,000,000. RAPID DECLINE OF CONVERTS. It will thus be observed that out of the 74,621 converts received into the missions, the large number of 47,925 had succumbed to disease. What the nature of this plague was it is hard to establish; the missionaries themselves could assign no cause. It was, in all probability, caused by a sudden change in their lives from a free, wandering existence, to ' a state of settled quietude. EARLY COLONIZATION PARTY. 1834. — During the year 1834, one Jose Maria Hijar was dispatched from Mexico with a colonization party, bound for Upper California. The ship touched at San Diego, and here a portion of the party disembarked. The remainder proceeded to Monterey, and, a storm arising, their ship was wrecked upon the beach. Hijar now presented his credentials, and was astonished to find that a messenger overland from Mexico had already arrived bringing news of Santa Ana's revolution, together with dispatches from the new president revoking his (Hijar 's) appointment; and continuing to keep Figueroa in office. In the bitter discussion that followed, it came out that Hijar had been authorized to pay for his ship, the Natalia* in mission talloiv; that the colonists were organized into a company, duly authorized to take charge of the missions, squeeze out of them the requisite capital, and control the business of the territory. The plan had miscarried by a chance, but it showed the missionaries what they had to expect. With the energy born of despair, eager at any cost to outwit those who sought to profit by their ruin, the mission fathers hastened to destroy that, which through more than half a century, thousands of human beings had spent their lives to accumulate. TABLE EXPLAINING THE .CONTRAST BETWEEN THE ADMINISTRATION OF THE MISSIONS BY THE FATHERS IN 1834 AND THAI OF THE CrVTL AUTHORITIES IN 1842. NAMES OF THE MISSIONS. San Diego San Louis Rev Sun Juan Capistrano San Gabriel San Fernando Sun Buenaventura Santa Barbara Santa Inez La Pnrissiina Conception . . San Luis Obispo S:m Miguel San Antonio Nostra Sennra do la Solcdad. Mission del Canncl San Juan Bautisto. Santa Cruz Santa Clara San Jose Dolores de San Francisco. . . . San Rafael San Francisco Solano 2.fi(K) 3,500 1,700 2,700 1,503 1,100 1,200 1,800 000 1,250 1,200 1,400 700 600 1,450 000 1,800 2,300 500 1,250 1,300 Totals. NOMHEIt OF HOaNBD Cattle. 12,000 SO, (Mill 70,000 105,000 14,000 4,000; o.OOOl 14,000 15,000 9,000 4,000 12,000 6,000 3,000 n.ooo 8,000 13,000 2,400 5,O(i0 3,000 3,000 20 2,800 600 700 1,500 200 1.800 10,000 800 300 40 SO 1.5C 8,00 1,800 10 00U 1,900 2'i,oi)0 5,000 1,000 1,200 1,2'I0 2,000 4,000 2.500 2.000 1,200 700 1,200 800 1,200 1.100 1,000 600 700 10,050 4,450 390,400 29,020 32,000 3,820 321,500 31,000 123,000 No. op Sheep, Qoats and Swine. 17,000 100,000 io.ooo 40,000 7,000 6,000 6,000 12,000 14,000 7,000 10,000 14,000 7,000 7,000 9,000 10,000 15,009 10,000 4,0'J0 4,500 4,0.10 200 4,000 200 3,500 2,000 400 400 4,000 3,500 800 400 2,000 3,000 7,000 200 Si Km 1834. 18,000 14,000 10,000 20,000 8,000 3,000 3,000 3,500 6,000 4,000 2,500 8,000 2,500 1,500 8,500 2,500 6,000 10,000 2,500 1,600 8,000 •The identical vessel in which Napoleon escaped from the Isle of Elba-1815. GREAT SLAUGHTER OF CATTLE. Hitherto, cattle had been killed only as their meat was needed for use; or, at long intervals perhaps, for the hides and tallow alone, when an overplus of stock rendered such action necessary. Now they were slaughtered in herds. There was no market for the meat, and this was considered worthless. The creature was lassoed, thrown, its throat cut; and while yet writhing in the death agony its hide was stripped and pegged upon the ground to dry. There were no vessels to contain the tallow, and this was run into great pits dug for that purpose, to be spaded out anon, and shipped with the hides to market. Whites and natives alike revelled in gore, and vied with each other in destruction. So many cattle were there to kill, it seemed as though this profitable and pleasant work must last forever. The white settlers were especially pleased with the turn affairs had taken, and many of them did not scruple unceremoniously to appropriate large herds of young cattle wherewith to stock their ranches. Such were the scenes being enacted on the plains. MISSION BUILDINGS DESTROYED. At all the missions a similar work was going on. The outer buildings were unroofed, and the timber converted into firewood. Olive groves and orchards were cut down; shrubberies and vineyards torn up. Where the axe and vandal hands failed, fire was applied to complete the work of destruction. Then the solitary bell left hanging on each solitary and dismantled church, called their assistants to a last session of praise and prayer, and the worthy padres rested from their labors. When the government administrators came, there was but little left; and when they went away, there was nothing. MISSIONS ORDERED ABANDONED. 1845.— A proclamation of Governor Pico, June 5, 1845, provides: —

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FINAL DISPOSITION OF THE MISSIONS. 31 l That the governer should call togethei fcbe neophytes of fche following-named mi ions: Ban Rafael D n Soledad, Ban Miguel and La Pari rima; and in case 1 abandoned by their phytes, that he should give them one month' notice, by] Wfcion, to return and cultivate said roiBsions, which if they did not do, the missions should be declared abandoned, and the Assembly and governor dispose of thm ,•„. ||1(. g0od of the Department 2 That, fche .nissions of Carmel, San Juan Bautista, San JuanCapistrano and San Francisco Solano, should beconsidered M .„„.,,,„,, or villages, which was their present condition; and that the property which remained to them, the governor, aftor separating sufficient for the curate's house, for churches JM11, bheir pertinents, and for a municipal house, should sell at public auction, the product to he applied, first to pajing the aebte0£ thee8tablishmente,and the remainder, it any, to the benefit of divine worship. :; That the remainder of the missions to San Diego, inclusive should 1- rented at the discretion of the governor. SALE "I'' THE MISSIONS. Industries of Early Times. FABMING in California was in a very primitive state up toils occupation by the Americans. What forming the California^ did was of a very rude description; their plow was a primitive contrivance, their vehicles unwieldy. Such articles of husbandry as reapers, mowers and headers had not entered their dreams, and they were perfectly independent of their advantages. Grain was cut with a short, stumpy, smooth-edged sickle; it was threshed by the tramping of horse,. One of their few evils was the depredations of the wild Indians, who would sometimes steal their horses, and then the cattle would have to perform the work of separation. The cleaning of gram was performed by throwing it in the air with wooden shovels, and allowing the wind to carry off the chaff. In a work published in London in 1839, by Alexander Forbes, arc some interesting descriptions of the country about the Bay of Monterey, and the condition of farming as witnessed by h!m in 1835. PLOW USED BY CALIFORNIANS. 1845 -Ou the 28th of October of this year, Governor Pico gave public notice for the sale to the highest bidder of five nusBions viz: San Rafael, Dolores. Soledad, San Miguel and La Purissima; likewise for the sale of the remaining buildings in the pueblos (formerly missions) of San Luis Obispo, Carm6l San Juan Bautista, and San Juan Capistrano, after separating the Churches and their appurtenances, and a curates municipal and school house. The auctions were appointed t0 take place, those of San Luis Obispo, Purissima and San Juan Capistrano, the first four days of December following (1N45V those of San Rafael, Dolores, San Juan Bautista, Carmel, Soledad and San Miguel, the 23d and 24th of Januarv 1846; meanwhile, the Government would receive and take into consideration proposals in relation to said missions. The final disposition of the missions at the date of 1846 will be seen in the following:— TABLE SHOWING THE FINAL DISPOSITION OF MISSIONS. The plow used at that time must have been of great antiquity. It was composed of two principal pieces; one, called the main piece was formed out of a crooked branch of timber, cut from a tree of such a natural shape. This plow had only one handle, and no mould-board or other contrivance for turning over the furrow, and was, therefore, only capable of making a simple cut, equal on both sides. Namb op Missios. Shi Diego Son l.uU Rev San .lu.ui Capistrano Son Gabriel San Fernando San Buenaventura Santo Barbara Santa Vnca 1., I'luiMina sau Luis Obispo San Miguel San Antonio Soleilad Carmel du Monterey San Juan nautlsta Santa CrUl Santa Clara San Joac -• ■.-•■ — Dolores, (San Francisco}.. San Rafael s.ui Francisco Solano — H„u DlSrOSBDO* m rim Govbbnmk.it. 1845, and sold to Juan Cells, June, 1846. ^;:, :;; M.^S£ »"»» *»« a, i«6. to *-.

32 GOLDEN AGE OF NATIVE CALIFORNIANS. behind the horns, and tied firmly to tbeir roots and to the forehead by thongs, so that, instead of drawing by the shoulders, as with us now, they drew by the roots of the horns and forehead. They had no freedom to move their heads, and went with the nose turned up, and seemed to be in pain. With this plow only a sort of a rut could be made, and the soil was broken by successive crossing and recrossing many times. Plowing could only be done after the rains came, and an immense number of plows had to be employed. MODEKN FARMING TOOLS UNKNOWN. The harrow was totally unknown, and a bush was drawn over the field to cover in the seed; but in some places a long, heavy log of wood was drawn over the field, something of the plan of a roller, but dragging without turning round, so as to carry a portion of the soil over the seed. INDUSTRIES OF NATIVE CALIFORNIANS. The Californians were not without their native manufactures, and they did not, as is generally supposed, rely altogether upon the slaughter of cattle and the sale of hides and tallow. The missionaries had taught them the cultivation of the grape and manufacture of wine. Hemp, flax, cotton and tobacco were grown in small quantities. Soap, leather, oil, brandy, woo^ salt, soda, harness, saddles, wagons, blankets, etc., were manufactured. Of California it may be truly said, that before the admission of foreign settlers, neither the potato nor green vegetables were cultivated as articles of food. DAIRYING IN EARLY TIMES. The management of the dairy was totally unknown. There was hardly any such thing in use as butter and cheese. The butter was an execrable compound of sour milk and cream mixed together ; the butter being made of the cream on top of the milk, and a large portion of the sour, beat up together by hand, and without a churn. It was of a dirty gray color, and very disagreeable flavor, and always rancid. They had an awkward way of milking, as they thought it absolutely necessary to use the calf to induce the cow to give milk; so they let the calf suck for some time alone, and then lay hold of the teats as they could, while the calf was still sucking, and by a kind of stealth procured a portion of the milk. The supercargo of a British ship from India, bound to the coast of Mexico, informed Alexander Forbes* in 1832, that on making the coast of California, they touched at the Russian settlement, called La Bodega (Sonoma County), and which borders on the Spanish territory— or rather of right belongs to it, and although the part which the Russians possess is sterile in comparison to the fine plains occupied by the Spaniards, yet they found immediately on their arrival a present sent on board by the Russian Governor, of most excellent butter, fat mutton, and • K.iw a resident of Oakland. Sec Bioirr.ij.liy, page 31. ■ good vegetables, all things most desirable to people arriving from a long voyage. They soon proceeded to Monterey, the capital of Spanish California, where they could find nothing but bull beef; neither bread, butter, cheese, or vegetables could be procured. As late as 1834 Monterey was supplied with butter and cheese from the Russian settlement at Bodega. PRIMITIVE THRESHING SCENE. When the crops were ripe, they were cut with a sickle, or any other convenient weapon, and then it became necessary to thresh them. Now for the modus operandi. The floor of the corral into which it was customary to drive the horses and cattle in order to lasso them, from constant use had become hardened. Into this inclosure the grain would be piled, and upon it the manatha, or band of mares, would be turned loose to tramp out the grain. The wildest horses would be turned adrift upon the pile of straw, when would ensue a scene of the wildest confusion; the excited animals being driven, amidst the yelling of the vaqueros and the cracking of whips, here, there, and everywhere, around, across, and lengthwise, until the whole was trampled, leaving naught but the grain and chaff. The most difficult part of the operation, however, was the separating of the grain from the chaff. Owing to the length of the dry season, there was no urgent haste to effect this; therefore when the wind was high enough, the Indians, who soon fell into the ways of the white pioneers, more especially where they were paid in kind and kindness, would toss the trampled mass into the air with large wooden forks, cut from the adjacent oaks, and the wind carried away the lighter chaff, leaving the heavier grain. With a favorable wind, several bushels of wheat could thus be winnowed in the course of one day. How insignificant this scene appears when contrasted with a San Joaquin farmer's outfit of a 24-horse reaper and thresher combined, which is fully described further on in this work, and represented in several engravings. GOLDEN AGE OF NATIVE CALIFORNIANS. Mr. William Halley says: From 1833 to 1850 may be set down as the golden age of the native Californians. Not till then did the settlement of the rancheros become general. The missions were breaking up, the presidios deserted, the population dispersed, and land could be had almost for the asking. Never before, and never since, did a people settle down under the blessings of more diverse advantages. The country was lovely, the climate delightful ; the valleys were filled with horses and cattle; wants were few, and no one dreaded dearth. There was meat for the pot and wine for the cup, and wild game in abundance. No one was in a hurry"Bills payable" or the state of the stocks troubled no one, and Arcadia seems to have temporarily made this her seat. .The people did not, necessarily, even have to stir the soil for a livelihood, because the abundance of their stock furnished them

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fTz.BOYNTON * MILES FROM FERN~DME. HUMBOLDT CO.CAU.

INDUSTRIES OF THE NATIVE CALIFORNIA NS. 33 with food and enough hides and tallow to procure monej foi every purpose. They had also the advantage of cheap and docile labor in the Indians, already trained to work at the missions. And had they looked in the earth for gold, they could have found it in abundance. They were exceedingly hospitable and sociable. Every guest was welcomed. The sparsity of the population made them rely on each other, and they had many occasions to bring them together. SCENES OF FESTIVITY AND GAYETY. Church

u THE RUSSIANS OCCUPY CALIFORNIA. recollect the carts used in early days by the Californians. They usually traveled from place to place on horseback; but when the family desired to visit a neighbor or go to town, the family coach was called into use. The vehicle consisted of two immense wooden wheels, cut or sawed off a log, with holes as near the center as convenient for the axle-tree, with a tongue lashed to the axle with rawhide thongs. Upon this a frame, as wide as the wheels would permit, and from seven to twelve feet in length, was placed, upon which was securely fastened one or two rawhides with the flesh side down, and a rude frame over the top, upon which to stretch an awning, with rawhide thongs woven around the sides to keep the children from tumbling out. "The female portion of the family, with the small children, would seat themselves in the cart, to which was attached a pair of the best traveling oxen on the ranch. An Indian would drive, or rather lead the oxen (for he usually walked ahead of them). In this simple, rude contrivance the family would travel twenty or thirty miles in a day with as much comfort, apparently, as people now take in riding in our modern vehicles. Sometimes several families would ride in a single cart, and visit their friends, go to town for the purpose of shopping, or to attend church, etc." SPANISH GRIST-MILL. Wheat and corn were generally ground or pounded in the common hand stone mortar; but in larger settlements horsepower was used in turning or rolling one large stone upon another, as shown in the engraving on page 35. Water-power mills for grinding flour in Upper California were but few, and of the most primitive description; but none better are to be found in the other parts of Spanish America not even in Chili where wheat abounds. These mills consist of an upright axle, to the lower end of which is fixed a horizontal water-wheel placed under the building, and to the upper end of the mill-stone; and as there is no intermediate machinery to increase the velocity, it is evident that the mill-stone can make only the same number of revolutions as the water-wheel. This makes it necessary that the wheel should be of very small diameter, otherwise no power of water thrown upon it could make it go at a rate sufficient to give the mill-stone the requisite velocity. It is therefore made of very small dimensions, and is constructed in the following manner: A set of what is called cwharas (spoons) is stuck in the periphery of the wheel which serve in place of float-boards; they are made of pieces of timber in something of the shape of spoons, the handles bein« inserted in mortises on the edge of the wheel, and the bowls of the spoons made to receive the water, which spouts on them laterally and forces the small wheel around with nearly the whole velocity of the water which impinges upon it. Of this style of mill even there were not more than three in all California as late as 1835. Russian Settlements in Sonoma. 1811. In January, 1811, Alexander Koskoff, took possession of the country about Bodega, Sonoma County, on the fragile pleas that he had been refused a supply of water at Yerba Buena, and that he had obtained, by right of purchase from the Indians, all the land lying between Point Reyes and Point Arena, and for a distance of three leagues inland. Here he remained for a while, and to Bodega gave the name of Romanzoff, calling the stream now known as Russian River, Slavianka. Although repeatedly ordered to depart by the King of Spain, who claimed all the territory north of Fuca Straits, they continued to remain for a lengthened period, possessors of the land. FIRST PIONEER SQUATTERS. And as General Vallejo remarks: "As the new-comers came without permission from the Spanish Government, they may be termed the pioneer ' squatters ' of California." So far indeed was it from the intention of the unwelcome Muscovite to move, that we find them extending their trapping expeditions along the coast, to the north and south, and for a considerable distance inland. At Fort Ross, in Sonoma County, they constructed a quadrilateral stockade, which was deemed strong enough to resist the possible attacks of Spaniards or Indians. It had within its walls quarters for the commandant, officers, and men, an arsenal, store-houses, a Greek church, surmounted with a cross and provided with a chime of bells. ONE OF THE FIRST ORCHARDS. About a mile distant from the fort there was an inclosure containing about five acres, which was inclosed by a fence about eight feet high, made of redwood slabs about two inches in thickness, these being driven into the ground, while the tops were nailed firmly to girders extending from post to post, set about ten feet apart. Within the inclosure there was an orchard, consisting of apple, prune, and cherry trees. Of these, fifty of the first and nine of the last-named, moss-grown and gray with age, still remain, while it is said that all the old stock of German prunes in California came from seed produced there. FIRST INDUSTRY NORTH OF SAN FRANCISCO. We may safely assert, that to these Russians belongs the honor of erecting the first church in California, north of the Bay of San Francisco; but this is not all; to them belongs the credit of first planting fruit, raising grain, and working in leather, wood and iron, within the limits of the same territory. With these industries in hand, there is not the remotest doubt that the Russians looked to a future permanent possession of northern California. At this time, too, they made considerable annual shipments of grain to Sitka from Fort Ross and Bodega.

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INDUSTRY AND THRIFT OF THE RUSSIANS. 35 ,., u LOCAT1 • D POBTI1 The location once cl d thej el to work to brepare their new i A Bite was, I d Eoi th< rtockade near the Bhoreof the ocean, and in uch a position as to ptotect aU their Bhipg lying in the little cove, and prevent any vessel inimical bo them from landing. Theplatofgrc lincl Linthisstocka^wasaparallelogri 280 feet wide and 312 feet long, and aining i) fc two acres, [ta angle were pla I r«3 nearly upon the cardinal points of the compass. At the north and 80Ul ,, angie there m constructed an octagonal bastion, two Btories high, and furnished with six pieces of artillery, rhese bastions were built exactly alike, and were about twenty-four feet in diameter , , The walls were formed of hewed logs, mortised together at the corners, and were about eight inches in thickness. The wA wa8 conicai shaped, having a small flag-staff at the apex. The Btockade approached these towers in such a way that onehaB 0f them was within the inelosureand the other half on the outside the entrance to them being through small doors on the inside while there wee embrasures Loth on the ms.de and outside They were thus arranged so as to protect those within from an outside enemy. All around the stockade there were embrasures suitable for the use of muskets or carronades, of which latter it is soul, several were in the fortress. RUSSIAN CHAPEL WC FORT ROSS. ( ta the northern side of the eastern angle there was erected a chapel which it is said was used by the officers of the garrison alone It was 25x31 feet in dimensions, and strongly built, the outer wall forming part of the stockade, and the round port-holes foMhe use of carronades, are peculiar looking openings in a house of worship. The entrance was on the inside of°the fort, and consisted of a rude, heavy wooden door, held upon wooden hinges. There was a vestibule about 10x25 feet in size, thus leaving the auditorium 21x25 feet From the vestibule a narrow stair-way led to a low loft, wlnle the building was surmounted with two domes, one of which was round and the other pentagonal in shape, in which it is said the Muscovites had hung a chime of bells. The roof was made of ong planks, either sawed or rove from redwood, likewise the side of the chapel in the fort. The frame-work of all the buildings was made of very lar^e heavy timbers, many of them being twelve inches square. The rafters were all great, ponderous, round pine logs, a considerable number of them being six inches in diameter. FIRST WINDMILL FOR GRINDING WHEAT. To the northward of, and near the village, situated on an eminence, was a windmill, which was the motor for driving a angle run of buhrs, and also for a stamping machine used for orindin- tan-bark. The windmill produced all the flour used m that°and the Bodega settlements, and probably a considerable amount was also sent with the annual shipment to Sitka. PIBST TANNER? KR» CED To the south of the stockade, and in a deep gulch at the M /

36 THE RUSSIANS ABANDON CALIFORNIA. THRESHING AS DONE BY RUSSIANS. Threshing was done on a floor composed of heavy puncheons, circular in shape, and elevated somewhat above the ground. Between the puncheons were interstices through which the grain fell under the floor as it was released from the head. The threshing was done in this wise: A layer of grain, in the straw, of a foot or two in thickness, was placed upon the floor. Oxen were then driven over it, hitched to a log with rows of wooden pegs inserted into it. As the log revolved, these pegs acted well the part of a flail, and the straw was expeditiously relieved of its burden of grain. It was, doubtless, no hard job to winnow the grain after it was threshed, as the wind blows a stiff breeze at that point during all the summer months. The Russians constructed a wharf at the northern side of the little cove, and graded a road down the steep ocean shore to it. Its line is still to be seen, as it passed much of the way through solid rock. This wharf was made fast to the rock on which it was constructed with long iron bolts, of which only a few that were driven into the hard surface now remain; the wharf itself is gone, hence we are unable to give its dimensions, or further details concerning it. FIRST LUMBER MADE NORTH OF SAN FRANCISCO. 1812. — These old Muscovites, doubtless, produced the first lumber with a saw ever made north of San Francisco Bay, for they had both a pit and a whip-saw, the former of which can be seen to this day. Judging from the number of stumps still standing, and the extent of territory over which they extended their logging operations, they evidently consumed large quantities of lumber. The timber was only about one mile distant from the ship-yard and landing, while the stumps of trees cut by them are still standing, and beside them from one to six shoots have sprung up, many of which have now reached a size sufficient for lumber purposes. This growth has been remarkable, and goes to show that if proper care were taken, each half century would see a new crop of redwoods, sufficiently large for all practical purposes, while ten decades would see gigantic trees. For more than a quarter of a century they continued to hold undisturbed possession of the disputed territory, and prosecuted their farming, stock-raising, hunting, trapping and ship-building enterprises, and whatever may have been the causes which led to it, there finally came a time when the Russian authorities had decided to withdraw the California colony. RUSSIANS SELL OUT TO GENERAL SUTTER. The proposition was made first by them to the government authorities at Monterey, to dispose of their interests at Bodega and Fort Ross, including their title to the land; but, as the authorities had never recognized their right or title, and did not wish to do so at that late date, they refused to purchase. Application was next made to General M. J. Vallejo, but on the same grounds he refused to purchase. They then applied to Captain John A. Sutter, a gentleman at that time residing near where Sacramento City now stands, and who had made a journey from Sitka, some years before, in one of their vessels. They persuaded Sutter into the belief that their title was good, and could be maintained ; so, after making out a full invoice of the articles they had for disposal, including all the land lying between Point Reyes and Point Mendocino, and one league inland, as well as cattle, farming and mechanical implements, also, a schooner of 180 tons burthen, some arms, a four-pound brass field-piece, etc., a price ■was decided upon, the sum being $30,000, which, however, was not paid at one time, but in cash installments of a few thousand dollars, the last payment being made through Governor Burnett, in 1849. All the stipulations of the sale having been arranged satisfactorily to both parties, the transfer was duly made, and Sutter became, as he thought, the greatest landholder in California. In 1859, Sutter disposed of his Russian claim which was a six-eighths interest in the lands mentioned above, to William Muldrew, George R. Moore and Daniel W. Welty; but they only succeeded in getting $6,000 out of one settler, and the remainder refusing to pay, the claim was dropped. EVACUATION OF FORT ROSS. Orders were sent to the settlers at Fort Ross to repair at once to San Francisco Bay, and ships were dispatched to bring them there, where whaling vessels, which were bound for the northwest whaling grounds, had been chartered to convey them to Sitka. The vessels arrived at an early hour in the day, and the orders shown to the commander, Rotscheff, who immediately caused the bells in the chapel tower to be rung, and the cannon to be discharged, this being the usual method of convocating the people at an unusual hour, or for some special purpose, so everything was suspended just there — the husbandman left his plow standing in the half -turned furrow, and unloosed his oxen, never again to yoke them, leaving them to wander at will over the fields; the mechanic dropped his planes and saws on the bench, leaving the half-smoothed board still in the vise; the tanner left his tools where he was using them, and doffed his apron to don it no more in the State of California. As soon as the population had assembled, Rotscheff arose and read the orders. Very sad and unwelcome, indeed, was this intelligence; but the edict had emanated from a source which could not be gainsaid, and the only alternative was a speedy and complete compliance, however reluctant it might be— and thus 400 people were made homeless by the fiat of a single word. Time was only given to gather up a few household effects.

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i JL \y\ ' ^■^lllllillitlinlillilliliiliiilllllilillL^ BLOCKSBURG HOTEL, GAB H.H.TICKNOR, PROPRIETOR. BLOCKSBURG, HUMBOLDT GO.CAL. . SALMON BROWNS SHEEP RANGH.TWO MILES FROM BRIDGEVILLE, HUMBOLDT CO. CAL.

NUMEROUS SETTLERS BEGIN TO ARRIVE. 37 Foreigners Begin to Come. THE early success of the missions advertised the attractiveness of California to tin: world. It became known not only in Mexico, but through the early adventurers and traders, in the United States. They not only traded in hides and tallow, but told the story of the mission wealth — the herds and flocks and fruits, and they told of the furs to be procured. The valleys of California were, during the early part of this century, occupied and traversed by bands of trappers in the employ of the American and foreign fur companies. The stories of their wanderings and experiences are mostly related in the form of sensational novels, whose authenticity and accuracy must be taken with a great degree of allowance. Few records concerning these fur hunters remain which arc within the reach of the historian, and the information given has been gleaned, in part, from personal interviews with those whose knowledge of the subject was gained by actual experience or by a personal acquaintance with those who belonged to the parties. In many cases their stories differ widely in regard to facts and names. We here give the date of arrival of some of the most important of the pioneers, and incidents connected with their movements. 1814.— John Gilroy arrived at Monterey on the 5th of February, 1814. His baptismal name was John Cameron; but he assumed the name of John Gilroy in consequence of certain circumstances connected with his birth. He spent most of his life around Monterey, and resided at what is called " Old Gilroy," a short distance from Gilroy, in Santa Clara County, whicji places are named from him. UPPER SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY EXPLORED. 1820.— As early as this date, Tulare, San Joaquin and Sacramento Valleys were occupied by trappers, who had wandered there while searching for the Columbia River. Captain Sutter, in 1834, while in New Mexico, heard from these California trappers, of the Sacramento Valley, which afterwards became so reputed as his home. The disputes arising in regard to the occupation of the northern part of the Pacific Coast trapping region in Oregon, led the American hunters to occupy the territory in and about the Rocky Mountains. A TOUCHING LITTLE EPISODE. 1822.— About the year 1822, an Englishman landed at Santa Cruz, known by the name of William Thompson- He is employed in the hide buisness. There is a touching little story connected with him. His native place was London. His father was a sail-maker. And there lived the familymother, brothers, sisters and all. William went to sea. They parted with him with regret and sorrow, and after a time they ceased to hear from him. Years went by and they could get no tidings of him. The family grieved; and the mother pined ei sou. But time went on. and no tidings came. By and by his brother Samuel proposed to go in search of him. Though he did not know where on the globe he might be, if still alive, yet he thought he could go to sea, and make voyages to different parts, and somewhere fall in with him, or hear of him. His plan was agreed to, and he started. Just how long he sailed, and where he went, is unknown ; but after a while he was on a ship that came into the port of Santa Cruz. Here was anchored, at that time, another ship, taking on board a cargo of hides. Samuel then came ashore and inquired for the captain of that ship. When he found him, he asked him if among his crew there was one William Thompson. The captain said he didn't know certainly whether he had a man by that name " but there the men are," said he, pointing to them at work on the beach, carrying hides, "you can go and see." Samuel went, and the very first man he met was William ! We can imagine Samuel's joy at the meeting, after so long a search ; and the joy, also, that the account of it caused in that home in London, when it reached there. But it appears, instead of Samuel getting William to go home, that they both remained on this coast. They shipped together and went down to South America, and then returned to Santa Cruz. STRANGE MEETING ON THE MERCED. 1823. — The Ashley expedition was fitted out in 1823, at St. Louis, for the fur trade.. This party entered the San Joaquin Valley, and hunted and trapped along the Merced, Stanislaus and Tuolumne Rivers. Belonging to this company was Joshua Griffith and William Hawkins, who met first at St. Louis, and afterwards hunted in the San Joaquin Valley. Years rolled on and they were widely separated, and after many vicissitudes, of wild adventure, through scenes of peril, among hostile Indians and various hair-breadth escapesstrange to say, we find them after years had passed away, in 1874, settled d/wn to quiet life, each with a family, on the Merced River, which locality seems to have impressed them as the choicest of the State. They were living there as late as 1S78. Captain Juan B. R. Cooper came to Monterey in 1823, and obtained a license to hunt otter?, as also did some others. 1824.— Santiago McKinly, a native of Scotland, arrived in Los Angeles during the year 1824. He was at that time twenty-one years of age. He became a merchant, and his name appears on a list of foreigners resident in Los Angeles in 1836, now on file in the city archives. He afterwards went to Monterey, and was reported dead some years ago. From Scotland came David Spence, in 1824, with the view of establishing a packing house in Monterey for a Lima firm.

38 HUNTERS AND TRAPPERS OF TH^SAN_JOAQI^ SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY. 1825.-In the spring of this year, Jedediah Smith, with a party of forty trappers and Indians, started from the headquarters on Green River, traveling westward, crossed the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and in July entered the Upper San Joaquin Valley The country from the Tulare to the American Fork of the Sacramento River was traversed in trapping for Beaver They found at the fork another party of American trappers encamped, and located their own rendezvous near the present town of Folsom. In October, Smith, leaving the remainder of the party at the camp, returned to the company's headquarters on Green River. 1826 -In May, 1826, Smith again set out for the new trapping region taking a route further south than on the first trip, but when in the Mohave settlement on the Colorado, all the party, except Smith, Galbraith, and Turner, were killed by Indians. These three escaped to San Gabriel Mission, and December 26, 1826, were arrested as spies or filibusters. They were taken to the presidio at San Diego, where they were detained until the following certificate from Americans then in San Francisco was presented: — "We, the undersigned, having been requested by Captain Jedediah S. Smith to state our opinion regarding his entering the Province of California, do not hesitate to say that we have no doubt but that he was compelled to, for want of provisions and water, having entered so far into the barren country that lies between the latitudes of forty-two and forty-three west that he found it impossible to return by the route he came, as his horses had most of them perished for want of food and water; he was therefore under the necessity of pushing forward to California— it being the nearest place where he could procure supplies to enable him to return. " In testimony whereof we have hereunto set our hand and seal, this 20th day of December, 1826. William G. Dana, Captain of schooner Waverly. William H. Cunningham, Captain of ship Courier. William Henderson, Captain of brig Olive Branch. James Scott. Thomas M. Robins, Mate of schooner Waverly. Thomas Shaw, Supercargo of ship Courier." Smith was liberated, and during the summer of 1827 with his party left the San Joaquin Valley, journeying toward the Columbia River. John J. Read, when but a mere lad, was taken by his uncle, who was a sailor, on a voyage to Mexico, from thence to California, sailing from Acapulco, arriving in the State in the year 1826, just after attaining his twenty-first year, and, after staying a short time in Los Angeles, proceeded northward until he reached Saucelito, and there took up his residence. He next, in 1827, removed to Sonoma County, and tilled a portion of the Cotate Rancho, at the same time making application for the grant ; but he was not permitted to remain, for the Indians drove him oil", destroyed his crop, and buried his implements. FIRST FERRY-BOAT ON THE BAY. Mr Read came to Saucelito to reside in 1832, erecting, for his accommodation, near the old torm a wooden shanty from whence he plied a small boat regularly to the opposite shore of Yerba Buena, and established the first ferry on the Bay ol San Francisco Mr. Read married, October 13, 1836, at the Church of the Mission Dolores, the Seiiorita Hilarita, the youngest daughter of Don Jose Antonio Sanchez, Commander of the Presidio at San Francisco. PIONEER MERCHANT AT LOS ANGELES. 1827 -John Temple, who may justly rank as the pioneer merchant of Los Angeles, was a native of Reading, Mass., and for several years prior to his advent on this coast, resided at the Sandwich Islands. He came to Los Angeles about the year 1827, formed a partnership with George Rice, and opened the first' store of general merchandise ever established in the pueblo. ANOTHER PIONEER. 1828.— Abel Stearns, a native of Salem, Mass., spent considerable time in Mexico, and settled in Los Angeles as a merchant in the year 1828. He married Dona Arcadia, daughter of Don Juan Bandini. He obtained large grants of land throughout the territory, and accumulated much wealth. He was a member of the Constitutional Convention, 1849, and of the State Legislature, 1851; also 1861. He died at San Francisco, August 23, 1871. His widow subsequently married Col. R. S. Baker — residence, Los„Angeles. SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY VISITED. 1830.— Ewing Young,, who had trapped with parties on the upper part of the Del Norte, the eastern part of the Grand and the Colorado Rivers, pursuing the route formerly traversed by Smith, in the winter of 1829-30, entered the San Joaquin Valley and hunted on the Tulare Lake, and the adjacent streams. 1832.— During the last part of 1832, or early in 1833, Young, having again entered the San Joaquin Valley and trapped on the streams, finally arrived at the Sacramento River, about ten miles below the mouth of the American. He followed up the Sacramento to the Feather River, and from there crossed over to the coast. The coast-line was traveled till they reached the mouth of the Umpqua, where they crossed the mountains to the inland. Entering the upper portion of the Sacramento Valley, they proceeded southerly till they reached the American River. Then they followed up through the San Joaquin Valley, and passed out through the Tejon Pass in the winter of 1833-34. Besides these parties and leaders mentioned, during this period there were several trappers, or " lone traders," who explored and hunted through the valleys.

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BIOGRAPHIES OF PIONEER SETTLERS. 39 J'lKST SCHOONER BUILT. 1831.— William Wolfskill was born March -JO, 1 70s. near Richmond, Kentucky. Until the year 1831 heroami-.i through the great West as a hunter and trapper. In February of that year he reached Los Angeles with a number of others, ami here the party broke up. Aided by Friar Sanchez, then in charge of San Gabriel Mission, he, in company with Nathaniel Pryor, Richard Laughlin, Samuel Prentiss, and Ccorge Young, late of Napa County, (all Americans) built a schooner al San Pedro lor the purpose of hunting sea-otter. FIRST BILLIARD TABLES MADE. I j 832.— Joseph Pawlding was a native of Maryland, and entered California from New Mexico in the winter of 1832-33, by way of the Gila River. He afterwards traveled a good deal in both countries. He was a carpenter by trade, and made the first two billiard tables ever made in California; the first for George Rice, and the second for John Rhea. He died at Los Angeles, June 2, 1860. HUNTERS AND TRAPPERS OF 1832. About the middle of 1832 another band of trappers, under Michael Laframboise, came into San Joaquin Valley from the north, and until the next spring spent the time in trapping on the streams flowing through the great valley. The Hudson Bav Company continued sending out its employes into this region until about the year 1845. Their trappers in California belonged to the " Southern Trapping Party of the Hudson Bay Company," and were divided into smaller parties composed of Canadians and Indians with their wives. The trapping was carried on during the winter in order to secure a good class of furs. The free trappers were paid tea shillings sterling for a pr.me beaver skin, while the Indians received a moderate compensation for their services. The outfits and portions of their food were purchased from the company. HUDSON BAY COMPANY. The Hudson Bay Company employed about ninety or one hundred men in this State. The greater part of the Indians were fugitives from the missions, and were honest and peaceably inclined, from the fact that it was mamly to the, XL1Z ;ne Chief —. - - *«* ^ *»* five miles south of Stockton. About 1841 the company 0 ght of Jacob P. Leese, the building he ^ erected for a store in San Francisco, and made that then- busmess cento for "a^ts were Alexander Forbes and William G.Ray. ThT atte0r committed suicide in 1845. His death, and the scarcity of beaver and otter, caused the company to wmd up their agency and business in the territory. FIUST ENGLISH KGSTOBIAN OF CALIFORNIA. Alexander Forbes was for , long >eries of years the British I .nsulatSan Francisco, and by his genial manners, superior culture> ^ finished education, made a record which places unong the noted men of the Stat, I »an resided in Oakland; and, although seventy-five years of age, W facultieswere as strong as over. Bia memory was wonderful, and the p^ver of retention, with the vast fund of knowledge poss I has been of great service to the historian. He had the honor of being the first English historian of California, bia California," published in London in 1839, being written in Mexico four years previous to the date of its publication. He died in 1879. In 1832 came Thomas 0. Larkin from Boston, intending to manufacture flour. Mr. Larkin's home was in Monterey, and he probably did far more to bring California under the United States Hag than any other man. 1833.— James Peace, a Scotchman, came into the country in 1833, having left a ship of the Hudson Bay Company. He was of a somewhat roving disposition, and became acquainted with all the earlier pioneers from Monterey to the Sonoma District. Was with his countryman, John Gilroy, in Santa Clara County; was with Robert Liverraore, an English seaman, who settled and gave the name to the Livermore Valley in Ala meda County, and was at New Helvetia, the establishment of General Sutter. FIRST CAMPERS ON TULARE LAKE. Stephen Hall Meek, the famous hunter and trapper, who now resides on Scott Creek in Siskiyou County, spent the winter of 1833 on the shores of Tulare Lake. He is the only one of the large trapping party now living who wintered there. There is probably not now living a mountain man who has had so varied an experience and so many wild adventures, hairbreadth escapes and battles with savage animals and no less savage men, as the veteran trapper, Stephen H. Meek. He was "born in Washington County, Virginia, on the Fourth of July 1807, and is a relative of President Polk. He attended the common schools of the day when young. When scarcely twenty years of age he became imbued with that restless spirit of adventure that has since been a marked characteristic of his pfe.and left his home for the then comparatively unknown We have not space to relate his travels all over California and Oregon. In the spring of 1831 the party went up a tributary of the Yellowstone; then to Green River, and finally wintered on Snake River, where Fort Hall was afterwards built In the spring he trapped Salmon, Snake and Poin Neuf and then went to Green River rendezvous. There he hired to Capt. B. L. E. Bonneville to accompany an expedition of thirty-four men under Joseph Walker to explore the Great Salt Lake. They got too far west and finally started

40 SETTLERS ORDERED TO LEAVE CALIFORNIA. down the Mary's or Humboldt River for California, over a country entirely unknown to the trappers. They discovered Truckoc, Carson and Walker Rivers, Donner Lake and Walker'fl Pass, through which they went and pitched their camp for the winter on the shore of Tulare Lake, in December, 1833. FIRST AMERICAN RESIDENTS IN SAN FRANCISCO. 1835.— "William A. Richardson moved from Saucelito to Yerba Buena (San Francisco), opened a store, and began trading in hides and tallow in the summer of 1835. 1836J— Jaco"b P. Leese, for a number of years a resident of Loa Angeles, in July, 1836, built a store in Yerba Buena. He had previously met many obstacles in obtaining a grant of land upon which to locate the building, but by the authority of Governor Chico, this was finally effected. Previous to the location of Richardson and Leese, the only inhabitants of the pueblo and mission at Yerba Buena were Spaniards, Mexicans and Indians. EARLY IMMIGRATION SOCIETIES. 1837. — As early as 1837 several societies were organized in the American States to promote immigration to the Pacific Coast. During that and ensuing years, thousands of emigrants journeyed across the rocky and snowy mountains, enduring .toils and hardships indescribable, to settle in California and Oregon. Others came by the way of Mexico or Cape Horn, and soon the valleys of the northern rivers were peopled by American agriculturists ; and the southern and coast towns by American traders, who speedily monopolized the whole business of the country, and even in some communities formed the numerical strength of the white population. The Mexican Congress, feeling that California was about to slip from their country as Texas had done before, passed laws against the intrusion of foreigners ; but there was no power in the State competent to put these edicts into execution. We have mentioned a few of the early pioneers so as to give an idea of the extent and kind of settlers up to about 1840, at which time numerous companies of settlers arrived, and we shall now only mention those of the most importance, and who took an active part in political affairs. FIRST SAW-MILL ERECTED. 1833. — Isaac Graham came from Hardin County, Kentucky, to California in 1833. He settled near Monterey, and his name is intimately associated with Santa Cruz and vicinity. It is said that he erected on the San Lorenzo, somewhere in the neighboi*hood of where the powder works now are, the first saw-mill in California. Early in life he went to New Mexico, and Benjamin D. Wilson met him at Taos. Mr. Wilson has described him as being at that time a very disreputable character. He also says that Graham left a family in Tennessee, being obliged to flee that State to escape the consequences of some offense he had committed. He reached Los Angeles in company with Henry Naile about 1835, and remained there until the following year, when he removed to "Natividad," Monterey County, and (according to Mr. Wilson) -established a small distillery in a tide hut which ■ soon became a nuisance owing to the disreputable character of those who frequented it." \ Graham was a brave and adventurous man, a thorough frontiersman, at home with his rifle in his hand, and this had become known to the native officials in Monterey. When, in 1836, Juan B. Alvarado, a subordinate customs officer, was plotting revolution and contemplated the expulsion of Governor Guiterrez, he came to Graham and sought his assistance, and that of the foreigners who acted with him in the matter. INDEPENDENCE OF MEXICO CONTEMPLATED. On condition that all connection with Mexico should be severed, and that California should become independent, the assistance of Graham and others was promised, and in due time it was rendered. And by means of it Guiterrez was sent away, and Alvarado and his party soon became masters of the situation. Now was the time for the fulfillment of the promise of independence of Mexico, but Mexico, instead of punishing Alvarado, proposes to confirm him in his usurped authority. Alvarado, pleased and flattered by this, quickly breaks his promise to Graham, but in so doing, he feels a wholesome fear of those rifles, by the assistance of which he had himself gained his promotion. His first care seems to have been to disable that little force of foreigners, and to put it out of their power to punish his breach of faith. GENERAL ARREST OF FOREIGNERS. 1840. — Orders are sent out seeretly to all the Alcaldes in this part of the country simultaneously, on a certain night to arrest foreigners and bring them to Monterey. Jose Castro himself heads the party for the arrest of Graham. It was on the morning of the 7th of April, 1840, before light, that the party reached Graham's dwelling. They broke in the doors and shattered the windows, firing at the inmates as they saw them rising from their beds. One of the assailants thinking to make sure of Graham himself, discharged a pair of pistols aimed at his heart, the muzzles touching his cloak, which he had hastily thrown over his shoulders. This assassin was amazingly surprised afterwards on seeing Graham alive, and he could not account for it till he examined his holsters, then he found the reason. There, sure enough, were the balls in the holsters ! The pistols had been badly loaded, and that it was that saved Isaac Graham from instant death.

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CAPTURE AND IMPRISONMENT OF SETTLERS. 41 H„ ,;i however hurried to Monterey and placed in confinement, a also re other foreigners,! i »^>[ What. followed i h I bold in a memorial which these Bame prison.-.-, afterward addre ed to the Government of the [toted Itab a I tag that Mc u b required to restore their propertj , and compensate them for their injuries and lost time. We quote from an unpublished manuscript, which Rev.S. H. Willey obtained in Mfontereyin L849, and furnished for publication in Elliott's History of Monterey. APPEAL TO Till. UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT. Montebey, November, 1842. To his Excdlmoy, John Tyler, President of the United States: .. On the morning of the seventh of April, one thousand eight hundred and forty, we, your petitioners, citizens of the United States of North America, and many more of our countrymen, together with several of H. B. M. subjects, engaged in business in Monterey and its vicinity, were, without any just cause or provocation, most illegally seized and taken from our lawful occupation, (many being married to natives of the country), and incarcerated in a loathsome prison in Monterey. The number was subsequently increased by the arrival of others for the space Of some ten or twelve days. No warrant or civil process was either read or shown to them (at the time of their seizure) nor has the Government of California conceded to this present day in any official manner, why or wherefore that our persons were thus seized, our property taken from us, what crime we had committed, and why transported like so many criminals to a province in Mexico. "The perpetrators of this most outrageous action against the rights and privileges allowed to American citizens (according to treaty) were principally officers and soldiers appertaining to this Government and acting by authority and command (as the undersigns have heard and firmly believe), of his Excellency, Don Juan Bautista Alvarado. Governor of tne two Calif or mas. . „ , •< Some of us were marched on foot to prison, some forced to goon their own animals, and, on their arrival at the prison door, said animals and equipments taken from them, including what was found in their pockets, and with menacing, thrust intoprison. The room in which we were confined, being about twenty feet square, without being floored, became very damp and offensive, thereby endangering our health, at times. One had to stand while another slept, and during the first three days not a mouthful of food found or offered us by our oppressors, but living on the chanty of them that pitied us. -To our countryman, Mr. Thomas O. Larkin, we are bound ■ in conscience to acknowledge that he assisted us not only m * food but in what other necessaries we at the time stood m need of and what was allowed to be introduced; some of us were taken out of prison from time to time and released by the intercession of friends or through sickness. ,.,.,„ -MINKD BY THE AOT1 were separately called upon and , theauthoi ities of Monterey, he ive of the country who himself frequently n Is in his Upationonetointerpre1 foi him), there being time men fat more equivalent for the purpose than he but they were not permitted; the above-mentioned eighl were, after examination, taken to another apartmenl and there manacled to an iron bar during their imprisonment in this port. After fifteen days confinement, we were sent on board of a vessel bearing the Mexican flag, every six men being shackle.! to an iron bar, and in that condition put into the hold of said vessel and taken to Santa Barbara, a sea-port of this province, and there again imprisoned in company with the mate of an American vessel, recently arrived from Boston, in the United States, (and part of the crew) said vessel being sold to a Mexican, resident in this territory, without, as before mentioned, any just or legal cause being assigned, why or wherefore. "On arriving at Santa Barbara, we were landed and taken some distance; three of us in irons were put into an ox-cart, the remainder on foot; among the latter some were chained in pairs, in consequence reached the prison with much difficulty. Here we were put into a room without light or means of air entering only through a small hole in the roof. For the first twenty-four hours we were not allowed food or water, although we had been some time walking in a warm sun. One of the prisoners became so completely prostrated, that for some time he could not speak, nor swallow when water was brought to him. and would have expired but for the exertions of a Doctor Den an Irish gentleman living in the town who, with much difficulty, obtained admittance to the sufferer. By his influence and some Americans in the place, food and water were at last sent us. « In Santa Barbara our number was increased by the addition of more of our countrymen; some of those brought from Monterey were discharged and received passports to return; the remainder were marched to the beach, again put in the hold of a vessel (in irons), and in this manner taken to the port of San Bias, landed, and from thence, in the midsummer of a tropical climate, marched on foot sixty miles to the city of Tepic and there imprisoned. Some time after our arrival we were discharged by the Mexican Governor, and in the space of four hundred and fifty-five days from the commencement of our imprisonment, we again returned to Monterey. From the day we were taken up until our return we had no opportunity to take care of our property; we were not even allowed, when ordered on board in Monterey, to send for a single garment of clothing, nor permitted to carry any into the prison, but such as we had on; and not once during our said imprisonment in Monterey, although in a filthy and emaciated condition, permitted to shave or wash ourselves.

SETTLKRS RELEASED AND INDEMNIFIED. "When in prison, in the hold of the vessel, and on our march, we were frequently threatened, prieked and struefc with swords by the subaltern officers of the Mesiean Governruent. SUFFERINGS OF THE PRISONERS. ■< Our sufferings in prison, on board ship, and when drove on foot in a warm sun, then ordered to sleep out at night in the dew, after being exhausted by the heat and dust, surpass our power of description, and none but those who were with us can realize or form a just conception of our distressed situation. "For many weeks we were fed in a manner different from the common mode, kept in a filthy and disgusting condition, which, combined with the unhealthy state of the country where we were taken to, has caused death to some, and rendered unhealthy for life, others of our companions. * " Since our return to California from our confinement in Mexico, Captains Forest and Aulick have visited this port at different periods, in command of United States vessels. Each of those gentlemen took up the subject of our claims and illtreatment, and, as we believe, received fair promise from the Governor of the province; but the stay of those officers at Monterey having been limited to a few days only, was entirely too short to effect any good. The Governor's promise, orally, made by a deputy to Captain Aulick, on the eve of his departure, so far from being complied with or adhered to, was, as we have, reason to believe, abrogated by his orders to Alcaldes, not to listen to the complaints of Americans, i. e., citizens of the United States. * * * •' We, the undersigned, citizens of the United States, aforesaid, were among the prisoners, some of us to the last day, and have never given provocation to the Mexican Government for such cruel treatment, nor do we know of any given by our companions, and respectfully submit to your notice, the foregoing statement of facts, in hopes that through your means, this affair will be fully represented, so that the Government of the United States will take prompt measures to secure to us indemnity for the past, and security for the future, according to the rights and privileges guaranteed to us by treaty, existing between our Government and Mexico. " Isaac Graham, William Barton, "William Chard, Alvin Wilson, "Joseph L. Majors, " Charles Brown, " William Hance, " Monterey, Upper California, the 9th of November, 1842." Two years later these persons were returned to California, the -charges not having been proven ; and Mexico was obliged to .pay them a heavy idemnity to avoid serious complication with the American Government. All these died several years ago. It appears that after Alvarado, Castro and company, had got their dreaded company of foreigners in confinement on board a vessel ready to sail to Mexico, seven citizens of note of Charles H. Cooper, Ambrose Z. Tomilson, Henry Naile. California, signed and issued the following proclamation, which is a curiosity in itself and illustrative of the men and the times: — „,«„ a specimen proclamation. « Proclamations by the Undersigned. Eternal Glory to the Illustrious Champion and Liberator of the Department of Alta California, Don Jose Castro, the Guardian of Order, and the Supporter of our Superior Government. « Felloiv-Citizens and Friend* : To-day, the eighth of May, of the present year of 1840, has been and will be eternally glorious to all the inhabitants of this soil, in contemplating the Glorious expedition of our fellow-countryman, Don Jose Castro, who goes to present himself before the Superior Government of the Mexican nation, carrying with him a number of suspicious Americans, who under the mask of deceit, and filled with ambition, were warping us in a web of misfortune; plunging us into the greatest confusion and danger; desiring to terminate the life of our Governor and all his subalterns; and, finally, to drive us from our asylums; from our country: from our pleasures, and from our hearths. "The bark which carries this valorous hero on his grand commission goes filled with laurels and crowned with triumphs, ploughing the vaves and publishing in distinct voices to the passing billows the loud vivas and rejoicings which will resound to the remotest bounds of the universe. Yes, fellow- citizens and friends, again we say, that this glorious Chief should have a place in the innermost recesses of our hearts, and in the name of all the inhabitants, make known the great rejoicings with which we are filled, giving, at the same time, to our Superior Government the present proclamation, which we make for said worthy Chief; and that our Governor may remain satisfied, that if he (Castro) has embarked for the interior of the Republic, there still remain under his (the Governor's) orders all his fellow-countrymen, companions in arms, etc., etc." DISAPPOINTMENT AND HUMILIATION. But a great disappointment awaited this heralded hero on his arrival in Mexico. We find the description of it in another manuscript, as follows : — " Commandant Castro and his three or four official friends rode into Tepic in triumph, as they thought, and inquired for the house of the Governor. On their arrival at his Excellency's they were refused admittance and ordered to go to prison, which one of them said could not be compared in comfort to the meanest jail or hole in all California. Here they had time to reflect on their scandalous conduct to so many human beings. Castro was then ordered to the City of Mexico and tried for his life, Mr. Packenham, the English Minister, having every hope of his being sent a prisoner for life to the prison of San Juan de Uloa in Vera Cruz. The culprit himself afterwards confessed that such would have been his fate had Mr. Ellis, the American Minister, exerted himself equally with Packenham.

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FIRST SETTLERS IN SAX JOAQUIN VALLEY. 43 "After an absence of two years awl expending eight or ten thousand dollars, he returned to California ;i wiser and better man than when he left it, and never was afterwards known to raise a hand or voice against a foreigner. His officers and soldiers returned to California in tbe best manner they could, leaving their country as jailers and returning prisonei FIRST SETTLERS IN SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY. 1885. — Dr. John Marsh arrived at the foot of Mount Diablo and purchased the "Ranchos loa Meganos" in 1837, of three square leagues of land, and settled upon it in the same year, and occupied it afterwards until his death, which occurred in 185G. The doctor lived in a small adobe house near where he afterwards constructed what is known as the "Marsh Stone House." So that the doctor was the first horn native American citizen who ever resided permanently in that section. It would be difficult now to conceive of a more lonely and inhospitable place to live. Until about 1847, Dr. Marsh had no American neighbors nearer than within about forty miles, and dwellings on adjoining Spanish ranches were from twelve to fifteen miles distant. All early emigrant parties made Dr. Marsh's ranch an objective point, as it was so easily sighted, being at the foot of Mount Diablo. All parties met with a cordial reception. Sutter's Fort and Marsh's Ranch were the two prominent settlements in northern California at that date. 1 » . Marsh was an educated man and an able writer, as will be seen from the following letter. DR. JOHN MARSH TO HON. LEWIS CASS.* FarmofPulihms, near St. Francs..), i Upper California, 1844. J •• Hon LEWIS ( Iass— Dear flttr: You will probably be somewhat surprised to receive a letter from an individual from whom you have not heard, or even thought of, for nearly twenty years- yet although the lapse of time has wrought many changes, both in men and things, the personal identity of us both has probably been left. You will, I think, remember a youth whom you met at Green Bay in 1825, who, having left Ins Alma Mater, had spent a year or two in the - far, far, West,' and was then returning to his New England home, and whom you induced to turn his face again toward the setting sun; that youth who, but for your influence, would probably now have Ln administering pills in some quiet Yankee village, is now a .ray-haired man, breeding cattle and cultivating grape-vines on the shoves of the Pacific. Your benevolence prompted you to take an interest in the fortunes of that youth and * is therefore presumed you may not be unwilling to hear from him u j ],.lr ,]„. United - I ':::>- and came to New Mexico. and th. ersing the I Chihuahua and Sonora I the Rio Colorado at its junction with the Gila, near the tide-water of Gulph, and entered this territory at its southern part. Any more direct route was at that time unknown and m idered impracticable. FIRST SAN JOAQ1 IN RANI M " I have now been more than ten years in this country, and have travele.l over all the inhabited and most of the uninhabited parts of it. I have resided eight years where 1 now live, near the Bay of San Francisco, and at the point where the rivers Sacramento and San Joaquin unite together to meet the tide-water of the bay, about forty miles from the ocean. I possess at this place a farm about ten miles by twelve in extent one side of which borders on the river, which is navigable to this point for sea-going vessels. I have at last found the far West, and intend to end my ramblings here. again. liBhediu Elliott's History of Contra Costa County. View of San Joaquin Riveb by Moonlight. " The Government of the United States, in encouraging and facilitating immigration to Oregon is, in fact, helping to people California° It is like the British Government sending settlers to Canada. The emigrants are well aware of the vast superiority of California, both in soil and climate, and I may add, facility of access. Every year shorter and better routes are being discovered, and this year the great desideratum of a good and practical road for wheel carriages has been found. Fiftythree wagons, with that mumber of families, have arrived safely, and more than a month earlier than any previous company. The American Government encourages immigration to Oregon by giving gratuitously some five or six hundred acres of land to eacVi faudly of actual settlers. California, too, gives lands, not by acres, but by leagues, and has some thousands of leagues more to give to anybody who will occupy them. Never in any instance has less than one league been given to any individual

44 AN EARLY DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY. and fche wide world from which to select from all the unoccupied lands iu the territory. While Colonel Almonte, the Mexican Minister to Washington, is publishing his proclamations in the American newspapers forbidding people to immigrate to California, and telling them that no lands will be given them, the actual Government here is doing just the contrary. In fact they care about as much for the Government of Mexico as for that of Japan. »*♦**** EARLY IMPRESSIONS OF CLIMATE. " The climate of California is remarkably different from that of the United States. The great distinguishing difference is its regularity and uniformity. From May to October the wind is invariably from the northwest, and during this time it never rains, and the sky is brilliantly clear and serene. The weather during this time is temperate, and rarely oppressively warm. The nights are always agreeably cool, and many of the inhabitants sleep in the open air the whole year round. From October to May the southeast wind frequently blows, and is always accompanied by rain. Snow never falls excepting in the mountains. Frost is rare except in December or January. A proof of the mildness of the winter this moment presents itself in the shape of a humming-bird, which I just saw from the open window, and this is in latitude 38° on the first day of February. Wheat is sown from October until March, and maize from March until July. As respects human health and comfort, the climate is imcomparably better than that of any part of the United States. It is much the most healthy country I have ever seen or have any knowledge of. There is no disease whatever that can be attributed to the influence of the climate. " The face of the country differs as much from the United States as the climate. The whole territory is traversed by ranges of mountains, which run parallel to each other and to the coast. The highestpoints may be about 6,000 f e et above the sea, in most places much lower, and in many parts they dwindle to low hills. They are everywhere covered with grass and vegetation, and many of the valleys and northern declivities abound with the finest timber trees. Between these ranges of mountains are level valleys, or rather plains of every width, from five miles to fifty. The magnificent valley through which flows the rivers San Joaquin and Sacramento is 500 miles long with an average of widtn of forty or fifty. It is intersected laterally by many smaller rivers, abounding with salmon. The only inhabitants of this valley, which is capable of supporting a nation, are about 150 Americans and a few Indians. No published maps that I have seen give any correct idea of the country, excepting the outline of the coast. SAN FBANCISCO BAY DESCRIBED. "The Bay of San Francisco is considered by nautical men as one of the finest harbors in the world. It consists of two principal arms, diverging from the entrance in nearly opposite directions, and each about fifty miles long, with an average width of eight -or ten. It is perfectly sheltered from every wind, has great depth of water, is easily accessible at all times, and space enough for half the ships in the world. The entrance is less than a mile wide, and could be easily fortified so as to make it entirely inpregnable. The vicinity abounds in the finest timber for ship- building, and in fact everything necessary to make it a great naval and commercial depot. If it were in the hands of a nation who knew how to make use of it, its influence would soon be felt on all the western coast of America, and probably through the whole Pacific. * * * "The agricultural capabilities of California are but very imperfectly developed. The whole of it is remarkably adapted to the culture of the vine. Wine and brandy of excellent quality are made in considerable quantities. Olives, figs and almonds grow well. Apples, pears and peaches are abundant, and in the southern part, oranges. Cotton is beginning to be cultivated, and succeeds well. It is the finest country for wheat I have ever seen. Fifty for one is an average crop, with very imperfect cultivation. One hundred fold is not uncommon, and even 150 has been produced. Maize produces tolerably well but not equal to some parts of the United States. Hemp, flax and tobacco have been cultivated on a small scale, and succeed well. The raising of cattle is the principal pursuit of the inhabitants, and the most profitable. PIONEERS ESTIMATE ON CALIFORNIA. The foreign commerce of Upper California employs from ten to fifteen sail of vessels, mostly large ships. Somewhat more than half of these are American, and belong exclusively to the port of Boston. The others are English, French, Russian, Mexican, Peruvian and Hawaiian. The French from their islands in the Pacific and the Russians from Kamtschatka, and their establishments on the northwest coast, resort here for provisions and live-stock. The exports consist of hides and tallow, cows, lard, wheat, soap, timber and furs. There are slaughtered annually about 100,000 head of cattle, worth $800,000. The whole value of the exports annually amounts to about $1,000,000. The largest item of imports is American cotton goods. The duties on imports are enormously high, amounting on the most important articles to 150 per cent, on the original cost, and in many instances to 400 or 500. Thus, as in most Spanish countries, a high bounty is paid to encourage smuggling. Whale ships visit St. Francisco annually in considerable numbers for refreshments, and fail to profit by the facilities for illicit commerce. CALIFORNIA WILL BE A STATE. "California, although nominally belonging to Mexico, 1844, is about as independent of it as Texas, and must erelong share the same fate. Since my residence here, no lass than four Mexican Governors have been driven from the country by force of

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HABITS AND LIFE OF THE ABORIGINES. 40 arms. The last of these, Micheltorena, with about 100 of hi> soldiers and 100 employ^, were driven away about a year ago. This occurred atthe time that the rest of them a expelling hie master, Saul a Ana, although nothing of this wa- i D here at the time. The new administration, therefore, with a good grace, highly approved of our conduct. In fact, thi uc cesaive administrations in Mexico have already rsln> wi» a dispo Bition to .sanction and approve of whatever we may do here, from a conscious inability to retain even a nominal dominion over the country by any other means. Upper California has been governed for the last year entirely by its own citizens Lower California is in general an uninhabited and uninhabitable desert. The scanty population it contains lives near the extremity of the < Jape, and has no connection and little intercourse with this part of the country. INDIANS IN CALIFORNIA. " I know not, since you have been so long engaged in more weighty concerns, if you take the same interest as formerly in Indian affairs, but since I have supposed your personal identity to remain, T shall -venture a few remarks on the Aborigines of California. In stature the California Indian rather exceeds the average of the tribes east of the mountains. He is heavier limbed and stouter built. They are a hairy race, and some of thorn have beards that would do honor to a Turk. The color similar to that of the Algonquin race, or prehaps rather lighter. The visage, short and broad, with wide mouth, thick lips, short, broad nose, and extremely low forehead. In some individuals the hair -rows quite down to the eyebrows, and they may be said to have no forehead at all. Some few have that peculiar conformation of the eye so remarkable in the ( Ihinese and Tartar races, and entirely different from the common American Indian or the Polynesian; and with this unpromising set of features, some have an animated and agreeable expression of countenance. The general expression of the wild Indian has nothing of the proud and lofty bearing, or the haughtiness and ferocity so often seen east of the mountains. It is more commonly indicative of timidity and stupidity. " The men and children are absolutely and entirely naked, and the dress of the women is the least possible or conceivable remove from nudity. Their food varies with the season. In February and March they live on grass and herbage ; clover and wild pea-vine are among the best kinds of their pasturage. 1 have often seen hundreds of them gazing together in a mead0Wl like so many cattle. [Descendants of Nebuchadnezzar.— Ed.] "They are very poor hunters of the larger animals, but very skillful in making and managing nets for fish and food. They also collect in their season great quantities of the seeds of various grasses, which are particularly abundant. Acorns are another principal article of food, which are larger, more abundant, and of better quality than I have seen elsewhere. : alifornian is noi moi al from thi at of the mountains in his physical than in his moral and intellectual qualities. They a -ated, not averse to labor, a natural aptitude to learn mechanical trades, and. I believe, universally a fondness for music, and a facility in acquiring it. INDIANS OF THE MISSIONS AT I IBOB. "The Mission of St. Joseph, when in its prosperity, had 100 plough-men, and 1 have seen them all at work in one Held each with hisplough. It had also fifty weavers, twenty tanners, thirty Bhoe-makers, forty masons, twenty carpenters, ten blacksmiths, and various other mechanics. They are not nearly so much addicted to intoxication as is common to other Indians. I was for some years of the opinion that they were of an entirely different race from those east of the mountains, and they certainly have but little similarity. The only thing that caused me to think differently is that they have the same Moccasin game that is so common on the Mississippi, and what is more remarkable, they accompany it by singing precisely the same tune! The diversity of language among them is very great. It is seldom an Indian can understand another who lives fifty miles distant; within the limits of California are at least 100 dialects, apparently entirely dissimilar. Few or no white persons have taken any pains to learn them, as there are individuals in all the tribes which have communication with the settlements who i-peak Spanish. INDIANS EASILY DOMESTICATED. " The children, when caught young, are most easily domesticated and manifest a great aptitude to learn whatever is taught them; when taken into Spanish families, and treated with kindness, in a few months they learn the language and habits of their masters. When they come to maturity they show no disposition to return to the savage state. The mind of the wild Indian of whatever age, appears to be a tabula rasa, on which no impressions, except those of mere animal nature, have been made, and ready to receive any impress whatever. I remember a remark of yours some years ago, that "Indians were only grown-up children." Here we have a real race of infants. In many recent instances when a family of white people have taken a farm in the vicinity of an Indian village, in a short time they would have the whole tribe for willing serfs. They submit to flagellation with more humility than the negroes. Nothing more is necessary for their complete subjugation but kindness in the beginning, and a little welltimed severity when manifestly deserved. It is common for the white man to ask the Indian, when the latter has committed any fault, how many lashes he thinks he deserves. INDIAN SIMPLICITY. " The Indian, with a simplicity and humility almost inconceivable, replies ten or twenty, according to his opinion of the magnitude of the offense. The white man then orders another

1'i INCREASED IMMIGRATION TO CALIFORNIA. Indian to inflict the punishment, which is received without the least sign of resentment or discontent This I have myself wit.iic ied "i • could hardly have believed it. Throughout all California tin- Indians are thu principal laborers; without them the I'n in-- of the country could hardly be carried on. " I fear the unexpected length of this desultory epistle, will In- tedious to you, but I hope it will serve at least to diversify your correspondence, If I can afford you any information, or be lerviceable to you in any way, I beg you to command ine. Any communication to me can be sent through the American Minister at Mexico, or the Commanding Officer of the Squadron in the Pacific, directed to the care of T. 0. Larkin, Esq., American Consul in Monterey. I am, sir, very respectfully, " Your obedient servant, "Hon. Lewis Cass. John Marsh." [Dr. Marsh was murdered on the 24th of September, 1856. It occasioned much excitement at the time, as the Doctor was one of the oldest residents of the State. The murderers were Mexicans, who followed him as he was on the road towards 1 1 nine from Pacheco. The discovery of the horse and buggy in Martinez at early daylight, was the first knowledge of the affair. One of the murderers was arrested the next day. He was tried, but escaped from jail and eluded pursuit for ten years. He was again arrested, with his accomplice, P. Moreno, who was sentenced to State Prison for life, while the first was discharged. — Editor.] inch eased immigration. 1840. — In the first five years of the decade commencing with 1840, there began to settle in the vast Californian valleys that intrepid band of pioneers, who, having scaled the Sierra Nevada with their wagons, trains, and cattle, began the civilizing influences of progress on the Pacific Coast. Many of them had left their homes in the Atlantic and Southern States, with the avowed intention of proceeding direct to Oregon. On arrival at Fort Hall, however, they heard glowing accounts of the salubrity of the Californian climate and the fertility of its soil ; they therefore turned their heads southward, and steered for the wished-for haven. At length, after weary days of toil and anxiety, fatigued and foot-sore, the promised land was gained And what was it like ? CALIFORNIA IN A STATE OF NATURE. The valleys were an interminable grain field; mile upon mile, and acre after acre, wild oats grew in marvelous profusion, in many places to a prodigious height— one glorious green of wild waving corn— high overhead of the wayfarer on foot and shoulder-high with the equestrian ; wild flowers of every prismatic shade charmed the eye, while they vied with each other in the gorgeousness of their colors, and blended into dazzling splendor. One breath of wind and the wild emerald expanse rippled itself into space, while with the heavier breeze came a swell whose rolling waves beat against the mountain sides, and. beinohurled back, were lost in the far-away horizon; shadow pursued shadow in a long, merry chase. The air was filled with the hum of bees, the chirrup of birds and an overpowering fragrance from various plants. The hillsides, overrun as they were with a dense mass of tangled jungle, were hard to penetrate, while in some portions the deep dark gloom of the forest trees lent relief to the eye. The almost boundless range was intersected throughout with divergent trails, whereby the traveler moved from point to point, progress being, as it were, in darkness on account of the height of the oats on either side, and rendered dangerous in the valleys by the bands of untamed cattle, sprung from the stock introduced by the missions and early Spanish settlers. These found food and shelter on the plains during the night; at dawn they repaired to the higher grounds to chew the cud and bask in the sunshine. THE HARDY PIONEERS. What a life was that of the early pioneer, and how much of life was often crowded into a year, or, sometimes, even into a day of their existence ! Now, that the roads are all made, and the dim trail has been supplanted by well-beaten and muchtraveled highways, how complacently we talk and write and read of their deeds and exploits. It has been theirs to subdue the wilderness, and change it into smiling fields of bright growing grain. Toil and privations, such as we can little appreciate now, was their lot for years. Poor houses, and even no houses at all, but a simple tent, or even an Indian wickiup .sheltered them from the rigors of the storm and the inclemency of the weather. The wild beasts of the woods were their night visitors, prowling about and making night hideous with their unearthly noises, and working the nerves of women, and often, perhaps of men, up to a tension that precluded the possibility of sleep and rest. Neighbors lived many miles away, and visits were rare and highly appreciated. LAW AND ORDER PREVAILED. Law and order prevailed almost exclusively, and locks and bars to doors were then unknown, and the only thing to fear in human shape were the petty depredations by Indians. For food they had the fruit of the chase, which afforded them ample meat, but bread was sometimes a rarity, and appreciated when had as only those things are which tend most to our comfort, and which we are able to enjoy the least amount of. But they were happy in that life of freedom from the environments of society and social usage. They breathed the pure, fresh air, untainted by any odor of civilization; they ate the first fruits of the virgin soil, and grew strong and free on its strength and freedom. ARRIVAL OF CAPTAIN SUTTER. The southern portion of California was essentially Spanish and Mexican in its population, while the northern part was left to the occupation of foreigners. The Sacramento Valley was

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ARRIVAL OF PIONEER PARTIES. 47 comparatively unnoticed until aftei the ettlementof Cap John A. Sutter at New Helvetia, but following tha became the theater for grand operations and achievement Sutter's Fort was the nucleus about which congregated m all of the early emigrants, and the annexation of Califon largi ly due to the influence of that gentleman and tho b i dated with him. Ever hospitable and generous, he friend to whom the early settlers ami explorers repaired for advice ami .sustenance. L839. Captain John Augustus Sutter was born in Baden Germany, at midnight, February *JS, 1803, of Swiss parents After the completion of his education he became a Captain in fche French army, but becoming tired of the superficial nature of French society and customs, he set out for America, to find some secluded spot where he might surround himself with a home and associations more in consonance with his ideas and tastes. New York was reached in July, 1834, and from there, after a sojourn of only one month, the Captain went to the farfamed " West." From here he journeyed to New Mexico and having heard of the marvelous beauty and fertility of California, he joined a party of trappers, expecting soon to reach his destination. But the journey ended at Fort Vancouver, and Captain Sutter's only way to reach California was to go to the Sandwich Islands and from there to take a sailing ship to Monterey. After waiting a long time in Honolulu he took passage in a ship bound for Sitka. By singular good lu ck the vessel was driven into San Francisco Bay, July 2, 1839. Captain Sutter, having reached the goal of his ambition, received permission from the Mexican authorities to select a place for settlement in the Sacramento Valley. After much difficulty he finally succeeded in reaching the junction of the Sacramento and American Rivers. sutter's fort located 1840. A location was made, and Captain Sutter commenced the construction of a house. The spot was named " New Helvetia," in honor of his mother country. On account of the strength, armament and formidable appearance of the buildings, the place was called by all the early settlers, " Sutter's Fort," which name is even now the most general one. This fort was commenced in 1842 and finished in 1844. In 1841, when his grant of land was to be made, it became necessary to have a map of the tract, and he employed for that purpose Captain Jean Vioget, a seamen and Swiss by birth. The survey was made by lines of latitude and longitude. Sutter made his application under this survey of 1841, the same year the map was completed. The Mexican laws allowed only eleven leagues to be granted to any one person, but Sutter's map contained fifty leagues or more. Nevertheless he got the idea that he could hold it, and with this came the idea that he could sell it. The original claim embraced a considerable portion of Sacramento and Placer Counties, all of Sutter, the valley portion of Yuba, and a little point of Colusa: ■I. i i "i is:;:' 39.— In the early part of 1839 a comp up in St. Louis, Missouri, to cross the plains to California consisting of D. G. Johnson, Charles Klein David D. Dutton, mentioned earlier as having come to the country with I laptain Smith and William Wiggins Fearing the treachery of the Indians this little band determined to awail the departure of a party of traders in the employ of the American Fur Company, on their annual tour to the Rocky .Mountains. At Westport they were joined by Missis. Wright, Gegger, a Doctor Wiselzenius and his < iii man companion, and Peter Lassen, also two missionaries with their wives and hired man, en route for * Oregon, as well as a lot of what were termed fur trappers, bound for the mountains, the entire company consisting of twenty-seven men and two women. At Fort Hall, Klein ami Wiselzenius returned, thus reducing the number to twenty-live. liE.N. .Toii.n A. Sutter. In September, the company reached Oregon, and sojourned there during the winter of that year; but in May, 1840, a vessel arrived with missionaries from England, designing to touch at California on her return. Mr. William Wiggins, now of Monterey, the narrator of this expedition, and his three companions from Missouri, among whom was David D. Dutton, at present a resident of Vacaville, Solano County, got on board. The vessel put in at Bodega, where the Russians were. The Mexican Commandant sent a party of soldiers to prevent them from landing. At this crisis, the Russian Governor ordered the Mexican soldiers to leave or be shot down. They then retired. Here our travelers were at a stand-still, with no means of proceeding on their journey, or of finding their way out of the inhospitable country ; they therefore penned the following communication to the American Consul, then at Monterey: — Port Bodega, July "15, 1840. "To the American Consul of California — "Dear Sir: We, the undersigned citizens of the United States, being desirous to land in the country, and having been

48 FIRST SETTLEMENTS IN THE VALLEY. refused a passport, ami been opposed by the Government, we write to you, sir, for advice, and claim your protection. Being short of funds, we are not able to proceed further on the ship. We have concluded to land under the protection of the Russians; we will remain there fifteen days, or until we receive an answer from you, which we hope will be as soon as theencumstances of the case will permit. We havfrbeen refused a passport from General Vallejo. Our object is to get to the settlements, or to obtain a pass to return to our own country. Should we receive no relief, we will take up our arms and travel, consider ourselves in an enemy's country, and defend ourselves with our guns. "We subscribe ourselves, " Most respectfully, " David Dutton, Wm. Wiggins, "John Stevens, J.Wright." "Peter Lassen, pioneer party of 1841. 1841 .—May 8, aparty of thirty-six persons left Independence Missouri, bound for California. They passed near Salt Lake to Carson River, and then to the main channel of Walker's River. Near its source "they crossed the Sierras, and descended into the San Joaquin Valley. They crossed the San Joaquin River at the site of the present railroad bridge; and, reaching the ranch of Dr. Marsh, at the base of Mount Diablo, the eyes of the party were refreshed with the first signs of civilization which had greeted them from the time of leaving Fort Laramie. Of this adventurous little band who braved the hardships and dangers of a journey, then occupying months, which can now be compassed within a week, a number are still living in California, among whom may be mentioned General John Bidwell of Chico — of which he is the. honored founder — having filled high public stations which mark the esteem and confidence reposed in him by his fellow-citizens, not only of his own immediate home, but of the entire State ; Captain Charles M. Weber, one of the most prominent of the pioneer citizens of Stockton, who died in 1880; Josiah Belden, one of the oldest residents of San Jose. This party disbanded at Dr. Marsh's, and became scattered throughout the State. Many of these emigrants have played such important parts in the early history of California that a few of the principal names are appended : — Col. J. B. Bartleson, Captain of the party. Returned to Missouri. Is now dead. Gen. John Bidwell, Resides in Chico, Butte County. Col. Joseph B. Childs, Resides in St. Helena, Napa County. Josiah Belden, Resides at San Jose' and S. F. Charles M. Weber, Resided in Stockton. Died in 1880. Charles Hopper, Resides in Yountville, Napa County. Henry Huber, Resides in San Francisco. Michael C. Nye, Resides in Oregon. Green McMam'-x. Resides in Vacaville, Solano County. Benj. Kelsey and wife, Reside in Santa Barbara County Andrew Kelsey, Killed by the Indians at Clear Lake. Robert H. Thomes, Died March 26, 1878, at Tehama. Elias Barnett, Lives in Yountville, Napa County. J. P. Springer, Died at or near Santa Cruz. FIRST SETTLEMENTS IN THE VALLEY. IS4H —It is a fact that there was not a house in the Sacramento or San Joaquin Valleys in 1841, except those of Sutter and Dr. Marsh. Sutter had one adobe house and a few huts, but his fort was not completed until sometime afterwards. After the settlement of New Helvetia, the next point where a dwelling was located was about two miles northeast of the fort on the American River, in 1841. This was settled by John Sinclair for Captain Elias Grimes and Hiram Grimes, to whom Sutter afterwards sold it. It made a fine ranch and farm, and was extensively stocked. 1842.— Nicolaus Allgeier, in 1842, was placed on what is known as the town of Nicolaus, on the east bank of Feather River. The next two places of Gordon and Baca were settled in the fall of this year. Hock Farm, which subsequently became the home of Captain Sutter, was established and made his principal stock-farm, the animals ranging over that part of Sutter County lying west of Feather River, and south of the Butte Mountains. The land in the vicinity of Marysville was leased to Theodore Cordua. Cordua made a stock-farm of it to a limited extent. Marysville is located where he erected, at what is now the foot of D Street, an abode dwelling-house, a store-house or trading room, culinary department and out-houses. The walls of the dwelling were thick, and well constructed for withstanding a siege. The spot was named " New Mecklenburg " by Captain Sutter, in honor of the place of nativity of Cordua. It soon became known, however, as Cordua's Ranch. William Gordon settled on his ranch on Cache Creek, in Yolo County, in the fall of 1842. The place now known as Vacaville was settled about the same time by Manual Baca, from New Mexico. PIONEER PARTY OF 1843. . 1843. — In the fall of this year, a party arrived across the plains via Fort Boise and Pit River. They came down the west bank of the Sacramento River into what is now Colusa County, crossed the river below the mouth of Stony Creek. Major P. B. Redding, who was with this party, sketched the land about the mouth of Stony Creek, and not being entitled to receive a grant himself, gave the map to the wife of Dr. Stokes, of Monterey, who was a Mexican woman, and she obtained a grant, giving Redding two leagues, or perhaps half the grant, for his locations. This was the first grant made within the limits of Colusa County, and the first settler on the grant was a man by the name of Bryant, who built a house and raised some corn in 1846.

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PIONEERS SETTLE IN ALL PARTS OF THE STATE. \\> Wolfekill icttled ■•■•'"• "" ,',,,;i1' ' "'" "f Cache Greek, and wufch of Gordon's grant, in 18*3. General John Bidwell says-. " [n mi trip up ley, in 1843, I went a fai b the preeent town of Red Blufl I WSI in pursuitof tolen animal and was in haste to overtake a party going to Oregon, which I did, and recovered the animate. Mj partj eon i ted of Peter Lassen, James Braham, and an Indian - 1,,,,!,,, summer of L843, acorapanj arrived Erom'theStai via Oregon, where they had wintered. This party was undei fche lead of L W.Hastings, and N. Coombs, of Napa, wasone of the party. Hastingswasso well pleased with the land lying on the west bank of the Sacramento River just belo^w the present tow,, of « loluBa, that he got me to make a map of it, intending toapplj for a grant, He did not succeed, however. Some two or three of Easting's party— their names I do not now ,,.,..,,11 .Were in the habit of shooting at Indians, and had killed two or three before reaching the < iolusa village, winch was the only known point within ahout forty miles above, and thirty miles below, where horses could be watered from the river. At last the Indians became alarmed, and the tribe ahead had notice of the coming of the Oregon party. < >n attempting to approach the river at Colusa the Indians attacked them. For this they wore reported hostile, and Sutter went with about forty menmostly Indians whom ho had taught the use of fire-arms and whom he employed as hunters and trappers-and punished them severely. Many Indians were killed -mosl ly of the Willy tribe Sutter's forces crossed the river six or seven miles above Colusa on a bridge built by the Indians-the Due-Dues, I believe, -for fishing purposes. This bridge was about sixty feet wide and very long, for the river was wide but not deep. «On my return from Red Bluff in March. 1843, I made a map0f this Upper Sacramento Valley, on which most of the streams were laid down, and they have since borne the names then given them. FIRST SETTLEMENT NORTH OF SUTTER'S FORT. « Peter Lassen then selected what afterward became his grant on Deer Creek (now in Tehama County), and it was the first place selected and settled north of Sutter's grant. He started bhere m December, 1843, but camped at Sutter's Buttes (now called Marysville Buttes or Butte Mountains) till January or February 1844, before proceeding to his destination. Several 0^ pis** were examined and mapped in 1843, but little was done in this line till 1844, because those who wanted the land had not been here long enough to become citizens and be entitled to receive a grant." Knight's .rant, on the Sacramento River, was settled by himself in 1844, The settlement by Samuel Neal and David button on Butte Creek, about seven miles south of Chico, was made in 1844. About the same time Edward A. Farwell, with Thomas Fallon, settled on his grant on Chico Creek, about a ■low the present town site of Chic The same but a little later, a settlement was made on the pn - ->• pro] of Qenei ' ■•-11 •>>' William Dickey dned . anl I .„, ., i r PARTY OF 1844. L844.__Th of eleven wagons, twenty-six men,eighl women and about a dozen children. Letusgiv< the |;| . Dr. John Townsend and wife; Martin Murpbj Martin Murphy, wife and E ions James, Martin s, Pat,u.\- \v Bernard D.; Jane- Murphy, wife and one childMary F ; Bernard Murphy unfortunately killed on board the Jermy bmd in L853 ; Miss Ellen Murphy the presenl Mrs. Weber, of Stockton John M. Murphy, Daniel .Murphy. Jas. Miller, wife and four children; Allen Montgomery and wife, Captain Stevens, Mr. Hitchcock. Mrs. Peterson and family, Mat Harbin, Moses Schallenberger, John Sullivan, his sister and two brothers, Robert and Mike; John Flomboy, Joseph Foster, Oliver and Francis Marguet, Mr. Mastin, Sr., Dennis Mastin, Pat Mastin, John and Brittain Greenwood, and old Mr. Greenwood. About May 1, 1843, these intrepid pioneers started from Council Bluffs to undertake the untried journey which lay before them, little thinking of its thousand dangers and vicissitudes, hardships enough to deter the bravest. From December until March, 1844, the party encamped near Donner Lake, and while at this place the first child of white parents born in California saw the light. This was a daughter to Mr. and Mrs. Martin Murphy, a young lady who received the name of Elizabeth, and afterwards became Mrs. William P. Taffe. Martin Murphy purchased a property on the American Fork, from a man named Rufus, comprising two leagues, and there dwelt until 1850, when he disposed of it and removed to Santa Clara Valley, when he purchased the homestead on which he now resides. The golden anniversary of their wedding was celebrated on the 18th of July, 1881, with all the idat that wealth could throw around it, and the thousands of friends who paid their respects on that day loudly demonstrated the high estimation in which Martin Murphy and his family are held by the people of California, who look upon him who first broke a wagon trail across the Sierras as the avant courier of a higher civilization. TRUCKEE, THE INDIAN GUIDE. The dangers of the plains and mountains were passed, and the party reached the Humboldt River, when an Indian named Truckee presented himself and offered to guide them to California, After questioning him closely, they employed him as their guide, and as they progressed found that the statements he had made about the route were fully verified. He soon became a great favorite among them, and when they reached the lower° crossing of the Truckee River, now Wadsworth, they gave his name to the beautiful stream, so pleased were

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, - rill ever Uve,«nh*fcory, ': ,cl ' . n o, ■ » I II William Hard, -d \*%^m* ^rpar* of the year 1845 BeArst-nt *wo*as ,.„,,,,„,, b, Ti i O.Larkin.in Monterey. Hi W " * u « 1 i 7 \ andl da .0 ^ Hardy c ,, >ng other, and the, owbr* he L The vessel was «£*d in 1846, - Hed the Smt* On* »"■• « W to the s iwieh Islands to 1 pered. She returned, and was lost ' ' THE ,,,,lST GRINDSTONES. Ml. W 0. Moon settled at "Moon's Ranch," in Tehama Co y.hn L845,and with him a I hunter and Indian fighter by the d. I ^erritl They, with Peter Lassen, made a large * load of grindstones, on Stony Creek, in ColuM ,,„„„,. m 1845, and packed them on mules over bwonty milo8 to the river. They sold a few at Sutter s Fort, and peddled the rest out all round the Bay of San !FraneisCo. When 11 anoe left Sacramento it was laden to within six inches of the bop. As they proceeded from point to point the canoe 1 lighter, of course; but. at first.it seemed anything hut safe, even for inland navigation. THE CELEBRATED ALCALDE. In the year 1845 Mr. William Blackburn came to Santa CrUZ; He came over the plains from Independence, Missouri, and arrived la-re in October. He was a native of Virginia, born in 1814. He came over the country in company with Jacob R. Snyder, George McDougal and Harvey Speel. They stopped together on the Zy ante and went to making shingles. William Blackburn was a cabinet-maker by trade, and in the year 1844 worked at that business in New Orleans. Rut, men arriving in California, of course, took hold of any business that would pay. So these men seem to have been still engaged in lumbering and shingle-making when the Bear flag went up in Sonoma. When the Bear Flag Battalion came marching down towards Monterey, early in July, 1846, William Blackburn and his associates joined it. Just now. too, the United States flag went up in Monterey, and the battalion went south to see that its authority was acknowledged. In due time Blackburn returned to Santa Cruz and went into the merchandizing business, establishing himself in the old adobe building fronting on the upper plaza. Iu the year 1847 he was appointed alcalde by Governor Mason, and for a year or two dispensed justice in a way peculiarly his own, as some of the old records of "his court will -how. BLACKBURN AS ALCALDE. :,—::;::. -'--■■ — — «-°i m. fnm, livine witnesses' statements. " cds'01 l""1 / • hhe County Clerk's office of Santa The alcalde records in the oouuty ^ ,,,„,: f August 14, 1S47, show that on thatday a jury ;,;:.,: ;,.,,„ Q ». - — °* * *iw"to&oM' t0 % there to remain until Monday. th< ,16th of August (Uvo days only), and then be taken out and shot. ■■ A„g,,3t 17. Sentence carried into eflect on the 16 h ac W Blackburn, Alcalde. cordingly. Pretty summary justice that ! It should, perhaps, be stated that, according to law, Judge Blackburnought to have reported the trial of this criminal to the higher Court in Monterey, and have had the action of his Court sanctioned, before the execution For some reason he did not do this, but had the cnmmal shot, and then reported both the trial and execution to headquarters! . This did not quite suit Governor Mason's ideas of propriety, even in that lawless time, and some pretty sharp correspondence followed between the Governor and Judge Blackburn. This exact course of procedure does not seem to have been repeated ! A TOUCHING SCENE. But there was a sequence, on the 21st of August, before the Court, that is touching, indeed. Josepha Gomez and Balinda Gomez, orphan children of a murdered father and murdered mother, were brought into Court-two little girls-to be disposed of by the Court. The Court gave Balinda, eleven years old, to Jacinto Castro "to raise" until she was twenty-one years of age, unless she was sooner married; the said Jacinto Castro obligating himself to give her a good education, and three cows and calves at her marriage, or when she arrives of age. The Court gave Josepha, nine years old, to Alexander Roderiguez, with some similar provision for her education and care. But it is a sorry feeling that comes over us as we seem to see these poor little orphan girls parted there to go among strangers. It is hoped their lives have been less a grief than their childhood. SERVED HIM RIGHT. But in Court, still further, November 27, 1847, the case of A. Roderiguez vs. one C ; plaintiff sued defendant, a boy, for shearing his horse's mane and tail off. It was proved that the defendant did the shearing. An eye-witness of the trial says that when it came to the matter of the sentence. Judge Blackburn looked very grave, and his eyes twinkled a good deal, and he turned to his law

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SCENES AND A.CTS OF THE EARLY COURTS. 51 book, and examined it here and there, a if looking up author ifciea touching a very important and perp ... All at once he shut up hi bool al back in hia chair, and, speaking with a solemn tone, 3aid " I find no law in any of the statutes applicable bo thi except in the laws of Moset 'An eye for an eye and a for a tooth.' Let the prisoner be taken out in front of this office and there be iheared close." The sentence was literally carried into effect, to the greal satisfaction an

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62 ACTIVE LIFE OF EARLY PIONEER SETTLERS. row imi • • ■ ■ i llowing word I .' • 1 1 . ■ r n i • r ■" I hi v time Tin fi. i Methodi si cl formed in the latter part of February 1848, and the Rev. E. Amlium elected preacher, and Mr. II.. i,., appointed In charge of the work in San Jose. Xhe gold discover] however, drevi off the people very suddenly in ti,. latter part of the year, and public worship was practically suspended for the time. Alfred Baldwin came in L846. When a boy, living In Delaware County, New Xork, hegol very much interested in tin Pacific region through reading Lewis and Clark'sjouxii;il The desire to ee this country that was said to have no cold winter . gram upon him. Being in St. Louis in 1845, when a party was starting overland to Oregon, he embraced the opportunity and joined it. They reached their destination in tin- fall of 1845. Mr. Baldwin came to San Francisco early in 1S4G. He very soon enlisted under Purser James 11. Watmough, purser of the sloop of war Portsmouth, with others, to see that there' was no resistance bo the Bag of the United States, which had then just been raised. They were stationed at San Jose. THE SAN JOAQUIN. While they were there news came down from the Mission San Jose, that Indians from the San Joaquin neighborhood were making their usual raids and stealing all the horses they eon Id lay hands on. This was an old habit of the Indians, and frontier ranchos, like Marsh's or Livermore's, could not keep horses. The spirit of the new fiag did not propose to submit to these depredations. So, very promptly, Captain Watmough organized a party to go and look after these matters. It consisted of some twenty-five or thirty men. They went to the Indians' lurking place on the Stanislaus River, and there camped for the night. By and by, in the darkness, a band of horses came rushing on them. The Indians had stolen them from around the mission, as before remarked, and now as they thought they were driving them into their own secure retreat, they were driving them into the hands of our encamped force. The horses were secured and brought back, but the Indians themselves succeeded in getting away into the willows and thickets. Returning to San Jose, the party was ordered at once to o-0 south in a vessel named Sterling to help take care of things there, Getting a little below Monterey, they met the Vamdalia coming up with orders that they should return to Monterey, and there rit out an expedition and proceed, in force, down the coast by laud. Back to Monterey they came. Men were sent to the Sacramento Valley to get horses to mount the expedition. Mr. Baldwin, meanwhile, worked at his trade in Monterey, getting the harnesses ready for the hauling of the cannon. STRUGGLE FOB AMERICAN RULE. In the month of November, 1S46, the requisite number of horses having been obtained, they were about to be driven across the Salinas plain toward Montei-ey. But just here, Pio Pico, who had heard of this coming band of horses, confronts them with a force of Californians. Before he gets the horses, however, the men in charge of them turn them aside to a rancho in the hills, and on the next day go out to disperse the opposing California forces. The battle of the Salinas resulted, and it went very hard with our few men. It is said to have been the only battle during the struggle for American rule in California that did go hard with our forces. The record is that Captain Foster, the officer in command, was killed, and eleven of his men. But the horses were not captured. That night their faithful Indian guide, " Tom," broke through and carried the news to Monterey. The entire force there marched immediately over to the Salinas, but no enemy was any longer to be found. The horses were obtained, the expedition was gotten ready, and moved down the country. Of course in December and onward they encountered the rainy season, and the storms in the St. Inez Mountains were terrible; but they got through at last, and accomplished the object of their equipment. WORDS OF A PIONEER. Hon. Elani Brown, who resides at Lafayette, Contra Costa County, was prominent and active in aiding to establish the rule of the Americans. He was a member of the convention that formed, the Constitution at Monterey. Mr. Brown participated in the first two sessions of the Legislature. What he lacked in ability and knowledge, he in a great measure made up in industry and economy. Mr Brown tells us : "I was eighty-three years old the 10th day of last June. I labor under the same embarrassment that the hunter did who could not shoot a duck; for when he took aim at. one, another would put its head in the way. I find much less difficulty in collecting than in selecting incidents. My own and Mr Nathaniel Jones' families were the first Americans that settled within the present bounds of this, Contra Costa, County. There were no white families nearer than San Jose' Mission. I settled on my present farm in 1848, and I expect to remain on it the balance of my time on earth." * Mr. Brown disclaims any praise over the tens of thousands of others who have equally participated and aided in the great work of reclaiming the vast waste of wilderness, that seventysix years ago was almost entirely occupied by the native Indians and wild beasts, but now covered over with organized States, counties, cities, towns and farms, with all the comforts and conveniences of art and science that civilization confers. Being an eye-witness in the front line of a long march, the picture is plain. The work is large to those who have not seen *Elliott's History of Contra Costa County.

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HUNTER AND TRAPER OF HUMBOLDT CO. CAL

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BEAB FLAG WAR INAUGl RATED. the beginning and end of the whole extraordinary advance of settlement and civilization in America h >n hi L804 to 1880. i ii' i CASl PLOW L846— Elihu Anthony came to I lalifornia in 1846, from [ndiana. He stopped first in San Jose, but moved with his family to Santa Cruz in January, 1848. Mr. AnUiuiiy'- foundry made the first cast-iron plow com bructed in California. Patterns were obtained from the East in 1848, and the castings made and attach-- 1 to the propel wood-work, Previous to this they had been imported and aold at high figures The modern plow was at this time supplanting the old Mexican affair, illustrated and described elsewhere. FIRST MINING PICK. At this same foundry were made, in the spring of L848, tinfirst picks for mining purposes. As soon as the report of gold discovery was known in Santa Cruz, Anthony went to manufacturing picks for miners' use. He made seven and a half dozen. They were light and weighed only about three pounds each. Thomas Fallon, now of San Jose, took them with his family in an ox-team across the mountains to the Sutter mines, or mill to dispose of them. He sold nearly all of them at three ounces of gold each; but the last of the lot brought only two ounces each, as by this time other parties had packed in a lot from Oregon. These were some of the men who were at the head of affairs here in that stirring transition period between the two flags, the Mexican and that of the United States, and the introduction of California as a State of the American Union. This Wrings us to what is known as the Bear Flag War. FIRST WHITE WOMAN ARRIVED. Mrs. Mary A. Kelsey crossed the plains at the age of eighteen years. She left Jasper County, Missouri, with her husband, Benjamin Kelsey, in the spring of 1841. She was the only woman in that party, which consisted of thirty-three persons, of which General Bidwell and others were members, as mentioned on page 48. She and her husband remained at Sutter's Fort until 1843. They then went to Oregon and resided in Willamette Valley until 1S44. Getting dissatisfied with that locality they moved to Napa, and Kelsey was present at the capture of Sonorain 184G. In 1S51 they again went to Oregon and remained until 1855, and then again returned to California. In 1856 they pulled out for Texas, which State they reached in 1858, and remained there several years. Finally they decided that no place was like California, and returned and located near Stockton. We have now given the names of some of the leading arri\ als previous to the discovery of gold, and leading incidents in their active lives. Bear Flag War. !i -I 1846, the American settlers, many of whom had raarrii I Spanish ladies, learned that it was the intention of Q ., ral Castro, thei I rnoi of California, to take measures pulsion of the foreign element, and more especially of the Americans. Lieut, John C. Fremont of the I nited I I Topographical engineers was then camped at the north ,,„! of the Buttes being on his way to Oregon. The settlers sent a deputation to him, asking him to remain and give thi m the protection of his presence. He was afraid of a court-martial but they argued with him that if he would take back to Washington his broken Lieutenant's commission in one hand and California in the other, he would be the greatest man in the nation. The bait was a tempting one. Fremont hesitated ; 1 tut they kept alluring him nearer to the scene of action. On the 9th of June, 1846, there were some thirteen settlers in his camp at the mouth of the Feather River, when William Knight, who had arrived in the country from Missouri in 1841, and had married a Spanish lady, came and informed them that Lieutenant Arei had passed his place — now Knight's Landing — that morning, going south, with a band of horses, to be used against the Americans in California. THE SETTLERS ORGANIZE. The settlers organized a company with Ezekiel Merritt, the oldest man among them, as captain, and gave chase to Arci. They overtook him on the Cosumne River, and captured him and his horses. The Rubicon was now passed, and there was nothing to do but to go ahead. When they got back to Fremont's camp they found other settlers there, and on consultation it was determined to capture Sonoma, the headquarters of General M. G. Vallejo, the military commander of Northern California. They gathered strength as they marched along, and when they got to John Grigsby's place in Napa Valley, they numbered thirty-three men. Here the company was reorganized and addressed by Dr. Robert Semple, afterwards President of the Constitutional Convention. We give the account of the capture in General Vallejo's own words, at the Centennial exercises held at Santa Rosa, July 4, 1876. " I have now to say something of the epoch which inaugurated a new era for this country. A little before dawn on June 14. 1846, a party of hunters and trappers, with some foreign settlers, under command of Captain Merritt, Doctor Semple, and William B. Ide, surrounded my residence at Sonoma, and without firing a shot, made prisoners of myself, then commander of the northern frontier, of Lieutenant-Colonel Victor Prudon, Captain Salvador Vallejo, and Jacob P. Leese. I should here state that down to October, 1845, I had maintained at my own expense a respectable garrison at Sonoma, which often, in union with the settlers, did good service in campaigns against the Indians; but at last, tired of spending money which the

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BBAB FLAG WAR INAUGURATED. i rer refunded, I disbanded the force. i,, | who lia-1 CO li< left Sonoma, Thu to Jane, 1846, the plaza was entirelj unprot* althouj n pie© of artillery, with other arma and munition of wai The parties who unfurled the Bear H;,.. were well aware thai Sonoma was without defense, and i,,,i no time in tal ing I tntage of this fact, and carrying out bheii plani feai before,] had urgently represented to the Government of Mexico the necessity of stationing asufficient force on the frontier, else Sonoma would I"- lost, which would be equivalent to leavingthe rest of the countrj an ea \ prey to the invader \\ lint think you, my friends, were the instructions sent me in reply to my repeated demands for means to fortify the country? These instructions were that I should at once force the emigrants to recross the Sierra Nevada, and depart from the territory of the Republic, Tosay nothing of the inhumanity of these orders, their execution was physically impossible — first, because the immigrants came in autumn, when snow covered the Sierras so quickly as t<> make a return impracticable, "Under Hi'- circumstances, not only I. but Commaudante General Castro, resolved to provide the immigrants with letters of security, that they might remain temporarily in the cull ni r\ We always made a show of authority, but well convinced all (lie time that we had no power to resist the invasion which was coining upon us. With the frankness of a soldier I can assure you that the American immigrants never had cause to complain of the treatment they received at the hands of either authorities or citizens. They carried us as prisoners to Sacramento, and kept us in a calaboose for sixty days or more, until the authority of the United States made itself respected, ami the h morable and humane Commodore Stockton returned us to our hearths." FIRST MOVEMENT FOR INDEPENDENCE. On the seizure of their prisoners the revolutionists at once took steps to appoint a Captain, who was found in the person of John Grigsby, for Ezekiel Merritt wished not to retain the permanent command. A meeting was then called at the barracks, situated at the northeast corner of the plaza, under the presidency of William B. Lie, Dr. Robert Semple being Secretary . At this conference Semple urged the independence of the country, stating that having once commenced they must proceed, for to turn back was certain death. Before the dissolution of the convention, however, rumors were rite that secret emissaries were being dispatched to the Mexican rancheros, to inform them of the recent occurrences, therefore to prevent any attempt at a rescue, it was deemed best to transfer their prisoners to Sutter's Fort, where the danger of such would be less. RESOLVED TO ESTABLISH A GOVERNMENT. Before transferring their prisoners, however, a treaty, or agreement was entered into between the captives and captors, whicli will appear in the annexed document kindly furnished tuns by General Vallejo, and which have never before been given to the public. • We, the undersigned, having resolved to establish a government upon Republican principles in connection with others of our fellow-citizens, and having taken up arms to support it, we have taken three Mexican officers as prisoners; Gen. M. »!. Vallejo, Lieut. Col. Victor Prudou, and Capt. D. Salvador Vallejo; having formed and published to the world no regular plan of government, we feel it our duty to say that it is not our intention to take or injure any person who is not found in opposition to the cause, nor will we take or destroy the property of private individuals further than is necessary for our immediate support. "Ezekiel Merritt, William Fallon, " R. Semple, Samuel Kelsey." GEN. VALLEJO A PRISONER IN SUTTER'S FORT. But to proceed with our narrative of the removal of the General, his brother and Prudon to Sutter's Fort. A guard consisting of William B. Ide, as Captain, Captain Grigsby t Captain Merritt, Kit Carson, William Hargrave, and five others left Sonoma for Sutter's Fort, with their prisoners upon horses actually supplied by General Vallejo himself. We are told that on the first night after leaving Sonoma with their prisoners, the revolutionists, with singular inconsistency, encamped and went to sleep without setting sentinel or guard ; that during the night they were surrounded by a party under the command of Juan tie Padilla, who crept up stealthily and awoke one of the prisoners, telling him that there was with him close at hand a strong and well-armed force of rancheros, who, if need be, could surprise and slay the Americans before there was time for them to fly to arms, but that he, Padilla, before giving such instructions waited the orders of General Vallejo, whose rank entitled him to the command of any such demonstration. The General was cautiously aroused and the scheme divulged to him, but with a self-sacrifice which cannot be too highly commended, answered that he should go voluntarily with his guards, that he anticipated a speedy and satisfactory settlement of the whole matter, advised Padilla to return to his rancho and disperse his band, and positively refused to permit any violence to the guard, as he was convinced that such would lead to disastrous consequences, and probably involve the rancheros and their families in ruin, without accomplishing any good result. Having traveled about two-thirds of the way from Sutter's Fort, Captain Merritt and Kit Carson rode on ahead with the news of the capture of Sonoma, desiring that arrangements be

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PROGRESS OF THE HEAR FLAG WAR. 55 madi I"* thi n p ion of the pi I lie fort early in the moi aing of •) urn 1 6th. MAKING 0] THE BE On the eizure of the citadel of Sonoma, the Independents found floating from the flag-staft'-head the Bag of MJ which had e eaped notice during the bustle of the morning. It U;i . al once lowered, and they set to work to devise b banner which they Bhould claim as their own. They were as one on 1 1,, subject Of there being a star on tin; groundwork, but the}' i;i ;ed their ingenuity to have some other device for the "lone i;n " had already been appropriated b] Te So many accounts of the manufacture of this insignia have been published that we give the reader those quoted by the writer in The Pioneer: — « a piece of cotton cloth," Bays Mr. Lancy, " was obtained, and a man by the name of Todd proceeded to paint from a pot of red paint a star in the corner. Before it was finished, Eenry L, Ford, one of the party, proposed to paint on the center, Facing the star, a grizzly bear. This was unanimously agreed to, and the grizzly bear was painted accordingly. When it was done the flag was taken to the flag-staff, and hoisted ;iml,l the hurrahs of the little party, who swore to defend it with their lives." Of this matter Lieutenant Revere says: "A flag was also hoisted bearing a grizzly bear rampant, with one stripe below, and the words, ' Republic of California,' above the bear, and a single star in the union." This is the evidence of the officer who hauled down the Bear flag and replaced it with the Stars and Stripes on July 9, L846. The Western Shore Gazetteer has the following version: "On the 1Mb of dun.-. L846, this little handful of men proclaimed California a free and independent Republic, and on that day hoisted their (lag, known as the ' Bear flag ; ' this consisted of a strip of worn-out cotton domestic, furnished by Mrs. Kelley, bordered with red flannel, furnished by Mrs. John Sears, who had fled from some distant part to Sonoma for safety upon hearing that war had been thus commenced. In the center of the flag was a representation of a bear, en passant, painted with Venetian red, and in one corner was painted a star of the same color. Under the bear were inscribed the words, ' "Republic of California,' put on with common writing ink. This flag is preserved by the California Pioneer Association, and may be seen at their rooms in San Francisco. It was designed and executed by W. L. Todd." The Sonoma Democrat under the caption, " A True History of the Bear Flag," tells its story: " The rest of the revolutionary party remained in possession of the town. Among them were three young men, — Todd, Benjamin Duell, and Thomas Cowie. A few days after the capture, in a casual conversation bet ween these young men, the matter of a flag came up. They had no authority to raise the American flag, and they determined to make one. Their general idea was to imitate, without following too closely their national ensign. Mr-. W. B. Elliott had been brought to th >l Sonoma by her husband from his ranch on Mark West Creek for safety The old Elliott cabin may i this day on Mark West Creek, about Springs. From Mrs. Elliott, B injamin Duel! got a piece of new red flannel, some white domestic, needles, and thread. A piece of blue drilling was alsoobtai I. So from this material, without consultation with any one else, these three young men made the Bear flag. Cowie had been a 3addler. Duell bad also served a short time at the same trade. To form the flag, Duell and I low ie 3ewe 1 together alternate strips of red, white and blue. Todd drew in the upper corner a star, and painted on the lower a rude picture of a grizzly bear, which was not standing as has been sometimes represt nted, but was drawn with head down. The bear was afterwards adopted as the design of the great seal of the State of California On the original flag it was so rudely executed that two of those who saw it raised have told us that it looked more like a hog than a bear. Be that as it may, its meaning was plain— that the revolutionary party would, if necessary, fight their way through at all hazards. In the language of our informant, it meant that there was no back-out; they intended to fight it out. There were no halyards on the flagBtaff, which stood in front of the barracks. It was again reared, and the flag, which was soon to be replaced by that of the Republic, for the first time floated on the breeze." William Winter, Secretary of the Association of Territorial Pioneers of California, and Mr. Lancey, questioned the correctness of these dates, and entered into correspondence with all the men known to be alive, who were of that party, and others who were likely to throw any light on the subject. Among many answers received, we quote the following portion of a letter from James G. Bleak : — " St. George, Utah, 16th of April, 1878. •'To William Winter, Esq., Secretary of Association 'Territorial Pioneers of California' — "Dear Sir: Your communication of the 3d instant is placed in my hands by the widow of a departed friend— James M. Ide, son of William B.— as I have at present in my charge some of his papers. In reply to your question asking for ' the correct date' of raising the ' Bear flag ' at Sonoma, in 1846 I will quote from the writing of William B. Ide, deceased:— '"The said Bear flag (was) made of plane (plain) cotton cloth, and ornamented with the red flannel of a shirt from the back of one of the men, and christened by the ' California Republic,' in red paint letters on both sides; (it) was raised upon the standard where had floated on the breezes the Mexican flag aforetime; it was the 1 4th of June, '46. Our whole number was twenty -four, all told. The mechanism of the flag was performed by William L. Todd of Illinois. The grizzly bear was chosen as an emblem of strength and unyielding resistance.' "James G. Bleak."

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56 THE BBTTLEltS ORGANIZE THEIR FORCES. w. B mm. 1:1 m .11 I I B The garri m being no* u | m it was necessary to elecfcofficera; therefore Hear} 1. Ford was elected First Lieutenant : < Iranville P Swift, First Sergeant; and Samuel Gibson, Second Bergeant. Sentrie m n posted and a system oi military routine inati * fn the forenoon, while on parade, Lieutenant Ford addressed the company in these words:— \lv countrymen! We have taken upon ourselves a very ,,. ponsible duty We have entered into a war with the Mexican nation. We are bound to defend each other or be shot'. There's no half-way place about it. Each of you has had a voice in choosing your officers. Now they are chosen they must he "Im\ ci I ' To which the entire band responded that the authority of the officers should be supported. For point and brevity this is almost equal to the speech put in the mouths of some of his military horoes by Tacitus, the great Roman historian. CAPTAIN IDE ORGANIZES THE FORCES. The won Is of William B. Lie throw further light upon the machinery of the civil-military force: "The men were divided into two companies of ten men each. The First Artillery were busily engaged in putting the cannons in order, which were doubly charged with grape and canister. The First Rifle ( 'ompany were busied in cleaning, repairing and loading the small arms. The commander, after setting a guard and posting :i sentinel on one of the highest buildings to watch the approach of any persons who might feel a curiosity to inspect our operations, directed his leisure to the establishment of some system of finance, whereby all the defenders' families might be brought within the lines of our garrison and supported. Ten thousand pounds of flour were purchased on the credit of the ( !o\ eminent, and deposited with the garrison. And an account was opened, on terms agreed upon, for a supply of beef and a lew barrels of salt which constituted our main supplies. Whisky was contrabanded altogether. After the first round of duties was performed, as many as could be spared off guard, were called together and our situation fully explained to the men by the commanders of the garrison. Will S. Green says: "We have seen it stated by some writers, that Capt. John Grigsby was chosen to the command after the capture of Sonoma, and also that Ide was so chosen but both of them went with the prisoners to Sutter's Fort. We have talked with both Ide and Semple about the Bear Flaw War, and we are certain that Ide was not the military commander, but that it was in a civil capacity that he issued the proclamation above given. Ford, although nominally a Lieutenant, was the real military leader of the Bear Flag Part}-. He had served four years as Sergeant in the IT. S. Dragoons, and understood the drill and discipline better than those more able to direct the policy to be pursued. Ide and Semple were the leaders in that." A messenger was dispatched to San Francisco to inform Captain Montgomery, of the United States ship Portsmouth, of the action taken by them, he further stating that it was the intention of the insurgents never to lay down their arms until the independence of their adopted country had been established. A TRAGIC AND FEARFUL DEATH. Lieutenant Ford finding that the magazine was short of powder, sent two men, named Cowie and Fowler, to the Sotoyome Rancho, at Healdsburg. owned by H. D. Fitch, for a bag of rifle powder. Two miles from Santa Rosa, they were attacked and slaughtered by a party of Californians. Two others were dispatched on special duty ; they, too, were captured, but were treated better. Receiving no intelligence from either of the parties, foul play was suspected ; therefore on the morning of the 20th of June, Sergeant Gibson was ordered, with four men, to proceed to the Sotoyome Rancho, learn if possible, the whereabouts of the missing men, and procure the powder. They went as directed, secured the ammunition, but got no news of the missing men. As they were passing Santa Rosa, on their return, they were attacked at daylight by a few Californians, and turning upon their assailants, captured two of them, Bias Angelina and Barnadino Garcia, alias Threefingered Jack, and took them to Sonoma. They told of the taking and slaying of Cowie and Fowler. The story of their death is a sad one. After Cowie and Fowler had been seized by the Californians, they encamped for the night, and the following morning determined in council what should be the fate of their captives. A swarthy New Mexican named Mesa Juan Pedilla, and Three-fingered Jack, the Californian, were loudest in their denunciation of the prisoners as deserving of death ; and, unhappily, their counsels prevailed. The unfortunate young men were then led out, stripped naked, bound to a tree with a lariat, while for a time, the inhuman monsters practiced knife-throwing at their naked bodies, the victims, the while, praying to be shot. They then commenced throwing stones at them, one of which broke the jaw of Fowler. The fiend, Three-fingered Jack, then advancing, thrust the end of his riata (a rawhide rope) through the mouth, cut an incision in the throat, and then made a tie, by which the jaw wras dragged out. They next proceeded to kill them slowly with their knives. Cowie, who had fainted, had the flesh stripped from his arms and shoulders, and pieces of flesh were cut from their bodies and crammed into their mouths they finally being disemboweled. Their mutilated remains were afterwards found and buried where they fell, upon the farm now owned by George Moore, two miles north of Santa Rosa. No stone marks the grave of these pioneers, one of whom took so conspicuous a part in the event which gave to the Union the great State of California. Three-fingered Jack was killed by Captain Harry Love's | Rangers, July 27, 1853, at Pinola Pass, near the Merced River.

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PROCLAMATION FOB REPUBLICAN GOVERNMENT. Oi with the i>;ui'iit Joaquin Marietta; while Ramon Carrill hie death at the hands of the Vigilantea, betwi Lngeles and San Diego, May 21, 1864 w B. IDE1 PBOI L ' U kTO At Sonoma Capt. William B. Ide, with the consent of the garrison, issued the lull. .win',': — ",l Proclamation to aU persons and citizens of tin Di of Sonoma, reijutmtiny i It-am I" remain "I peace, and follow thevr rightful occupations witJiout fear of molestation "The commander-in-chief of the troops assembled at the fortress of Sonoma, gives his inviolable pledge to all persons in California, not found under arms, that they shall not be disturbed in their persons, their property, or soeial relations, one with another, by men under his command. " He also solemnly declares his object to be: first, to defend himself and companions inarms, who were invited to this country by a promise of lands on which to settle themselves and families; who were also promised a republican goverement; when, having arrived in < lalifornia, they were denied the privilege of buying or renting lands of their friends; who instead of being allowed to participate in, or being protected by a republican government, were oppressed by a military despotism; who were even threatened by proclamation, by the chief officers of the aforesaid despotism, with extermination, if they should not depart out of the country, leaving all their property, arms, and beasts of burden; and thus deprived of their means of flight or defense, were to be driven through deserts inhabited by hostile Indians, to certain destruction. •' To overthrow a government which has seized upon the property of the .Missions for its individual aggrandizement; which ,,,: raiaed and shamefully oppressed the laboring people of California, by enormous exactions on -nods imported into the country, is the determined purpose of the brave men who are associated under my command. « l also solemnly declare my object, in the second place, to be bo invite all peaceable and good citizens of California, who are friendly to the maintenance of good order and equal rights, and I do hereby invite them to repair to my camp at Sonoma, without delay, to assist us in establishing and perpetuating a republican government, which shall secure to all civil and religious liberty; which shall encourage virtue and literature; which shall leave unshackled by fetters agriculture, commerce, and manufactures. " I further declare that I rely upon the rectitude of ourintentions, the favor of heaven, and the bravery of those who are bound and associated with me by the principles of self-preservation, by the love of truth and the hatred of tyranny, for my hopes of success. ••I furthermore declare that 1 believe that a government to be prosperous and happy must originate with the people who tthecitizei guardians, the officers its servants, its glory its reward. " William B. [DI . . , | June iv ! ■ jl dob v.. B DDI - HISTORY. Capt. William B. Ide was born in Ohio; came overland. read jng Sutter's Fori in October, 1845. June 7. 1847, Governoi Mason appointed him land surveyor for the northern diatrici of California, and the same month he was appointed ,i„ ticeof the Peaceal Cache Creek. At anearlydayh. a grant of land which was called the Rancho Barranca Colorado, just below Red Creek, in Colusa County, as it was then organized. In 1851 he was elected County Treasurer, with an a sessment roll of $373,206. Moved with the county scat to Monroeville, at the mouth of Stony Creek, September 3, 1851; was elected County Judge of Colusa County, and practiced law, having a license Judge We died of small-pox at Monroeville, Colusa County, on Saturday, December 18, 1852, aged fifty years. «. ANECDOTE OF JUDGE IDE.* Ide was the presiding Judge and Deputy Clerk, and Huls was Associate Justice and Deputy Sheriff. The prisoner was brought in- irt U Huls, and the indictment read to him by Ide as Clerk. He was on trial for horse-stealing; the penalty at that time was death. The Judge mounted the bench and informed the prisoner of his rights, including that of having counsel -signed him for his defense. This the prisoner asked. Here was a dilemma. There was no licensed attorney, nea rer than Butte I iounty, to be had. The Court (Ide and two Asso ciate Judges held a consultation on the situation. Ide,f however, was always equal to any emergency, and he suggested that' he himself had been over at Hamilton a few clays before a, tending Judge Sherwood's « 'ourt, and had been admitted asa practicing attorney, and he did not see why he should not defend the prisoner. This was suggested to the defendant at the bar, who was delighted with the arrangement of being defended by the presiding Judge. There being no District Attorney present, it was expected that the presiding Judge would also look out for the interests of the people. With the Court thus organized, the trial becran. Ide would question the witnesses, raise his points of law on either side, and then get on the bench to help decide them, take exceptions to his own ruling, and then as Clerk make the entries. When the testimony was all in Ide addressed the jury, presenting first the side of the prosecution, and then of thedefense, winding up with a plea for mercy. Then he got on the bench aoain, and instructed the jury calmly and impartially as to the law in the case. The jury retired, and in a few moments brought in a verdict of " guilty." •Written by Will S. Green, of the Colusa Sun, for Elliott's History of Colnsa County.

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THE RAISING OF THE AMERICAN FLAG. Wi,, i ordered the ind up, .-'till he addressed him in substance as follow : " You have bad a Fair and impartial trial by a jury of "ii, | re been ably defended by counsel appointed b in Courl The jury have found yon guilty of grand larceny, the penalty of which, under the benign laws of this State, is death, ii is, therefore, the judgment of this Court that you be taken by the Sheriff to some convenient place, on the 'lay of , and then and there hanged by the neck, until you are dead, dead, -lead, and may the Lord have mercy ..ii your niil." Turning to Associate Hula, he ordered the Sheriff to take charge of the prisoner, A day or so before that set for the execution Hula went over after his prisoner, but found that he had been pardoned out by the Governor, without the officers of I olusa County knowing anything about it. ONLY FIGHT UNDER THE BEAR FLAG. 1846.— The only real tight of the war occurred on the twentyfifth of June, between a body of about eighty Californians and some twenty men under command of Lieutenant Ford. These few men were put to flight, and continued their march across the bay. Fremont arrived at Sonoma two days after the fight, still hesitating,. He wanted, so we are told by Semple and Ide, (who informed Will S. Green, of Colusa,) to occupy a position where he might reap the benefit of a victory and not suffer from defeat. After the return of the Californians across the bay, the Bear Flag Party urged Fremont to capture the ship Moscow, then lying at Saucelito, cross the bay, capture Castro, and by one bold stroke end the war. Captain Phelp, of the Moscow, was in full sympathy with the movement, and even went so far as to put a lot of provisions on a launch near enough to them to be captured by the party of revolutionists. Com. John D. Sloat took possession of Monterey, and three days afterwards the Bear Flag Party heard of it, and the Stars and Stripes took the place of the Bear at Sonoma. AMERICAN FLAG RAISED IN MONTEREY. On Saturday. July 11, 1846, came the astounding news from Monterey that Commodore Sloat had arrived there in the United States frigate Savannah, and had raised the United States flag, and had taken possession of the country in consequence of war, which had broken out between the United States and Mexico. It was understood that Commodore Sloat requested Captain Fremont to go with all possible dispatch to Monterey. The United States flag was raised in Monterey on July 7th. If the messenger started immediately, he was four days on his way to Fremont's camp. But Fremont appears to have been nine days on the way to Monterey, reaching there on Sunday, July 19th. If the question is asked, why this slowness, when speed- would be so certainly looked for, the reply must be that no answer is apparent. CAPTURE OF MONTEREY* " Concerning the capture of Monterey," says Will S. Green, " we were fortunate enough to hear the recital by Commodore Sloat himself. War was anticipated between the United States and .Mexico long before it occurred, and Commodore Jones, then in command on this coast, was instructed to take Monterey, the capital of California, as soon as he heard hostilities had commenced. As we have seen, he acted too hurriedly, and, on the instance of the American Minister, he was removed. Sloat, who succeeded, had the same instructions, and was lying at Mazatlan with a frigate and sloop-of-war anxiously watching the signs of the times. It was known that there was an arrangement with England to take possession of California, and hold it for Mexico in case of war. Admiral Seymour, of the British navy, with the line-o'-battle ship Collingwood, was also at Mazatlan waiting orders. One da}r Seymour »ot dispatches, and Sloat got none. Sloat set a watch on the Admiral's movements, and found him in close consultation with the leading Mexicans, who avoided the American commander. He guessed that hostility had commenced, and when Seymour went on board his vessel and began to make ready for departure, he felt certain of the fact; and the white sails of the Collingwood had not disappeared in the distance before the two small American vessels were under way for Monterey. Every possible inch of canvas was spread and a quick voyage was made. On arriving at Monterey a demand was made for the surrender of the place, which was complied with without the firing of a gun. In a day or so the lookout announced the approach of the Collingwood. Not knowing how the Admiral would interpret his order to take possession of Monterey, the Commodore had his two small vessels got in readiness for action. The huge Englishman sailed up between the two American vessels and dropped anchor. Sloat sent an officer on board with his compliments to the Admiral, and the latter came in person to see the Commodore. He told Sloat that he knew that he had received no official information of the existence of war, and added that no officer in the British navy would have taken the responsibility he had done. He then asked Sloat, in a sort of bantering way, what he would have done if he had come into port and found the British flag flying. «« I would have had you sink these two little ships for me," was the Commodore's reply. It was thus owing to the prompt action and courage of Commodore Sloat that we became possessed of California. WHERE FIRST AMERICAN FLAG WAS RAISED. "The soil of San Benito County claims the honor of havmg sustained the first American flag of conquest ever unfurled to a California 'breeze,' General Fremont having 'More fully given ia thelocal « Historyof Coluau County," by Elliott & Co.

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PROGRESS OF THE BEAK FLAG WAR. 59 floated the CJnited Statca Hag on the Gabilan Peak in March, 1846." Judgi Jame F. Breen one of the of the Don party, in prepai ing a hi boi . Foi a of 3an Benil " This statement has been often challeng nol beings hisfcorical fact. But] believe a careful examination o! the Fad connected with the conquest and po ession of California by the United States will justify the above a sertion." General Fremont had been ordered out of the country by ( inn-nil ( 'astro. Matter: began to Look serious, and Captain Fremont concluded to retire, at his leisure, however, but to leave nothing undone to make an available defense if attacked. He accordingly abandoned the Mission of San .Juan, and led his company, with their horses, provisions, and such munitions of w.-ir us he had, up the Bteep acclivities leading to the Gabilan, or Fremont's Peak, as it is often and more appropriately called, which overlooks the towns of llollister and San Juan. He there camped, erected a Hag-staff and unfurled the Stars and Stripes, and calmly awaited the attack. But the attack was not delivered. The spot where Captain Fremont halted his company, and raised the flag, is on the San Benito side of the division line between Monterey and San Benito Counties; and the prominent peak which rises just above the spot is to-day better known as Fremont's Peak than as the Gabilan Peak, as it was called by the Californians. And so it is that San Benito County claims, with justice, that her soil supported the first American flag of conquest that was ever unfurled to a California breeze. 1 1 is to be borne in mind that Commodore Sloat did not raise the American flag over Monterey until July 10, 1846; and that the famous " Bear Flag," which was American in sentiment if not in design, was not raised by Ide at Sonoma until June of the same year. WAR DECLARED AGAINST MEXICO. In the meantime Congress had (unknown to these parties) declared war against Mexico, and an expedition 1,600 strong, under Gen. Stephen W. Kearney, was traversing the continent in the direction of the Pacific. Simultaneously with Fremont's action in the north, Commodore Sloat seized upon Monterey; and his successor— Commodore Stockton— prepared at once for the reduction of the then principal city of Los Angeles. CAPTURE OF LOS ANGELES. With this end in view he organized a battalion of mounted riflemen, of which Fremont was appointed Major, and Gillespie Captain. This force was embarked on the sloop-of-war Cycme, and dispatched to San Diego with orders to co-operate with the Commodore in his proposed movement on the Obudad de Los Angeles. On August 1st Stockton sailed in the Congress, and on the sixth arrived at San Pedro, having taken possession of Santa Barbara on his way. He now learned that the enemy undei I ienerals I 'asti o and Andres Pico were strongly I near Los ' ith a force estimated at 1,500 men. He learned further that Major Fremont had landed at San but was unable to procure horses, and therefore could qoI join him. In the absence of Fremont's battalion, Stockton was wholbj destitute of cavalry; yet. impressed with the importance of celerity of movement, he disembarked his men. The force consisted only of from 300 to 40o marines, wholly ignorant of military drill; and their only artillery — six small guns, rudely mounted and dragged by hand. A few days after landing, a flag of truce approached over the hills, borne by commissioners from Castro. Desiring to impress these with an exaggerated idea of the strength of his force, Stockton directed his little army to march at intervals of twenty or thirty paces apart, to a position where they would be sheltered from observation. In this manner the commissioners were completely deceived, and when on their arrival they were marched up to the mouth of an immense mortar, shrouded in skins save its huge aperture, their terror and discomfiture were plainly discernible. Stockton received them with a stern and forbidding countenance, harshly demanding their mission, which they disclosed in great confusion. They bore a letter from Castro proposing a truce; each party to hold its own possessions until a general pacification should be had. This proposal Stockton rejected with contempt, and dismissed the commissioners with the assurance that only an immediate disbandment of his forces and an unconditional surrender, would shield Castro. CALIFORNIA DECLARED A U. S. TERRITORY. After some skirmishing of the two forces Castro surrendered, and the soldiers were permitted to go at large on their parole of honor — not again to bear arms against the United States. Commodore Stockton now issued a proclamation declaring California a territory of the United States; and, as all resistance had ceased, proceeded to organize a civil and military government, himself retaining the position of Commander-inchief and Governor. About this time Stockton first learned that war had been declared between the United States and Mexico; and leaving fifty men under command of Lieut. A. H. Gillespie to garrison Los Angeles, he proceeded north, to look after affairs in that quarter. Thus the whole great territory of Upper California had been subjected to American rule without bloodshed or even the firing of a gun. TREATY OF PEACE SIGNED. The treaty of peace between the United States and Mexico was signed at Guadalupe Hidalgo, February 2, 1848; ratifications were exchanged at Queretaro, May 30th, following. Under this treaty the United States assumed the Mexican debt to American subjects, and paid into the Mexican Treasury

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60 CALIFORNIA IN A TRANSITION STATE. 115,000,000 in mom ing in exchange Texas, Mew H ico, and ' pp I il n and fche rightof free navigation on. the Colorado Bivei and the Gull of California. i ,!• i | m BIl ! • .'.' BBNOB. isn; Sloat proclaimed himself Governor of I California, and acted as iilch until the L7th of August, 1846, when he was superseded by Com. R. F. Stockton, who commenced at once a vigorous campaign against the Mexicans under Flores, whom he defeated January 8 and 9, 1847- In January, 1847, Stockt-.n appointed Fremont Governor, but this of right belonged to Gen. 8. W. Kearney, who. on March 1st, assumed that office. Be was succeeded by Colonel Mason in May, and on the 15th of April, 1840, Gen. Bennett Riley was appointed Governor, and continued in office until he was succeeded by Peter H. Burnett, under the State Constitution. CALIFORNIA IN TRANSITION. The year 1846 was the crisis-year in the destiny of California. In looking hack on the events of that year, touching this country, from this distance of time, their main purpose stands out dearly revealed, as it did not when those events were transpiring. It, is plain enough now, that they were inspired from Washington. The Government of the United States had kept a careful watch of what was going on on this coast for many years. Ever after the famous explorations of Lewis and Clarke, who were sent out by President Jefferson, in 1804, our Government had kept itself thoroughly informed of everything that concerned California. The hopes of England to acquire California were also well known, and all her movements having that end in view, were carefully observed. Meanwhile the Government at Washington continued to seek all possible information concerning this country, then so remote and unexplored. Thomas O. Larkin, who came here from Massachusetts in 1832, seems to have had a fancy and a tact for gathering up facts and statistics. These he freely communicated to the Government. By this means, as well as in other ways, they were made acquainted, not only with the geography and natural resources of the country, but with its inhabitants, both the native born and the foreign. THE DONNER PARTY. The following incidents were furnished us by Superior Judge Breeu, of Hollister, one of the survivoi-sof the party: — There are many stories of human trial and suffering whose deep interest no amount of repetition can render stale, and such a story is the record of the ill-fated party of immigrants which furnished the actors in the terrible tragedy of Donner Lake. Portions of the tale have been written by many hands. They have differed widely, and many have been plainly colored for effect. The story of the Donner party, in its general features, is too well known on this coast to need repetition. Too many suffered the hardships of crossing the plains to allow the recollections of those days to die out. For years after the great rush of immigration in '49 no story was told more frequently or was listened to with more eager interest than the misfortunes of that party. The Donner party proper was formed in Sangamon County, Illinois.and was composed of ninety persons. Numerous additions were- made to the train on its way, and when it left Independence, Missouri, it numbered between 200 and 300 wagons, and was over two miles in length. The journey to Salt Lake was made without any noticeable incidents, save the extreme slowness of the march. At Fort Bridger the woes of the Donner party began. Eighty-seven persons— the survivors of the original ninety— determined to go by way of the Hastings Cut-off, instead of following the old trail. The remainder of the train clung to the old route, and reached California in safety. The cut-off was by way of Weber Cafion and was said to rejoin the old emigrant road on the Humboldt, making a saving1 of 300 miles. It proved to be in a wretched condition, and the record of the party from this time was one long series of disasters. Their oxen became exhausted — they were forced to make frequent halts; the stock of provisions ran low. Finally, in the Salt Lake Desert, the emigrants saw plainly that they would never reach the Pacific Coast without assistance. Two of their number were despatched with letters to Captain Sutter imploring aid. THE FATAL REST. At the present site of Beno, the party concluded to rest, Three or four days' time was lost. This was the fatal act, The storm-clouds were already brewing upon the mountains, only a few miles distant. The ascent was ominous. Thick and thicker grew the clouds, outstripping in threatening battalions the now eager feet of the alarmed emigrants, until at Prusser Creek, three miles below Truckee, October 28, 1846, a month earlier than usual, the storm set in, and they found themselves in six inches of newly-fallen snow. On the summit it was already from two to five feet deep. The party, in much confusion, finally reached Donner Lake in disordered fragments. Frequent and desperate attempts were made to cross the mountain tops, but at last, baffled and despairing, they returned to camp at the lake. The storm now descended in all its pitiless" fury upon the ill-fated immigrants. Its dreadful import was well understood, as laden with omens of suffering and death. With slight interruptions, the storm continued for several days. The animals were literally buried alive and frozen in the drifts. Meat was hastily prepared from their carcasses, and cabins rudely built. One cabin (Moses Schallenberger's, now a resident of San Jose), erected November, 1844-, was already standing about a quarter of a mile below the lake. This the Brecn family appropriated. Judge Breen, now of San Juan, gives his reminiscences of the

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THE TRAGIC PATE OF THE DONNER PARTY. ol Donner party in our lii itory o! San Benit i The M'hphys erected one 300 yards from the lake, marked by a large stone twelve feet high. The Grave Eamily buill thein near Donner Creek, farther down the stream, tlie three forming the apexes of a triangle, and distant L50 yard 01 mor« The Donner Brothers, with their families! hastily con b ad j a brush shed in Alder Creek Valley, nix or Beven milef Erom the lake. The Mr. Donner who had charge of one company, was an Jllinoisian, sixty years of age, a man of high respectability and abundant means. His wife was a woman of education and refinement, and much younger than he. Of course these were soon utterly destitute of food, for they could not tell where the cattle were buried, and there was no hope of game on a desert so piled with snow that nothing without wings could move. The number of those who were thus Htonn-stayed, at the very threshold of the land whose winters are one long spring, was eighty, of whom thirty were females, and several, children. Much of the time the tops of the cabins were below the snow level. FORLORN HOPE RESCUE PARTY. It was six weeks after the halt was made that a party of fifteen, including five women and two Indians, who acted as guides, set out on show-shoes to cross the mountains, and give notice to the people of the California settlements of the condition of their friends. At first the snow was so light and feathery that even in snow-shoes they sank nearly a foot at every step. On the second day they crossed the " divide," finding the snow at the summit twelve feet deep. Pushing forward with the courage of despair, they made from four to eight miles a day. Within a week they got entirely out of provisions; and three of them, succumbing to cold, weariness, and starvation, had died. Then a heavy snow-storm came on, which compelled them to lie still, buried between their blankets under the snow, for thirty-six hours. By the evening of the tenth day three more had died, and the living had been four days without food. The horrid alternative was accepted— they took the flesh from the bones of their dead, remained in camp two days to dry it, and then pushed on. On New Year's, the sixteenth day since leaving Truckee Lake, they were toiling up a steep mountain. Their feet were frozen. Every step was marked with blood. On the second of January, their food again gave out. On the 3d, they had nothing to eat but the strings of their snow-shoes. On the 4th, the Indians eloped, justly suspicious that they might be sacrificed for food. On the 5th, they shot a deer, and that day one of their number died. Soon after three others died, and every death now eked out the existence of the survivors. On the 17th, all gave out, and concluded their wanderings useless, except one. He, guided by two friendly Indians, dragged himself on till he reached Johnson's Ranch on Bear River, thi settlement on the western slope of the Sierras, when relief was enl back as soon as possible, and the remaining six Burvii u were brought in next day. It ha 1 1 n thirty-two days since i. ft Donner Lake. No tongue can tell, no pen portray, the awful suffering, the terrible and appalling -traits, as well as the noble deed o£ heroism that characterized this march of death. The eternal mountains, whose granite faces bore witness to their sufferings, are fit monuments to mark the last resting-place of this heroic party. SEVERAL RELIEF PARTIES FITTED OUT. The story that there were immigrants perishing on the other side of the snowy barrier, ran swiftly down the Sacramento Valley to New Helvetia, and Captain Sutter, at his own expense, fitted out an expedition of men and of mules ladened with provisions, to cross the mountains and relieve them. It ran on to San Francisco, and the people rallying in public meeting, raised §1,500, and with it fitted out another expedition. The naval commandant of the port fitted out still others. First of the relief parties, under Capt. J. P. Tucker, reached Truckee Lake on the 19th of February. Ten of the people in the nearest camp were dead. For four weeks those who were still alive had fed only on bullocks' hides. At Donner's camp they had but one hide remaining. The visitors, left a small supply of provisions with the twenty-nine whom they could not take with them and started back with the remainder. Four of the children they carried on their backs. Second of the relief parties, under J. F. Reed, reached Truckee Lake on the 1st of March. They immediately started back with seventeen of the sufferers; but, a heavy snow-storm overtaking them, they left all, except three of the children, on the road. The third party, under John Stark, went after those who were left on the way ; found three of them dead, and the rest sustaining life by feeding on the flesh of the dead. THE LAST SURVIVOR. Last relief party reached Donner's camp late in April, when the snows had melted so that the earth appeared in spots. The main cabin was empty, but some miles distant they found the last survivor of all lying on the cabin floor smoking his pipe. "He was ferocious in aspect, savage and repulsive in manner. His camp-kettle was over the fire and in it his meal of human flesh preparing. The stripped bones of his fellowsufferers lay around him. He refused to return with the party, and only consented when he saw there was no escape." This person was Louis Keseberg, who has been execrated as a cannibal, and whose motive in remaining behind has been ascribed to plunder. Never until now has he made any attempt to refute these stories. He says:— "For nearly two months I was alone in that dismal cabn.

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i»2 THE TRAGIC FATE OF THE DONNER PARTY. • • • i > conipani lied in my cabin, and their I i . I D eazinp at ale with tfceii ■ ■ fli ! I to sal i e them had I tried. I endured b thousand death To hav< I inch by inch ; to be dc ertedj foi al i d, ho] i •■ h ' ' ' ever before my i y< wb almo I boo much for human endurance." K,„ two months he lived there entirely alone, boiling the n, |, ofh*wdedd cnmparitori When the last relief party came they found him the sole survivoi [f he were guilty of the crimes charged to him he has cert ; 1 1 1 1 1 \ paid tin penalty. To use his own words: " Wherever I |lftVe gbne people have cried," Sfone him! stonehim!' Even little children in the streets have mocked me and thrown atone at mc as I passed, Only a man conscious of his own innocence would not have succumbed to the terrible things which have been said of mc- -would not have committed suicide Mortification, disgrace, disaster, and unheard-of misfortune haVe followed and overwhelmed me." Keseberg has lost Bcveral fortunes, and is now living in povorty ni, Brighton, Sacramento County, with two idiotic children, PATE OV DONNBll AND WIFE. When the third relief party arrived at Donner Lake, the sole survivors at Alder Creek were George Donner, the Captain of the i ipany, and his heroic wife, whose devotion to her dying husband caused her own death during the last and fearful days of waiting for the fourth relief. George Donner knew that he was dying, and urged his wife to save her life and go with her little ones with the- third relief, but she refused. Nothing was more heart-rending than her sad parting with her beloved little ones, who wound their childish arms lovingly around her neck, and besought her with mingled tears and kisses to join them. But duty prevailed over affection, and she retraced the weary distance to die with him whom she had promised to love and honor to the end. Mrs. Donner was the last to die. Her husband's body, carefully laid out and wrapped in a sheet, was found in his tent. Circumstances led to the suspicion that the survivor (Keseb'erg) had killed Mis. Donner for her flesh and her money; and when "he was threatened with hanging, and the rope tightened around his neck, he produced over five hundred dollars in gold, which probably he had appropriated from her store." STRANGE AND EVENTFUL DREAM. George Yount was the pioneer settler of Napa County. He, in the winter of 1S46, dreamed that a party of immigrants were snow-bound in the Sierra Nevadas, high up in the mountains, where the}' were suffering the most distressing privations from cold and want of food. The locality where his dream had placed those unhappy mortals, he had never visited, yet so clear was his vision that he described the sheet of water surrounded by lofty peak-, deep-covered with snow, while on every hand towering pine trees reared their heads far above the limitless waste. In his sleep he saw the hungry human beings ravenously tear the flesh from the bones of their fellow-creatures, slain to satisfy their craving appetites, in the midst of a gloomy desolation. He dreamed his dream on three successive nights, after which he related it to others, among whom were a few who had been on hunting expeditions to the Sierraa These wished for a precise description of the scene foreshadowed to him. They recognized the Truckee, now tile Donner Lake. On the strength of this recognition, Mr. Yount fitted out a search expedition, and with these men as guides, went to the place indicated; and prodigious to relate, was one of the successful relieving parties to reach the ill-fated Donner Party. Of the eighty-seven persons who reached Donner Lake, only forty-eight escaped. Of these twenty-six are known to be living In this State and in Oregon. SCENE OF THE DISASTER. The best description of the scene of the disaster was given by Edwin Bryant, who accompanied General Kearney's expedition in 1S47 to bury the remains. He says: " Near the principal cabins, I saw two bodies entire, with the exception that the abdomens had been cut open and the entrails extracted. The flesh had been either wasted by famine or evaporated by exposure to the dry atmosphere, and they presented the appearance of mummies. Strewn around the cabins were dislocated and broken skulls (in some instances sawed asunder with care for the purpose of extracting the brains), human skeletons, in short, in every variety of mutilation. A more revolting and appalling spectacle I never witnessed. The cabins were burned, the bodies buried, and now there is nothing to mark the place save the tall stumps, from ten to twenty feet in height, which surround some of the rocks on the lake's shore." TRIALS OF THE PIONEERS. It was in the few years prior to the discovery of gold that the genuine pioneers of California braved the unknown dangers of the plains and mountains, with the intention of settling in the fail- valley, of which so much was said and so little known, and building a home for themselves and their children. Many of these immigrants crossed the mountains by nearly the same route pursued by the Central Pacific Pvailroad, except that they followed down Bear River to the plains. The first settlement reached by them was that of Theodore Sicard, at Johnson's Crossing, on the Placer County side, and a few miles below Camp Far West. This settlement was made in 1844, and was the first point reached by the members of the ill-starred Donner Party in 1847. Opposite Sicard's settlement was Johnson's ranch, owned by William Johnson and Sebastian Kyser, who settled there in 1845. Johnson's Crossing was for j'ears a favorite landmark and rally in

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THE EARLY DISCOS BRY OF GOLD. 63 The Discovery of Gold. No history of the St.ai.-, or of a county in < talifornis would be complete without a record of the rush to this coaal al the time of what is so aptly termed the "gold fever." 'I'lir 6nding -.r gold at Coloma by Marshall was not thi discovery of the precious metal in the territory. But the time and circumstance connected with it, together with the existing sUi.tr of affairs, caused the rapid 'ii semination of the w People were ready and eager -for some new i citement, and this proved to be the means of satisfying the clesire. From all parts of California, th« coast oi the United States, and in fact to the Butte ' Valley, as Whili land lying between the tabled the gold wash in Brazil, Br ed: "Judging from the Butte Mountain! I believe that ther in this country, but Id., nut think there will ever be enough to p Dr. Sandels wi upon which 1m- was to take passage was soon to sail, and he could not spare tli.- time to pursue hi- search t . . any mon end ..in r.i i.v.i i i :, •. i v. -.1 '."I i>. ill whn, General I'.idw.-ll was in charge or" Hbiik FaSrtn, •m the in. .nth of March or Vpni; I»*4 a M.'-imn by the name Suiter's Mili , Wai bt G w \- Discos i red. the world, poured in vast hordes of gold-seekers. The precious metal had been found in many places. DR. SANDELS* SEARCH FOR GOLD. 1843.— In the summer of 1S43, there came to this coast from England, a very learned gentleman named Dr. Sandels. He was a Swede by birth. Soon after his arrival on tins coast, the Doctor visited Captain Sutter. The Captain always thought there must be mineral in the country, and requested Dr Sandels to 50 out into the mountains and find him a gold mine; the Doctor discouraged him by relating his experience in Mexico, and the uncertainty of mining operations, as far as his knowledge extended, in Mexico, Brazil, and other parts of South America. He advised Sutter never to think of having anything to do with the mines: that the best mine was the sod, Which was inexhaustible. However, at Sutter's solicitat.on, Dr. Sandels went up through his grant to Hock Farm, and of Pablo Gutteirez was with him, having immediate supervision of the Indian vaqueros, taking care of the stock on the plains, " breaking " wild horses, and performing other duties common to a California rancho. This Mexican had some knowledge of gold mining in Mexico, where he had lived, and after returning from the mountains on Bear River at the time mentioned, he informed General Bidwell that there was gold up there. As heretofore mentioned, Dr. Marsh describes gold and silver mines as early as 1842. SUTTER'S SAW-MILL CONSTRUCTED. 1847. Captain Sutter alwayshadan unconquerable desire for the possession of a saw-mill, by which he could himself furnish the necessary material for the construction of more improved buildings than the facilities of the country could at that time aH'ord. Around his fort in 1847, was a person named James W.

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04 MARSHALL'S DISCOVERY OF GOLD. Marshall, who bad ft natural taste for mechanical contrivances, and v.u able to construct, with the few crude tools and appliance** at hand, almost any kind o! a machine ordinarily desired. It was to iliin man that. Snttcr intrusted the erection of the Lon^contemplated and much needed saw-mill The contract was written by Mr. John Bidwell, then Captain Sutter's Secretary, nii'1 signed by the parties, Marshall started out in Nov(;riilM;i-, 1847, equipped with tools and provisions for his men. Ho reported the distance Of the selected site to be thirty miles, hut he Occupied two weeks in reaching his destination in Coloma. In the course of the winter a dam and race were made, bat when the water was let on, the tail-race was too narrow. To widen and deepen it, Marshall let in a strong current of water directly to the race, which bore a large body of mud and gravel to the foot. MARSHALL'S DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 18*8.- On the l!»th of January, 1848, Marshall observed some glittering particles in tho race, which he was curious enough to examine. He called five carpenters on the mill to Bee them; but though they talked over the possibility of its -being gold, tho vision did not inflame them. One lump weighed about seventeen grains. It was malleable, heavier than silver, and in all respects resembled gold. About 4 o'clock in the evening Marshall exhibited his find to the circle composing the mill company laborers. Their names were James W. Marshall, P. L. Wimmer, Mrs. A. Wimmer, J. Barger, Ira Willis, Sydney Willis, A. Stephens, James Brown, Ezekiah F. Persons, H. Bigler, Israel Smith, William Johnson, George Evans, C. Bennett, and William Scott, The conference resulted in a rejection of the idea that it was gold. Mrs. Wimmer tested it by boiling it in strong lye. Marshall afterwards tested it with nitric acid. It was gold, sure enough, and the discoverer found its like in all the surrounding gulches wherever he dug for it. The secret could not be kept long. It was known at Yerba Buena three months after the discovery. TWO IMPORTANT EVENTS. 1848. — The treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, by which California was ceded to the United States, was concluded in Mexico, on February 2, 1848. It proves to have been on that very day, the 2d of February, 1848, that here in California, Marshall rides in from Sutter's Mill, situated at what is now Coloma, forty miles to Sutter's Fort, his horse in a foam and himself all bespattered with mud; and finding Captain Sutter alone, takes from his pocket a pouch, from which he pours upon the table about an ounce of yellow grains of metal, which he thought would prove to be gold. It did prove to be gold, and there was a great deal more where that came from. General Bidwell writes: "I myself first took the news to San Francisco. I went by way of Sonoma. I told General Vallejo. He told me to say to Sutter ' that he hoped the gold would flow into his purse as the water through his mill-race.'" WHAT MIGHT HAVE BEEN. We cannot observe the coincidence of the date of this great discovery, with that of the negotiation of the treaty of peace with Mexico, by which California was acquired by tho United States, without thinking. What if the gold discovery had come first ' What if the events of the war had postponed the conclusion of peace for a few months ? What if Mexico had heard the news before agreeing upon terms ? What if Mexico's large creditor, England, had also learned that there was abundance of gold here in California? Who can tell, when in that case, there would have been peace, and upon what terms, and with what disposition of territory. THE DISOVERY OF GOLD DOUBTED. In the bar room at Weber's Hotel in San Jose, one day in February, 1848, a man came in, and to pay for something he had purchased, offered some gold-dust, saying that gold had been discovered at Sutter's Mill on American River, and all were going to work. The people were very incredulous and would not believe the story. An old Georgia miner said that what the man had was really gold, and requested him to investigate the matter. When he arrived at Sutter's Mill, he asked Sutter regarding it, and the Captain assured him that it was a certainty, and that a man could make five dollars a day. He carried the news to San Jose and the place was almost deserted, every one hastening to the mines. The people were suspicious regarding the quality and amount of the gold. As the weeks passed, confidence was gained and the belief that there might possibly be precious minerals in other localities was strengthened. Prospectors gradually pushed out beyond the narrow limits of the first mining district, and thus commenced the opening up of the vast mining fields of California and the Pacific Coast. SPECIMEN PIECES OF GOLD. A Frenchman fishing in a prospect hole for frogs for his breakfast, at Mokelumne Hill, in November, 1848, discovered a speck of gold on the side of the excavation, which he dug out with his pocket-knife and sold for $2,150. Three sailors who had deserted took out $10,000 in five days on Weber Creek. Such strokes of good fortune turned all classes into miners, including the lawyers, doctors and preachers. The exports of gold-dust in exchange for produce and merchandise amounted to §500,000 by the 25th of September. The ruling price of gold-dust was $15 per ounce, though its intrinsic value was from SI 9 to $20. The first piece of gold found in California weighed 50 cents, and the second S5. Since that time one nugget worth $43,000, two $21,000, one $10,000, two $8,000, one $6,500, four $5,000, twelve worth from $2,000 to $4,000, and eighteen from $1,000 to $2,000 have been found and recorded in the History of the

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WONDERFUL PRODUCTIONS OF GOLD. 65 State. In addition to the above, numberless nuggets worth from 8100to$500 are mentioned in the anna] erf l lifornia gold mining during the last thirty yeara The firsl red bo were exchanged for bread, and all brace of them was lost. The finder of one of the $8,000 pi insane the following day,and was confined in the ho pita] al MERCHANTS ki.m BE GOLD Dl I A meeting of citizen in an Fri co, pr< ided M, Leavenworth andaddrc ed by Samuel Brannan p lutions in September, L848, not to patronize merchanl refused to take gold-dust at $16 per ounce. A memorial was also sent from San Franei co to Congre in thaj month for a branch mint here, [t stated, among other things, the opinion that by .July l, 1849, $5,000,000 worth of dust al $16 perounce would be taken out of the mines The 6gures were millions too low. ADVANCE IN EEAL ESTATE, Real estate iu San Francisco took a Budden rise. A lot on Montgomery Street near Washington, sold in July for 810,000, and was resold in November with a shanty on it for $27,000. Lots in Sacramento, or New Helvetia, also came up to fabulous prices that winter. By the month of October the rush from Oregon caused the Oregon City papers to stop publication. In December, the Kanakas and Sonorians came in swarms. A Honolulu letter, November 11th, said: — " Such another excitement as the news from California created here the world never saw. I think not less than 500 persons will leave before January 1st, and if the news continues good, the whole foreign population except missionaries will go." The news did continue good, and they came, some missionaries included. Soon there came up from the mines complaint of outrage and lawlessness, mostly against Kanakas and other foreigners. How well they were founded, to what they led, and how they were suddenly ami summarily silenced, is a story that, covers a very interesting part of the history of California and the progress of civilization in America, On the 29th of May, the Galifvrman issued a slip stating that its further publication, for the present, would cease, because nearly all its patrons had gone to the mines. SAN FRANCISCO DESERTED. A mouth later there were but rive persons— women and children—left in Yerba Buena. The first rush was for Sutter's Mill, since christened Coloma, or Culluma, after a tribe of Indians who lived in that region. From there they scattered in all directions. A large stream of them went over to Weber Creek, that empties into the American some ten or twelve miles below Coloma. Others went up or down the river. Some, more adventurous, crossed the ridge over to the north and middle forks of the American. By the close of June the s had extended to all the forks of the American. Weber Creek, Haagtown Creek, the known then as the Blakosume . the liokelumne, Tuolumne, the Xuba from uvae, or yuvas grape), called in L848 the " Ywi aba," and Feathei River. On July 15th, the editor of the Californian returned and I ili, iiii Qumbci of his paper after its suspension It , , ip| ion "i"' the mines from person i [< aid: — "The country from the Ajuba Vuba to t li. San -loaon'm, a distance of aboul L20 miles and from the base toward the summit of the mountains as far as Snow Hill [n ing Nevada], aboui seventy miles, has been explored and gold found On every part. There are now prol'alily ri.lHM) people, including Indians, engaged in collecting gold. The amount collected by each man ranges from §10 to 8350 per day. The publisher of this paper collected, with the aid of a shovel, pick, and a tin pan, from $44 to 8128 per day — ;i\ i i aging $100. The gross amount collected may exceed 8600,000; of which amount our merchants have received about 8250 000, all for goods, and in eight weeks. The largest piece known to be found weighs eight pounds. NUMBER OF MINERS AND THEIR SUCCESS. 1848. — On the 14th of August, the number of white miners was estimated at 4,000. Many of them were of ' Stevenson's Regiment and the disbanded Mormon Battalion. The Californian remarked on that day that " when a man with his pan or basket does not average $30 to $40 a day, he moves to another place. Four thousand ounces a day was the estimated production of the mines five months after the secret leaked out. In April the price of flour here was 84 per hundred. In August it had risen to $16. All other subsistence supplies rose in the same proportion. Here is a part of a letter from Sonoma, to the Californian, August 14th : — " I have heard from one of our citizens who has been at the placers only a few weeks, and collected $1,500, still averaging $100 a day. Another, who shut up his hotel here some five or six weeks since, has returned with $2,200, collected with a spade, pick, and Indian basket. A man and his wife and boy collected $500 in one day." Sam Brannan laid exclusive claim to Mormon Island, in the American, about twenty-eight miles above its mouth, and levied a royalty of thirty per cent, on all the gold taken there by the Mormons, who paid it for awhile, but refused after they came to a better understanding of the rules of the mines. By September the news had spread to Oregon and the southern coast and on the 2d of that month the Californian notes that 125 persons had arrived in town "by ship'' since August, 26th. In the " Dry Diggings " near Auburn, during the month of August, one man got SI 6,000 out of five cart-loads of dirt

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66 GRAND RUSH FOB THE GOLD MINES. in the lame diggin d many were collecting from ■ too to L.500 ■ di In the fall of 1848, John tfui p ■ of San Jo ered M urphy ' -amp I tigging j in Oala n and ome soldiers of Sfcei mi on' Regimen! di covered Rich Qtilch at Mokelumne Mill Thai irii miner a< Murphy's realized $80,000. it -.-. a common reporl that John Murphy, who mined a number of Cndians on wages bad collected over 81,500,000 in goldduHt before tin i-l. is. i i I*. wet ea on of 1848. The following notice of the discovery is from the Califorrrian,ot San Francisco, on the L9th of April, 1848: — New (.'hi. i) Mink, [t is stated that anew gold mine has been discovered "ii the American Fork of the Sacramento, supJiosed to '"• [it w.'i no 1 1 ..ii the land of William A. Leidesdorff, 5sa., of this place. A specimen of the gold has been exhibited and is represented to bo very pure May opened with accounts of new discoveries. The Californiam of May 3d said: "Seven men, with picks and spades, gathered 81,600 worth in fifteen Ways." That was a little more than $16 per man jut day. I >n the 17th of May the same paper said i " Many persons have already left the coast for the diggings. I 'onsiderable excitement exists here. Merchants and mechanics are closing doors. Lawyers and alcades are leaving their desks, farmers are neglecting their crops, and whole families are forsaking (heir homes, for the diggings." By May 24th gold-dust had become an article of merchandise! the price being from $14 to S1(J per ounce. The Californi'iti of that date had these advertisements: — OLD ! GOLD! I GOLDUI— Oaah will bB paid for California gold by E. B. Bi CB u i \\ , Watchmaker and Jeweler, San Francisco. OLD! GOLD ! I GOLD !I! — Messrs. Dickson & Hay are purchasers of Sacramento gold. A liberal price given. Bek Hive. THE SECRET WOULD NOT KEEP. Gr Before Sutter had quite satisfied himself that the metal found was gold, he went up to the mill, and, with Marshall, made a treaty with the Indians, buying of them their titles to the region round about for a certain amount of goods. There was an effort made to keep the secret inside the little circle that knew it, but it soou leaked out. They had many misgivings and much discussion whether they were not making themselves ridiculous ; yet by common consent all began to hunt, though with no great spirit, for the " yellow stuff" that might prove si i eh a prize. Slowly and surely, however, did these discoveries creep into the minds of those at home and abroad; the whole civilized world was set agog with the startling news from the shores of the Pacific. Young and old were seized with the California fever; high and low, rich and poor, were infected by it; the prospect was altogether too gorgeous to contemplate. Why, they could actually pick up a fortune for the seeking! OR AND RUSH FOR THE GOLD. While the real argonauts of 184S were wandering around among the hills and gulches that flank the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, armed with pan. spoon, and butcher-knife, testing Hi, scope and capabilities of the gold mines, the newsof ery was speeding on its way to the Eastern State-, by two routes simultaneously. It reached the frontier of Missouri and Iowa by the Mormon scouts and moving trappers about the same time that vessels sailing round Cape Horn took it to New York and Boston, which was in the late autumn of 1848. The first reports repeatedly confirmed and enlarged upon, threw the whole country into the wildest excitement. In the city of New York and the extreme Western States the fever was hottest. EMIGRANT COMPANIES FORMED. 1849. — The adventurers generally formed companies, expecting to go overland or by sea to the mines, and to dissolve partnership only after a first trial of luck together in the " diggings.'* In the Eastern and Middle States they would often buy up an old whaling ship, just ready to be condemned to the wreckers, put in a cargo of such stuff as they must need themselves, and provisions, tools, or goods, that must be sure to bring returns enough to make the venture profitable. Of course, the whole fleet rushing together through the Golden Gate, made most of these venture's profitless, even when the guess was happy as to the kind of supplies needed by the Californians. It can hardly be believed what sieves of ships started, and how many of them actually made the voyage. Hundreds of farms were mortgaged to buy tickets for the land of gold. Some insured their lives and pledged their policies for an outfit. The wild boy was packed off hopefully. The black sheep of the flock was dismissed with a blessing, and the folorn hope that, with a change of skies, there might be a change of manners. The stay of the happy household said " Good-bye, but only for a year or two," to his charge. Unhappy husbands availed themselves cheerfully of this cheap and reputable method of divorce, trusting time to mend matters in their absence. Here was a chance to begin life anew. THE MINERS' LAWS. The miners found no governmental machinery competent to protect their lives or their property, and hence each mining camp made a law unto itself. The punishment, of course, was sure and swift, and, as a consequence, there was but little of it. Gold was left in deep canons with no one to watch it, and every opportunity was afforded for theft; but if there were any disposed to take what did not belong to them, the knowledge that their lives would pay the forfeit if detected, deterred them from it. The excitement of the times led to gambling. It seemed that almost everybody, even those who had been leading church members at the East, were seized with the mania for gambling. Tables for this purpose were set out in every hotel, and one corner of many of the stores, both in mines and cities, -were set apart for the monte table.

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REVIEW OF THE GOLDEN ERA OF l67 SAN ii' rCISCO OH I DAYSundaj in fche time of the mining excitement differed little from other days. Banks were open expn i were running; i,,|( ...1- open for the most part; auc -.Tying their wares, and the town was full of business and Gambling saloons were thronged day and night. The plaza was surrounded with them on two ides, and partly on a third Music of every soil was heard Erora them, sometimes of the finest kind, and now and then the noise of violence and the sound <>t pistol Bhots. The whole city was a Btrange and almost bewildering scene to a stranger. THE GOLDEN BRA OF 1849. "The ' fall of '49 and the Bpring of '50' is the era of California history, which the pioneer always speaks of with warmth. It. was the Eree-and-easy age when everybody was flush, and fortune, if not in the palm, was only just beyond the grasp of all, Men lived chiefly in tents, or in cabins scarcely more durable, and behaved themselves like a generation of bachelors. The family was beyond the mountains; the restraints of society had not yet arrived. Men threw oft' the masks they had lived behind ami appeared out in their true character. A few did not discharge the consciences and convictions they brought With them. More rollicked in a perfect freedom from those bonds which good men cheerfully assume in settled society for the good of the greater number. Some afterwards resumed their temperate, steady habits, but hosts were wrecked before the period of their license expired. «• Very rarely did men on their arrival in the country, begin b0 work at their old trade or profession. To the mines first. If fortune favored, they soon quit for more congenial employm,nt If she frowned, they might depart disgusted, if they were able; but oftener, from sheer inability to leave the business they kept on, drifting from bar to bar, living fast, reckless improvident, half-civilized lives; comparatively rich today poor to-morrow; tormented with rheumatisms and agues, remembering dimly the joys of the old homestead; nearly weaned from the friends at home, who, because they were never heard from, soon became like dead men in their memory; seeing little of women and nothing of churches; self-reliant yet 8atisfied that there was nowhere any 'show' for them; ul o enterprise in the direct line of their business, and utterly lost in the threshold of any other; genial companions, morbidly craving after newspapers; good fellows, but short-lived. A REVIEW OF EVENTS. At this day it seems strange that the news of this great discovery did not fly abroad more swiftly than it did. It would not seem so very strange, however, if it could be remembered how very improbable the truth of the gold stories then were. -Vnd it appeared to be most improbable, that if gold was really found, it would be in quantities sufficient to pay for going after it. People were a little slow to commit th as May 24, 1848, a cc „, writing in.: - PaP* ften Pub* mSm Fran( i the opinion of some people thu , li;it evileffecte may.,.! resull from this mania and fche en , taenl abandonment of all useful pursuits, in a wild chase after gold '" A good many people, far and near, looked upon the m in bWa light for some time. The slowness with which bhi a . -lei in the beginning, is aeen in this:— Monterey, then the seat of government, is not more than Eour Or five days' travel fmm the place where gold was first discovered. The discovery took place not later than the I I of February, L848. And yet Alcalde Walter Colton says, in hia journa] under date, May 29th, "Our town was startled out Aloat,de Colton Meets the Miner. (See next page.) of its quiet dreams to-day by the announcement that gold had been discovered on the American Fork." If it took four months for the news of the discovery of gold to travel as far as Monterey, the capital town of the country, it is not surprising that it hardly got over to the Atlantic States within the year 184-8. There was then an express that advertised to take letters through to Independence, Missouri, in sixty days, at fifty cents apiece. If the gold news had been thoroughly credited here, it might have been published all through the East by the first of May; but it was not. In the early fall of 1848, however, the rumor began to get abroad there, through private sources. At first it wa~s laughed at, and those who credited it at all had no idea that gold existed here in sufficient quantities to be worth digging. ALCALDE COLTON'S VISIT TO THE MINES. Walter Colton, the alcalde of Monterey, and writer of " Three Years in California," hearing of the discovery of gold, visited the mines. From his descriptions we gain an insight into those days. We copy his journal for a few days:—

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68 SCENES AND INCIDENTS IN THE GOLD MINES. "1848 Octobei 12. -We are camped in the center of the gold mines, in the hearfcof the richest deposits, where many hundred* are at work. All the gold-diggers were excited by the report that a solid pocket of gold had been found on the Stanialau tn balfan bouramotley crowd, with crow-bars, pick ii ■ . ipad( , and wash bowls went over the hills in the direction of the Dew deposit. I remained and picked out from B mall cr< ice of slate rock, a piece weighing a half-ounce. "October 18 I itarted for the Stanislaus diggings. It was an uproarous life the monte table, with its piles of gold, glimmering in bhe ihade, The keeper of the bank was a woman. The bank cons! ited of b pile of gold, weighing, perhaps, a hundred pounds, They Beei I to play for the excitement, caring little whether they won or lost. " It was in this ravine that, a few weeks since, the largest lump of gold found in California was discovered. Its weight was twenty-three (23) pounds, and in nearly a pure state. Its discovery shook the whole mines. (Query — Does any one know the name of the finder ''.) "October 14. — A new deposit was discovered this morning near the falls of the Stanislaus. An Irishman had gone there to bathe, and in throwing off his clothes, had dropped his knife, which slipped into a crevice, and in getting it, picked up golddust. He was soon tracked out, and a storm of picks were splitting the rocks. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. " October 15. — Quite a sensation was produced by the arrival from Stockton of a load of provisions and whisky. The price of the former was: Hour, S2 per pound; sugar and coffee, St. The whisky was $20 per quart. Coffee-pots and sauce-pans were in demand, while one fellow ottered 810 to let him suck with a straw from the bung. All were soon in every variety of inebriety. "October 1G. — I encountered to-day, in a ravine some three miles distant, among the gold washers, a woman from San Jose. She was at work with a large wooden bowl, by the side of a stream. I asked her how long she had been there, and how much gold she averaged per day. She replied: " Three weeks, and an ounce." "October IS.— A German, this morning, picking a hole in the ground near our camping tree, struck a piece of gold weighing about three ounces. As soon as it was known, some forty picks were flying 'into the earth, but not another piece was found. In a ravine, a little girl this morning picked up what she thought a curious stone, and brought it to her mother, who found it a lump of gold, weighing six or seven pounds. " October 20.— I encountered this morning, in the person of a Welshman, a marked specimen of the gold-digger. He stood some six feet eight in his shoes, with giant limbs and frame. A slender strap fastened his coarse trowsers above his hips, and confined the flowing bunt of his flannel shirt. A broad-rimmed hat sheltered his browny features, while his unshorn beard and hair flowed in tangled confusion to his waist. To his back was lashed a blanket and bag of provisions ; on one shoulder rested a huge crow-bar, to which was hung a gold washer and skillet; on the other rested a rifle, a spade, and a pick, from which dangled a cup and a pair of heavy shoes. He recognized me as the magistrate who had once arrested him for breach of the peace. " Well, Alcalde," said he, " I am glad to see you in these diggings. I was on a buster; you did your duty, and I respect you for it ; and now let me settle the difference between us with a bit of gold ; it shall be the first I strike under this bog." Before I could reply, his traps were on the ground, and his pick was tearing up bog after bog. These removed, he struck a layer of clay. "Here she comes," he ejaculated, and turned out a piece of gold that would weigh an ounce or more. " There Alcalde, accept that, and when you reach home have a bracelet made for your good lady." He continued digging around the same place for the hour I remained, but never found another piece — not a particle. No uncommon thing to find only one piece, and never another near it." THE DESERTED CLAIMS. Scattered all up and down through the mining districts of California are hundreds of such spots as that represented by Colton. Time was when the same place was full of life and activit}- ; when the flume ran ; when the cabins were tenanted ; when the loud voices of men rose, and the sounds of labor kept the birds away that now fly so fearlessly around the tumbling ruins. But the claim gave out, and the miners, gathering their tools together, vamosed for some other spot, and desolation set in. The unused flume dropped to pieces, ownerless huts became forlorn, and the debris only added to the dismalness of the place. Or who knows, some dark deed may have led to the abandonment of the claim, for surely the spot looks uncanny and gloomy enough for twenty murders. FIRST DISCOVERIES OF GOLD. The first actually known of the metals was the reported discovery, as early as 1802, of silver at Alizal, in Monterey County. In 1825, Jedediah S. Smith, at the head of a party of American trappers, while crossing the Sierra Nevada in the vicinity of Mono Lake, "found placer gold in quantities and bronght much of it with him to the encampment on Green River." This is the first known discovery of gold in California, and much of the honor that is showered upon James W. Marshal, should properly fall upon this intrepid and enterprising pioneer trapper, Jedediah S. Smith. In 1828, at San Isador, in San Diego County, and in 1833, in the western limits of Santa Clara County, gold was also found. Gold placers were discovered in 1841, by a Canadian, near the Mission of San Fernando, forty-five miles northeast of Los Angeles, and were worked until 1848, in a small way, yielding some 86,000 annually.

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w.vv.ELUOrr &■ CO. urn. 6'3 MONTQOMERy ST. S.F. MILL PROPERTY OF D.R.JONES &CQ.] ■- *.

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ORGANIZATION OF STATE GOVERNMENT. Organization of the Government. 1840. — Thomas O. Larkin, tin- American Consul at Ifonte rev, who under instructions had gained a great amount of influence among the leading native Califbrnians, suggested and caused the issuance of a circular by Governor Pico, in M .-u 1846, callinga convention of thirty of the more prominenl men in bho country. This assemblage was to discuss the condition of affaire and to petition the Mexican authorities for an im proved government; if the request met with a refusal, the I i ritory was to be sold to some other power. The tendency of tliis discussion would be towards the transfer of the territory to the United States. The convention did not meet, howevi r, asevents transpired which precluded the possibility of a peaceful transfer. Lieut. John C. Fremont arrived in that year, and soon became embroiled in a wordy conflict with the authorities, and I do and his party declared a revolution at Sonoma as heretofore mentioned. The, more intelligent settlers of California saw at an early -lay the urgent necessity of a regular constitution and laws. The provisional government existing since the conquest of 1847 was but a temporary affair and by no means able to satisfy the wants of a great, growing, and dangerous population which had now so strangely and suddenly gathered together. The inhabitants could not wait the slow movements of Congress. Attempts were made by the citizens of San Francisco, Sonoma, and San Jose to form legislatures for themselves, which they invested with supreme authority. It was quickly found that these independent legislative bodies came into collision with each other, and nothing less than a general constitution would be satisfactory to the people. ( Ireat meetings for these purposes were held at San Jose, San Francisco, Monterey, Sonoma, and other places, in the months of December and January, 1848-49. It was resolved that delegates be chosen by popular election from all parts of the State to meet at San Jose. These delegates were to form a Constitution. These movements were general on the part of all citizens, and no partisan feeling was shown in the matter. CONVENTION CALLED AT MONTEREY. 1849.— While the people were thus working out for themselves this great problem, the then great Military Governor, General Riley, saw fit to issue on the 3d of June, 1849, a proclamation calling a Convention to meet at Monterey on the 1st of September, to frame a Constitution. These delegates were forty-eight in number, and while they represented all parts of the State, they were also representatives of every State in the Union. They were men not much used to those deliberations expected of such a body, but they determined to do their duty in the best possible manner. The delegates, at their first regular meeting on the 4th of September, chose, by a large majority of rotes, l>r. tiobert tie as President of the Convention, Capt William G. Marey was then appointed Secretary, and the other necessary were properly fill.- d up. After rather more than a month's constant labor ami discassion, the existing Constitution of California was drafted, and finally adopted by the < invention. Till, i ii: i - i \ i I OONSTIT N This document was formed after the model of the most approved State Con fcitutions of the Union, and was framed in strict accordance with the most liberal and independenl opinions of the age On the 13th of October, 1849, the delegates signed the instrument, and a salute of thirty-owi guns was fired. The house in which the delegates met was a large, handsome two-story stone erection, called " Colton Hall." and was, perhaps, the best fitted for their purposes of any building in the country. It was erected by Walter Colton, who was the Alcalde of Monterey, having been appointed by Commodore Stockton July 28, 1846. The building is still standing in a good state of preservation. The Constitution was submitted to the people and was adopted on the 13th of November, a Governor being elected at the same time: — For the Constitution 12,064 Against the Constitution 811 For Governor, Peter H. Burnett 6,716 W. Scott Sherwood 3,188 J. W. Geary 1.475 John A. Sutter 2,201 William M. Stewart 719 Total vote on Constitution 12,875 Total vote for Governor 14,299 This vote was light, and was chiefly cast at San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego, Santa Barbara, San Jose, Stockton, Sacramento, and the mines most convenient to the latter places. The miners were moving about from place to place, were scattered along the rivers and in the mountains, and on account of the limited facilities for communication and the short time between the adjournment of the Convention and the day of the election, there was no opportunity offered to thousands to exercise the right of franchise on this occasion, but they gladly acquiesced in the decision of their countrymen. FIRST CALIFORNIA LEGISLATURE. On Saturday, the 15th of December, 1849, the first Legislature of the State of California met at San Jose. The Assembly occupied the second story of the State House, but the lower portion, which was designed for the Senate Chamber not being ready, the latter body held their sittings, for a short period, in the house of Isaac Branham, on the southwest corner of Market Plaza. The State House proper was a building

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MEETING OF THE FIRST LEGISLATURE. sixfcy-fivefeetlong.fortyfeel ,„!, two stories high and adorned with a piazza in front. The upper story was simply a large rife a stairway leading thereto. This was the Assembly Ohambei The lower story was divided into four rooms; the largest, 20x40 f.-.-t, was d.-sigu^l for the Senate Chamber, and ,( , cthera were used by bhe Secretary of State and the various committees. The building was destroyed by fire on the 29th of Lpril, 1853, at four o'clock in the morning. BOLON8 DISSATISFIED WITH SAN JOSE. On the first day of the first legislative session only six Senators were pre eat, and perhaps twice as many Assemblymen. On Sunday, Governor Riley and Secretary Halleck arrived, and by Monday nearly all the members were present. Numberof members: Senate, 10; Assembly, 36. Total, 52. No soouer was the Legislature fairly organized than the members began to growl about their accommodations. They didn't like the legislative building, and swore terribly, between drinks, at the accommodations of the town generally. Many of the solons expressed a desire to move the Capitol from San Jose immediately. On the 19th instant George B. Tingley, a member of the House from Sacramento, offered a bill to the effect that the Legislature remove the Capitol at once to Monterey. The bill passed its first reading and was laid over for further action. FIRST STATE SENATORS ELECTED. On the 20th Governor Riley resigned his gubernatorial office, and by his order, dated Headquarters Tenth Military Department, San Jose, California, December 20, 1849, (Order No. 41), Capt. H. W. Halleck, afterwards a General in the war of the Rebellion, was relieved as Secretary of State. On the same day Gov. Peter Burnett was sworn by K. H. Dimick, Judge of the Court of First Instance. The same day, also, Col. J. C. Fremont received a majority of six votes, and Dr. M. Gwin a majority of two for Senators of the United States. The respective candidates for the United States Senate kept ranches, as they were termed; that is, they kept open house. All who entered drank free and freely. Under the circumstances they could afford to. Every man who drank of course wished that the owner of the establishment might be the successful candidate for the Senate. That wish would be expressed half a dozen times a day in as many different houses. A great deal of solicitude would be indicated just about the time for drinks. FIRST INAUGURAL BALL. On the evening of the 27th the citizens of San Jose, having become somewhat alarmed at the continued grumbling 0&f the strangers within their gates, determined that it was "nee essary to do something to content the assembled wisdom of the State, and accordingly arranged for a grand ball which was gxven in the Assembly Chamber. As ladies were very scarce, the country about was literally ' raked," to use the expression of the historian of that period, "for senoritas," and their red and yellow flannel petticoats so variegated the whirl of the dance that the American-dressed ladies, and in fact the solons themselves, were actually bewildered, and finally captivated, for, as the record further states, " now and then was given a sly wink of the eye between some American ladies, and between them and a friend of the other sex, as the senoritas, bewitching and graceful in motion, glided by with a captured member." But, notwithstanding this rivalry, the first California inaugural ball was a success. " The dance went on as merry as a marriage bell. All were in high glee. Spirits were plent}-. Some hovered where you saw them not, but the sound thereof was not lost." THE NOTED LEGISLATURE. Speaking of the appellation applied to the first body of California law-makers, i.e., " The Legislatureof a Thousand Drinks," the same quaint writer says, " with no disrespect for the members of that body, I never heard one of thern deny that the baptismal name was improperly bestowed upon them. They were good drinkers — they drank like men. If they could not stand the ceremony on any particular occasion they would lie down to it with becoming grace. I knew one to be laid out with a white sheet spread over him, and six lighted candles around him. He appeared to be in the spirit land. He was really on land with the spirits in him — too full for utterance. But to do justice to this body of men, there were but a very few among them who were given to drinking habitually, and as for official labor, they performed probably more than any subsequent legislative body of the State in the same given time. In the State House there was man}' a trick played, many a joke passed, the recollection of which produces a smile upon the faces of those who witnessed them. It was not infrequently that as a person was walking up stairs with a lighted candle, a shot from a revolver would extinguish it. Then what shouts of laughter rang through the building at the seared individual. Those who fired were marksmen; their aim was true and they knew it." THE FANDANGO PATRONIZED. Speaking of the way in which these gay and festive legislators passed their evenings, a writer says: " The almost nightly amusement was the fandango. There were some respectable ones, and some which at this day would not be called respectable. The term might be considered relative in its signification. It depended a good deal on the spirit of the times and the notion of the attendant of such places. Those fandangos, where the members kept their hats on and treated their partners after each dance, were not considered of a high-toned character (modern members will please bear this in mind). There were frequent parties where a little more gentility was exhibited. In truth, considering the times and the coun

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ACTS AND AMUSEMENTS OF EARLY LEGISLATORS. 71 trv, they were very agreeable. The difference in language, in some degree prohibited a free exchange of ideas between tintwo nexes when the Americans were in excess. But then, what one con I' I not say in so many words he imagined, made signs, and, on the whole, the parties were novel and interesting \ miskmknts FOB 'i hi. MEMBERS. The grand out-door amusements were the bull and bear fights. They took place sometimes on St, James, and sometimes on Market Square. Sunday was the usual day for bullfights. ( )n the 3d day of February the legislators were entcrbained by a great exhibition of a Eellow-man putting himself on a level with a beast. In the month of March there was a ■■ I deal of amusement, mixed with a considerable amount of excitement. It was reported all over the Capital that gold had been discovered in the bed of Coyote Creek. There was a general rush. Picks, shovels, crow-bars and pans had a large sale. Members of the Legislature, officials, clerks, and lobbyists concluded suddenly to change their vocation. Even the sixteen dollars per day which they had voted themselves was no inducement to keep them away from Coyote Creek. But they soon came back again, and half of those who went away would never own it after the excitement was over. Beyond the above interesting and presumably prominent facts history gives us very little concerning the meeting of our first Legislature except that the session lasted 1 -J!) days, an adjournment having been effected on the 22d of April, 1850. SECOND SESSION OF LEGISLATURE. isr.l.— The Second Legislature assembled on the Gth of January, 1851. On the 8th the Governor tendered his resignation to the Legislature, and John McDougal was sworn in as his successor. The question of the removal of the capital from San Jose was one of the important ones of the session, so much so that the citizens of San Jose were remarkably active in catering to the wishes of the members of the legislative body. They ottered extravagant bids of land for the capital grounds, promised all manner of buildings and accommodations, and even took the State scrip in payment for Legislators' board. But it was of no use. Vallejo was determined to have the capital, and began bribing members right and left with all the city lots they wanted. The act of removal was passed February 14th, and after that date the Legislators had to sutler. The people refused to take State scrip for San Jose board, charged double prices for everything; and when, on the 16th of May, the Solons finally pulled up stakes and left, there was not thrown after them the traditional old shoe, but an assorted lot of mongrel oaths and Mexican maledictions greeted them on their long-wished-for departure. REMOVALS OF THE CAPITAL. Third Session -< lonvened at Vallejo, the new Capital. JanuL852. Number of members: Senate 27; Assembly. '.'.2 Total, 89. Fourth Session— Convened at Vallejo, January 2, 1853 pi moved to Benicia, February 4. L853. Fifth ; ion— Convened at Benicia, January 2, 1854, removed to Sacramenl .. February 25, 1854, where it has since remained. PRESE 1 i CAPITOL BUILDING. In the beginning of 1SG0, the citizens of Sacramento deeded to the State, Lots of land in the city on which a new State Capitol could be built. Work commenced the Loth -lay of May. 1861, and the corner-stone was laid with Masonic ceremonies, conducted by N. Green Curtis, then Grand Master of the Order. Inafew years other blocks were added, jo that now the grounds extend from Tenth to Fifteenth and from L to N Streets. For State House at San Jose, 1849. this addition the citizens subscribed S30.000, the State appropriation not being sufficient to fully pay for the land. The original architect was Reuben Clark, to whom the greatest meed of praise should be given for the beautiful building that now adorns the city and is an honor to the State. After the dedication ceremonies, work was discontinued on it for some time, and it was not until 1865, that labor was recommenced in earnest. Up to November 1, 1875, the cost, added to the usual items for repairs and improvements, amounted to 82,449,42S31. The building is 240 feet in height, the height of the main building being 94 feet. Its depth is 149 feet and its length 282. The Assembly Chamber is 73 by 75, with a height of 48 feet, the Senate 73 by 56, with the same height. The first or ground story of the building, is 16 feet above level of the surrounding streets. The State Capitol, one of the prettiest in America, stands in a park of eight blocks, terraced and ornamented with walks, drives, treesTshruDs, and plants, forming one of the prettiest spots in the country. This fine structure cost about 82,500,000, and its towering dome, surmounted by the Temple and Goddess

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72 A NEW CONSTITUTION ADOPTED. of Liberty, rises 240 feet, and Is the first object presented to dew in the distance from whatever direction the traveler approaches the city. A fine engraving of this building will be found as a frontispiece. The 8tateCapitol Park, in which are located the Capitol building, the State Armory, and the State Printing Office, embraces ten full block* of land, and the breadth of four streets, running north and south. Recent improvements layoutthe -rounds in a graceful landscape style, of extensive lawn and clumps of trees, and arranges them more especially as a drive. The main drive is in theform of an ellipse, the roadway being forty feet In width, and estimated to be about two-thirds of °a mile in length. It is bordered by a double row of trees, and the grounds intervening between the roadway and the fences are being tastefully laid out in the bast style of landscape gardening. FOBMTNG OP A NEW CONSTITUTION. The Constitution which was framed at Monterey, when the • State was yet in its swaddling clothes, answered every purpose for a number of years, but the entire body politic had changed, and the popular voice became clamorous for a change in the organic law of the State. The question had often been before mooted, and votes taken upon calling a convention for the purpose of framing a new Constitution, but public sentiment did not reach the requisite condition until the general election of 1877, at which time "Constitutional Convention Yes," carried with an overwhelming majority. During the session of the Legislature, which followed this election, a bill was framed and passed,, which provided for the election of delegates to the convention, and which was approved" March 30 1878. Thirty-two of the delegates were fc> be elected from the State at large, not more than eight of whom should reside in anyone Congressional district. In accordance with a proclamation issued by the Governor, an election for the purpose of ol choosing delegates to the convention was held June 19 1878 The body comprising the Constitutional Convention, met at Sacramento City, September 28th of that year, and continued in session 175 days. The day set for the people of the State to adopt or reject the result of the labors of the Convention was May 7, 1ST!), and there was a very strong, and in some instances a bitter fight made over it ; those opposing it. citing wherein the old Constitution had proved satisfactory, and wherein the n*w organic law would prove disastrous ; while those who desired its adoption were as ready to show up the weak points of the old and its inadequacy to the demands of the present advanced state of affairs, and wherein a new would almost prove a panacea for all our ills, both social, moral, and political. Thus the matter continued to be agitated until the day had come on which the die should be cast, and greatly to the surprise of everybody, the decision of the people of the State was in favor of the new law. LIST OF CALIFORNIA GOVERNORS. The Governors of California since its settlement to the present time were as follows : — SPANISH RULE. Gaspar de Portala 1767-1771 Felipe de Barri 1771-1774 Felipe de Neve 1774-1782 Pedro Fajes 1782-1890 Jose Antonio Romea 1790- 1 792 *Jose J. de Arrillaga 1792-1794 Diego de Borica \ 1794-1S00 Jose J. de Arrillaga 1800-1S14 ♦Jose Arguello 1814-1815 Pablo Vincente de Sola 1815-1822 MEXICAN RULE. Pablo Vincente de Sola Luis Arguello Jose Maria de Echeandia June Manuel Victoria jan *pi°pi^ '.:y.."'.'..'.jan':, Jose Figuerra jan •Jose Castro ^ucr' Nicolas Gutierrez j^ ' Mariano Chico _a™. ' Nicolas Gutierrez Au ' Juan B. Alvarado j^ov" Manuel Micheltorena £>ec " PioPico V.'".'.":"".'."W; 1822 1823 1825— Jan., 1831— Jan., 1832— Jan., 1833— Aug., 1835— Jan., 1836— Apr., 1836— Aug, 1836— Nov., 1836— Dec, 1842— Feb, 1845— July 1-1823 -1825 1831 1 832 1833 1 835 1836 1836 1836 1836 1842 1845 1846 AMERICAN RULE— TERRITORIAL. " ^Stockton Aug. 17 m6_Jaa; Mtf a t Js°\;cKFremont Jan- -• 18«-k»- i kw cTri'fZZ7 *"■ *■ 1S*'-May 31, LS 17 K£ Srsjs-^i18- Api. 13, 1849— Dec. 20,1849 STATE— GOVERNORS. NAME. fPeter H. Burnett . ^ John McDougal. . . Dec" John Bigler. .'. . JanJohn Bigler.. Jan J. Neely Johnson Jan' John B. Weller ^an" fMiltonS. Latham. -' JanJohn G. Downey. ... Jan' Leland Stanford. . Jan" ^Frederick F. Low . ^ Henry H. Haight. . ~ec> fNewton Booth ' Dec' Romualdo Pacheco. ^eC" William Irwin ' Feb" George C. Perkins. ... ?ec" " Jan. • Ad interim. t Reined. , Term iDcrcascd from DJAUai'ltlTKD. 20, 1S49 9, 185 1 8, 1852 8, 1S54 8, 1S56 8, 1858 8, 1860 14, 1S60 8, 1862 2, 1S63 5, 1867 8, 1871 27, 1875 9, 1875 5, 1880 two to four years.

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GREAT MOUNTAIN RANGES OF THE 8TATE. Geographical Features. THB Coast Range of mountains runs parallel to the ocean, and has an altitude of from 2,000 to 4,000 feet above the sea, and an average width of twenty to forty miles. On the general eastern boundary of California, ami running nearly its entire length, lies the Sierra Nevada ''snowy range), its summit being generally above the region of perpetual snow. In this State it is about 450 miles long and 80 miles wide, with an altitude varying from 5,000 to 15,000 feet above the level of the sea. Nearly its whole width is occupied with its western slope, descending to a level of 300 feet above the sea; its eastern slope, five or six miles wide, terminating abruptly in the great interior basin, which is 5,000 feet above the sea level. The sides of the Sierra Nevada, to the height of about 8,000 feet, are covered with dense forests of valuable timber, which is succeeded by rugged granite and perpetual snow. THE CALIFOBNIA ALPS, John Muir saysof the region about the head-waters of King's River: — " Few portions of the California Alps are, strictly speaking picturesque. The whole massive uplift of the range, 450 miles long by about seventy miles wide, is one grand picture, not clearly divisible into smaller ones ; in this respect it differs greatly from the older and riper mountains of the Coast Range. All the landscapes of the Sierra were remodeled deep down to the roots of their granite foundations by the developing icefloods of the last geological winter. -On the head-waters of the Kings River is a group of wild Alps on which the geologist may say the sun has but just beenin to shine, yet in a high degree picturesque, and in all its main features so regular and evenly balanced as almost to appear conventional-one somber cluster of snow-laden peaks wifch gray pine-fringed granite bosses braided around its base, the whole surging free into the sky from the head of a magnificent valley, whose bfty walls are beveled away on both sides so as to embrace it all without admitting anything not stnctly belonging to it. The foreground was now all aflame with autumn colors, brown and purple and gold, ripe with the mellow sunshine; contrasting brightly with the deep, cobalt blue of the sky, and the black and gray and pure, spiritual white of the rocks and glacier, Down through the midst the young river was seen pouring from its crystal fountains, now resting in glassy pools as if changing back again into ice; now leap ing in white cascades as if turning to snow; ghding ngh and left between the granite bosses, then sweeping on through the smooth meadowy levels of the valley, swaying pen^vely from ,lde t0 Side with calm, stately gestures, past W "*"" and sedges, and around groves of arrowy pine; and throng! o to whole eventful course, flowing fast or slow, singing loud oa low, ever filling the landscape with spiritual animation, and manifesting the grand-.,, of ita !"•■", JU"1 m i Dl LBLO The most familiar peak in the State is, however, Mount Diablo/ being very near its geographical center, and towering above all other peaks— prominent from its inaccessibility and magnificent panoramic sweep from its top— prominent from its selection by the 'Government as the initial point of base and meridian lines in the land survey.it being the reference point in about two-thirds of the State. It stands out boldly 3,856 feet high, overlooking the tranquil ocean, thirty miles due east from the Golden Gate, serving as a beacon to the weary, ses-tossed mariner, far out on the blue, briny billows, pointing him to a haven of security in the great harbor through the Golden Gate itself; and even on through bay and strait to anchorages safe and deep, up to where the foot-stones of the great pile meet and kiss the brackish waters. Grand old mountain, majestic, silent, yet a trumpet-tongued preacher ! Who is there of the prosperous dwellers upon its dopes, or near its grateful shadows, that, going or coining by land or sea, does not look upon that blue receding or advanc. ing pile with a full heart ? It is believed there are few points on the earth's surface from which so extensive an area can be seen as from this mountain. The writer has from its summit, counted thirty-five cities and villages, where reside two-thirds of the inhabitants of the State. The two great mountain ranges unite at the northern and southern part of the State, each connecting range having a lofty peak. MOUNT SHASTA. In the northern connecting link is Mount Shasta, 14,442 feet M„h It rears its great craggy snow-covered summit high in the air, and is often seen at a distance of 200 miles at the southwest It takes about three days to reach itssummit and return. You can ride to the snow line the first day, ascend to the top the following morning, descend to your camp in the afternoon, and return to the valley on the third day. Mount Shasta has a glacier, almost, if not quite, the only one within the limits of the United States. The mountain is an extinct volcano. Its summit is composed of lava, and the eye can easily trace the now broken lines of this old crater when viewed from the north. Mount Shasta is clothed with snow for a virtual mile down from its summit during most of the year. MOUNTS WHITNEY AND SAN BENARDINO. Mount Whitney is the highest point in the United States (14,900 feet) ; but Mount Shasta (14,442 feet) makes a more imposing appearance because it rises in solitary grandeur 7,000 feet above any mountains near it. A signal station has lately been established on Mount Whitney. In the Sierra Nevada Range are more than 100 peaks over 10,000 feet high, according to the

THB GREAT VALLEYS AND PRODUCTIONS. State Geographical Survey, in the southern connecting link bsmm sapped tfounl San Bernardino 11,600 feet above the sea level. CltKAT SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY. Between these twogreat mountain ranges, lies the great interior basin of the State, comprising the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys, really but one geographical formation, drained by the two great rivers bearing their respective names, and their tributaries ; an uninterrupted level country of exceeding fertility, and the great future wheat growing section of the Stat.-. This basin extends north and south about 400 miles, With an average breadth of from fifty to sixty miles, rising into undulating slopes and low hills as the mountains are approached on either side. It is covered with a diluvium from 400 to 1, 500 feet deep, and presents evidences of having once been the bed of a vast lake. Innumerable valleys are formed by spurs shooting off from the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Range, and from the Coast Range on either side, extending the entire length of the State; well watered by springs and living streams, possessing a good soil and climate, and every way adapted to profitable mixed husbandry. This great valley is drained from the north by the Sacramento River, and from the south by the San Joaquin, which, after meeting and uniting in the center of the bas;n, break through the Coast Range to the Pacific. At the southern extremity are the Tulare Lakes and marshes which, in the wet season, cover a large extent of surface. Along the great rivers the valleys are generally low and level, and extremely fertile rising into undulating slopes and low hills as the mountains are approached on either side, and broken on the east by numerous spurs from the Sierras. The following table gives the most noted elevations in the State and their distance from San Francisco. ALTITUDE OF PROMINENT POINTS IN THE STATE NAMES OF PLACES. (MKiiHA KHVADA RANGK.) Distance fr'ni S.K. Mount Whitney. . Mount Shastn .... Mount Tymliill. . Mount Dann. . . Mount Lyell Mount Drawer . Mouut Sillitnan . . Lassen Butte Stanislaus Peak . Round Top Downieville ButuColfax Village. . . Sacramento Altituilu ub'vo NCU 173 •244 I GO 14.S 144 162 130 183 125 120 157 144 no 14,900 14,442 14,386 13,227 13, --'17 13,S86 11,623 10,577 11,500 10,650 8,720 •2,431 30 NAMES OF PLACES. (COAST RANGE.) Distance fr'ni S. F. Altitude ah've sea Snow Mountain .... Mount St. John. . . . Mount Hamilton . . . Mount St. Helena . . Mount Diablo Mount Lom a Prieta. Mount Bailey Mount Tamalpais. . . Marysville Buite.-.. Farallone Islands . . . Clay Street Hill Red Bluff Redding 114 96 52 70 32 54 280 15 92 34 225 260 7,500 4,500 4,400 4,343 3,656 4,040 6,375 2,604 2,030 200 3S7 307 558 THE STAPLE PRODUCTIONS. Prior to 1S64, no very marked results were reached in farming in California, the export of agricultural products, with the exception of wool, not having been such as to attract attention abroad. And owing to the drought that prevailed in 1S63 and 1864, California had but little grain or other farm produce to spare, flour having been to some extent imported. The large extent, undoubted fertility, and known capabilities of the lands of the San Joaquin, Sacramento and Salinas Valleys give assurance that agriculture will become the predominant interest of its people. The principal staples which the soil and climate of these valleys favor are the cereal grains. Wild oats are indigenous to the country, and on lands allowed to run wild, will run out other small grains, but are cultivated only as a forage plant which, cut while green, makes an excellent hay. Barley also thrives well, and, in a green state, is often cut for hay. But the great staple, from being "the staff of life," and the ease of cultivation over other products in this climate, is wheat. In a moderately rainy season it is capable of perfecting its growth before the heats of summer have evaporated the moisture from the roots, and a crop is nearly sure of being made. No disease, rust, or insect harms the grain, although smut was in early days very prevalent, but, by proper treatment has nearly disappeared. There has always been a good demand for the surplus crop of this cereal, in the mines and for export, and its cultivation has been profitable. Cotton cultivation has been experimented upon in Fresno County, and in the Tulare Basin, where the yield has averaged 500 pounds to the acre of a fine textile fibre. Next to the cultivation of cereals, the vine engrosses the minds of California agriculturists more than any other production, the product of her vineyards finding favor in all parts of the world. Nearly a thousand vessels enter the port of San Francisco in a year, and a large number of these are required to carry the wheat to Europe. Some §15,000,000 is annually received for wheat alone, and it is shipped to the following countries, arranged in order according to the amount which was sent them : Great Britain, Belgium, France, Australia, Spain, South America, New Zealand, China, Germany, Hawaiian Islands, British Columbia, Tahiti, and Mexico. By this list it is seen that we contribute breadstuff's to nearly every country of the globe. CALIFORNIA'S VARIED INDUSTRIES. California has now a total area of 7,000,000 acres inclosed, 4,000,000 cultivated— nine-tenths of the cultivated land being in cereals, and 90,000 in grape-vines. She has 2,500,000 bearing trees of temperate fruits— apple, pear, peach, plum, prune, apricot, nectarine, and cherry— 300,000 bearing trees of semi-tropiical fruits— orange, lemon, lime, fig, and olive— 400,000 almond and English walnut trees, 4,400 miles of mining ditchs, 260 gold quartz-mills, 300 saw-mills and 140 grist-mills. Among her annual products are 12,000 tons of wool, 5,000 of butter, 1,500 of cheese and 500 of honey, 6,000,000 gallons of wine and 14,000,000 of beer, and 500,000,000 feet of sawn lumber. The assessed value of her property is §578,000,000, of which half is in San Francisco and its suburbs.

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AGRICULTURAL STATISTICS 01 mm STATE. 75 AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTIONS. Jt is as an agricultural State now, however, that California in attracting attention, and to show what we are doing in that line we append a table of receipts and exports from San E ran Cisco of wheat, flour, barley, oats, beans and potatoes since 1856. Each year terminates with June 30th : — WHEAT AND FLOUR. \ IOCS. HECKHTS K.|.|:il to "■'l'- bbla. Floor. 1857 151,470 1858 116,474 1850 212,888 I860 419,749 1861 834,020 1862 560,304 [868 781,138 1864 715,975 1665 • .. 310,691 1866 1)17,217 18(17 1,967,197 1868 1.878,508 1869 ... • ■ 2,238,800 1870 2,244,061 1 87 1 1,597,756 '1872 937,203 1878 3,815,911 1874 3,079,473 1875 3,731,104 1876 2.052,461 1877 4115,554 1S78 1,864,644 1879.. ..3,889,180 1880 2,891,660 BXPOBTO. Il-vtn K:i.(>74 5.M5 18(13 59,620 2,863 L863 364,423 l ) ,952 18(14 83.5(18 21,019 18(14 370 mi. 22 nil 18(15 47,822 4.244 1865 346,654 5,976 L866 45,717 (1,(1(12 18(1(1 515,807 16.984 18(17 50,678 2,921 1807 543,193 7.: 37 8 18.18 50,(138 12.917 18(18 632,086 19 133 1869 53.711 1,899 1869 (ioi 392 24.300 1870 99,585 7,890 1870 701,960 2+710 1871 85,618 21,800 1871 7IKI.I22 Is.s.SO 1872 56,390 7.479 1872 720077 36,578 1873 70.048 5,997 1 873 779,379 27,986 1874 8! 1.091 5,739 1874 781,019 33.772 1875 113,577 8,15(1 1875 7-". 2,450 29,441 187(1 115,128 17,29(1 1870 731,207 25 684 1877 117.8(10 10,512 1877 810,570 3(1818 1878 80,11(1 12.70.5 1 878 624,353 18,840 1879 207,1! 13 17,871 1879 750,211 23,440 1880 198,249 28,740 1880 590,61 1 3(1. -oo ,054,11 I,065,75.4 ,459, (194 40,707 188,049 15.000 318,631 ,501.700 110,714 100,000 .-,,000 STATE LANDS AND HOW DIVIDED. State Surveyor-General, William Minis, places the areo of the State at 100,500,000 acres, divided as follows :— Agricultural and mineral lands surveyed to June 30, 1879 Agricultural ami mineral lands uasurveyed Private giants surveyed to June 30, 1879 Mission Church property Pueblo Lands Private grants unsurveyed Indian and military reservations Lakes, islands, bays and navigable rivers Swamp and overflowed lands unsurveyed Salt marsh and tide lands around San Francisco bay Salt marsh and tide lands around Humboldt bay. Aggregate 100,500,000 OWNERSHIP AND CULTIVATION OF LAND. From various official sources -we have compiled the subjoined table, showing the total area, the area sold by the Government ( that is, held by private ownership ), the area enclosed, and the area cultivated, in every county of the State — all in square miles. The figures are not exact, nor is it possible to make them so from any official records now in existence. The area "sold" is that treated as subject to taxation in the several counties, and the areas enclosed and cultivated are reported annually in the Assessor's reports. In some cases, considerable quantities of land have been disposed of by the Federal Government, but in such a manner that they are not subject to taxation. Thus, the Southern Pacific Railroad Company has built 150 miles of its road in San Die^o county, and is entitled to twenty square miles of land as subsidy for each mile of the road, making a total of 3,000 square miles; but this land has not yet been conveyed by patent, and nobody is authorized to say precisely which section will I pass under the grant. The total areas, as given in the following ' table, are taken from calculations made by J. H. Wilde, Euq.

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S.ZE AND WEALTH OF EACH OF THE COUNTIES. NAMK, I :ii i l.i I in.' San Mutai. Mnnn. Nutter. ffiff"™ T^iT ■» Amador. HELD AURA. 433 450 675 570 GOO 700 • '■ intra Costa. Til 756 PHI I Alameda. an bolano. 800 HUE Napa. DIAGRAM SHOWING COMPARATIVE SIZE OF COUNTIES. Prepared for Elliott A Moore's County History. Arranged b) square mile* each square represent* 50 square miles land. , . „ .,, Mock ■ iqnaw represents 50 square mile* cultivated, fractions omitted, i ,,i, dotted jT) square represents 50 square miles Bold bat not cultivated i „ !, open | tqaate reprints 50 sqoare mites unsold land, not assessed. Ih. he table are not exact Tl,. , c Iri vated and assessed [land and vain.,,, mi t's reports. About one twenty-fourth of tnebtate « oultivuted, and about ono-fourth belongs to individuals. valuation, 0 li. n vat ED. SOLD. Real and Personal. 35 380 9 5,010,553 6,157,210 7,868,917 3,906,203 4,268,250 2,724,449 7,720,292 37,452,230 8,671,022 7,873,926 751,005 1,829,865 1,213,084 3,774,003 18,578,385 6,821,306 9,910,597 23,G28,845 18,678,594 6,031,988 2,857,383 5,832,925 15,178,121 1,299,950 695,850 10,005,097 ■no Sierra. 8u8 TMJ 630 Calaveras. ZLE Lake. I I I I I 975 •l-l-l-l I 1 I I I I I I I Nan Benito. WEE 1,000 Sacraiui'iiln. HDHEE Nevada, 1,020 00 25 325 90 45 180 105 190 40 4 35 30 55 1 "170 1,050 Yolo. I II I I I I I 1.150 »«■■! Santa Clara. HfH»H 1,330 450 490 570 300 200 700 650 790 350 140 320 230 480 9S0 500 8S0 850 San Jouquiii. ■■■■■■■■■■I 1,350 I I I I I 1 I I 47r. 1,350 Stanislaus. • 1,350 IIHHIMMII 590 ■IVentura. MEH 1,380 78 1,220 "ij 700 ■H'H'H-I'H I I 1 I I I I I 1 I I I I 1 Placer. 1,380 GOO ■HI Sonoma. ■I I I I I I I I Ill ■hhqe Mariposa. 1 ,400 310 1,200 1,4-10 1 I I I I I Del Norte. EH Butte. 1,440 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 1,458 «■■■■■■■!• Trinity. 1,800 n-i-i i i i i i i i i i i i 370 750 ZED 100 Hi Dorado. I 1,87 -J M I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 20 330 S98.610 urn 2,331,350 Tuolumne. 1,950 SO 290 1,049,011 ■■htm i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i rrriTTTTTj Merced. 1,975 480 1 ■ I ■ I 1,500 •I I 5,712,057Humboldt. 2,000 45 1,100 I I •l-H-l-H I I H ITTTTTT-i 5,355,028 Colusa. $mm 2,370 435 •H-l1,800 12,540,242 Plumas. 2,736 M_lH Ll I LLIJ I I I I IjTjT ■ 1 1 i i n i i i i i~n~n 290 . 1,926,154 Tehama. 2.S00 300 nriTTrrrLi 750 4.192,548 ■npmLiiHiMi jIlLLLLLLLLLLI iTlTT I iTnTi I I I I I I I I I I I I i'-J-La-J-i-l-L-1-'Biakiyou, 3,010 48 300 n ■ 2,051,307 JJJJJ.LLLLU iJ_LLLl 1 I 1 1 1 1 1 1 iTrn 111 1 1 rrrn i i i r ' ' ' ' ' ' I 'J NAMK. *«»San Luis^bispo. 3,160 CULTIVATED. 90 SOLD. 1,500 VALUATION. §1,137,570 ""LET] _ r-rm I I i i I I Santa Barbara. 3,5-10 ffl 90 1,300 4,479,829 Shasta. 4,600 1,800 H JT •l-l- ■•I-I'I'I'I'U^LLLlUJ1,963,320 lUJ u I I Lassen. 4,942 40 320 1,213,184 ■l-hl-l- •' : : ! i 1 ! : ' : f 1 1 1 II 1 1 1 1 1 1 II 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 > 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Tulare. 5,500 150 1,900 4.G94.250 l-l" 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Mill II 1 1 1 1 II III 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 l 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 l Inyo. 5,85 2 10 110 972.401 ki'i-i 1 1 1 IIIMMIM Mil 1 1 1 I 1 1 | 1 1 1 | | | 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 II 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 it 1 1 1 1 1 | | MUM 1 1 1 1 1 MINI 1 1 Los Angeles. 6,000 170 2,200 16,160,988 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 IT 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Modo 7,380 1,239,152 ! :£tttttff+H4fttt i-l-j-j-j-l -j-j— -L-L-Llj 1 1 1 1 1 1 rrmnriTi" LL Fresno. 8,750 110 «m ;■ 2,800 G,055,062 ■JMhlll ' ' ■ 1 • I -J I • I -M* LlLiL'jj. 'Ill ■ I • I J ■ I • I • I • j • I • I ■ I • I • hl'l'l- H'J 33333 • ■ • • - ■ 1 • 1 •'-•'•■- :.• bb ij jjjtit hi LLP jj 1 u 11 1 1 u ij. 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 mitu nil 1 iij JT I. LLJ U LLLLLfl LU I I LLLL ; : - l-LLLLLI I I I l IN LU I ! -! ! -H444-H ' -— '4-U-l > CO « lllllii JJ i'ii 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 j h Sau Bernardino. fffi: 23,472 S5 700 2,001,321 JJ I ITl JT jjti 1 1 r j.i IT JT XT JirrrrnTLLLLLG 1 1 1 rrrrn 1 1 1 u n -PJTT III Li - ------LTtl LQ LLLLUJI l - r ----——' ' ! ! ! ' rn mm ijjj Hi 1 1 1 I - - - -- - -P.- -P-I-Llij II L IJ LU 1 1 ' J I- 1 I U LI. I I LLLlTlTM I I UJ °ta 104,031 0,0.11 4||350 §578,839,214 ■■■■■■■■■■■■"■ManuuiiBPfcn

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SCH00L8 AND EDUCATIONAL ADVANTAGES. 77 EDUCATIONAL ADV California has 2,743 public schools, with an attendant-- of 144,805, and 216,464 children on the census roll. In the year 1878 -79 there m $2,285,732.38 paid ("teachers as salarits. Since the organization of f California as a State, she has paid for the support of schools $38,500,000 — nol a bad Bhowing 1'he educational system of the State has received much attention ami can; from those in authority. Our public schools and higher institutions of learning an- liberally endowed, and generally efficient. Tin: profession of teaching is held in high repute, and teachers command good salaries. We are justified, we think, in saying that the system of public schools established by the laws of California is in no respect inferior to the best in any other State in the Union. FIRST YANKEE SCHOOL-MASTER. In April, 1847, the first English school was opened in a smah shanty on the block bounded by Dupont, Broadway, Pacific and Stockton Streets. Here were collected from twenty to thirty pupils, who then comprised nearly all the children of the city. It was a private institution and was supported by tuition fees from the pupils, and by the contributions of the citizens. It was taught by Mr. Marsten, who is entitled to the honor of being the first Yankee school-master upon the Pacific Coast. Although he continued his school but a few months, he performed an important part as a pioneer in establishing our schools, which should cause his name to be held in grateful remembrance by every friend of education. THE PIONEER LADY TEACHER. In January, 1848, Mrs. Mary A. Case located in Santa Cruz and opened a school in her own house, and taught two terms, when the discovery of gold broke up her school by the removal of families. Mrs. Case was, in 1879, still living in Santa Cruz. She was a native of Connecticut, and came to California in 1847. Her husband, B. A. Case, died at Long Valley, California, in 1871. FIRST PUBLIC SCHOOL. Late in the fall of 1847, active measures were first taken by the citizens of San Francisco to organize a public school, which resulted in erecting a humble one-story school-house on the south-west part of Portsmouth Square, fronting on Clay Street, near where it joins Brenham Place. An engraving of this first public school-house in San Francisco has been preserved in the "Annals of San Francisco." The history of this old building is cherished by the early pioneers with many pleasing associtions. Here germinated every new enterprise ; here the town meetings and political conventions were held ; here, the churches first held their gatherings, and the first public amusements ■were given. After the discovery of gold it was deserted for 8choolbpurposeSl and was used as a Court House under Judge Almond. It was afterwards degraded into a public office and used as a station-house. It was demolished by the city in 1850. I in i In- 3d of April. 1848, the school was opened in the bllild> scribed, under the instruction of Mr. Thomas Douglass, now residing in San Jose, an able and zealous pioneer in the cause of education, lie was appointed teacher by the Board of School Trustees, at a salary of $1,000 per month. The population :it this time was 812, of whom sixty were children of a suitable age for attending school. Although it was a public school under the control of regularly elected officers, it was mainly supported by tuition from the pupils. The success and usefulness of this school were soon paralyzed by the great discovery of gold, which for a time depopulated the town, leaving the teacher nanus pupils, trustees and salary. He therefore closed his school and joined in the general exodus for the mines, the new El Dorado of untold wealth. In the general excitement and confusion which followed the first rush for the "diggings," the school enterprise was for a time abandoned. The education of the children, who were rapidly increasing from the flood of emigration pouring into San Francisco from every part of the world, was entirely neglected until the 23d of April, 1849, when the Rev. Albert Williams opened a school in his church. In October, 1849, Mr. J. C. Pel ton and wife opened a school in the basement of the Baptist Church, on Washington, near Stockton Street, and in July, 1850, the " Happy Valley School" was opened in a little dilapidated building, in what was then called "Happy Valley." THE STATE UNIVERSITY. This important institution is situated at Berkeley, Alameda County, and is endowed by the various gifts of Congress with Seminary, Building and Agricultural College lands; also with a State endowment from the sale of tide lands, which yields an annual income of $52,000. Its production fund is larger than that of the University of Michigan. It has an able corps of Professors and instructors, some of whom have a national reputation. The names of 336 students are upon its catalogue, distributed in the various departments of science and art. Its buildings and grounds are extensive, and for beauty of situation, or the thoroughness of its instruction in literature and science, it cannot be excelled. Its Medical Department is in the city of San Francisco. The University is free to both sexes. The Normal School, at San Jose, is one of the most admirably managed of our State Institutions. It has an excellent faculty and over 400 students. An additional Normal School is about to be erected at Los Angeles. California has, besides these State Institutions, fifteen colleges endowed or maintained by the different religious denominations.

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78 BATS, ,AKKS, AND .AVHUBLE^TKEAMS. DIMENSIONS OF CALIFOBNIA. Width on the north end, 216 miles; extreme extension from went to .,> il , 352 mil. ; average u-idth, about 235 miles; extension from north to BOnth. 656 miles. A direct line from the m , .,, ,,. ,. comer 0f the State to Fort Yuma, being the longest lin(. in th(. state, is 880 miles; a direct line from San Francisco to L„. ^geles, 342 miles; a direct line from San Francisco to San Diego, 451 miles. San Diego lies 350 miles south, and 28o miles east of San Francisco. Los Angeles lies 258 miles south, and 225 mil* east of San Francisco. Cape Mendocino, the most westerly point in the State, is 96 miles west of San Francisco and 185 miles north. California has an area of 164,981 square miles, or 100,947,840 acres, of which 80.000,000 acres are suited to some kind of profitable husbandry. It is four times greater in area than Cuba. It will male, four States as large as New York, which has a population of nearly 5,000,000. It will make five States the size of Kentucky, which has a population of 1,321,000. It will make 24 States the size of Massachusetts, having a population of 1 ,500,000. It has an area of 144 times as great as Rhode Island. It is four-fifths the size of Austria, and nearly as large as Francs each having a population of 30,000,000. It is nearly twice the size of Italy, with 27.000,000 inhabitants, and is one and one-half times greater than Great Britain and Ireland, having a population of 32,000,000. Its comparative, size is best shown by the diagram on page 76. California needs population— she is susceptible of sustaining millious where she now has thousands. With industry, economy, sobriety, and honesty of purpose, no man in this State, with rare exceptions, will fail of success in the ordinary pursuits of life. BAYS, HARBORS, ISLANDS, AND LAKES. California has a sea-coast extending the whole length of the State, amounting, following the indentations, to somewhat over 700 miles. The principal bays and harbors, beginning on the south, are San Diego, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Monterey, San Francisco, Tomales, Bodega, Humboldt, Trinidad and Cresent City Bay. San Francisco Bay, the most capacious and best protected harbor on the western coast of North America, is nearly fifty miles long (including its extension, San Pablo Bay,) and about nine miles wide. The entrance to the bay is through a strait about five miles long and a mile wide, and is named Chj}'sopylfe, or Golden Gate. There are few lakes worthy of mention in California. The largest is Tulare, in the southern part of the State, which is very shoal. It is about thirty-three miles long by twenty-two wide, though in the wet season it covers a much larger area. Owens, Kern, and Buena Vista are much smaller lakes, in the same vicinity. Lake Tahoe. in Placer County, thirteen hours from Sacramento by rail, is visited by the tourist, attracted by the wonders of the scenery, of tenev than the invalid ; has a pure mountain air with amost charming summer climate, there being no excessive heat and only an occasional and enjoyable thunder-storm. Here besides the lake and the streams, are the waters of mountain springs and hot and cold mineral springs. There is trout fishincr in the streams as well as in the lake, where a number of fish are taken-trout of several kinds, from a quarter of a pound to five pounds in weight, minnows, white fish, and several other sorts. Several of the beaches or bays of the lake are of interest, as Emerald and Carnelian Bays, carnelian stones beina picked up that are very pretty. The lake is more than 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, and is twenty-two by twelve miles in size. Its greatest measured depth is something over 1,500 feet, and this great depth makes the principal wonder of the lake. The water is fresh, varying from thirty-nine to sixty degrees in temperature, and the extreme cold of the depth, which prevents drowned bodies from decomposing and rising to the surface, has given rise to the erroneous belief that the water is not buoyant, and will not float any object. Donner Lake, near the scene of the Donner tragedy, is a small body of water much visited by tourists, situated near the eastern border of the State. Lake Mono, fourteen miles long from east to west and nine miles wide, lies in Mono County, east of the Sierra Nevada. The water, being saturated with various mineral substances, the chief of which are salt, lime, borax, and carbonate of soda, is intensely bitter and saline, and of such high specific gravity that the human body floats in it very lightly. No living thing except the larvje of a small fly and a small crustacean, .inhabits this lake, which is sometimes called the Dead Sea of California. The other lakes are: Clear, in Lake County, in the western part of the State, about ten miles long; and Klamath and Goose Lakes, lying partly in Oregon. CHIEF NAVIGABLE STREAMS. The Sacramento is about 370 miles long, and is navigable for large steamboats at all seasons to Sacramento, ninety miles from its mouth, or 120 miles from San Francisco, and for smaller craft to Red Bluff, 150 or 200 miles above Sacramento. The San Joaquin, about 350 miles long, is navigable for ordinary steamers to Stockton, and for small craft during the rainy season to the mouth of the Tulare Slough, about 150 miles. The Calaveras, Stanislaus, Tuolumne, and Merced empty into the San Joaquin. Tule and swamp lands line the banks of the river. The soil is rich and needs only to be protected against high waters, to equal any in the State for production. The tules are a sort of tall rush, an 1 in early times, fires swept over them as on a prairie. The effect is faintly indicated in our engraving on page 43

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THE TIMBER RESOURCES OP THE SEATE. 79 THK WATUBAL WOND1 B Among the many remarkable natural curiositl ifornia is f.lif: valley of the Yb Semite, This far-famed valley is IJ-0 mile ea I of San Francisco, and is a cation a mile wide and eight miles l.m^. Tlif excellent to.; and for tree-, of mammoth size Thesidesof the Sierra Nevada, to the height of 2,500 fi i ivered with oaks, manzanita and nub pine and above this, to a height of 8,000 feet, withd nseforests of pine, fir; cypress, hemlock, and other coniferous trees Dens.- forests of redwood exist on the coasl north of latitude thirty-seven degrees, chiefly in Bumboldf County; This timber fa used for fence posts, railroad ties, and furnishes lumber for all building purposes [t answers the same foi house material in California as Wisconsin and Michigan pine does in the Mississippi Valley. There is a lar^e amount of timber of the various species named in the mountains and valleys in the northern part of the State, from the Sierra Nevada Range to the ocean. The redwood, bearing a strong resemblance to the mammoth, frequently grows to a height of 300 feet, and a diameter of fifteen feet. These forests arc fully described in the local history of the County. White and live oak abound in large quantities on the west slope of the Coast Range, and in the intervening valleys south of latitude 37°, in the counties of Monterey, San Luis Obispo, and Santa Barbara. This wood is chiefly used for fuel and is of little value for building or fencing purposes. A great part of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys, the Colorado Basin, the cast slope of the Coast Mountains, and the Coast Range south of Point Conception, are treeless. The sugar pine is a large tree, and one of the most graceful of evergreens. It grows about 200 feet high and twelve feet in diameter. This wood grows in the Sierra Nevada, is free-splitting and valuable for timber. The yellow pine and white cedar are all large trees, growing more than 200 feet high and six or eight feet in diameter. The story is told of two men who were engaged in the cuttine of one of these immense trees into logs, with a cross-cut saw. After they had sawed themselves out of sight of each other, one of them became impressed with the belief that the saw was not running as easily as it ought, wdien he crawled on top of the tree to remonstrate with his partner, whom he discovered to be fast asleep. The visitor to California has not seen it all until he has spent a week in the deep recesses of a redwood forest. It is then, standing beside the towering monarch of the forest, that a man will realize his utter insignificance, and how inestimably ephemeral he is compared with many other of God's handiworks. He looks upon a tree that stood when Christ was yet in his youth, the circles of whose growth but mark the cycles of time almost since the first man was, and on whose tablets might have been written the records of the mighty men of old.

80 CENSUS OF THE STATE BY COUNTIES. POPULATION AND ITS INCBEASE. fo 1831, the -ntire population of the State was estimated at 23,025, of whom 18,688 wen- Indian converts. During the years 1843, '44, '45 and '4G a great many emigrants from the Onited Stated settled in California. In January, 184-7, the white population was estimated at from 12,000 to 15,000. Its population in 1850 was probably 130,000. The population of the State in L880 was 858,864; There are, on the average, six inhabitants to the square mile, but the distribution of the settlement over the State Is unequal. Thus, San Francisco has about 8,000 people to the square mile, while those portions of San Diego and San Bernardino Counties in the Colorado Desert and inclosed basin, with an area of 14,000 square miles, have at least seven square miles to each white inhabitant. The counties of San Francisco, San Mateo, Santa Clara, Contra Costa, San Joaquin, Sacramento, Yolo, Solano, Napa, Sonoma, ami Marin, fronting on San Francisco, San Pablo, and Suisun Bays, and the deltas of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, all within thirty miles of Mount Diablo, and distinctly visible from its summit, have 580,

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FIRST DISCOVERIES BY LAND AND SEA. M Discoveries and Settlements. First Exploring Parties; Rush for Trinity Mines by Sea and Land; Rapid Increase in Population; Discovery and Naming of Bays and Rivers; Narratives of L. K. Wood, Lieut. Ottinger, E. H. Howard, and Other Explorers; Gold Bluff Excitement, Etc*., Etc. It is but little more than thirty years since the firsi white foot pressed the soil about Humboldt Bay, and left any definite record of its visit. Whether at anytime before the visit of the discovery party of L. K. Wood, whose narrative we shall give in full, Humboldt Bay was ever visited by white people, ia not definitely known. But, from our investigations, there eeems no doubt but what the shores of the hay were trod by ,.,„, trappers and hunters of early -lays. This region was thru i„ a state of nature, abounding with deer, antelope, elk, and bear. The streams were alive with beaver, and other furbearing animals, FIRST WHITE PERSONS IN HUMBOLDT COUNTY. L827.— Doubtless the Jededioh S. Smith partj were the first Americans who ever entered the present limits of Humboldt County. He was the first white man to lead a party overlnn(, fco ( lalifomia. In the spring of L825, he led a company of forty meninto the Sacramento Valley He collected a large quantity of furs, and established his headquarters on the American River, near Folsom. In 1826, he trapped in the San Joaquin • In L827, he started with the company for the Columbia River He passed through what is now Yolo County, "up t^ Cache Creek, and reached the ocean near the mouth of Russian River, and followed the coast line as far as Umpqua River," near Tape Arago, when all (forty) but himself, Darnel Prior, and Richard Laughlin. were treacherously murdered by the Indians, and all their traps and furs were lost. These men escaped to Fort Vancouver and related their ^adventure to Dr. McLaughlin, the agent of the Hudson Bay Company. Smith proposed to the agent that it he would send a party to punish the Indians and recover his property he would conduct them to the rich trapping grounds he had iust left- and for this reason as well as because it was the policy of that corporation never to let an outrage go unpunished, an expedition was sent out, which chastised the savages and recovered most of the stolen property. r, while the balan tl fall b\ the route Smith ; md trapp 'l "ii the ■ ■> reams " After Sml continued Ihwesl through Utah and Nevada, and entered the San Joaquin Valley through Walker's Pass. Tin j trapped up the valley and then passed ova to tiu coast and up to Vancouver, by the route Smith bad formerly traveled." h, the spring of 1832, fifichael Laframbois entered the San, >nto Valley at the bead of a party of Hudson Bay Company's trappers, "visiting the streams as far south as Tulare Lake, and returned over the usual routi along tfie coast to Fort Vancouver the following spring." There can be no other conclusion than this, that the Smith part) musl have visited Humboldt Bay. They could not have well avoided it. No historian ever accompanied these parties, :m,l their reports were only given at headquarters in a general sort of a way. and so no definite account is given us of the , ,;|1.( Poute traveled. But after reaching the month of Rus sian River, it is hardly probable they followed the coast or attempted to do so. Their business would have led them to some stream bearing north; so we. will suppose thej reached the head-waters of Eel River, and thus Eollowed down that stream to tl cean, and thence to Humboldt Bay. These several parlies mentioned doubtless trapped the Eel, Trinity, and Klamath Rivers. The Russians were at Ft. Ross thirty years, and it is probable that they visited Humboldt Bay, but this is only a supposition. I.AsT RESTING-PLACE OF THE PIONEER. Captain Smith sold his interest in the Rocky -Mountain Company in 1830, ami, in 1831, was treacherously killed by Indians while digging for water in the dry bed of the Cimeron River, near Taos, New Mexico, and was buried there by his ,, rcipanions. This is the last resting-place of the pioneer overland traveler to the beautiful valley of California, and of the first American who ever gazed upon the grand forests of Humboldt, or trod its grass-carpeted valleys. But whether these parties actually visited Humboldt Bay is not positively known; and we must give credit to the discovery party of 1849, whose very interesting adventures and discoveries are so graphically described by L. K. Wood. SETTLEMENT BY GOLD SEEKERS. To what is generally known as the Trinity excitement, we must look for the opening up and settlement of this region. The Trinity mines and the anxiety to get to them, led to many expeditions along the coast, the discovery of Trinidad and Humboldt Bays, the mouth of the Klamath, and Salmon

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82 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS. and Scott Rivera, bringing ands into this region, and transforming it in one year from a beautiful wilderness to the home of civilization, ami making its hills resound to the nnaccu tomed ound of the axe, the rattle of the rocker, the ihoul of 'I,, packer, and ihe merry laugh of the miner. In 1858, -Maj. Peareon B. Reading, the old trapper and pioneer ' lalifornian, who Bettlod upon his ranch in Cottonwood < Ireek, Sha ita « bunty, in 1847, gave the following account of the first mining in northern California. At the time he Damed if, Trinity River was not an unknown stream to the trappers of the Budson Bay Company, who were familiar with every stream <>! consequence in this portion of the State; that they had ever given it a name, however, is uncertain; if so, it is unknown to history: — DISCOVERY OF TRINITY RIVER. "In the spring of 1845, I left Sutter's Fort for the purpose of trapping the waters of Upper California and Oregon. My party consisted of thirty men, with 100 head of horses. " In the month of May, [ crossed the mountains from the Sacramento River, near a point now called the Backbone; in about twenty miles' travel reached the banks of a large stream, which I called the Trinity, supposing it led into Trinidad Bay, as marked on the old Spanish charts. I remained on tin- river about three weeks, engaged in trapping beaver and otter; found the Indians very numerous, but friendly disposed. On leaving the Trinity I crossed the mountains at a point which led me to the 'Sacramento River, about ten miles below the Soda Springs. I then passed into the Shasta and Klamath settlements, prosecuting my hunt. Having been successful, returned in the fall to Sutter's Fort. "In the month of duly. 1848, J crossed the mountains of the Coast Range, at the head of middle Cottonwood Creek; struck the Trinity at what is now called Reading's Bar; prospected for two -lays, and found the bars rich in gold; returned to my house on Cottonwood, and in ten days fitted out an expedition for mining purposes; crossed the mountains where the trail passed from Shasta to Weaver. •• My party consisted of three white men, one Delaware, one Walla Walla, one Chinook, and about sixty Indians from the Sacramento Valley. With this force I worked the bar bearing my mime. 1 had with me 120 head of cattle, with an abundant supply of other provisions. After about six weeks' work, parties came in from Oregon, who at once protested against my Indian labor. I then left the stream and returned to my home, where I have since remained, in the enjoyment of the tranquil life of a farmer." Mr. Reading has, no doubt, placed his mining expedition one year too early, and should have said in 1849, or else he went back again the next year, something that his language implies, though it does not positively state he did not do. Oregonians could not have disturbed him in 1848, as news of the gold discovery did not reach Oregon until September of that year. At all events he did go to Trinity River in the summer of 1849, for a report of his trip was given by the Placer Times of Sacramento in August of that year. EXPLORATION OF TRINITY RIVKR. In June 1849, Major Reading started from his ranch with a small party for the purpose of exploring this stream. They went up Clear Creek and then crossed the mountains to the river, eoing up the stream some distance and finding gold in abundance. About the first of August they returned to the Sacramento Valley, and reported that they had made forty dollars per day to the man, for the few days they had worked. They also laid considerable stress on the fact that in crossing the summit they had camped one night above the snow line. TRINITY MINES WORKED IN 1849. The effect of such a statement as this can well be imagined. Emigrants were then coming clown from Oregon, or entering the upper end of the Sacramento Valley by the Lassen route from across the plains, and while most of these preferred to go on to the well-known mines farther south, a few were venturesome enough to cross the high mountain to Trinity River. In this way quite a number of miners gathered and worked on the banks of the Trinity in the fall of 1849. The report sent out and brought out by these men created quite a fever of excitement, but the fear of the rigors of winter were so great that few dared to go into the mountains until spring, and the majority of those who were on the river in the fall went back to the valley for the same reason. MINERS ATTEMPT TO FIND TRINIDAD. The error made by Major Reading in supposing that the river he had named Trinity flowed into the old Trinidad Bay of the Spanish explorers was communicated to others and became the general opinion. It was then conceived that the best route to the mines must be to go to Trinidad Bay in a vessel and thence up the river to the mines. All that was known of the bay was the record of the explorers and the indication of such a place at an indefinite point on the northern coast. To find Trinidad Bay, then, became the next and the all-absorbing question. It had been discovered by an exploring expedition, consisting of a frigate commanded by Bruno Ezerta and a sloop under Juan de la Quadra Y. Bodega, on the eleventh of June, 1775. This was the Sunday of the Holy Trinity, and the bay was named Trinidad in consequence, and was fully mentioned on page eighteen. As early as March, 1848, a call was made in San Francisco for a public meeting to take steps to re-discover and explore Trinidad Bay, to see what kind of a harbor it presented and what was the character of the country tributary to it. The announcement of the gold discovery at Sutter's Mill, however,

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FIRST DISCOVERIES BY LAND AND SKA. 83 put an end to all .such designs, and the matter lay in abe until the reports from the Trinity Mini n • ived it. DISCOVERY OF HI MBOLDT BAY. In the month of November, 1849, two parties left tin- Trinity Mines to discover tin desired harbor. One of these went over to the Sacramento Galley, and down bo San Francisco, where they commenced fitting out ■■< ea expe ,lit i,,ii. Tin' othej party followed down tli.' Trinity to the Bald Mills, and tl.cn crossed over to the coast, thus failing to discover the fact that the Trinity did imt empty into tlir ocean direct. Tin' following very interesting narrative of this expedition was prepared by L. K. Wood for the ffumbolcH Times, and was first printed in 1856. It was afterward revised and printed in the West Coast Signal, copies of which were furnished iis by Jonathan Clark, Esq.:— "The month of October, 1849, found me on Trinity River, at ,i, point now called" Rich Bar," without provisions, poorly clad, and worse than all in this condition at the commencement of a ( lalifornia winter. The company at this place numbered some forty persons, the most of whom were in much the same situation and condition as myself. Near this bar was an Indian ranch, from which, during the prevalence of the rain that was now pouring down as if in contemplation of a second flood, we received frequent visits. From them we learned that the ocean was distant from this place not more than eight days' travel, and that there was a large and. beautiful bay, surrounded by fine and extensive prairie lands. The rainy season, having now to all appearances set in, alternate rain and snow continually falling, a scanty supply of provisions for the number of persons now here, and scarcely a probability of the stock being replenished before the rains should cease, the idea was conceived of undertaking an expedition, with the view to ascertain whether the bay, of which the Indians had given a description, in reality existed. JOSIAH GREGG CHOSEN LEADER. Among the first and most active in getting up and organiz ing the expedition, was a gentleman by the name of Josiah Gregg, a physician by profession, formerly of Missouri. He had with him all the implements necessary to guide us through the uninhabited, trackless region of country that lay between us and the point to be sought. No one seemed better qualified I , , guide and direct an expedition of this kind than he. Upon him, therefore, the choice fell to take command. The number of persons that had expressed a desire to join the company up to this time, were twenty-four. The day fixed upon by the Captain for setting out was the 5th day of November. In the meantime whatever preparations were necessary, and in our power, were made. The Captain had negotiated with the chief of the rancheria for two ot his men to act as guides Nothing more remained to be done — all were anxiou-ly awaiting tin- arrival of the day G upon, and a cessation of the rain, which falling in torrents. The .lav of departure arrived, but with it came no change in the wt a \e an occasional change from rain to snow. Many of the party now began to exhibit marked \\ mptoms ol : ire to withdraw and abandon the expedition. The two Indian guides refused to go, assigning a- a rea torn that the great. Btorm we had experienced on the river, had been a continuous snow-storm in the mountains, and that the depth of the snow would present an insuperable barrier to our progress, and endanger the safety of the whole party to attempt the passage. This was sufficient for those who had manifested a desire to withdraw ; and the number of the company was speedily reduced to eight men, including the Captain whose determination was only the more firmly fixed, because JO large a number had abandoned the expedition. NAMES or THE EXPLORERS. The company now consisted of the following persons: Dr. Josiah Gregg, Captain; Thomas Sebring, of Ottawa, Illinois; David A. Buck, of New York; J. B. Truesdell, of Oregon; Van Dusen; Charles C. Southard, of Boston; Isaac Wilson, of Missouri, and L. K. Wood, of Mason County, Kentucky. Owincr to this great diminution in the number of the party, it became necessary before setting out to examine the condition of our commissary department, from which it was ascertained that the stock of provisions had suffered even greater diminution than had the company in point of numbers. The articles found were flour, pork, and beans, and of these scarcely sufficient for ten days' rations. Notwithstanding this, an advance was determined upon, and, accordingly, we broke up camp. Here commenced an expedition, the marked and prominent features of which were constant and unmitigated toil, hardship, privation and suffering. Before us, stretching as far as the eye could reach, lay mountains, high and rugged, deep valleys and difficult canons, now filled with water by the recent, heavy rains. After leaving Trinity River we struck up the mountain, in the direction indicated by the Indians that were to have been our guides. The ascent, at any time tedious, was now particularly difficult. Without any other trail or pathway than an occasional elk or Indian trail through the dense stunted undergrowth, the crround for a long distance up the mountain completely saturated with water from the great quantity of rain that had fallen, our ascent, as might be expected, was not only tedious and difficult, but extremely fatiguing. Before reaching the summit, however, the character of the ascent was materially changed. Snow had taken the place of slippery mud, which had completely obliterated all there was of a trail, its depth increasing

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84 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS. in proportion to the altitude gained. Wenowhad to grope .mi- way a- best we might , -lowh and Bilently we continued to ascend bhi beepesl part of the mountain in order bo (shorten the distance. At length we reached the summit, Our first glances were ca i in ili- direction indicated to us as our course. As I gazed upon the wild and rugged country spread out before us, and that all these snow-crested mountains lay between ua and the place of our destination, a Feeling of dread came over me. I could hardly refrain from giving expression to the feelings of doubt with which I was impressed, as to the result of the expedition we had undertaken, but the time for reconsideration had passed, CAMPING IN' EARLY DAYS. As it was about sunset when the summit was gained, preparations were made for going into camp. Now, "camping "in < laliforhia is not precisely the same thing implied by that term in other countries. It consists of nothing more than taking your saddle and blankets from the animal and depositing them on the first convenient spot of Mother Earth, or, as applied to us this night, on snow. To have a choice in ground on which bo camp would be deemed fastidious, and to form a hut from bushes a foolish expenditure of time and labor. Unpacking animals and getting supper were the things first to be attended to; this being done, our blankets were spread, and in them we passed the first night of our expedition. At an early hour in the morning, having breakfasted and packed our animals, we resumed our journey, descending the mountain, keeping as near our course as the nature of the country would permit. It would have been to us a source of some encouragement, if when we had attained the summit of a mountain, or mountain ridge, our course would have permitted us to continue on such ridge — but the case was otherwise. The ridges or mountains that constitute and are denominated the Coast Range, are nearly parallel with the coast; therefore, as the general direction of the coast is nearly north and south, and the mountain ridges the same, and our course nearly west, we were compelled to pass over a constant succession of mountains, now over the top of one, then through the deep valley beneath, and again climbing the steep side of another. Nothing beyond the ordinary routine of constant traveling by day, and stretching our wearied limbs upon the snow or cold wet ground by night, occurred during the succeeding four days worthy of notice. Towards the evening of the fifth day, while passing over a sterile, rugged, rocky country, we heard what appeared to be the rolling and breaking of the surf upon the distant sea shore, or the roaring of some water-fall. A halt was therefore determined upon, and we resolved to ascertain the cause of this before proceeding further, and here pitched our camp. Early next morning Mr. Buck left camp alone, for the purpose above expressed, and before night returned, bringing with him a quantity of sand, which from its appearance, as well as that of the place where it was gathered, he thought indicated the presence of gold; but not being on a gold hunting expedition, we thought it the better discretion to use all possible dispatch in reaching the coast. The result of his search was that he found a stream at the foot of a rugged descent, whose now swollen waters rushed with terrific speed and violence. This, then, was what we heard. The gleam of hope that for the moment animated us was soon dispelled. This stream is the South Fork of Trinity. Having ascertained that it was impossible to effect a crossing at or near this place, we continued on down, keeping as near as it was possible, until we came to its junction with the Trinity River. Here we succeeded in crossing. Upon gaining the opposite shore, we had a steep bank to ascend. As we reached the top of this bank, we came suddenly upon an Indian rancheria. To us this was entirely unexpected, and undoubtedly not less so to them. Had it not been for the strange, I might say ludicrous, scene that followed immediately upon their discovering us, I would not vouch but that some if not most of the company, would have betrayed signs of timidity, if not actual fear, for our fire-arms had been rendered completely unfit for use, from constant exposure to the rain, which continued through the whole of this day. Knowing this we were fully conscious that should they meditate any harm towards us, we could make but a sorry show at a defense. A moment's consideration, however, taught us that it was not necessary, nor was it likely, that these savages should know our precise situation, and that it was our policy to give them to understand we were in no fear of them. INDIANS' FIRST VIEW OF WHITE MEN. But the scene that followed for the moment wholly divested our minds of all apprehension of danger, for as soon as they saw us, men, women and children, fled in the wildest confusion, and in every direction; some plunging headlong into the river, not venturing to look behind them until they had reached a considerable elevation upon the mountain on the opposite side of the river, while others sought refuge in the thickets and among the rocks, leaving everything behind them. So soon as they had stopped in their flight, those who were yet in view we endeavored by signs to induce to return, giving them to understand as best we could, that we intended them no harm; but for the present it was all to no purpose. They had never before seen a white man, nor had they received any intelligence of our coming; and to their being thus suddenly brought in contact with a race of beings so totally different in color, dress, and appearance, from any they had ever seen or heard of, is attributable the overwhelming fear they betrayed. Our stock of provisions was now nearly or quite exhausted, and what portion of our journey had been accomplished we

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PIBST DISC0VEKIE8 BY LAND AND SEA. 85 were of cour»e entire]} ignorant; one thing;, however, was apparent, that from this forward, upon Providence and oui good rifles our dependence for food musl rest Having failed fcO induce the Indiana to return t'> their rancheria, ami ol in fjr that they ha«l considerable quantities of almon in their hute, which they had obtained and cured foi theii ub i I □ during the winter, we helped ourselves to as much as was wanted, leaving in its place a quantity of vension that bad been killed by some of our party a short time previous, invoking as a justification for so doing tin' old adage, "a fair exchange -ih no robbery," and pressed forward on our journey with all diligence. We had hoped that the Indians would not care to become better acquainted with us, and would allow us to pass on unmolested. Imagine our surprise, then, when as we wore about camping for tin- night, there came marching towards us some seventy-five or eighty warriors, their faces and bodies painted' looking like so many demons, and armed ami prepared for battle. There needed no calling a counsel of war on our part to arrange plans to determine the course to pursue in the emergency that now presented itself to us. Our guns were available at this moment for no other purpose than to use as clubs, for the reasons before stated. The only alternative, therefore, left to us, was to assume an air of perfect indifference at their approach. This we did, but when they had advanced to within one hundred yards of us we by signs forbid their coming nearer, and in obedience to our command they halted. Two of our company now advanced towards them, holding up to their view, beads and other fancy articles which we fortunately had in our possession. With these they appeared highly pleaded, and were persuaded that it was neither our desire or intention to disturb or injure them, and soon became quiet ami apparently friendly. INDIANS' FIRST KNOWLEDGE OF FIRE-ARMS. They represented to us that their people were very numerous, and seemed desirous of impressing upon our minds that we were in. their power and at their mercy, and in order to make this more evident they assured us that at any moment they wished they could kill the whole company. I need scarce tell you that we lost little time in disabusing their minds on this subject. It was a matter not only of surprise but evident curiosity with them, to know how so small a number of men could successfully resist a force so vastly superior. The secret was in our weapons. The use of these, however, they could not understand. In order to accomplish our object, we gave them to understand that one of our guns would kill as many of them at a single shot, as could stand one behind the other. This however, did not seem to satisfy them-they seemed disposed to doubt the correctness of our representations. As an evidence of this, they insisted upon our giving them an opportunity of witnessing the •' " mark. This v. desiring bo attempt skill with -mi- that perhaps would require fifteen minutes to 1 to gratify them the next morning. Pi adence and a reasonal keep a careful watch during the night; notwithstanding this, and the fad thai some of tin- ipanv felt little inclined to leep, one of these expert thieves, aided by the pitchy darkness of the night, crept stealthily to the spot where wi encamped, and took from beneath the blankets a Colt's revolver, without detection— to the surprise of all and particularly the loser, who, by the way, was one of those who were so little disposed to sleep. At the first glimpse of dawn we were prepared for the start, but not, however, in time to avoid our engagement made the evening before; for, as if anticipating our intention, they, together With a host of their women and children, as early made their appearance. We proceeded without delay to satisfy their curiosity and fulfill our promise. Handing a piece of paper, al out two and a half inches in diameter, to one of the Indians, directing him to place the same upon a tree about sixty paces distant, they in the meantime having arranged themselves on either side the shot was made. Not expecting any report, they were completely terror-stricken, particularly the women and children, who set up a terrible yelling, at the same time scattering in every direction. After looking about them and discovering that none of their number had been injured, they at length returned, and being curious to see what effect the gun produced, approached the tree and examined the paper, which the ball had perforated, and the tree where the same had entered and disappeared. They now seemed disposed to treat us with greater respect than they had done. Taking advantage of the impression created upon their minds by what they had just witnessed, we endeavored to fasten upon them the conviction that our small company were able to cope with all they could bring against us, and told them that the force of a ball thrown from one of our guns, and the amount of execution it would do, was as much greater, in proportion, than that of an arrow shot from one of their bows, as the report of one was louder than the other. THE JOURNEY RESUMED. It had been our intention to follow the river down, although its course being from this point northwest, was not in the direction we desired to take. Against this, however, the Indians cautioned us, asserting that there were numerous tribes scattered along the river to its mouth, who would certainly oppose our passing through their country, besides on being made to understand the object we had in view, they informed us that our best route, both in point of distance and on account of the Indians, was to leave the river and strike westward.

86 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS. This advice, we, upon the whole, thought the most prudent to follow, and accordingly commenced the ascent of the mountain that now lay in our path. The night of the second day after leaving the river, having pitched our camp, we set about preparing a supper. I would not consume the time in detailing so minutely these unimportant items, but a portion of the material of that night's meal, although a morsel delicate and palatable in comparison with some of which we partook later in our journey, and it being the first time within my experience where necessity had reduced me to a like extremity, it made an impression upon my mind which to-day is as fresh as if it occurred but yesterday. Our stock of flour was exhausted ; the almost continual rain, however, had so saturated our entire camp equipage — the flour among the rest — and there had formed on the inner surface of the sacks in which it had been carried, a kind of paste which the dampness had soured and moulded. This paste was carefully peeled off, softened with water, and equally divided among the party — when each one, after the same had been submitted to a process of hardening before the fire, devoured his portion with an avidity that would have astonished and shocked mortals with appetites more delicate than ours. Nothing now remained of the stock of provisions that constituted our outfit — flour, pork, beans — all were gone. The night of the 13th of November, the eighth day, we were compelled to retire to our blankets supperless. Our animals, however, had been without feed for the previous two days, but were now luxuriating in fine grass, which fact tended to render our situation the more supportable, for preservation of our animals, next to food for ourselves, was of the highest importance, because upon.them we depended for the packing of our blankets and provisions, when fortunate enough to find any of the latter. PROPOSITION TO RETURN OVERRULED. During the succeeding day, a halt was several times called to consider the proposition submitted by some to return; but as often as it was made it was overruled, upon the belief that the coast could certainly be reached in much less time than it would require to return to the river. After picking our way the whole of this day through an almost inpenetrable forest, we came to a small prairie. This we reached about sunset, worn down with fatigue, and feeling but too acutely the painful sensations occasioned by a long abstinence from food. Here we determined to remain awhile, to hunt for something upon which to subsist. On leaving the South Fork of the Trinity, we had hoped by this time to have gained the sea-shore, but in this expectation we were doomed to disappointment. The dim outline of the distant mountains still marked the horizon, the same as when our first glance was cast in the direction of our route, upon reaching the summit of the first mountain. In the morning all the party, save a guard for the camp, started out in search of food, and after a short hunt succeeded in killing several deer. A quantity of venison steak broiled or cooked in the ashes, soon appeased the extreme hunger from which we were suffering. Here we remained several days for the purpose of recovering our nearly exhausted strength. During our stay at this place, we cured a quantity of venison with which, upon resuming our journey, we packed the animals, and proceeded on foot ourselves, thinking that by so doing we could certainly take sufficient to last, if not until we should get through, at least until more could be obtained. But no; on we toiled, faithfully and constantly, until the last of the venison was consumed, and the first, and second, and third day of fasting came and passed. SUFFERING FOR WANT OF FOOD. During all this time our animals suffered intensely from want of food. The only .kind that could be obtained for them was leaves, and in places even these could not be procured only by cutting down trees. Two of them, however, were too far reduced to go further, and we were compelled to leave them behind. Again we had the good fortune to reach a piece of mountain prairie where we found an abundance of game for ourselves, and plenty of grass for the animals. At this place we remained three days, collecting and preparing meat for use while traveling. We had now two animals less in number, and consequently were obliged to increase the loads of those remaining in order to pack sufficient to keep soul and body together for a reasonable length of time, for as when we left one camping place, when or where another would be found was of course uncertain, and to pack our provisions ourselves was a thing out of the question, in our present condition. Having prepared as large a quantity of meat as our animals could carry, on we went. Disappointment seemed to be our constant companion. Without following us day after day in our zigzag course, and detailing the occurrences that transpired, suffice it to say ten days passed away without being favored with the sight of any living thing that could be made available or useful for food. Again was our stock of provisions exhausted. For several days we subsisted upon a species of nut resembling the acorn, but far more bitter and unpalatable. The only way that they could be used was by roasting them in the fire until crisp and dry. A dose of these was found to be from six to ten, and to be taken about every fifteen minutes — a larger dose or oftener was sure to operate as an emetic. Our drink was for a greater part of the time, a tea made of yerba buena—an herb that resembles mint. It seemed that each scene of toil and suffering which we had been compelled to undergo after leaving these recruiting places— that were to us like oases to the traveler crossing the sandy desert — was but the

FIRST DISCOVERIES BY LAND AXi) .SKA 8"i prelude to another of a worse and more trying character. Not one was without its quota of hardship, privation, and almost (starvation. ELK, DEER, AND GRIZZLIES, At length we reached another opening in this world-wide forest, and without first selecting a camping place, as was usual with uh, we hastened to search for food. We ascended a rocky eminence that overlooked the country for a considerable distance around. Upon gaining the summit one of the most attractive and inviting scenes opened to our view. On one side were feeding little knots of deer, on -another and nearer to um were a large herd of elk, and still in another direction both were to be seen. After a few moments' consultation, we determined to attack the elk. and accordingly separated in order to approach them from opposite directions. Scarcely a half hour had elapsed, before I heard the report of a rifle, and two more in quick succession. From the direction I supposed it to be Van Duzen, and from the rapid succession in which the shots were tired, I was fearful that some danger had befallen him, and immediately hastened to his assistance. I shall not soon forget the scene that was here presented to me. There stood Van Duzen reloading his rifle; near by lay three grizzly bears, two dead and the third with his back broken. Two others stood near by, grinning and snarling in a most unamiable manner, looking first upon their fallen companions and then upon us. As this was my first introduction to Bruin, and the meeting being so sudden and unexpected, I hesitated a moment whether to approach and become better acquainted, or remain a spectator. There was a certain something in their appearance that involuntarily brought to mind the many tales 1 had heard related of their ferocity, when disturbed, and particularly when wounded. I, however, concluded to venture a shot at one of them, and with that intention advanced towards them. Van Duzen perceiving this, called on me to stop, fearing that we might get into trouble. Heedless of his caution, I approached slowly, intently watching their movements, until within fifteen steps of one of them when I stopped and fired. The shot was a fatal one, the shaggy monster fell, with a howl, dead upon the ground. At the same moment Wilson, whom the frequent firing had likewise attracted to the spot, sent a ball through the heart of the remaining bear with a similar result. This you will say was pretty good shooting, to kill five grizzly bears with as many shots out of one band. But it is nevertheless true. As for myself I can say without boasting -although it was my first experience in hunting this kind of game, and although I was conscious of the fact, that should my shot fail to be a fatal one, the bear would in all probability be upon me before I could get ten steps from the place where I stood-that I felt indifferent to danger. Our situation had become so desperate, and the conviction fast settling upon our minds that each day passed in the mountains lessened the probability of reaching any settlement in safety, that recklessness and indifference had become a second nature to ma Our attention had been so complet ly engrossed in the encounter with the grizzlies, that the band of elk were forgotten, and We lost the opportunity of getting any of them. However, l>efore night we succeeded in bringing several deer into camp. At this place we remained five days, feasting and fattening on bear meat, and preparing venison for future Our progress up to this time had been very slow. The distance traveled per day did not exceed an average of seven miles. The appearance of the country now seemed to change, the mountain ridges were less high and abrupt than those over which we had passed, but much more densely covered with timber. Our belief now was that twelve miles further travel would bring us, if not to the coast, at least. to a more level country, when our advance would be more rapid and attended with less difficulty and suffering. We therefore resumed our journey with lighter hearts and more buoyant hopes. Our calculation of the distance to the coast or valley, subsequently proved to be not far from correct. DENSE REDWOOD FOREST ENTERED. The redwood forests, however, through which we had to pass, were more dense and difficult to penetrate than any before, consequently our progress was in proportion retarded. Dr. Gregg frequently expressed a desire to measure the circumference of some of these giants of the forest, and occasionally called upon some one of us to assist him. Not being in the most amiable state of mind and feeling at this time, and having neither ambition to gratify nor desire to enlighten the curious world, we not unfrequently answered his calls with shameful abuse. His obstinate perseverence, however, in one or two instances, resulted in success. One redwood tree was measured whose diameter was found to be twenty-two feet, and it was no unusual thing to find these trees reaching the enormous height of 300 feet. This may excite incredulity abroad, but trees have since been found in this redwood forest, of much greater dimensions. Through this forest we could not travel to exceed two miles a day. The reason of this was the immense quantity of fallen timber that lay upon the ground in every conceivable shape and direction, and in very many instances one piled upon another so that the only alternative left us was literally to cut our way through. To go around them was often as impossible as to w over them. We were obliged, therefore, constantly to keep two men ahead with axes, who, as occasion required, would chop into and slab off sufficient to construct a sort of platform by means of which the animals were driven upon the lo^and forced to jump off on the opposite side. There was not the least si°-n indicative of the presence of any of the animal creation; indeed it was almost as impenetrable for them as for

88 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY (.SOLD HUNTERS. us, and doubtless was never resorted to save for purposes of shelter. WELCOMI ROAB OF THE OCEAN. On the evening of the thirl «lay from our bear camp, as we called it, our ears were greeted with the welcome sound of the surf rolling and heating upon the sea-shore.- There was no doubt or mistake about it this time. The lofty tree tops caught i he sound, which the deep stillness of a night in the forest rendered the more plainly audible, and echoed it back to our attentive ears. The following morning, Messrs. Wilson and Van Duzen propoaed to go to the coast in advance of the company, and at the same time to mark out the best route for the animals; to which proposition all agreed, and accordingly they left camp. In ih« evening of the same day they returned, bringing the glad tidings that they had reache 1 th e sea-shore, and that it was not more than six miles distant. At an early hour in the morning we resumed our journey with renewed spirits and courage. For three long, weary .lavs did we toil in these redwoods. Exhaustion and almost starvation, had reduced the animals to the last extremity. Three had just died, and the remainder were so much weakened ami reduced, that it constituted no small part of our labor and annoyance in assisting them to get up when they had fallen, which happened every time they were unfortunate enough to stumble against the smallest obstacle that lay in their path, and not one single effort would they make to recovei their feet, until that assistance came. At length we issued from this dismal forest prison, in which we had so long been shut up, into the open country, and at the same instant in full view of that vast world of water — the Pacific Ocean. PACIFIC OCEAN REACHED AT LAST. - Never shall I forget the thrill of joy and delight that animated me as I stood upon the sandy barrier that bounds and restrains those mighty waters. It seemed like meeting some dear old friend, whose memory, with joy, I had treasured during long years of separation, and as the well-spent surf glided upon the beach, bathing my very feet, a thousand recollections, like magic, flooded my mind. I felt as though there was yet some hope of deliverance from these sufferings. Our appetites, having again been sharpened by more than two days' fasting, soon awakened us from our pleasing reveries, and reminded us of the necessity of immediately going in search for food. Not long after we had separated for that purpose, Van Duzen shot a bald eagle, and Southard a raven, which was devouring a dead fish thrown upon the beach by the surf. These they brought into camp, and all, eagle, raven, and half-devoured fish, were stewed together for our supper, after partaking of which we retired to our blankets and enjoyed a good night's rest. Our prospects for a meal the next day were anything but flattering Dr. Gregg therefore requested me to return to my mule which had fallen down the day before and been left to die, and take out his heart and liver and bring them to camp. I accordingly went, but judge of my surprise, when approaching the spot where I had left him, to find him quietly feeding. I determined for once not to obey my orders, and instead thereof, drove him into camp. LITTLE RIVER DISCOVERED. The point at which we struck the coast was at the mouth of a small stream now known by the name of Little River. From this point we pushed on northward, following the coast about eleven miles, when a small lake (Big Lagoon) arrested our progress. Finding it impossible to proceed further without a«ain encountering the redwood forest, which we were not in the least inclined to do, it was determined that we should retrace our steps and proceed south, following the coast, to San Francisco, if such a course were possible. Traveling south about eight miles, we made a halt at a point or headland, which we had passed on our. way up from where we first struck the coast. This we called " Gregg's Point," and is now known as Trinidad Head. During our journey over the mountains, the old Doctor took several observations in order to prevent, as much as possible, a departure from the general course given us by the Indians. As we advanced, and our toil and sufferings accumulated, we gradually cultivated a distaste for such matters, and at an early day regarded his scientific experiments with indifference, while later in our journey they were looked upon with contempt. It was not unusual, therefore, for us to condemn him in most measured terms, for wasting his time and energies about that which would neither benefit him nor us in the least, or be of any service to others. From an observation taken on the plateau, where the town of Trinidad is now situated, this point was found to be in latitude 40° 6' north. This the old gentleman took the trouble to engrave upon the trunk of a tree standing near by, for the benefit, as he said, of those who might hereafter visit the spot, if perchance such an occurrence should ever happen.* Here we remained two days, living on mussels and dried salmon, which we obtained from the Indians, of whom we found many. EVERY MAN FOR HIMSELF. Again we resumed our journey. In crossing a deep gulch, a short distance from the Point, the Doctor had the misfortune to have two of his animals mire down. He called lustily for assistance, but no one of the company would aid him to rescue them. We had been annoyed so much, and detained so long, in lifting fallen mules — some remembered the treatment they received when in a similar predicament — that one and all declared they would no longer lend assistance to man or beast, "Discovered by the crew of the Cameo, and mentioned in that narrative.

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FIRST DISCOVERIES BY LAND AND ska. 89 and that from this forward eaeli would constitute a ■ by himself, under obligations to no one, and free! ■ uited his notions. In obedience to this resolve, I immediately set al out making arrangements in regard to myself. Saving for some time noticed the rapid strides the comp wen- making towards disruption, and anticipate Bimilar to that which had just transpired, 1 visited the chief of a tribe of Indians who lived elos.- at, hand, aid explained t.i him, as best I could, what, I wanted and intended to do, provided we could agree. I gave him to under itand thai I desired to remain with him awhile, and that if ho would protect me and lake care of my mule, and give meaplace in his wigwam, I would furnish him with all the elk meat he wanted. To this he readily acquiesced, and in addition returned many assurances that nothing should harm either me or mine. When the company were again about starting — for they all seemed bound in the same direction, whether in conformity to an agreed plan, or involuntarily, I did not, know — tli. \ discovered that I was not prepared to accompany them, and demanded to know the reason why I did not get ready. I then informed them of my determination, ami the agreement I had made with the Indian chief. All were violently opposed to the arrangement, and urged as a reason why I should not persist in such a determination, that when altogether we were not sufficiently strong to pass through the Indian country in safety, should they see tit to oppose us, and that to remain with them would be to abandon myself to certain destruction, while at the same time it would lessen the probability of any of them reaching the settlements in safety. I told them I had no horse that could travel, I was not able to walk, and that I would as soon be killed by Indians as again to incur the risk of starvation, or, perhaps, that which was worse, fall a victim to cannibalism. Truesdell, who had two animals left, offered to sell me one of them for one hundred dollars, if I would continue with them. 1 finally accepted the offer and proceeded with them. MAD RIVER DISCOVERED AND NAMED. Little River was soon recrossed, after which nothing occurred to interrupt our progress until we reached another stream, Which was then a large river, being swollen by the heavy rains. Its banks run full, and its waters, near the mouth, appeared deep, and moved so slowly and gently that we concluded* it must be a navigable stream. Our next, difficulty was to cross this river. Here the harmony that had existed for so short a time was again disturbed. The Doctor wished to ascertain the latitude of the mouth of the river, in order hereafter to know where it was. This was of course opposed by the rest of the company. Regardless of this opposition, he proceeded to take his observation. We were, however equally obstinate in adhering to the determination of proceeding without delay. Thus decided, oui ani r, and our blankets in canoes — which we had procured from the Indiana trpose — ready to cross. As the canoes w pushing off] the D carry our determination int.. effect, and h behind hastily caught up bis instrument < for the cai to i which, how, is compelled to wade several steps in the His cup of wrath was now filled to the in on. but he remained silent until the opposite Bhore was gained, when he opened upon us a p rfeel battery of the most withering and violent abuse. Several times during the ebulition of the old man passion, he indulged in such insulting language and

90 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS. " I dipped it out of a bay of smooth water." This excited our curiosity, and Buck seemed, at the time, to be rather dogged, and not much disposed to gratify us by explanations. It was dusk, and he could not tell the extent of the bay. This was the night of the 20th of December, 1 849, and was undoubtedly the first discovery of the bay by Americans, notwithstanding Capt. Douglass Ottinger claims to have first discovered it. We gave it the name of* " Trinity Bay," but before we could return (the next year), Captain Ottinger, with a party by water, discovered it and gave it the name of "Humboldt Bay," the name which it still retains. The next morning, by daylight, we were up and moved our camp over to the bay, and stopped there during the day. This was opposite the point where Bucksport now stands. (On the strip of sand west of the bay.) We encamped the night previous under a group of small trees in the sand-hills lying between the bay and the ocean, on the strip of land now known as the " Peninsula," or " North Beach." The reason we had not discovered the bay the day previous, in traveling down from the mouth of Mad River, was because we followed the beach— it being' hard sand and easy traveling— and the low hills and timber on the strip of land, lying between the ocean and the bay, shut out the latter entirely from our view. During the day we remained here, the Indians came to our camp, and we learned from them that we could not follow clown the beach on account of the entrance to the bay, which was just below us. Mr. Buck, however, to satisfy ourselves, took an Indian with him and started down to the entrance. When he returned, he reported quite a large and apparently deep stream connecting the bay wi€h the ocean, and considerable swell setting in, which he thought would make it dangerous to attempt to cross. The Indians also represented that it was deeper than the trees growing on the Peninsula were tall; so we abandoned the idea of attempting to cross it. Where wo were camped was the narrowest part of the bay, being the channel abreast of Bucksport, and the Indians assured us that we could swim our animals across there, and offered to take us across in their canoes. Most of the party, including Dr. Gregg, were of the same opinion; but some of the company opposing the project, we packed up next morning and started northward, keeping as near the bay as the small sloughs would permit, for the purpose of heading it. FIRST PARTY EVER AT ARCATA. After making our way through brush and swamp, swimming sloughs and nearly drowning ourselves and animals, we arrived towards night of the second day, after leaving our camp opposite Bucksport, on a beautiful plateau near the highland and redwoods, at the northeast end of the bay. At this point which commands a fine view of the bay, stretching out to the southwest, we made a halt, and it being nearly night, pitched our camp. This plateau is the present site of the town of Union (now Areata). Our camp was near the little spring, about two hundred yards from the east side of the Plaza, towards the woods T have seen some of the old tent pins, still remaining there, within the last year (1856). As soon as we had unpacked, some of the party started in search of game, and soon came across a fine band of elk a little north of our camp, about where the cemetery now is, and fired several shots, wounding two or three, but they succeeded in reaching the thicket in the edge of the redwoods, and dark setting in, they could not be found. We therefore did not get any supper that night. The next morning, early, some went in search of the elk and found one of them in the brush dead, and brought it to camp. FIRST CHRISTMAS ON HUMBOLDT BAY. Next morning, 25th of December, 1849, we roasted the elk's head in the ashes, and this constituted our Christmas feast. This was my first Christmas in California, and having been reduced so often to the point of starvation, we enjoyed this simple fare, yet you may rest assured, it was not that " Merry Christmas " I had been accustomed to in Kentucky with the "old folks at home." This day we moved down to the point of high prairie, near the mouth of Freshwater Slough at the east side of the bay, and there camped. The next day we made our way through the woods, following an indistinct Indian trail, back of where the town of Eureka is now situated, and came out at the open space in the rear of where Bucksport now stands, which place derives its name from one of our party, David A. Buck. We pitched our camp near the bluff, on the top of which is at present Fort Humboldt. The next day we followed down the bay, crossing Elk River, to Humboldt Point. THE INDIANS FRIENDLY. Here we were visited by the Chief of the tribe of Indians in the vicinity of the bay, who was an elderly and very dignified and intelligent Indian. He appeared very friendly and seemed disposed to afford us every means of comfort in his power. He supplied us with a quantity of clams, upon which we feasted sumptuously. The evening we arrived here, some of the party went out on the slope of prairie, to the east of our camp, and killed an elk, and while there taking care of it, we sent a note over to them, and received one in return, by this Chief, who would not allow any other Indian to carry them, but insisted upon being the bearer himself. He seemed anxious to arrive at the secret of this means of communication, and would watch to see what effect the piece of written paper' would have on the one to whom he delivered it. This old man's name we learn was Ki-we-lat-tah. He is still living on the bay (1856), and has always been known as a quiet and friendly Indian. It had been our intention at the outset, if we succeeded in

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FIRST DISCOVERIES BY LAND AND SEA. discovering the bay, and provided the surrounding country was adapted to agricultural purposes, and was sufficiently extensive, to locate claims lor ourselves, and lay out a town; but the deplorable condition in which we now found ourselves, reduced in Btrength, health impaired, our ammunition nearly exhausted— upon which we were entirely dependent, as well for the little food we could obtain, as for our defense and protection -and destitute of either farming or mechanical implements, induced us to abandon such intention, at least for the pre8enfcland use all possible dispatch in making on r way to the settlements. Accordingly, having remained at this camping place one day, we turned our faces toward the South. Our progress was extremely slow, as the rain was falling almost incessantly, rendering traveling difficult and fatiguing. „;„;,, AND VAN DUZBN RIVERS DISCOVERED AND NAMED. The third t --h,,. over the route we had advocated. Accordingly we separated, and although the rain was falling in torrents, we left the camp. As before stated, our intention was to continue along the river, believing that by so doing our progress would be more rapid, and that the chances for obtaining t I would be better In this, however, we were sadly disappointed, for. as we advanced, the country became more and more uneven, and at lasfcmountainous.Thespursfromthemountainsextendmgdown to the river'sedge.became Roabrapt,and the ravines between so deep, as to render it extremely difficult to get our animals over then, We toiled along, however, until the third day when we determined to leave the river. Our hope was to find some mountain ridge leading in a southeasterly direcUon-that being about the course we desired to take-and w.th tins view we ascended the mountain. PROGRESS OF THE "WOOD" PARTY. The day after we left the river it commenced snowing, which, in a short time, so completely obliterated al, there was 71 trail, an,! shut from our view every landmark that could guide us in our course, that we were compelled to camp. Our Lation now was indeed deplorable. At no ,mo before had we been so complete* destitute, and never had our prospe t been so gloomy a,,l disheartening. Fast be.ng hemmed ,« w.th snow, without food either for ourselves or our an.mals, -t seemed "u inevitable that our only alternative was to apply to that I "on them as serving us in the additional capacty of food, 1 when necessity might compel ns to resort t. them. While the snow was yet not too deep, the ammals w.th the r 1 ,he „rass bare, and thus obtained all there was to rPW: I wi: fortunate enough to kill a small dee, te I's elapsed before we were able to move from th» 'lolace and then not in the direction we des.red, for r^atC^tyof snow that had fallen presented an ,m^ble barrier I our progress, cons^nently we were comnM»A to return to the river.

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92 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS. extricated ourselves from our unfortunate situation in the snow, Dothing remained of the deer but the skin. \V.; continued bur course up the river, as best we could, sometimes aided by an Indian or elk trail, at others literally cutting our way along. V,v several days all that we had or could obtain to subsist upon, was the deer-skin which we had saved, and a few buckeyes. The former we cut up and boiled in water, and afterwards drank the water in which it had been boiled, and chewed the hide. DISASTROUS ADVENTURE WITH GRIZZLIES. Upon passing from the forest into a small opening, we came suddenly upon five grizzly bears. Wilson and myself immediately went in pursuit of them, but unfortunately met with no further success th'an to wound one of them severely. The day following this, while traveling over a piece of mountain prairie, and passing a small ravine or gulch, we espied a group of no less than eight more of these animals. Although exhausted • from fatigue, and so reduced in strength that we were scarcely able to drag ourselves along, yet we determined to attack these grim customers. Wilson, Seabring, and myself prepared for the conflict, which it was altogether probable we should have, before the matter was ended, and advanced towards them. While yet a long distance from them, Seabring sought shelter for himself by climbing a tree, not wishing to hazard the chances of a hand to hand contest with bruin. Wilson and myself advanced until within about one hundred yards of the nearest of them, when a consultation was again held in relation to the mode of making the attack. THEIR MODE OF ATTACTING BEARS. It was arranged that I should approach as near as possible, and fire ; then make the best of my way to some tree for safety. The latter part of the arrangement I did not assent to, for one very good reason — I was so completely prostrated from exposure and starvation, that had I the will to run, my limbs would scarcely have been able to execute their functions. We continued to approach our antagonists until within about fifty paces, when I leveled my rifle at the one nearest me, and after a careful aim, fired. The shot was to all appearances, a fatal one, for the huge monster fell, biting and tearing the earth with all the fury of one struggling in death. So soon as I had fired, Wilson said to me, in a low tone of voice— "run ! run!" Instead however of yielding to his advice, I immediately commenced reloading my rifle. Wilson now discharged his gun at another with equal success. When I fired, five of the bears started up the mountain. Two now lay upon the ground before us, and a third yet remained, deliberately sitting back upon her haunches, and evidently determined not to yield the ground without a contest, loukin-r first upon her fallen companions and then upon us. DSELESS ATTEMPTS TO ESCAPE. Wilson now thought it was time to retreat, and accordingly made the best of his way to a tree. Unfortunately for me, I could not get the ball down upon the powder, and in this predicament, so soon as Wilson started to run, the bear came dashing at me with fury. I succeeded however in getting beyond her reach in a small buckeye tree. I now made another effort to force the ball down my rifle, but with no better success than at first, and was therefore compelled to use it to beat the bear off as she attacked the tree, for the purpose of breaking it down or shaking me out of it. She kept me busy at this for two or three minutes, when to my astonishment, the bear I had shot down, having recovered sufficiently from the effects of the wound, came bounding towards me with all the violence and ferocity that agony and revenge could engender. No blow that I could inflict upon the head of the maddened monster with my gun could resist or even check her. The first spring she made upon the tree broke it down. I had the good fortune to gain my feet before they could get hold of me, and ran down the mountain in the direction of a small tree, standing about thirty yards distant. Every jump I made I thought must be my last, as I could distinctly feel the breath of the wounded bear as she grabbed at my heels. I kept clear of her while running, but the race was a short one. On reaching the tree, or rather bush, I seized hold of the trunk of it and swung my body around so as to afford the bear room to pass me, which she did, and went headlong down the hill some twenty paces before she could turn back. I exerted all my energies to climb this tree, but before I could get six feet from the ground, the hindermost bear caught me by the right ankle and dragged me down again. By this time the wounded bear had returned, and, as I fell, grabbed at my face. I however dodged, and she caught me bv the left shoulder. The moments that followed were the most critical and perilous of my life. Here, then, thought I, was the end of all things to me! That I must perish — be mangled and torn in pieces— seemed inevitable. During all the time I was thus situated, my presence of mind did not forsake me. TERRIFIC ENCOUNTER WITH GRIZZLIES. Immediately after the second bear had caught me by the shoulder, the other still having hold of my ankle, the two pulled against each other as if to draw me in pieces ; but my clothes and their grip giving way, occasionally saved me. In this way they continued until they had stripped me of my clothes, except a part of my coat and shirt, dislocated my hip, and inflicted many flesh wounds — none of the latter, however, being very serious. They seemed unwilling to take hold of my flesh, for, after they had divested me of my clothes, they both left me — one going away entirely, and the other (the wounded bear) walking slowly up the hill, about one hundred yards from

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I [RST DISC0VERIE8 BY LAND AND SKA. 93 m, .;,,,, i there delilKjrately Kcati'd herself, and fa tened I ,,!„,,, mo, an I lay upon the ground pei ft etl; till THE BEAB ithstJMl.s THE \ I PACK Afi.-r remaining thus several minutes, I ventured to a which. I suppose, Bhe must have seen, for the 6rsl motion brought her pell mell upon me again, roaring every jun loud" as she could roar. At, this moment, f musl eonf< presence of mind nearly forsook mo, I knew that if »hi again attacked or took hold of me, il must be upon my naked flesh. The moment left me was one of fearful suspense No o < had she reached me than Bhe placed her nose violently again I my side, and then raised her head and gave vent to two of the most frightful, hideous, and unearthly yells that were ever heard by mortal man. I remained perfectly quiet, hoping that by so doing she would leave me, and in this hope I wasnotdisappointed, for after standing over me a short time, she again walked away. I now thought she had left for good, and determined to place myself, if possible, beyond her reach, should she, however, make up her mind to again return and continue the attact. Up to this time I was unconscious of the extent of the injury I had received; that an accident had befallen my leg I was well aware, but not until I attempted to get up was my true situation manifest to me. I then found that I could not use my right leg, and supposed it was broken. Turning to look about me, to assure myself that my enemy llll(1 retired, imagine my surprise at seeing her again not more th;lll LOO yards distant, sitting back upon her haunches and her eves glaring full at me. With my leg in the condition l haverGlated, I dragged myself to the buckeye bush, from .which [had been pulled down by the bear, and after much difficulty sue, led in climbing up about eight feet. So soon as Wilson had discovered me up the tree, he left his tree and came tome. Thobear seeing him came bounding towards us with thegreatestfe, ity. Wilson remarked, "What in the name of God shallldor r replied that 1 dd oo up the limb of the bLe she arrived. She deliberate!) -ated herself unmed, utely beneath us. and kept her eyes steadily «, * and , either r the other of us happened* move, she gutter an augr, growl. I observed Wilson press* I rifloathel. and not shooting immediately, 1 remarked i h .o God's sake, shoot her-for she is thebeastthal 1 all the injury I b. eceivedi" He watched her eyes Lly for a momerit. with his aim still fiSed upon he,, and £l again repeated my req t for him ^shoot. he replied So sir; let her go-lot her go, if she will, ,Tei having deUi ins in this situation for a few mmutes, :inaivli„t- thereby giving me an opportunity to get down from the tree. A DISTRESSING SCTUi flON. Now that all Hi lfUtJ tlize my taon, rounds I had "fulthe remainder --f 1 1 j . • , m carried distance down the mountain, I i camping Here m dm d I w< h e da] . subsisting entirely upon the meat afforded b) the bear Wilson hoi in the late encounter. It. now became a B0UrC€ of much anxiety, to know when and how we should leave this place, or whal disposition they would make of me, as I seemed to grow worse, instead of better. It was thought that by remaining in camp ten or twelve days, my wounds would have so far healed as to enable us to resume our journey; but no one, not even myself, supposed that the injuries I had received were of so serious a character as they now proved to be. Finding, however, at the expiration of that time, that my condition had in nowise improved, they consulted me in relation to the course that should be adopted. That it was necessary, absolutely so, that no more time should be lost, all insisted, as we were almost entirely stripped of clothing and without shoes to protect our feet from the thorns and briers that were ever in our path. All were becoming aware of the fact that their strength and health were fast failing, and although we had, from the outset, been gradually trained to bear cold, hunger and pain, yet it was too evident that our powers of endurance were seriously impaired. They urged, as a further reason, that our ammunition was nearly or quite exhausted, upon which our sole dependence rested for the scanty supply of food that we could obtain. The meaning of this was obvious to me, and in reply I said to them, that they had remained with me as long as I could expect or ask; that they were bound to save themselves if they could, and that they ought not to allow me to be in their way; but as they had seen proper to speak of the matter. I would aslc of them one other faver. INDIAN TREACHERY. I suggested two ways in which they could dispose of me, either of" which I would prefer to being abandoned to my fate in the condition and place in which I now was. The first, was to induce the Indians, who had visited us during our stay here, to take care of me until they could go to a settlement and return; and a second was to put an end to my sufferings. They cheerfully sought the chief of these Indians, and explained to him what they desired to do, and in turn what they required of him, to all of which he apparently readily assented, and promised faithfully to attend to me and supply me with food until they could return. He agreed to come the next morning and convey me to his ranch, which was about three miles distant, and situated upon the river. At the appointed time the old chief presented himself,

04 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS. together with three of his men, and expressed his readiness to fulfill hie agreement. One of them gave me several varieties of herbs, which I accepted and ate, and gave him to underninl that they were very good. Before taking me, however, they demaii'li-il some presents as a compensation for the services they were about to render. All the beads and trinkets in our possession were gathered together and given to them. These, however, were not sufficient, and more were required. Their demand for more was repeated, and compliance on our part yielded, until everything we had, save such things as necessity absolutely required us to retain — even blankets that had been allotted to me — were given up to them, in order, if possible, to avoid offending them. At length they seemed satisfied that they had gotten all they could, when the chief very cooly tinned to bis men and bade them return to their home, he following after them, leaving us to regret the folly and indiscretion committed, in reposing too much confldence in a race of beings, known by all experience to be totally unworthy of it. While these preliminaries were being arranged, I was busied in dragging myself upon a litter that had been prepared for me. This was a difficult task. I could not endure assistance my leg was so much swollen and inflamed, and so exceedingly sensitive in getting upon it. I however finally succeeded, and had prepared myself to bid farewell, most likely forever, to my companions who had so patiently submitted to the great delay to which they had been subjected, through the misfortune that had overtaken me, and who had so calmly and quietly — without a single murmur — endured intense sufferings. When, however, I saw these treacherous villains leave us with their ill-gotten booty, my heart for a moment ceased to beat. The first thought that possessed my brain, was that my fate was sealed — that death awaited me. Either I should be abandoned in these desolate solitudes, to endure the gnawing pan^s of hunger, and at last to perish alone, a victim of starvation, or they would release me from these accumulated tortures by shooting me; for in this light I viewed it, and therefore preferred the latter alternative. A BRAVE AND NOBLE COMPANION. A solemn and profound silence now prevailed with all a silence which no one seemed disposed to interrupt. I turned my face from my campanions, that they might not be embarrassed in their consultation, or in carrying into execution any determination they might arrive at, particularly if it should be to relieve me of my sufferings by shooting me. Their conversation was carried on in a low, indistinct tone of voice, for some time. Occaaionly detached portions of sentences would reach my ears, enough, however, to satisfy my mind that there was a difference of opinion in relation to the course they should now adopt. At length Wilson's voice rose above the rest, sayino-, "N0! 1 will not leave him:— I'll remain with him, if it is alone, or I will pack him if he is able and willing to bear the pain !" This terminated the conversation, and in a few moments after Seabring came to me and inquired what should now be done. I told him they might pack me to the river, where they had hacked out a canoe for the purpose of crossing, and I would then tell them whether I could continue with them, and in the event of my being unable to endure being packed further, all I had to ask of them was to leave me in the canoe to drift whither fate might direct. He said, "we cannot pack you, for you have never allowed us to touch you, even; how then can you bear to be placed upon a horse and packed ?" "You are not to consult my wishes in the matter," I replied. "If you have decided not to abandon rae, you must do with me as you will. Much longer delay in this place and at this season of the year, may prove fatal to all; self-preservation, therefore, must demand an immediate resumption of our journey, if it be at the risk, and even expense, of the life of one. " PAINFUL JOURNEY COMMENCED. Wilson then requested me to select whichever animal I preferred; I however chose my own. They now lifted me into the saddle, and spent much time in placing me in a position that would give me the least pain. None, however, seemed to suit, and I asked Seabring, as a particular favor, to exchange saddles, for I thought his would make me more comfortable, and was certain it could not be worse than mine. They laid me upon the ground, changed the saddles, and again placed me upon my horse. I said nothing, but the agony I suffered no language can describe. The exchange of saddles aggravated my misery, but I had determined to be satisfied with this, let it be as it would. Seabring led my horse down the mountain, and after a long and tedious march, we reached the river. Here we camped. When the bear that Wilson had killed in the late encounter, had been cut up and brought into camp, the entrails were likewise brought in, carefully cleaned and preserved; the blubber or fat was boiled out and put up in these skins and laid aside. On resuming our journey these were taken along, and this we were compelled to drink, as a substitute for other food, before we reached tho settlements. The next morning I was again consulted, and asked if I was able to continue on with them. I replied that as long as I lived, if it so pleased them, I desired to have them pack me, and should I die, that they should cut the cords that bound me to my horse and pass on. [ could not ask or expect them to bury me, for there were no tools among the company with which to dig a grave. Again was I bound upon my horse and packed until another camp was reached, enjoying only an occasional respite, to allow my benumbed limbs, to recover from the effects produced by being conflned in one position for so long a time.

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PIB8T DI8C0VEHIES BY LAND AND SEA. In this manner wc continued on, with little or no change in !,!,,■ occurrences that happened, foi the period of ten following down the Russian River a long distance, and then striking across towards Sonoma. At the expiration <>f this tunc, we arrived at the ranch of Mrs. Mark \\ || thirty miles from the town of Sonoma, on the 17th -lay of February 1850. Eero 1 remained six weeks, until sufficiently recovered to proceed to San Francisco, ami waa treated with the greatest kindness by every member of the family. PROGRESS OF THE "GREGG11 PARTY. I must now tell you something of the other four. Me Gregg, Van Duzen, Southard and Truesdell, whom we left on Eel River, and within twenty miles of the bay or coast. They attempted to follow along the mountains near the coast, but were very slow in their progress on account of the snow on the high ridges, Finding the country very much broken along the coast, making it continually necessary to cross abrupt, rocky points, and deep gulches and canons, after struggling along for several days, they concluded to abandon that route and strike easterly, towards the Sacramento Valley. Having very little ammunition, they all came nigh perishing from starvation, and — as Mr. Southard related to me — Dr. Gregg continued to grow weaker, from the time of our separation, until, one day, he fell from his horse, and died in a few hours without speaking — died from starvation— had had no meat for several days— had been living entirely upon acorns and herbs. They dug a hole with sticks and put him under ground, then carried rock and piled upon his grave to keep animals from digging him up. They got through to the Sacramento Valley a few days later than we reached Sonoma Valley. Thus ended our expedition. THE HAY WAS NAMED TRINITY. When our party first discovered this bay, Dr. Gregg called it Trinity Bay, because, as he said, he believed it was the same hay which he had seen laid down upon the old Spanish charts under that name. This was on the 20th day of December, 1849, and on the 21st we made our camp close to the bay, and opposite the present town of Bucksport. We had been in camp but a short time when the chief Ki-ive-lat-tah, alias "Old Goonskin;' his two wives, and his brother Skasepee, came in a canoe from the headland known as Humboldt Point, to see us, and from them we learned that no white persons had ever been on the shores of the bay before, but that a long time ago, when they were children, a sail vessel had entered, remained a short time, went to sea and never returned. During our whole stay hove Of about ten days, the chief and his party remained with us night and day. except the two days we were camped at the head of the bav where Areata now stands. We left the bav on our way south on the 1st day of January. 1850, and arrived at Sonoma on the 17th day of February, from whence two of our party went to San Francisco. SECOND EXPLORING PAJH The others immediately set about recruiting a compauy to return, and soon succeeded in making the party about thirty strong, and in the early part of March, 1850, when aboul start, four of the recruit- v. i for murder Indian killing' , which delayed us. Six slu.nM have been arrested, and five of the six hanged, as they never quit Indian killing, hut kept it up after reaching here, which was the our Indian trouble-. These worthier were taken to Benicia and eonfined on board a man-of-war, but by some means were released and soon returned to us, and we made our start the latter part of March, reaching the bay about the 19th day of April, 1850. FIRST SETTLERS OF Bl I KSPORT \M' MtCATA. We saw that the schooner Laura Virginia was inside, and that Humboldt Point was occupied by her party. They did not see us, and that they should not, we shifted our course more to the north, coming upon the shore of the bay where Bucksport now stands. Here we left four of our number to occupy and make improvements upon the land, the rest proceeding as fast as possible across the bay at this point, by the help of the Indians, and made our way on foot to the head ot the bay where Areata now stanis, and which we considered the only place for a town. We arrived here on the 21st

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96 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS. ,;„,,,„/„, and Patapseo, had all gone in Bearch of the mysterious bay, ,.,,: ,| \ |. :.i i ! ill:- TRINIDAD HAY. By the first of April, 1850, the newa of the discovery of Trinidad Bay reached San Francisco from passengers of the Gwmeo, which was the Brsl to nail and the first todiscover, though not till three months afterwards, the long-sought harbor, On the sixteenth of March, 1850, the Carneo rounded to off Trinidad heads and sent a boat's cow to examine a point that made out into the sea This crew, among whom was W. (!. i;. Smith, rounded the point and found the entrance to a harbor which they believed to be the long-sought Trinidad. The Cameo was compelled to sail on account of the stormy weather thus deserting the small boat and crew and proceeded to Point St George where she landed her passengers, unaware that the men in the boat had discovered the bay. The men who were deserted explored the bay, near the head of which they found a tree with the following inscription '.— Lat. 41° 3' 32" Barometer 29° 86' Ther. Fah. 48° at 12 M. Dec. 7, 1849. J. Gregg. This was the record by the party as mentioned in Wood's narrative and proved the truth of their story about having seen the bay. SUPPOSED DISCOVERY OF TRINITY RIVER. Some twenty miles north of the bay they discovered a river entering the ocean, which they supposed to be the Trinity. They were on shore eight days and were nearly starved, when the Laura Virginia arrived in the offing and was piloted in by the hungry explorers, being the first vessel to enter the harbor. She was soon followed by the James K Whiting and Calif oi*nia. The California sailed for San Francisco on March 28th, with news that the bay had been found and the Cameo supposed to be lost. GRKAT EXCITEMENT FOLLOWS THE DISCOVERY. The reception of this news created great excitement, and a large number of vessels were at once advertised to sail for Trinidad with freight and passengers. The excitement caused l,\ the return of the Gregg party was by no means confined to San Francisco, nor to expeditions by sea. A party left Napa Valley for Trinidad overland, early in April, followed soon by another. The following communication appeared in the Alto, April 10:— " HO ! FOR TRINITY ! "Messrs. Editors: — From the reports of persons who lately came into Napa and Sonoma Valleys from an exploration of the country around the Trinity, there remains no doubt of the great richness of the mines in that region. Already large bodies of practical and experienced miners are on the move in that direction. The mines are reached by an easy route, only 150 miles distant from the head ojt Napa Valley, in an almost northerly course, passing on the westerly side of Clear Lake, some five or six miles above the head of the lake, through a prairie gap to the head-waters of the Russian River, and thence by a good trail to a branch of the Trinity, where rich deposits of gold are found. By this route a large party, headed by Charles Hopper, "left Napa Valley at the close of last month. Another party will leave Napa on the eleventh of the month by the Clear Lake road, among whom are John Walker and that old mountaineer, Aaron Adams. Yours, etc., J- W. B." DISCOVERY OF HUMBOLDT RAY BY SEA. On the twenty-ninth of March, 1850 the day after the California sailed from Trinidad with the news of its discovery, Capt. Douglass Ottinger, of the Laura Virginia, also weighed anchor and sailed from the harbor to see what else he could find. A few days later he discovered and entered a fine bay a few miles to the south which he named Humboldt, after the renowned traveler, and located the town of Humboldt. We are indebted to Dr. Jonathan Clark for the following interesting scrap of Humboldt history, which he furnished for publication in 1870, in the Northern Independent:— " San Francisco, Cal., April 25, 1850. "To the Hon. Wm. M. Meredith; Secretary of the Treasury— "Sir: Although on furlough, yet I feel that when I can give what I believe to be useful information to the Department, it is my duty to do so, and therefore take the liberty of sending you a brief report of ray late voyage for the purpose of exploring the coast of California from Bodega Bay to the anchorage at Cape St. George. " I sailed from this port in command of the schooner Laura Virginia, with a party of gentlemen, for Trinity Bay, and also to make examinations for the mouth of Trinity River. The schooner under my command being well adapted for coasting, gave me considerable advantage over the numerous vessels that had preceded me, and no doubt contributed much to my ultimate success. "During the first two days of my voyage, the weather was thick, and our progress slow; but from Pinnacle Rock, in latitude 39° 07', I had an opportunity of seeing most of the shore. The timber begins to show itself some distance to the south of Pinnacle Rock, and as we proceeded north, became more dense, and the trees nearer to the ocean. The coast, generally, is rocky, but safe for the purposes of navigation, as all danger seemed to show itself. The sea-breeze blows from the northwest, but not regular, and comes in generally about 11 A. M., and ceases at 5 P. M., which renders the coast particularly well suited for steam navigation, as it is almost calm, within four miles of the land, eighteen hours in the day; and the further we went north, the less regular we found the northwest trade

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MUST DISC0VBRIB8 BY LAND AND SEA. ,..-,,,, I- , Aftei pa i"" I lap > which j ^ latitude 10° -"', the Ian ' ward.and foi mi Q considerable indentation oi bay with a valley of t flfteen miles in width, and running back a i could reach. DISCOVERY OP BBL Ml EB •• \\Y mow ran along within half a mile of a low Band beach, Up0n which thesea was breaking heavily, expecting to find a river of considerable magnitude from such topography, and Boon had the satisfaction of Jeeing a large tream winding its way among the woodlands. "I spent two days in Bounding and waiting Eor a imooth sea to get over the bar, latitude 40" 41', and finally attempted it| DUt had the misfortune to upsel one of our boats, by which ac oident a valuable life was lost. I whs in the other boat, and .,,„,,, ,l,.,l •,„ saving the remaining gentlemen composing the ,.n.w i Was satisfied, however, that mj vessel could enter with safely, but the great difficulty which presented itself was to get her out, Eor there seemed a heavy and constant run of breakers at its mouth, sufficient to render a sail craft unmanll(T(,L1,|(, | h,uv since l.een informed by persons competent to judge, that this river is navigable for forty or fifty miles, and that it passes through a section of country diversified with hill and valley, woodland and prairie, with a soil so rich and deep that ages of culture will not exhaust it. FIRST VIEW OF THE HAY. -We again stood to the northward, and after passing aheadland which 1 have nai 1 Ridge Point, 1 noticed that the country continued open near tl :ean, and from the masthead di8C0Vered inside of a «od bank a large bay but no clear entrance showed itaelf. I was however, of tl pmionthatso ,arge a sheet of water must have an outlet of considerable depth; and from the anchorage at Trinity Bay latitude 41 05;55»|apart3 was dispatched overland on the 4th of April to examine- the topography on the shores of the bay, and to gain.. knowledge of the channel" The adventures of tins imi, ,, were written for our history by one of the company. FIRST VESSEL ENTERS THE BAY. „0n ^p*8Uifl»By™torftoWidM^;^I^ ,, ..I .o,l DM. f the large bay latitude 40 48 L after sounds the bar and channel, sent xn my hoatea^d on the bar. which, after crossing, deepened to ten fathoms. I spent two days in sounding the depth of the water and e.^ ,eMhee;M,eityorU.sK,u.fu,hav.whieh1saouts,,,; the point where our first tent was pitched, 40 4*594 both the northern and southern parte of he bay there .,„. ^tensive Bate, dry at low water, hut the country surrounding it ' l° ing in the a»tfl ricultnral district, a «rmsh "• rar" ance »f country ■ , i upon, being well > , Uv>A\y\. as would probably be needed forcul Fur some > ■ ••The woods abound with elk, deer, and sm and M„. u, hell and other fish. Inaddition toll ftbove mentioned, iteproximitj to th. rich gold mini on ,;„ Truritj River will doubtless give ii Borne immediatecom mercial importance; and, under this belief.I have taken the liberty of ...akin- this report to the head of theDepartment to which I am attached. •• I would further state that, so far as I have examined the line of country bordering on the sea-coast, it appears to be well adapted to agricultural purposes. The timber is of the most abundant and stupendous growth, and streams of sufficient power and fall to drive large gangs of saws, emptying into the ocean within every three or four miles. HABBOB OF CRESCENT CEDX ••I have examined with great care, the coast from Gape Mendocino to Cape St. George, at which last-named point I found a brig at anchor and a schooner ashore, having parted her cables in a gale. From persons on board these vessels, I first learned of the death of Lieut. R. Bache, and Lieut. R. Browning, U. S. Navy, and three other persons who were drowned° by the upsetting of a boat whilst attempting to land through the surf. The body of Lieutenant Bache had been recovered and buried on the sand beach, but was removed from thence and reinterred on the high land by our party the particulars of which I have written to his brother, A. D, Bache, Esq., Superintendent of U. S. Coast Survey. The .and, timber and streams at this point are nearly the same as those already described; but the anchorage is not good, as the bottom of the bay appears to be composed of quicksand. Latitude of same 41° 42' 23". KLAMATH RIVER DISCOVERED. «I would also mention a river of considerable magnitude in latitude 41° 33', with but little breakers on its bar, and not lcss than three fathoms, so far as I had an opportunity of soundin- This stream, I have no doubt, can be safely entered by veflseb of fifty or one hundred tons, and rafts of t.mbei floated to ships, outside where the anchorage is good, and the current strong from the river at three-quarters of a m.le from the beach. In about latitude 41° 19' there is also a considerable stream, but not of sufficient magnitude for commercial pur,ml„, than rafting down timber. The lands in the neighborhood of all these rivers appear to be of the mghest

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98 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTEKS. character for agriculture, and the coast by no means dangerous to navigate. " The Indians, though numerous, appear to be harmless, except their propensity to pilfer, and they received us kindly at avery point we visited. The climate so far as I could judge, ifl quite temperate even in winter, although the second range of mountains, which are in some places within twenty miles of the coast, were covered with snow on the 20th instant. One circumstance which influences me in coming to the conclusion that the temperature is very low on this part of the coast, is, that the Indians are almost without clothing of any kind to protect them from the inclemency of the weather. " I have the honor to inclose herewith a sketch of the bay and her harbor, which we have named, "Humboldt." " I am, very respectfully, sir, your obedient servant, "Douglass Ottinger, "Captain U. S. It. Marine." The following detailed account of the movements and discoveries of the party sent out by Lieutenant Ottinger, has been prepared for our history by E. H. Howard Esq., Commander of the party. THE CRUISE OF THE "LAURA." The Laura Virginia Association was one of the first organized for the exploration by water and settlement of the coast north of the Golden Gate. Its members were mostly citizens of San Francisco, who projected the enterprise with a view of obtaining a more thorough knowledge of that portion of the coast belonging to our newly acquired territory on the Pacific, but having special reference to the selection, if possible, of some point with harbor advantages as a depot for the distribution of merchandise for the mining districts of northern California-a largely productive mining field already occupied, and being developed with a promise of permanent returns, to a population still more numerous, for many generations to come. WEAVERVILLE THE MINING CENTER. At this time, Weaverville was a young but flourishing min. — ~*g Millmg cam,,, with a population, approximately stated of 4 000 and situated in a basin on the Trinity River, about ninety miles from the coast. Its subsequent history entitled it torank as one of the most productive " gold centers " in the State. Lying farther north were other regions of mineral wealth, on Salmon and Klamath Rivers, making an a-re^te population in the northern part of the State, of 15 00&0 °T these distant localities the transportation of supplies' ™ chiefly carried on by the way of Red Bluff, at the head o Sacramento Valley, and thence by pack-mules over a sue cession of different mountains, and swarming with hostiles To divert the present large and prospective trade of' this part of the State into a more economical and expeditious channel by the coast, as well as to open an easier route to travel for any who, for settlement or adventure, ini»ht seek this ultimate frontier of civilization, seemed to the Company a sufficient warrant for the undertaking, especially when supplemented by the possible dividends that might drop into the purse of individual members. Private enterprise, purely in the interest of geographical discovery, or any scientific research, was not on the business programme of those days— certainly not on the "Laura's.'' TITLE AND OBJECTS OF THE ASSOCIATION. The Association adopted the prefix of " Laura Virginia," the name of a staunch Baltimore-built, rakish-looking craft, of 120 tons, which was chartered for the cruise, with Lieut Douglass Ottinger (of U. S. Revenue Cutter Frolic) as Commander. Having a miscellaneous cargo of lumber and general merchandise, and provisioned for a two months' voyage, for about fifty passengers, the jaunty vessel, on the 19th of March, 1850, left the foot of Long Wharf for the " Heads," which were speedily passed, and soon only to be dimly outlined in the distance. The Laura was a splendid sailer, without a rival on the coast for speed; and her Captain, drilled to the thorough seamanship of the Revenue Marine, delighted in a charge that so admirably answered to his skill. When beyond Fort Ross his course was governed much by the appearance of the shore, not omitting, however, to lay close to such places as invited nearer inspection, or offered an approach either for landing or shelter. The dense fogs, lying low under the prominent coast ridges, effectually cut off from view their terminal shore-line, and proved an aggravating damper to observation. But now the skies became bright again, and the distant land looked happy. From below the higher mountain tops, the rounded hills threw out their shoulders to the sensuous sun-beams, stretching in graceful declivities to the shore. Their sloping sides of verdure, in many places, were literally covered with deer and elk, which were easily seen without a glass, roaming or resting in the freedom of their native pastures. CHARACTER OF THE COAST. Point Gordon is now passed—next the scene is shifted-and, suddenly thrust out on the theatrical stage of waters, Mendocino stands before you, the boldest sentinel of the coast, to challenge the formality of a distant salute. So far as seen from the ship, the coast up to this latitude had shown neither break nor depression that indicated any considerable vallev or affluent to the sea. But here the uniformity ended. Clearly profiled against the eastern sky, and retreating far to the interior, the mountains sweep grandly round to the north, forming an amphitheater of varied beauty of landscape in the foreground and advancing to the coast again some forty miles to he north, terminate at Trinity Heads. Truly the hosts of Israel were not more impatient under the guidance

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BIRST DI8COVBR1E8 BY LAND AND ska. of their grand old pioneer of Hebrew civilization, to the field . of I-!-. mi ..-, than were the "Laura" party to reach what might prove to be their promised land Thi owever, was not yet, Breakers and rocks, sheeted with billow mam, told plainly enough, " Keep off." At the same time, the fog came sweeping down the coast, and won the Captain was sfcandingout to sea, and the passengers, one by one, ubsided bo then close-packed quarters, in surly resignation or di gu I For several weary days every prospect was shut out, and there was enforced imprisonment on the drizzled deck, or the dungeon-like dive below, To most of the po engers this was strongly BUggostive of the horrors of the slave ship, in which piratical character the Laura was sailing, when, with all her ghastly cargo, she was captured by one of our cruisers off the airican ( toast, some years before, a fact that had but lately come to their knowledge. The blank sea was still more dismal .-is the spectacle of some formless, giant redwood, looming up in the mist, from whose broken, stubbed branches the scared seafowl would dart down with a shriek, and be seen no more, might readily he transformed, by fancy, into some stormshattered hulk from whose skeleton spars the despairing crew leaped down to a watery grave. But dyspeptic dreams and hm I weather at last came to an end. The view was again unclouded. The ocean on every side was strewn with the fragmentary drift and grass of freshwater affluents, whose turbid torrents were mixed with the sea to a distance of several leagues. These were the first unmistakable signs of any considerable stream whose entrance was near at hand, that the party had discovered. A field of tumbling, tumultuous breakers stretched far out from the shore, aud seemed to forbid approach near enough to distinguish its low, uncertain outlines; and it was, on consultation, determined to extend the voyage further up the coast, and. returning, dispatch a party of explorers from Trinidad by laud. THE "LAUltA" GOES Ul' THE COAST. The Laura accordingly proceeded north to the bay, or roadstead, on which Crescent City is now situated, where, with 0 fearful ground-swell running, she swung to her straining cable for the first time since leaving San Francisco. Here it was learned from the Indians that a "big canoe" had, a few days before, visited the place, and, in trying to make a landing, several persons were lost. \ stroll to the south along the beach resulted in finding the bod} pf one of the unfortunate party, which proved to be that Of Lieut. K. Bache, of the U. S. Coast Survey, then lately assigned to duty on the Pacific. A plain coffin was prepared, and the remains were interred after the ritual service of the Protestant Episcopal Church, Captain Ottinger officiating. The Laura now weighed anchor and stood fur Trinidad, where, in a few hours, she was quietly lying in the roadstead. Ymomr the volunteers for prospecting the coast from this point, as before agreed upon, E. H. Howard, who had the charge of this expedition, select lowing-namod gentleit: H. W Havens, Samuel B. Tucker, II. Lamott, S. \V. Shaw and Mr. Pec il< Duly provided for the defen i the assaults of eithei party took their marcl utherly alt beach, whili schooner m p in readiness near the shore until the tenth day therefrom, when, unless rfgnaled before, Bhe wi return, and take the detachment i a board. GR] ! i M M i ; I i: OF r-i'l \Ns. Three or four hours' travel brought them to a muddy, an stream, !•"><> yards in width, whose southern bank was lined with canoes, drawn up on the land and numerous Indian rancherias. In a moment the approaching party were discovered, and yell answering yell rung out from the dark forest, bringing down, as if by magic, groups of its excited dusky denizens. Squaws, with their pappooses, were seen scampering from their wigwams t" the rear, while the bucks, panoplied with hows and well-filled quivers, with frantic gesticulations gathered on tho hank in hasty pow-WOW, as if debating whether the "waugas" strange apparition boded to them " intents wicked or charitable," In a figurative fa.d don the olive branch was held out to them across the dividing torrent, and tardily tokens of peace responded from the other shore, from which several canoes now struck out, dancing and whirling in the perfidious eddies, and each manned by two stalwart fellows, whose guttural explosives of "ugh!" "ugh!" kept, time with the labored stroke of their paddles. After an exchange-of quite a miscellaneous, if not intelligible stock of pantomiue between the parties, the schedule price of ferriage was fixed, and the service duly performed "on time," though not without an attempt by the canoe party to divide their passengers, and take them across one at a time. To this arrangement the latter, for obvious reasons, made vigorous protest on the spot, and the diggers, with seeming reluctance, carried them as directed. Being now safely over, and in the midst of throngs of natives, curiously, if not treacherously bent, the little band applied themselves to the solution of the problem of making one-half dozen equal a dozen dozen. Their arithmetic proved equal to the emergency. It was soon figured out to their satisfaction that six white men, with each a rifle and revolver, with an unlimited supply of ammunition and brains, could face a thousand Indians. Yet they would have felt a little more confidence in their conclusion if they were once sure that the poor devils believed it also. Thanks to the superiority of race, the premises of the white man's lo-dc at least might be taught on the object lesson theory. Besides the fire-arms, as just intimated, we also carried a surveyor's compass. These must do duty for the occasion. The superstition of the red man, known always to be intense. must be reached through his senses by some striking device.

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100 FIRST SETTLEMEMTS BY GOLD HUNTERS. that, to tli.ir intellects, would seem a proof of gifts supernatural. The lesson is begun, The compass is opened in ;i nee of an eager circle of bucks. They watch the needle trembling on its pivot and then settling to a perfect rest. Tin: AWE-STRUCK RAVAGES. The time had now come to carry out the role of "medicine man " (as we shall call our manipulator), and one of the party comes forward and begins his part, by moving the point of a knife blade around the disk of the instrument. The natives watch the needle's point follow with obedient impulse. The knife i.s withdrawn, and they see the needle flutter back to rest as before. Then our medicine man consults his compass, as if to learn what message it may tell him of all their thoughts, their secret plans and feelings toward their new visitors. Such, at least, he would have them understand had been whispered to him by the Wonder Spirit of the Wauga, through the little glancing arrow that had turned round and round toward every part of the crowd, and taken account of its numbers and what it was intent on doing. Their curiosity has grown by this time into something akin to awe. The firearms, having been exposed to wet, needed fresh loading. Another trial might now be made upon their emotional natures. Awe must be intensified into fear. A man's figure is drawn upon a huge redwood puncheon, and the next object lesson is begun. Bullet after bullet at sixty yards, crashed through the effigy tearing it off in splinters, and along the ground beyond. Another shot at a passing flock of geese and a fluttering " honker," dropped with a thud upon the ground within a few feet of where they stand. To the mystery of knowledge has been added the mystery of power. For the present, intelligence has imposed on the credulity of superstition, and comes off master. THEY DISCOVER HUMBOLDT BAY. Leaving a few presents among what appeared to be the "big Injuns," the company proceeded on their way, keeping to the beach which was smooth and comparatively free from any chance surprise which the sand-hills on the east might afford the natives. Some of the latter followed for several miles, stealing from hillock to hillock on a paralell tract and now and then one could be seen with his head just raised above some distant drift of sand watching every movement of the party. Late in the afternoon might have been seen a veritable stampede, not from an enemy, nor of an enemy. Two who happened to be detached from the party and were some -20U yards in the lead, with a whoop that would have done credit to a Comanche, sprung to a brisk trot and then to a downright run, to the wonder of their companions in the rear. Theu had caught f&gM of the entrance to Humboldt Bay, as since railed. Upon reaching it they threw themselves not on their knees, as some great discoverers have devoutly done, but flat on their stomachs beside the noble stream that was set out by a broad, smooth, clearly defined channel to the open sea. After a moment's breathing, the first impulse was to sample its quality. It was somewhat turbid it is true, but was it fresh or salt? They thought it too much of the latter for drinking, and yet was fresh enough for the mouth of a river emptying into the sea, and a river they believed it to be. Following the shoreline inland this impression was strengthened by the general appearance of the opposite shore and seeming uniformity of width of the channel which stretched away to the northward. It then for the first time occurred to them that they had been for the last hour traveling unconsciously within a fourth of a mile from the stream ignorant of its existence and only separated from it by narrow patches of timber and low sand-hills. The upper and eastern bank was not visible on account of a heavy fog and to the south of the entrance for the same reason a few hundred yards limited the prospect in that direction. The party had now reached the ultimate point of their excursion and felt satisfied so far with its result. Camping over night near by where the present light-house stands and the site of an abandoned ranch eria, on the morning of the next day, as little of the opposite land could be seen on account of the prevailing fog they took at once to the ocean beach and the same day arrived at Trinidad. Fortunately on the next day the Laura was sighted close in, coming up the coast, and in a few hours their signal was answered, and the ship's boat was dispatched to take the party on board. The report of the expedition was hailed with every demonstration of joy and Captain Ottinger, without delay, put directly for the "entrance" of which such a favorable account had been given. FIRST VESSEL TO ENTER EEL RIVER. In the meantime another vessel, the /. M. Rijerson had followed the Laura Virginia from San Francisco and for a couple of days past had been in her company at this place. It was ascertained that her aim was to make a port at the mouth of what is now know as Eel River, five miles to the south of the Laura's objective point. Captain Ottinger seemed to favor the impression of the Ryerson that he also was seeking the same entrance. Unfortunately, in carrying out this strategy, a boat manned by a volunteer crew from the passengers was swamped in the surf in attempting to go over the bar at the mouth of the river, and one of them was lost. N. P. Dupern, Esq., a gentleman since well known at the French Consulate in San Francisco, and in the business community of that city, was one of those rescued, having clung to the boat's bottom, with others, till another boat was sent to their relief. After a little game of fast and loose between the vessels near shore, the Laura playing the " make believe," but the Ryerson in dead

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"BROOK FARM'OF MRS. G . FRANCIS , FERNDALE, HUMBOLDT CO. CAL.I882. BAY MILL & RESIDENCE OF DOLBEER & CARSON, EUREKA. CAL. C0NSTRUCTEDJ878. CUTTING CAPACITY. PER. DAY 60.000. .. YEAR 9.580.000. .. SHINGLE - 2.800.000.

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FIRST DI8C0VBRIBS BY LAND AND SEA. 101 , ;|| ,,■■ if., g< I into tli») i v 1*1 fti-ni i her opportunity, put her bov For the liar, which lofty floundering is the bi I, and was ■ ,,,,,, ,- 1 □ at anchor in FIRST VESSEL KKTRRH HI UBOLDT BAY. Having got rid of his competitor, Captain Ottinger now layB directly for the channel on the north, and wind and tide being favorable, cro es the bar, which wu mooth with three and one-half fathoms of water, and, without carcely a varia< i r > 1 1 of course, passe in between two low headland . and, keeping to the Bouth, anchoi i within cable length of what is ll()\v called Kumboldl Point, A.pril 9, 1850." Many other parties visited this region al that time, and made numerous- explorations and discoverie ; i ng the most important wen' the following vessels and partie . EXPLORATION OF EEL RI\ EB Late in March, 1850, Selim Franklin, C E. Gordon, Captain McDonald and G. Chandler, with two Bailors, left San Fran,.;.,,, 1,, ;, whale boat in search of Trinidad. Early in April they came to the mouth of Eel River, which the} supposed to be illr Trinity. The schooner Jacob .1/. Ryerson appeared a few hours later, and the two companies united in exploring the streams distance of forty miles, finding deep water. A town wa9 [aid out, and some of the men went overland to Trinidad bo gel g Is that had been shipped to thai point. Franklin returned from there* to San Francisco to procure supplies and to advertise the new town, which he did by assuring everj ono that the river led dirocl to the mines, though he had no evidence of the fact beyond his hope that it was true. SECOND DISCOVERY OF BEL RIVER. \ few .lavs prior to this, however, Eel River had again been discovered and named. Samuel Brannan had fitted out the schooner General Morgan, commanded by his brother John, andon the 5th of April. 1850, anchored off the mouth of Eel i;IVl .,, the Laura Virginia also coming to anchor there. Two boats each commanded by a Brannan, entered the river which they named Brannan River, followed by a boat from Ottinger's vessel, which was swamped in the surf and Julias S. Rowen mpany decided to i ta Q on Mendocino (Huraboldl Bay and cut a canal through to Brannan E( I River, which was I i be their highway to the mines i he CITV OF WARNERSVILLE. The following letter from Captain Warner, taken from the Alia dated at Trinidad Bay, April 10, I 150, fives an idea of the situation of the new town on Trinidad Bay. "I arrived here to-da} in the brig Isabel; i lediately went on Lore and laid out part of a town, I urveyed about ten fifty-vara lots, taking R. A. Parker's south base line for my north lines and his west lines for my west lines, bordering on the Indian village to the east, and running clown to the water I immediately built a house, and erected the American flag some sixty or seventy feet above the hill. This hill or knoll 1 intended for an observatory. " We have called our location Warnersville. Below we have a tine valley, dotted with many fine trees and a fine soil. Already we have made many improvements, put up several houses and made a road to the hill. This place we call Isabel Valley, at which we have left some mi o to improve in our absence Trinidad po ' > and soil adapted to cultivation. As yet we have not learned the correct distance to the mines, but believe it to be about forty miles. HOUSES ERECTED AND OFFICERS ELECTED. "Improvements are progressing with the utmost rapidity. Mr. R. A Parker put up the first house, Mr. Van Wyck the the second, and myself the third. We had an election on the 13th, and chose an Alcalde, Second Alcalde, and Sheriff. We polled 140 votes. What do you think of that for a town three days old? This place has fine streams of good fresh « A party of Canadians have just arrived, consisting of fourteen men and two females, with sixteen fine pack horses. They brin« flattering news from Trinity River. This place abounds

102 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS. with all kinds of game and fine woodlands. The bay is a good harbor with all winds except south and south-west; those blow directly into the harbor. The correct latitude of the bay is 41° 5' 56". " We found a number of Indians but they are inclined to be peaceable. Bark Oalinda lost three passengers, brig Arabian five, and schooner General Morgan one. These men were lost in landing in the breakers below the port. "Yours, Captain R. V. Warner. " Of brig Isabel." Captain Warner was mistaken about the men lost, for it was the Lawra Virginia and not the General Morgan that lost a man off the mouth of Eel River. The five men lost by the Arabian were Lieutenant Bache, United States Navy, Lieutenant Browning, United States Navy, John H. Peoples, W. W. Cheshire, and John Purdy, their boat being capsized in the surf, four miles below Point St George. Besides these disasters the Paragon, Eclipse and several other vessels ran aground on the bar at the entrance of Humboldt Bay, or else were stranded in the surf off Trinidad. This, with the supposed loss of the Cameo, made quite a string of disasters, and gave rise to the following briny yarn, whose author is unknown, the Alta publishing it June 14, 1850. The Cameo did not meet the watery grave it was supposed to be resting in at the date the "machine" ground out the following doggerel. THE LEGEND OF THE CAMEO; — OR — THE PHANTOM BRIG. RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED TO SIR ROBERT RIDLEY. 'TWAS many years ago, In San Francisco Bay, A vessel called the Cameo With many others lay; For stories of our golden sands Had spread throughout the world, And vessels there from every land, Lay with their sails unfurled. Full many a mountain steep was scaled, And many a rock was cleft; Some few found gold, but many failed, And were of life bereft; But death and danger still were spurned, The tide still onward rolled, And all creation was upturned, In that mad search for gold. Ere long the country was o'errun, And gold could not be had, And many people then began To talk of "Trinidad"; And some affirmed that they had seen A man, who heard one say He knew a person who had been In sight of that same bay, And that some forty miles from there, He dug ten thousand pounds Of gold, and any one might share Who'd go and ship it round. The story spread, like any lie, A party sailed in haste, But soon returned — the reason why, They could not find the place. Sir Robert Ridley then did swear That he was bound to. go, And he would carry people there In the old Cameo. The victims rushed their fare to pay, For Robert did them tell, That he would surely " find the bay, Or run the brig to h— 1 '* And which of these two things he did Will soon appear before ye, If ye will but take pains to read The rest of this true story. The day of sailing came at last, And all were there on hand; The sails were set and soon they passed The outmost point of land. The grog was good, they all felt gay, And all things promised well; Says Bob, " We'll either find the bay, Or run the brig to h — 1." One day they came in sight of land; A party went on shore; But none of all that lucky band E'er saw the Cameo more; But many a sailor tells a tale Of the old Cameo's host, Doomed to the end of time to sail Along the northwest coast. Long days, and weeks, and months passed on The Cameo ne'er came back; A schooner, called the Paragon, Was started on her track; For still the golden fever raged, And people were so mad As ships and pilots to engage. To go to Trinidad; And all along that rooky shore, Where'er a boat could land, Some one would start a canvas store,' And a large city plan. The Paragon had sailed some time, When one morn, just at light, The wind being fair, the weather fine, A vessel hove in sight; And with a glass they did discern, What much they wished to know, Her name, for upon her stern It was, the Cameo. The men on board the. Paragon Gazed on the brig with fear, And as they slowly moved along, Each moment drawing near. And saw the strange, unearthly look Of vessel and of crew, Their limbs as with an ague shook, And pale their faces grew; For in those forms, that looked so wan, These pale and death-like faces, They recognized full many a man They'd seen in other places. Sir Robert soon the schooner hailed, And wished to know her name, Where she was bound and when she sailed, And from what port she came; And when the answers all were given, He cried in accents sad, "There is no harbor under heaven Called ' Bay of Trinidad.' " And sighs, and groans and shrieks were heard, As down from mortal view, Beneath the wave they disappeared, That phantom brig "and crew; And while they gazed in sore dismay, There rose a sulph'rous smell, And loud was heard " We'll find the bay, Or run the brig to h — 1." That night the schooner anchored near, And there arose a gale, Which gave the crew new cause of fear, And made stout hearts to quail ; For ragged rocks were all around. 'Gainst which the waters roared, Which certainly was not a sound,

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FIRST DI8COVBRIE8 BY LAND AND SBA. LOS 'i o ' foi I those on board; And nil prepared to meet their fate, And though! I hal hopt And thronged upon the 'leek to wait The parting of tin1 chain. The schooner trembled like a reed, 'I Inn with ;in awl'ul Bhocki Tin' chain gave way, and on with speed She hastened towardi tin' rwlc. Kui cool and calm, devoid of fear, Did her bold captain utand, And clear of rock her course did steer i Hrect upon the sand. The crow were Baved, but there she lays, Dismantled and forlorn. The prettiest schooner of these days, The famous Paragon. The hri^ Arabian next did meet The Cameo on the wave, And of hex crew, ere sun had set, Five found u watery grave; For when the phantom brig appears, Most dire is the effect; The sight of her has been for years Forerunner of a wreck. Bui onward she is doomed to sail, Along the rock-bound coast, And when mosl loudly roars the gale, is Been the Cameo's ghost; And then a voire is heard to say, Willi loud, unearthly yell, "By God, we'll cither find the bay, Or run the brig to h — 1." May l, 1S50. The news that Trinidad Bay bad been discovered spread like wild-fire, and a dozen expeditions began to fit out, a few by land but most of them by sea, some of them having members of the late exploring party connected with them, and Rome "going it blind" on general principles. Besides the town of Hnmboldt, two others were laid out on Humboldt Bay in April, 1850, Eureka and Union, that became its rivals as well as Trinidad. During the same month the town of Reading was laid out on the Sacramento River by Major P. B. Reading, as a supply point for the Trinity Mines. During all this time the Trinity Mines were fast filling up by men from the Sacramento Valley. A number had wintered there, and as early as February they began to pour in across Trinity Mountain, settling generally on the North Fork. Many wore induced not only to embark in the sea expeditions, but to hasten overland to the new mines, by such letters as the following in the Sacramento and San Francisco papers:— "Sacramento City, March 9, 1850. "The latest news from Trinity is that seven men and two boys have just arrived in this city from there with $150,000. Mr. J. D. Baker, formerly proprietor of the Brannan House, is n,.w in my office and tells me that he has seen the -old, which is in some forty large-sized bags. Mr. Moran, one of the party, has deposited his portion at Mr. Lee's store (formerly Priest. Lee & Co.), of this city. The party left here in the latter part of December, 18+0. Two of the men are from New York, two from New Jersey, and the others from Oregon. Beat this from the southern mines if you can. "When communication was opened between the new towns on the coast and the mines, which was not effected until May, vere about 2,000 miner- -in tin- riv.jr'" MIXH IGHTKSED. It did not take long then to gel '!"• tocography of the country straightened out It was found that Eel River was by no means a highway to the mines, and that both Trinidad and Humboldt Bays were of little use to the miners on Trinity River, who could communicate more easily and cheaply with the Sacramento Valley than with the sea. It was also lound that the Trinity River, whose eccentric course had so deceived the early prospectors, did not enter the ocean at all, but was simply a tributary of the Klamath. To see how this became known we must go back a little. Among those who wintered on the Trinity were Robert U. Shaw, James Chick, Samuel Jackson and Julius Holtzwart. These men started down the river on the 1st of March, 1850, intending to go to its mouth in a canoe. They had progressed some thirty miles, when the canoe overturned, and all but Shaw were drowned. Thus was the knowledge of the location of Trinity and Klamath Rivers delayed till they were entered from the sea in April. On the 3d of April Captain Ottinger of the Laura Virginia had discovered the mouth of the Klamath, but could not enter it. He located it in 41° 33' and supposed it to be the Rogue River, as he considered it too far north for the Trinity. Fremont had given the latitude of the Klamath at its source as 42° 27', and for this reason it was supposed to lie much farther to the north, in Oregon. DISCOVERIES MADE BY THE CAMEO. When the Cameo was driven from off Trinidad in March and supposed to be lost, she proceeded to Point St. George, near Crescent City and landed a part of the passengers consisting of B. W. Bullett, Herman Ehrenberg, J. T. Tyson, A. Heepe and Mr. Gunns, explored the coast to the south on foot, and on the 10th of April reached the Klamath, which they supposed at first to be the Trinity. They explored the river up beyond the mouth of the Trinity, and parties coming down that stream soon settled the identity of both rivers. A few miles above the mouth of the Klamath they took up 1 60 acres of land each, on the south bank, and then started down the coast for Trinidad. They reached that place on the 13th and told of the discovery of the river. KLAMATH CITY" LAID OUT. A number of others of the Cameo returned with them to lay out the new town, which they called Klamath City. Here they learned the fate of five others of the Cameo party who had followed them down from Point St. George in a boat. They had been upset in the surf and four of them drowned, Eugene Du Bertrand alone being rescued by an Indian. This river was variously called Rogue, Chester, Trinity and

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104 FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS^ Klamath, the lattern B found the correct one. A party ored it for a long distance in May, passing the mouth of of the Trinity.and returning the same month, have been driven out by hostile [ndians. Miners on Dpper Trinity River, with tbci] u ual i" Lie ne . pushed, down thai stream, and thus settled the oh-mootod poinl of where the mouthof the river Pro pi cting partii up the Klamath and others down the Trinity """ ''' :ii ''' ' '" ,|""1'' "'' '" ""' 1'"'a,i"n aI1<1 nanies of the i \v<> i 1 1 am Klamath I % had but a brief and inglorious career. It was bo liscovered that the shifting sands at the mouth kept so in, ... ;, Nik altering and obstructing the channel, that it wasa raatter:of considerable uncertainty when a vessel could enter, and when once inside it was just as uncertain when it could gel out again. Nosooricrwas this fact realized than the people, to use mi e i'i'r live phrase, "slid out," and the beautiful metropolis, With its projected parks, boulevards and institutions of [earning became again a mountain wild, and so remains at i he present time. i:iv \l. TOWNS ON BOTH HAYS. The towns of Trinidad and Eumboldt Bays vied with' each other in their endeavors to secure trade and travel. Every issue or the San Franeisco Alta contained letters from both, lauding their advantages to the skies and decrying the rivals. The Eumboldt people said that Trinidad Bay was not a safe harbor, in fact, no harbor at all, while the Trinidad proprietors asserted that a vessel could pass neither in nor out of Humboldt Bay in safely, because of the bar at the entrance. Both claimed to be nearest to the mines and to have the best road to them, and they also both claimed to be doing all the business I J let was done. The fact was that neither of them was in a situation favorable to do much business with the mines on Trinity River, but the discovery of gold on the Klamath, Salmon, and Scott Rivers during the spring and summer, to which region they were the most accessible points, saved them from wasting away like a plucked rose. RICH DIGGINGS ABE FOUND. Early in June a number of men crossed the ridge from the north fork o\ the Trinity and came upon the south fork of the .Salmon River, which they followed down to the forks and I I mm e struck rich diggings. Severel hundred men collected there and spread up the north fork, working at various points along the stream. During the same month a party consisting of I Joins Johnson, James Duffy, Van Duzen, Dollarhide and a number of others, went on an exploring expedition up the Klamath from its mouth. They proceeded about as far as Eappy Camp, wjben the Indians became so hostile they had to turn back. Leaving the river they struck across the mountains and reached the forks of Salmon River. PROSPECTING UP THE KLAMATH. They related wonderful stories of the richness of the bars on the Klamath River, asserting that a man could make two ounces a -lay. This was enough. A company of some forty men was formed to go on a prospecting tour on the Klamath, in search of two-ounce diggings. The party left the forks of the Salmon in July, and struck across the country in a nortlvwestely direction, reaching the Klamath, which there runs nearly south, a distance above the mouth of Salmon River. Their first move was to cross the stream to the west side, which they did by making a raft of two lows, secured by a lariat, upon which their effects were placed, and which they pushed across the stream, the men and stock swimming. This method of transportation was used in all their frequent crossings of the river. They had secured a Klamath Indian or two for guides, being able to maintain an aggravating and uncertain conversation with them by means of the Chinook jargon, with which they were all slightly familiar. They then started up the stream, following an Indian trail, knowing that the best routes would there be found, sometimes going directly away from the river, across a spur of mountains, but always getting back to it again. Their Indian guides would go with them as far as the limits of the range of their tribe or band and then stop, but others soon appeared in camp. Major Cook, probably to be provided for any emergency, was driving along a good fat steer, but one day it commenced rolling down a steep declivity, and when it reached the bottom it was quickly resolved from steer into minced beef, being left for the Indians to regale themselves upon, if they chanced to find it. In this way they passed up the stream, prospecting in a superficial and unsatisfactory way all the bars and streams they passed, frequently crossing the river for that purpose, and always getting "color," but never finding any twoounce diggings. One noon they camped a little more than half a mile below Scott River, and a few of them swam over to Hamburg Bar, where were congregated a large number of Shasta Indians, with whom they talked and visited. After prospecting a little on the bar, they returned to camp, and the compauy resumed its journey. All are familiar with the bend in the river where Scott River empties into it, and it will be readily understood how, in following the trail over the spur of the mountain, around which the river makes a broad sweep, they missed seeing Scott River, although passing within half a mile of its mouth. The next day near Oak Bar, where they also prospected, they lost a man by means of the Indians, and after that had considerable difficulty with them, the details of which will be given in another place. The highest point reached was, a mile above the mouth of the Shasta River. Here they were overtaken and joined by the party of Rufus Johnson, which had been

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RESIDENCE OF MRS. A. MONROE, COR.OF E.AND 9TH.STS. EUREKA, CAL .^.J?c^^

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FIRST DISCOVERIES BY LAND AND SF.A. reorganized, the united company bi They then crossed to the Bonth bide, and tarted for Sha ta Valley, a glimpse of which they had obtained from the op] bills. As the beautiful valley with its wealth of tall, waving grass and its snow-crowned l ing, grand old Sha ta, opened before their vision, it seemed like a veritable Garden of I bo different was it from the rugged and precipitous mountains through which they had been passing. After considerable prospecting they finally settled down foi the winter at Middlefcown, where were aleo quartered hundreds of others, who penetrated this region the next spring. EXI'I.OKATIONS OF KLAMATH AND TRINITY. Rufus Johnson went down the Klamath and reorganized his party, and again started up the stream. At the mouth of the Trinity he fell in with Charles McDermit, Abisha Swain, j0hn W. Burke, Stevens, Charles D. Moore, and Buck, who went with him as far as the mouth of the Salmon, where they Btopped to mi...-, while the Johnson party continued up the Klamath. They prospected in a number of places, and finally Came to Scott River and did a little work there. In this party of Borne forty men there were Ruf us Johnson, Dollarhide, Duffy, Snyder, and Van Duzen. They left Scott River and continued up the Klamath, overtaking and joining the Jones and Bean party near the mouth of Shasta River. But a few days after the departure of Johnson's party from Scott River, a small company of men from the forks of Salmon, led by John Scott, arrived there and went to work, the place being named by them Scott Bar. They had, however, worked here but a short time when the Indians made such hostile demonstrations as to induce them, being few in number, to abandon the river. They went up the stream to the valley, and then over the divide to the north fork of Salmon, and thence over to Trinity where the news of their discovery soon spread and several parties were organized to find the river, some of them led by members of the Scott party. Some of this company went to Trinidad and others to Reading's Springs, and in this way the fame of Scott Bar was rapidly spread abroad, and as it was considered dangerous to winter in the mountains many made asilent resolve to go to Scott Bar early in the spring as was safe. A few days after Scott's party was chased off the river Jesse J. Pool was working on the north fork of Salmon River when an Indian, arrayed simply in a breech-clout, appeared before him and opened a conversation in Chinook, which .Fool could not understand. "Close turn turn," said he.snnting himself on the breast and smiling in a winning way, "Boston man Hi you, Shasta," pointing over the mountains to the northeast. Seeing that he was not fully understood, he took Pools pan putinsomesmallstones and began shaking the implement as if washing dirt, all the time laughing and saying, "Hi you *oston mal Hi you, Hi you, Shasta." Pool decided that he was trying to tell him there was a party of white men mining on Shasta River, and that they were finding coarse lumps of gold. That there was such a river as Shasta, all the miners knew, and they expected to find it to the east, in fact when Salmon River was first found it was supposed to be the Shasta. He is that the Indian referred to Scott's party on Scott Bar, and by ' Shasta " meant over towards Mount Shasta. He told his partner, Moa Du enberry, what he thought, and they went up the stream a short distance and got eleven more to join them in a trip over the mountains. A careful search revealed a fresh trail. This they followed into Scott Valley, where they were delayed three days by reason of Indians stealing some of their stock, and then continued on till they reached Scott Har, where they found a party of about fifty men had arrived but the day before. At the head of this company was Doctor Goodwin, and they had come direct from Trinity River, where they had been informed of the discovery here by some members of Scott's party. It was probably due to their coming over the trail that made the confusion of tracks. Doctor Goodwin, Pool. Dusenberry and ten others formed a company and put in a wing dam. This was just below the bridge on the opposite side from the present town of Scott Bar. They made hand-barrows of beef hides. From that time till the present day mining has been carried on unremittingly along Scott River. THE GOLD BLUFF EXCITEMENT. There is one other element that entered into the development of this region that must not be overlooked/and that is the Gold Bluff excitement. In the month of May, 1850, B. Nordheimer, J. H. Stinchfield, Charles D. Moore, and a number of others, were going up the sea-shore from Trinidad to the new town of Klamath City, when they observed gold in the .and on the ocean beach. They took some of this, but it was so mixed with fine gray and black sand that they could do nothing with it. They passed on, and no attempt was made to work the sea-shore deposit. In the fall, J. M. Maxwell and Richardson went to the bluff and began operations. They soon found that it was but occasionally that the gold ^yas visible. The bluff is several miles long and 400 feet high with but few feet between it and the sea. In tunes of storm at high tide the surf beats against the bluff and washes down the quartz that partially composes it. The fine grains of oold that thus become mixed with the sand are sometimes brought to the surface by the action of the water, and sometimes0 buried out of sight. Maxwell and Richardson watched their opportunity, and when the glistening particles appeared on top of the sand, they filled buckskin bags with the mixture of sand and gold, and carried it back on the bluff to be worked over at their leisure. The gold was so fine and the sand so heavy that they only saved a small per cent, of what the mixture contained.

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" FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS. iNVv. wonderful beach of gold went to San Francisco, and a compan ranized, that chartered the steam* 11 CA ipeake, to explore the place. She arrived off Gold Bluff on the 23d of December, 1850, and the next morning i hi a boat ashore. This was broken up in the surf, but tin; occupani i succeeded in reaching the beach in safety. The others, aot wishing to land in such a damp and dangerous manner Bailed for the mouth of the Klamath, but could not cross the bar. They then returned to Trinidad and went up the coast on foot with pack-mules owned by J. C. Campbell. The ChceapeaJce then returned to San Francisco to report the success of the expedition, The Alta California contained the following, January 0, 1851: — "A Nl5W El Dorado.— We have been all along prepared to hear marvelous accounts of discoveries of gold; that it would be as abundant as lead seemed not altogether improbable; and we have looked forward to a time when a man would have to give a cart-load of the precious metal in exchange for a barrel of wheat. But there is nothing left for credulity now. The world has never heard of such wealth as lies on the shores of the Pacific. "It is well known that the steamer Chesapeake, with about thirty adventurers, left this port on the 21st ultimo, for the Klamath, and in yesterday's paper we gave some account of her progress. Scarcely was our paper issued when the ChesapeaJee came into port, bringing back five or six of the 'prospectors/ Gen. John Wilson and John C. Collins, Esq, among the number. A meeting of the stockholders was called, to hear the result of the expedition, which meeting we attended, and if we can bring our ideas down to anything like reason after hearing the wonderful details, we will let the public into the secret. GOLD BLUFF MINES. " Twenty-seven miles beyond the Trinity/there is a beach several miles in extent and bounded by a high bluff. The sands of this beach are mixed with gold, to an extent almost beyond belief. The sands are of two kinds, a fine black sand and a gray sand. The gray sand can be separated very easily from the black sand, and this seems to be a desirable object. The *0ld is mixed with the black sand in proportions from ten cents to ten dollars to the pound. At times when the surf is high, the gold is not easily discovered, but in the spring of the year, after a succession of calms, the entire beach is covered with a bright and yellow gold. Mr. Collins, the Secretary of the Pacific Mining Company, measured a patch of gold and sand, and estimates it will give to i ach member of tlu company the snug little sum of $48,000,000, and this estimate is formed upon a calculation that the sand holds out to be one-tenth as rich as observation warrants them in supposing. "The Pacific Mining Company (the adventurer., of the Chesapeake have banded themselves together under this title) found some nineteen men at these diggings. The men had no disposition to dig, for the gold was all readj for them whenever they felt disposed to take it. Besides, such is the character of the roads, that they cannot take away more than seventy-five to 100 pounds apiece — an amount too trifling for their consideration. The}r had erected a comfortable log cabin, and designed watching this claim till spring, and then take a ship-load of the gold and travel to some country where the metal was not so abundant. Mr. Collins saw a man who had accumulated 50,000 pounds, or 50,000 tons— he did not recollect which— of the richest kind of black sand. " General Wilson says that thousands of men cannot exhaust this gold in thousands of years, and be gives all who doubt his statements the liberty of going and ascertaining these facts. "The company will send up 100 additional laborers as speedily as they can be embarked. They also design purchasing a steamer and running her up to the " Gold Blufis." Sixty men are now at the scene of operations. We await with anxiety further reports. Numerous specimens of the sand and gold were exhibited to stockholders at the meeting last evening." In addition to the long article in the Alta, Mr. Collins published two afiidavits he had secured while at the wonderful beach. One was signed by M. C. Thompson and C. W. Kinsey, and the other by Edwin A. Howe, both attested by L. B. Gilkey, Justice of the Peace of Trinity County. They spoke of the nature and richness of the beach, and Howe's contained the following passage: "I am now, however, confident that with the proper arrangements for amalgamating the gold, on a scale as extensive as your company is capable of doing, millions upon millions of dollars can be easily obtained every year for more than a century to come." A RUSH FOR 'THE GOLD BLUFFS. The next day shares demanded a premium. On the 18th, the steamers Chesapeake and General Warren sailed for Gold Blufl! and a few days later the bark Chester. A great many companies were formed and vessels chartered to take them to the auriferous beach. Hundreds reached Trinidad en route to the bluff, but were met with the news that the gold could not be separated from the black sand, and that it was a waste of time and money to attempt it. Still many went to be convinced by experience, and when so convinced pushed on up the Klamath to the Salmon Mines. It was principally these adventurers, unprovided with supplies, who crowded into the Salmon country and produced the starvation times there. All efforts to work the beach on an extensive scale failed and were abandoned. Every year, however, a few men have worked there at a favorable season and made good wages, and they are doing the same at the present time; but how the "millions upon millions have dwindled. The Gold Bluff Mines of later times will be more fully mentioned hereafter

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ORGANIZATION OF f 1 1 " M I ; - OUNTT. !«•; Organization of the County. The First Counties Organized; Rapid Increase of Population; Constant Change of Boundaries; Humboldt Organized; First County Seat Contest; First Courts, Officers, etc., etc. ■•••■as called Trinil with the Trunin the following diagram: — NORTHERN CALIFORINA IX 18! The first election held in the State, in L849, was no! participated in by residents of this region, if any there were a.1 thi time the Stub: was not organized, and election precincts were established only in those interior towns and mining camps thai had sprung inl" recognized prominence during th<5 few short months that had elapsed since had begun that tumultuous rush for the gold-fields of California. As yet the venturesome foot of the prospector had npt pressed the grassy carpel of these northern I altitudes. Of those who were to become the Eounders of the county, some were in the early southern minus, some wore toiling wearily westward, or tossing upon the heaving ho- I the ocean, eager to reach the land of gold and sunshine, while others were still in their eastern homes; with scare..' a though! of that far-off land so soon to beckon them away. Let no unmerited blot he cast upon the grand army of adventurers who reached these western sh-.res and brought with them the foundations of our society, schools, churches, and homes, and here established a great State. NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. Upon the subdivision of the State into counties in 1850, Mr. Wathall. member of Assembly of the delegation from the Sacramento District, which included the Sacramento Valley to the Oregon line, proposed the names of Shasta and Trinity for the northern part of the State, winch at that time included what is now Del Norte, Humboldt, Trinity, Siskiyou. Modoc, Lassen, Shasta, and a part of Butte County. Our history must of necessity include the territory which was at one time Trinity, Klamath, and Del Norte. For the purpose of explaining the changes which have taken place in the two northern counties of the State since its first organization, we present a series of diagrams. They will help to shew the geographical changes which have taken place at different dates. When the State was divided into counties by the Act of E , .ruary is, ISM), this region was a terra incognita to the legislators. The Trinity excitement was then at its he.ght, but still little was known of that region, the population having progressed but little beyond the diggings on the Sacramento River and Clear Creek, and about Shasta, all the northeastern part of this territory was erected into one county called Shasta, with the county seat at Reading's Ranch. The no, th western e s Trinil , ( • -M 1 1 1 ■. County O X All that portion of the State lying weal of SI and embracing what afterwards formed Trinity, Humboldt, Klamath and I h I Noi te I !ounl ii ated Trinity I fount] Km as ii v. omparatively unknown region, it ws tached to Sha ta for Judicial purposi - This action wae tal < n because it \va-. • ■ •■: | n-t-1 «-«l that :i lap.'c population would >o..n !"• id on Trinity River and about the Bay of Trinidad. KLAMATH COUNTY ORGANIZED. Trinity County was divided in 1852. All south of a line due east from the mouth of Mad River being Trinity, and all north of that line Klamath I founty. The California Legislature of 1850-51 provided forthe or ization of Klamath County, and ordered an election to be held on the second Monday in June, 185L The act was approved on May 28, 1851, and R. A. Parker, W. W. Hawks, Edward Fletcher Smith Clark and B. W. Dullitt, of said county, were appointed and constituted a Board of Commissioners to de ignate the election precincts for such election. The officers were duly elected and the county government took effect immediately after. This act also reorganized Trinity County, and the territory assumed the following shape : — NORTHERN CALIFORNIA IN 1851. Oregon Klamath Shasta County Trinity The Legislature appointed commissioners to designate election precincts and superintend the election. Five commissioners were appointed, none of whom were from what is now Trinity County; two were from Humboldt City, two from Eureka and one from Union (Areata). The following were the first officers elected for Klamath: County Judge, Dr. Johnson Price; District Attorney, William Cunningham; County Clerk, John C. Burch; Sheriff, Wm. H Dixon; Assessor, J. W. McGee; Treasurer, Thos. L. Bell. A contest immediately arose as to the location of the county seat. By a famous poll book from a precinct called Simpson's Hole, which polled seventy-five votes for Eureka, it received a

103 ORGANIZATION OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY. majority of the votes. But the Judge ordered a new election, and Weaverville became the victor. .Some irregularity occurred at this election and another vote was had in the fall of 1852, but Weaverville was finally crowned the victor. SISKIYOU COUNTY ORGANIZED. When the Legislature met in 1852, it created several new counties in the State, and among others Siskiyou. So rapidly did the population increase in 1851, that it became absolutely necessary to form a new county. The county seat of Shasta was too far away, and the inconvenience of doing official busiaess there was so great that the need of a new county was imperative. By Act of March 22, 1852, the County of Siskiyou was created and an election called for May H, 1852, to select the first officers. Wilson T. Smith, H. G. Ferris, D. H. Lowry, I Charles M. Tutt and Theodore F. Rowe were appointed commissioners under the act, to supervise the election and organize the county. The commissioners held their meetings and canvassed the votes in the Verandah, the most popular saloon in Yreka, and seemed to give as much satisfaction as in the most elaborate temple of justice ever erected. The Act of Organization also provided for the assumption by Siskiyou County of its just proportion of the debt of Shasta County, contracted while it was a portion of that body. The territory now formed four counties as per diagram : — NORTHERN CALIFORNIA IN 1852. Oregon Klamath Siskiyou Trinity Shasta The exact location of the boundary line between California and Oregon was not definitely determined upon until the fall of 1SG8, when the line was run by the surveyors of the United States Government. In a number of localities bordering upon the line, the collection of taxes had been for some time a matter of difficulty. The establishment of the line by the Government settled the point beyond all controversy, and monuments now mark the spots where the line crosses the traveled hic*hways and other points of importance. HUMBOLDT COUNTY FORMED. By act of the Legislature, approved May 12, 1853, Trinity County was divided into two parts. The western portion was organized into Humboldt County, and the eastern part retained the name of Trinity. The Clerk of Trinity was required to restore to the Clerk of Humboldt County the books, records, maps and papers held by Trinity County, and the same became part of the records of Humboldt, including maps of the towns of Union (Areata), Eureka and Bucksport. This chance in boundaries made the territory into five counties as follows: NORTHERN CALIFORNIA IN 1S53. Oregon Klamath Siskiyou Humboldt Trinity Shasta The act provided its boundaries shall commence at a point in the ocean three miles due west of Mad River, thence due east from the point of beginning to the Trinity River (this old line is shown on our county map) thence up the Trinity River to the mouth of Grouse Creek; thence south to the north line of Mendocino Count}', and thence to the ocean. This boundary was rather indefinite and caused considerable trouble as we shall see hereafter. The territory cut off comprised all that part of Trinity County that lay between the south fork of the Trinity River and the coast, being " a strip some fifty or sixty miles along the coast of rough wooded country," as described at that time. The organization of Humboldt will be fully described in another place. DEL NORTE COUNTY FORMED. In 1857 the Legislature decided that there should be a new county formed with the county seat at Crescent City. Now begins the disintegration of Klamath which finally disappears from the map. Del Norte was formed from the northern portion of Klamath County, as per diagram:— NORTHERN CALIFORNIA IN 1857. Oregon. Del Norte Klamath Siskiyou Humboldt Trinity Shasta Officers of Del Norte were elected in May, 1857. The county was divided into three Supervisor Districts. The County Judge was to receive 31,000 per annum. The county was attached to Klamath for representative purposes, and to the 12th Senatorial District, and to the 8th Judicial District. It was first named "Buchanan," but the Committee on Counties and County Boundaries, to whom was referred a bill to establish the new county and define its boundaries, reported it back with the amendment, the name of the county, "Buchanan," be struck out and that "Dei Norte" be inserted in its stead. Other names had been suggested. One was " Alta."

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PROPERTY OF

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NE- HUMBOLDT CO.CAL

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ORGANIZATION OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY. 101 Another, "AH i sima," as it was the farthest county north. Among othei was the name " Rincoo," and "Del Merritt.1 The boundarie embraced all the country on both Bides of the Klamath Rivei .-is high as a point five miles above the mouth canons too deep to interrupt their progi Towns and up a- by magic, and polu ins were soon demi proper government of the i in. i .-i ing population. As lias been already noti I, the search for the mineswaa the magnet which drew hither th- bands of ea p »disi and located the various points on the bay The trade was dom wholly upon the Lower Trinity Soon other places began to attract tin' floating ] papulation of miners Sel blements began to exl snd lower down the Trinity Rivei on to New River. The Klamath opened a new field for trade and enterprise, and its tributary, the Salmon, cam.: next I m all these rivers the miners made from one to six ounces per daj The western portion of Trinity along the bay so increased in population that a new county was a matter of necessity and Trinity was made into two counties. BOUNDARIES OF THE COUNTY. The Act of May 12, 1853, organizing Humboldt County, provided that the line is "to commence at a point in the ocean, three miles due west of the mouth of Mad River; thence due east from the point of beginning to the Trinity River; thence up the Trinity River to the mouth of the north fork of said Trinity River, running along the eastern side of said north fork 100 feet above high water mark to the mouth of Grouse Creek, and thence in a due south direction to the fortieth degree of north latitude and thence west to the ocean, etc." These lines were somewhat indefinite and for a while considerable conflict of authority and double taxation ocurred along the Trinity River and on the northern boundaries. But they were finally amicably settled by the lines being more definitely determined. COUNTY SEAT CONTEST. Very naturally there arose a great contest over the location of the county seat of the new county. Rival towns along the bay exerted themselves to the utmost to secure the coveted prize, and great bitterness of feeling was engendered as the contest deepened. Union, as it was then called, was designated as the seat of justice. Bucksport and Eureka were not pleased, and became jealous rivals. At the first contest for location of county seat, the people of Eel River in conjunction with all the rural districts of that part of the county joined with Bucksport and supported that place for the location, but Union (Areata) bore off the prize. The air was filled with charges of fraud and dishonest voting. A petition containing over one-third of the voters of the county was readily obtained and application made for another contest, which was entered into with great zeal on both sides. An election to settle the matter by popular vote was called.

110 ORGANIZATION OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY. cnrS-TY JUDGE CALLS ELECTION. Where* a petition, signed by qualified electors of the Goanty of Humboldt, equal to at least one-tlrird of all the vot^s in the county at the last general election, has been duly ,,„,,„,, fco fche undersigned County Judge of said county, praying for the removal of the seat of justice from the place where it is now fixed, and that an election be held to determine to what place such removal shall be made. Therefore, in pursuance of an act entitled " An Act to provide for the permanent location of Seats of Justice of the several counties," passed April 11, 1850, and of an act amendatory thereof, passed May 13, L854, I do hereby give notice to the electors of Humboldt County, that an election will be holden on the 25th day of October, 1854, for bhe purpose of determining whether, and to what place the removal of the seat of justice of Humboldt County shall be made. ^ E. Wyman, County Judge, Humboldt County. Dated September 14, 1S54. EUREKA CLAIMS COUNTY SEAT. A meeting of the citizens of Eel River was held at the house of A. B. Liles on the 19th of September, 1854, with B. T. Jamison Chairman, and E. L. Dorris Secretary. It was resolved that the south end of the county was materially injured by the selection of Union Town, and " we the citizens of Eel River take this method of expressing our preference for Eureka." The following committee were appointed to issue an address: Messrs. L. W. Fish, E. L. Davis, J. N. Borden, B. J. Jamison and J. Burrell. In their address they say : " We believe Eureka will poll a greater number of votes for herself than Bucksport can possibly do for herself, and that Union Town will poll a greater number of votes in favor of that delectable village than at the last election. And now we ask you to consider whether you ought or not to join us in support of Eureka, and thus try once more to overbalance, by honest votes, the frauds which will— to judge by the past— inevitably be practiced in Union." The citizens of Bucksport and vicinity pledged themselves that in case Eureka received at the first election a larger number of votes than Bucksport, that at the second election they would vote for Eureka, and vice versa, but the arrangement does not seem to have been carried out. BUCKSPORT CLAIMS COUNTY SEAT. A committee of citizens interested in giving the county seat to Bucksport, issued an address, in which they say:— " That Bucksport is the most appropriate place for county seat in Humboldt County. It has the best town site, the best natural advantages for a commercial city, and by far the best water on the bay for shipping purposes. That it is the nearest central of any of the places proposed, and most accessible; that it will acommodate the citizens generally better than any other place, produce more general quiet, and that, when once established, will be far more likely to remain permanent than any other place on the bay; are facts of so general notoriety and so well established in the minds of most unbiased persons, that arguments to substantiate them are unnecessary." In the Humboldt Times of October 14, 1854, is published a conveyance from Wm. Roberts to the committee for the purpose of laying such honorable motives before the public as shall secure the election of Bucksport for county seat. Wm. Roberts agreed to convey by deed to the trustees named below, a large portion of his quarter section of land at Bucksport, on which is situated that most beautiful plateau overlooking the bay and ocean. The deed provided for surveying into lots fifty by one hundred feet, and that every citizen of the county outside of Bucksport precinct, shall be entitled to a lot of that size for the nominal price of one dollar, if he support Bucksport for county seat, and it be elected as such. It provided also that the county be entitled to a choice block of land anywhere on his premises for county buildings, to be selected by the County Judge, or such commissioners as may be duly appointed. Signed by following committee :— S. B. Knox, A. Caldwell, J. C. Martin, C. A. Pine, A. J. Huestis, J. Clarke, Wm. Edgar. October 21, 1854. RESULT OF THE VOTE. The result of the matter was that neither place received a majority of all the votes cast, as will be seen by the following table : — Union Eureka Bucksport . . . Eel River Table Bluff . . Pacific Angel's Ranch South Fork... Total For Union. 205 3 14 2 1 25 60 310 For Bucksport. 16 13 221 12 12 12 288 For Eureka. 389 1 45 26 7 469 ANOTHER ELECTION ORDERED. It became the duty of the County Judge under the law, to select the two towns obtaining the highest vote, and to order another election. Union and Eureka therefore became the contestants, and the following notice of a new election was given : — " It appearing to me, from the certificate of Lewis K. Wood, County Clerk of Humboldt County, that no particular place received a majority of all the votes cast at the election held on the 25th ult. for the purpose of determining whether and to what place the county seat shall be removed, and that the towns of Eureka and Union received the greatest number of votes at said election, I do hereby order that a new election

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ORGANIZATION OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY. Ill ue i,r.|,i on the 20tfa of November, L854 to determine which of ,,,,i place , Eureka or Union, shall be thi J. E. \V v.m • I 'ounty ./ ■ I,.,!,,,! November 4, 1854. Each of the rival candidates went actively at work for a iinal contest, [t was charged by people of Union thai precinct except their , ca it illegal votes. That soldiei at Bucksport; .sailors at Eureka; Klamath County minersat South Fork, and foreigners at Angel's Ranch. In the meantime, as will he seen by the uumber of votes cast, that the population of the county had rapidly inn ,n(c the Inst vote was taken'. RESULT OF THE SECOND 70TE, Union Eureka South Fork Aneol's Ranch Bucksport Bel River . ■ ■ Table Bluff Total For Union. 429 (i 207 2,136 319 I 9 3,107 For Eureka 5 1,713 9 51 24 L,804 [t was evident that wholesale frauds had been couimited at bhia election. Four thousand eight hundred and twenty-eight VOtes cast in live precincts, where there could not, at most, have been over 800 legal voters, and yet reputable citizens certified to these votes as being cast. The County Judge gave notice that "it appearmg by the certificate of the County Clerk, to me issued and directed, that at the election held November 20, 1854, to determine winch of the two places received the greatest number of votes cast for county seat, a majority of all the votes were given in favor of rjn-oni ^ I do hereby declare the town of Union to be the county seat from and after this date." The County rented rooms and were paying as follows: For Court Room per annum SoOO.OO Clerk's Office " •; ^ Treasurer s Q QQ Sheriffs. " _1__ S920.00 The people of Union were anxious tor the ereetion of a Court House but the Supervisors declined to take any -u** Tn lvs„U. was that the contest was eontinued. and a one unc t was prosed to divide the eounty so that each place con,* ,_'a county sea, The proposed division »» — the center of the channel at the entrance and run up £ north end of Indian Island and across to the nrou h of ^ Slough and up to its head, and thenee across to.^J south fork of the Trinity and down that stream to the T n down the Trinity to the Kla,nath thence te *££ -JJ-I the coast to the place of begmmng. But th.s plan work and the .natter was finally settled by the Leg.slatu.e. KA GAIH3 THI OAT. Union re* Location until the Act ..f I ! -1"™ , mug it from that place to Eureka, which act took effect on .May 1. 1856. The Board visors at special meeting, April 12. 1856, posalof R. W. Brett, to furnish the county with a courl room two jui ' ;U1,1 atEo ear fro... the first flaj May, 1 856. Mr. Bretl i erved to himself the use of the court room and with this reservation furnished the rooms mentioned for S2<>i I May, L. K. Wood, County Clerk and ex 0#O0 Recorder, removed the records, books, files, | etc. belonging to those two offices to Eureka in accordance with the Act declaring Eureka the county seat of Humboldt County from and after that day. K, W. Brett who owned the buildings at Eureka occupied by the county for court room and offices, had them improved in January, 1857, by having the court room extended through to the front of the building, the same height and width, making a very spacious room, some seventy-five by twenty-five feet and sixteen feet high. These rooms were used until the Court House was built. PRESENT COURT HOUSE. The county in I860, purchased the block of ground lying between Second Street and the bay-being above the termination of First Street^-and between I Street on the west and K on the east, with a large frame building thereon, built by Hinkle& Co. A contract was then entered into for placing this building suitably on the block, adding wings thereto and finishing the whole for court room and all the county offices according to plans and specifications. The contractor performed the job faithfully and to the entire salification of the Board of Supervisors. a The main building is eighty feet in length parallel with Second Street, by twenty-four deep. In the center there is a front projection, for entry-way, etc., extending towards Second Street twelve feet bv twenty-six feet in width. On the opposite or bay side, there is a wingof the samewidth (twenty-six feet; by thirty in length, giving the building the shape of a cross. It is three stories high and finished throughout. The court room is 46x25 feet in the clear. The jail is over the jailer's department, consisting of one large room and three cells very substantially arranged. The grand jury room occupies the third floor in the eastern end of the main budding. On the front projection are large, gothic windows. The courtroom is lighted by six large, plain windows, three sash each, hung on pulleys. The building is surmounted with a belfry rising from the

112 ORGANIZATION OF HUMBOLDT COUNT V. intersection of the roofs. It is a good frame structure and , upon a solid and extremely well-built stone foundation. The entire cost of the ground and building together was 85,507.00. It, must, however, be admitted that the building is hardly up to fche times or creditable to a wealthy and prosperous county. COUBT OF SESSIONS. The affairs of the county were managed by the Court of Sessions from the organization in 1853, until 1855, when they passed into the hands of the Board of Supervisors. The County Judge as Chief Justice, and two Justices of the Peace, as Associate Justices, composed the Court of Sessions. Annually the County Judge convened the Justices of the Peace of the county, who selected from their own number, two who should act as Associate Justices of the Court of Sessions for the ensuing year. In case of a vacancy or a failure to attend, the County Judge appointed another Justice, and as this frequently occurred, some years half a dozen gentlemen occupied the position. DUTIES OF THE COURT OF SESSIONS. The duties of this Court of Sessions at first were chiefly to administer the affairs of the county, a function now discharged by a Board of Supervisors. In 1851 a radical change was made in the powers of this court by conferring upon it the criminal jurisdiction pi-eviously exercised by the District Court. It had the power to inquire into all criminal offenses by means of a Grand Jury, and to try all indictments found by that body, save those for murder, manslaughter, and arson, which were certified to the District Court. In 1855 the Legislature created Boards of Supervisors in the various counties, leaving to the Court of Sessions only its criminal jurisdiction. In 1863 the Court was abolished and its powers were conferred upon the County Court. DISTRICT COURT. This was the highest local tribunal of original jurisdiction, embracing chancery, civil and criminal causes. As at first created it had original cognizance of all cases in equity, and its civil jurisdiction embraced all causes where the amount in question exceeded §200, causes involving the title to real property or the validity of any tax, and issues of fact joined in the Probate Court. It had power to inquire into criminal offenses by means of a grand jury, and to try indictments, found by that body. In 1851, the Legislature took from this Court its criminal jurisdiction and conferred it upon the Court of Sessions, leaving it the power of hearing appeals from that Court on criminal matters, and the power to try all indictments for murder, manslaughter, arson, and any cases in which the members of the Court of Sessions were personally interested. ADJUSTMENT OF THE DEBT OF TRINITY. By the Act of 1853 for the division of Trinity County and the organization of Humboldt out of the western portion thereof, one-half of the debt of the old county was apportioned to the new. The whole amount of the debt was ascertained by the officers to be between §12,000 and 813,000; that chargeable to Humboldt County being therefore something over SG,000. This last amount was funded, under an act passed subsequently, and bonds were issued for the same, bearing interest at the rate of ten per cent, per annum. A special tax was also provided to pay the interest and ultimately redeem the bonds. FIRST COUNTY ELECTION. We here give the vote in full of the first election after the organization of the county, as it shows very nearly the total voters of the county at that time and the different precincts. Election September, 1854. TABLE OF VOTES CAST AT FIRST COUNTY ELECTION. PRECINCTS. For Clerk of ( Z. It. Beard, Whig Supreme Court ( Chas. A. Leake, Dem. For the Assembly For Dist. Attorney For Treasurer For Corouer A. H. Murdock, Whig A. Flanders, Dem. i Walter Van Dyke, Whij ! E. II. Howard, Dem. j John Vance, Whig I M. Spencer, Dem. J H. D. P. Allen, Whig I J. Johnson, Dem. 79 42 127 87 l>8 110 01 114 107 59 106 m 56 70| 57 23 U 274 305 303 270 299 256 234 326 239 203 JUSTICES OF THE PEACE. Union, J. H. Cowan, Dem., J. A. Whaiey, Dem.; Eureka, D. F. Gilbert, Whig, Thos. Dean, Whig: Bucksport, A. Caldwell, Dem., J. C. Murdock, Whig; Table Bluff, Wra. Espie, Whig, J. Jones, Whig; Eel River, A. D. Sevier, Whig, L. W. Fish, Whig; Pacific, Cutler Hatch, Whig, N. Patrick, Whig; South Fork, J. A. Drake, Whig, N. B. Hill, Whig. report of assessor for 1S54. The following report of the Assessor will give a very good idea of the condition of the county at that date. The quantity of land under cultivation in this county is probably about 2,500 acres; this is chiefly situated in the valley of Eel River and Mad River bordering on the bay. The area of land adapted to grazing is very extensive ; I can give no information as to the quantity. Bordering on the bay and coast the country is principally covered with timber and of excellent quality, consisting chiefly of redwood, pine and spruce. This is probably the best as well as the most extensive lumbering district in the State. The soil is of excellent quality,

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ORGANIZATION OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY. re dead, had left the count .hom not a dollar could be colled ^ refullyexam ,| the mtv officers from the 01 and found them correct Eve. '— > «* d*b' I,, i ! >.-i ii was accounted for. A,,: oeeting they aboliehed the election preaccount- if the frauds comi seat election The'county Assise, was allowed ten dollars pei d. b tbeClerkoftbe Board *200 per year; the Itak Ul ,mey, 1750 per year. Byron Demi,,,- « appended o. oner, and Benj. F. ttyran Public Administrator. They divided the eonnty into six townships, named as 101l„wa. ' Paeilic. Table Bluff, Eel River, Bueksport. Eureka, and Union. And organised six Koad DUtriets bonnded same as the Townships. The Clerk of the county reported the indebtedness ot the eounty. May 1,1855, as follows:- ^ Warrants outstanding 5,150.00 Bonds not redeemed Balance of money due estate ,roducing grains and eseulente in great abundance and variety. The ,.,;,h, limits and boundarie i of this county are no. denned |nC0IWequencfl of no survey being completed, "wing to this f,„, there an- continued disputes as to the whereaboul of the be lanes between this and Klamath, As yet but little fruit !,, been raised, but another year or two will add Hlis brancb of agriculture. There i a large numb. n of fruit '., ,)f v variety adapted to the climate in line growth, -Angel's Ranch and South Fork on ace >) rlel" Jybornefrui, ted at *. places at last L«- — jhequantity of mineral lands known in this county u Bmall T|i,. m„„|„.,. 0f horses, cattle, etc., of the county, as stated be,„w is „s correct as possible, although many immigrant hav, I,,,,,',,,! in the eonnty since these were ennmerated, and have added I" the number somewhat. ,.,,:st c.uARD UF SOPEBVMOBS. rjndor the law of 1855, organising Boards of Supervisors, tboC 7 Judge. J. Toyman, gave notice that , the county WM divided into three districts, corresponding w h the num ,,,. of s •visors to he elected, which were a, follow, to wit: pMificand Table Bluff Townships constituting the Brsti Bueksport and Eureka Townships constituting the sec,„„,. wlll Union and South Fork Townships constituting the Zk district. The election was called to be held on the so 1 Monday of April, 1855, and the place* of holding the F8L>.-Polls at the house of S^hav.-Inspector, 3. L. Shaw Judges, Uri Williams and N. Patrick. S,;:W, Spoils at Tabic Bluff Houses-Inspector, J. Van .\,,,„u„,. lodges, J. U.Myers and John Jones. specter, Dr. J. Clark; Judges, J. 0. Murdoot Vs*a.-Polls at Brett's Hotel.-Jnspctor J. H. X. .„„,„,. John Chamber^ and OH. ^ & ^ ^ trCrHr^^j':dgl.J.H.Cowan,andH. speclor.IS.Uill; Judges, J. A. Diake and F1„ST MEETING OF SUPERVISORS. District, J. S.Bowte, ndelected j0hn Quick, ChairThe Board met May 6, 185., ana e umu- k««rQ pach day, and disposed They continued in session seven hour-, each y, of a large amount of business. of ^ They commenced the — - -** ^ ^ county since its organization. y P ^ some BOme of the county officers to give additional 591.00 .$10,273.05 Total debt COUNTY EXPENSES UP TO 1855. The followingstatement was furnished to the Board by 1 D «. J E Wyman, County Judge, of the liabilities of the county. from th organization July 1. 1853, to the 1st of May, 18... wenty-two months, and for what such liabilities were incurred: y T . ..S3.500.00 Salary of County Judge g_9 -0 Rent of court room, offices, etc ^^ Furniture and stationery for courtroom •••••• ^^ Expenses of elections ^g u0 Per diem fees of Associate Justice . ^ Q(j Grandand trial jurors' fees x Q31 6U Salary of District Attorney • lotion of Trinity County debt apportioned to Humboldt County '."^'."-l' o™*v Expenses of commission to ascertain Tnmty County ^ debt ' * " * * ' ' l 526 80 County Clerk, Auditor and Recorder s fees '. ■ Booksfsafe. furniture, etc., for Clerks ofnee Wo ^.dTespenses of ' guarding ' and' supporting ^ prisons ; • " ' * G5.2G Books/furniture for ^^^Insan^Asylum 280.00 Expenses of carrying lunatic to State Insane y ^ Compensation to School Marshal. .... -^ ^ ; ■ • ■ • ■ Expenses of inquest upon the body of BlaisdeU. ^ Advertising and printing bonds _ _ 822,329.06 ft will he seen that the annua, exposes of the County GovJmUna county numbering less than and children, amounted to S9.6S2.S0. 50

1 14 KLAMATH FORMED AND DISORGANIZED. Klamath Formed and GAN1ZED. DlSORFormalion of Klamath County ; County Seat Contests; Hopelessly in Debt; Conduct of Officers; Final Disorganization and Disappearance, etc. KLAMATH FROM ORGANIZATION TO DISINTEGRATION. As heretofore shown in the diagram on page 107, Klamath County was taken from north half of Trinity in 1852, the year previous to the organization of Humboldt. This county seemed to have an unfortunate career, and after losing the northern part of its territory in 1857, it was finally blotted out in 1874. The first county seat was established at Trinidad, but in 1854, the Legislature declared Crescent City the county seat, and legalized the acts of the County Judge in changing the seat of justice from Trinidad to Crescent City. Notwithstanding Crescent City had the honor of being the county seat, it was six days' hard travel to reach a distant portion of the county like the tributaries of the Salmon River, and so much dissatisfaction existed that by order of the County Judge an election was held September 5; 1855, for chosing a county seat. The people living on the Klamath River were also much dissatisfied, and urged that the county seat be removed to Orleans Bar. At this election a large majority of the voters of Klamath County declared themselves in favor of removing the county seat of said county from Crescent City to Orleans Bar. It was therefore enacted, " That from and after the passage hereof, Orleans Bar shall be, and is hereby declared to be the county seat of Klamath County. That the order of the County Judge, removing the county seat on the 4th day of December, 1855, is hereby ratified and approved. COUNTY BUILDINGS AT ORLEANS BAR. County buildings were constructed at Orleans Bar in 1856, which were " considered an ornament to the county seat." Considerable taste was manifested in the selection of ground for the county buildings, being a square in the rear of the main street, and at an elevation of some twenty feet above the flat on which the town was built, affording a fine view of the place and surrounding country. This place is about 150 miles from Crescent City, the former county seat, and is situated in the midst of a mining district on the Klamath River. Orleans Bar, the new county seat, became the scene of unusual activity. Hundreds of pack mules passed through the place, destined for the upper Klamath and Salmon. Traders were driving a brisk business, miners were doing well, several new buildings were in the process of construction, and competition among the business men ran very high. Goods were plenty and cheap, and good living could be had at a lower rate than at any other place on the coast. The population of the county at this time, 1856, was estimated as follows: Happy Camp, mining population, 100; Indian Creek, 450; other localities down to the mouth of Salmon River, 250; Salmon River, 1,200; Smith's River Valley and Redwood Diggings, mining and farming population, 200; Crescent City, 800; total, 11,700. BOUNDARIES AND CONDITION. The Legislature in 1S55 amended the act forming the County of Klamath so as to have it " begin at a point in the ocean, three miles due west of Mad River, and running thence due east along the northern boundary of Humboldt to Trinity County, thence due north to the northwestern corner of Trinity, thence easterly along said county to Siskiyou, thence northerly to the parallel of 42° (State line) and thence west to the ocean." Klamath County was as badly governed as any county in in the State. Many and loud were the complaints in regard to the financial condition of the county, and much attention was called to the fact that Klamath Count}', although not quite four years old, was badly in debt, without roads, without county buildings, even without a proper safe for her records. The Court of Sessions of Klamath County had, so far as the administration and general supervision of county affairs was concerned, made a complete failure in that particular line of business, and involved the county in debt at a time when it should have had a balance standing in its favor. It is no wonder, then, that a change in the county government was hailed with satisfaction by the tax-payers of the county. The change consisted in an act by the Legislature, transferring the management of county affairs to a Board of Supervisors. FINANCIAL SITUATION. The Board of Supervisors in August, 1855, reported the county S25.000 in debt. They ratified and confirmed all the acts and proceedings of the Court of Sessions except the proceed, ings of the term of Court held at Trinidad long after the county seat had been removed to Crescent City. It was at this term of said Court that the S4.000 was allowed to the County Judge for six months' salary. Upon this the famous scrip was issued that afterwards became so celebrated in the San Francisco stock market. The Treasurer's books had not been properly made up, and according to the books of the Auditor, a large amount ol money had been unaccounted for by the Sheriff. In view of these facts, the Board refused to levy any county tax for that

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KLAMATH KORMBD AND DISORGANIZED. 115 ,.,,,,, The Sheriff had already reported thi taxes li;i,i been collected for fche past year. All this may have been vei v plea ing to the tax pe ,,,..:, certainly fche means of involving the county in a maze of financial difficulties, which it required One of the members of the Board assigned a e rea on for ,1,, i,.,, that " fche county would 1"; just, as well off with ,„,, cifcizens throwing away their money for taxes, for what had Deon collected heretofore had never done any good as they could get no correct account of it." tiik treasurer's statement. The County Treasurer, W.T.Wood, published the following card : — »I was elected to the office of County Treasurer in 1852, with the general ticket of that year. All the moneys that have ever been paid me I safely deposited with the State Treasurer.where it belonged, and in return had his receipt given. It matters not how much 1 paid in, be fche same more or less, it was all 1 had paid me. «] 0ven went bo fche great expense and trouble to travel to Sacramento City in 1854, bo make such settlement. There was then a small balance due the State from the County. All the pa8t years the county has had no charges against her. that is. from '53. AH the funds of this State for L854 were paid over to .1. p, llavi.es, District Attorney, except a small balance yet due from that year, which has not been paid me. For the year 1855, no settlement was ever had with the Controller of the State, which was from the fact that no money was ever in my hands belonging Erom the county to the State chargeable to me on the State's account." HAD STATE OF AFFAIRS. The tax payers having lost all confidence in the officers intrusted with the collection of revenue, refused generally to an extempore charge, which, though brief, was n emphatic and to the point He Bald Klamath County had become a by-word and a reproach among all decent men on account of the corruption and rascalit and said it was time I • pu( a atop to it an I charged fchi ictly into the conduct of the con Muenced neither by fear, wealth or social position of i won. ii, also recommended fco their special attention those pel , l„, ni | . q the habit of maltreating Indians and the vagabonds who travel up and down the rive, without business or means of support excp' gambl Ee stated that within the last three years, sixteen nun had been committed without the leas! notice having been taken of any of them, and he thought it high time that such a state of affairs should be brought to an end REPORT OF THE GRAND JURY. The Grand Jury say that they find the financial condition of the county much embarrassed. The Sheriff absent from the county and delinquent in the sum of $32,461.27. The Treasurer's books in such a confused state that they unable to make any thing out of them, and the Assesser is delinquent in the sum of $39. Speaking of county officers they say: " In the examination of the official acts of the officer and the clearness and accuracy of his accounts, we find the County Clerk deserving our highest approval; and in giving us the information we have required of him in our investigations of the accounts in his office, he has displayed a commendable frankness and courtesy. DISORGANIZATION THE REMEDY. The above statements will give some idea of the situation the county had gradually approached, and it is no wonder fche intrusted with the collection of revenue, refused generally to ^ ^ ^organization was considered by some fche only to pay their taxes. They said they paid their taxes yea. alter H ^ " ^^ ^^ ^ made ^ adjusfc mat. year without benefiting the county or her creditors a farthing. and until a new order uf things is established, they wonld not pay There was such a strong sentiment in the eounty, in support of this refusal to pay that it was impossible for the officers to enforce the collection under the law, and they collected only from such as would pay voluntarily. The people of Klamath County had been outraged beyond measure bv some of her officers. In 1857. the Supervisors of Klamath County were authored to issue bonds of not less than fifty dollars nor more than $500. to the amount of the then connty indebtedness, wrth rate of interest at ten per cent, per annum. JUDGE FLETCHER'S UEM.UUCABLE CHABGE TO JoET. The Court of Sessions.consistmgofJndgeFletcherandAssociters and get the county in a flourishing condition, but without permanent success. As early as 1871, the question of the disorganization of Klamath County was widely discussed by the newspapers of the northern portion of the State. The majority of the people ot that county were in favor of the action. The population had become so reduced, and the assessment valuation was so low, that it was a great burden upon the people to maintain a county government, and an impossibility to pay the debt, that already amounted to over S20.000, and was annually increasing, Under these circumstances it was deemed best to disorganize the county and to annex the territory to the surrounding counties as would be the most convenient and for the best interest of the citizens. A bill to submit the question of disorganizaTheCourfcof Sesdons.consisfcingof » ^"^^ | tion to a popular vote of Klamath County was introduced into ate Justices Darling and Mathews, met Apn , • ' ^ | ^ L^^ of 1872. but faded to pass, time a Grand Jury was impanelled. J udge r

1 1 6 KLAMATH FORMED AND DISORGANIZED. erything used in the early days, and so the fees allowed for official services, that not only the State bol every county, also, run badly into debt during the Theamount of tangible taxable ,.,„,„ , maU, and the rateof tax at first imposed entirely inadequate ,,,,..,, ■ ■. am ufficii a\ to meet the current expenses of the county government. The population was of an active and i ni rgetic character, whose chief capital was enterprise and hope, and whose property consisted mainly of mining claims. The county had not been long enough settled to admit of the creation of valuable property to serve as a financial basis for a government. Services were performed and materials furnished at a high price, but there was not money enough in the treasury to meet a tithe of the warrants issued therefor. PLANS FUR DISORGANIZING. The matter remained "in abeyance, although being more or leas discussed, until the Legislature again met in 1874. ■ A petition of the citizens of Klamath County was then preBented, praying that the county be disorganized and annexed to Siskiyou, Trinity, Humboldt and Del Norte Counties. After considerable discussion, this resulted in the introduction of a bill by Assemblyman Tulley, for annexation to the Counties of Siskiyou and Humboldt. A remonstrance was presented by some of the citizens of Klamath County, who preferred to be united to Trinity or Del Norte, the county seats of the others being almost inaccessible to their locality in winter. The bill was referred to the Klamath delegation: SISKIYOU OPPOSES THE ANNEXATION. Humboldt County seemed to look with favor upon the scheme, while in Siskiyou there was a great diversity of opinion. Political feeling entered into the matter as well as local interests. It was claimed b}' the Republicans that it was a Democratic scheme to retain control of the county, as the section proposed to be added to Siskiyou had a large Democratic majority, which would atone to that party for the votes lost by the segregation of Modoc. Again the scheme was bitterly opposed in Yreka for local reasons. It was feared that the annexation of this section would make the western end of Siskiyou so strong, that the next move would be to take the county seat away from Yreka and locate it in Scott Valley. Although any intention of this kind was disclaimed by the people of that valley, still they were arrayed on one side of the question, and the people of Yreka and Shasta Valley on the other. Petitions for and against the proposed action were sent by both factions to the Legislature, and the discussionwas warmly maintained, both in the newspapers and on the street. It was argued with a great deal of force by the opponents of the measure, that- the proposed territory was separated from the county by the Salmon Mountains, to cross which, in winter, was almost, and sometimes entirely, impossible, save upon snowshoes, thus leaving it and its inhabitants completely isolated from the main part of the county a portion of the year; that the collection of taxes, the administration of county affairs and the conduct of legal business of that section, would be difficult, expensive and annoying; and. finally, that the county would have to assume a debt of §10,000 or sii>,000 which the value of the acquired assessable property was not sufficient to justify. DISINTEGRATION DECIDED BY SISKIYOU. However well founded these objections seemed to be, they did not prevent the passage of the bill, although it was so amended as to have it take effect only upon a favorable vote of the people of Siskiyou County. The Act of March 28, 1874, provided for an election to be held in Siskiyou County upon the question of receiving a portion of the territory of Klamath, and if the result was favorable to the measure, the act was to take effect, and not otherwise. The division was as follows: — Commencing at the point where the present boundary of Klamath and Del Norte crosses the Klamath River; thence running easterly in a direct line to where the Salmon River enters the Klamath River; thence in a southerly direction, following the ridge of the mountain that divides the waters of the Salmon and its tributaries from the waters of the Klamath and Trinity Rivers and their tributaries, to the northern boundary line of Trinity County. All the Klamath County north and east of this line was to become a portion of Siskiyou County, and all south and west a a portion of Humboldt. Causes in the courts were to . be transferred to the proper tribunals in the two counties, and two commissioners each were to be appointed by Humboldt and Siskiyou, to apportion the debt and cash on hand in proportion to the valuation of property in each section. County property was to be sold. As the day set for the election approached the discussion grew warmer, the question narrowed down to a trial of strength between the eastern and western portions of Siskiyou County. The vote was taken May 30, 1874. VOTE ON THE QUESTION OF ANNEXATION. FOR AGAINST Fort Jones 104 10 Oro Fino 63 1 Rough and Ready (Etna) 129 0 Callahan's 50 3 McAdam'sCreek 28 2 Buckeye Bar 22 16 Scott River 36 34 Cottonwood 16 13 Humbug 13 15 Bntteville 3 62 Table Rock 10 39 Bogus 1 8 Willow Creek 2 11 Yreka 52 278 Total 529 . Majority . .* 37 .491

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KLAMATH FORMED AND DISORGANIZED. 11' Di iafci ified citizen --.of Klamath County took legal steps to conti, , ,;|„, act, Aii injunction was issued by the County Judge, j T Cary, in June, restraining the BoaTdsof Supervise] ,l1(. t,|M,.(: interested counties from taking any action in the ,,,,,, i,., until the constitutionality of the a , .. i u: 11 iw r>lacinf the settlement which differed from the original bill by placin0 i. • *v. -. i,an,k of four Commissioners, tw o ti om andapportionmentinth^aiKlsoffou ^ each county, and providing for the sale or J ,ta, at auction. The act was passed^ «£, ^ The Supervisors of Siskiyou appointed John ^00 was bonded and bonds given him for theamount of the warrants. He subsequently moved to Virginia City, and was there in business as a banker. Like most men who have had dealings with mining stocks, he led a chequered life. More than once he was very wealthy and then lost all his money by unfortunate speculation or bad loans. The little bonds against the County of Klamath were laid away and forgotten. It is supposed that they were burned in 1865, when Mr. Stateler's place of business was destroyed. Some of our county officers were talking over the bonds which had never been payed and Mr. Stateler's name was mentioned as the owner of three. One of the gentlemen present had known him in years gone by, and wrote to him about the bonds. Mr. Stateler put the matter into the hands of Mr. DeHaven and ha. secured a warrant for S2.640, the yearly interest since 1857 at 10 per cent, being more than double the principal.

IIdel xoktk county organized. Del Norte County Organized. First Officers; Courts; Us Prosperity and Progress; Its Resources; Present Con111 ion; Future Prospects, etc. ORGANIZATION OF DEL NORTE. The Crescent City Herald of the 23d of February, 185G, advocated a division of Klamath County and the formation of a new county out of the northwestern part to be called Requa, including in the new county that portion lying north and west of a line drawn from Spanish Bar, on the Upper Klamath, to the mouth of Blue Creek, on the lower, thence to the ocean, including the Indian reservation. The paper alluded to attributes the great financial embarrassment of that county to the peculiar topographical nature of the same; certainly it was a heavy load of sin to impose upon the mountains, canons and ravines of Klamath. The Legislature of 1857 passed the Act organizing Del Norte County, and this bill located the seat of justice at Crescent City, and ordered an election held in May, 1857, for the election of county officers. The bill also provided that Del Norte pay one-third of the indebtedness of Klamath County, and that it was to issue bonds therefor, bearing ten per cent, per annum interest to Klamath County. Twenty per cent, of the taxes and other moneys received by the Treasurer of Del Norte was ordered to be set aside as a sinking fund for the redemption of the bonds; and the sum arising from this twenty per cent, was to be appropriated annually to their redemption. The Board of Supervisors of Del Norte County was authorized to lev}' a special tax, not to exceed twenty-five cents on each one hundred dollars of valuation of taxable property in the county; the fund arising from the special tax to be applied in liquidation of the debt of Klamath. KLAMATH COUNTY DEBTS ADJUSTED. The Board of Examiners appointed under the provisions of the Act of the Legislature of 1856-57 dividing Klamath County and creating the new county of Del Norte, consisted of Messrs. Lewis, Peveler, McDonald and Buel. They met at Orleans Bar on the third Monday in September, and proceeded to the discharge of their duties. They first went to work to ascertain the indebtedness of Klamath County prior to the 4th day of May, 1S57. This they found to be §5,534.85. But the more the Board investigated the further they were from agreeing upon any basis of settlement. The Board then endeavored to agree upon a fifth man to decide the point, but there they failed again, and adjourned without accomplishing anything more than the ascertaining the amount of debt to be divided, The whole debt outstanding of Klamath County on the 4th day of May, 1857, of which Del Norte had to pay its portion, was §26,843.54. The Board having failed to divide this, the .only thing now to be done under the provisions of the Division Act, was for the County Auditor of Del Norte to draw his warrant on the Treasurer of his county for one-third of this amount, being $8,948. The Legislature of 1858-59 appointed Commissioners to apportion the Funded Debt of Klamath County, and the interest thereon, between the counties of Klamath and Del Norte. This question had long been a bone of contention between the two counties, and several attempts to settle the matter had been made without success. The Commissioners, W. M. Buel, on the part of Klamath County, and Ben F. Don-is, on the part of Del Norte County, declined to act in the premises, alleging as a reason, that, in their opinion, a just and equitable settlement could not be made on the basis of the revenue of seven months of each county. In their report to the Board of Supervisors of Del Norte County, they stated, that upon an examination of the statements furnished them by the Auditors of the two counties showing the net revenues of both, they found that seven months taken as a basis would work greatly to the prejudice of Klamath County. They therefore proposed, after a due consideration of all the circumstances attending the embarrassed condition of affairs, to take the revenue of the first year, namely, from May 4, 1857, to May 4, 1858, as the basis of settlement. The apportionment on this proposition was as follows : Joint debt of Klamath and Del Norte Counties, as ascertained from the books of Funding Commission, §31,986.54; amount of revenue collected in both counties from May 4, 1857, to May 4, 1858, S14,667.69; apportionment of the debt according to the above basis — Klamath County §20,307.00; Del Norte County, SI 1,679.54; interest to be calculated to the 11th of June, 1859. Finally in 1S59, the Legislature passed an act amending the boundary between Klamath and Del Norte, and providing for the payment of the debt existing at the time of the organization of Del Norte. PROGRESS OF THE COUNTY. The people had much to congratulate themselves upon, and had good reason to expect a great increase in population, business, and wealth during the years to come. The division of Klamath County had been accomplished and the new county of Del Norte created; and above all, the determination shown by the judicial officers of the new county to punish and thereby prevent crime, augured a new era in the administration of county affairs, and an improvement in the moral tone of the community. The month of April, 1857, brought the heaviest immigration

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OURCES ' ■!■' DEL NT0RT1 TY. no ,,, Del Norte that, had i •' > '"'" n known du of fcime. Over fc50 pa ei anded at the poi cent City within three days. f)Unng the month of March, April and busimonthf of the year, there were landed a1 Cn [278 tons of freight and 1,717 pa And the ,li;i, be taken as a fair criterion of the average busin. - of the town in 1857. FIRST COUNTY OFFICERS. On Monday, May 4, 1857, the election for the first county lim,.rs for the new county of Del NorU took place, and the persons elected were: County Judge, F. E. Weston; County Clerk, Ben Reynolds; Sheriff, N. Tack: District Attorney, John P. Haynes; Treasurer, E. Y. Naylor; v , .,„. Solon Hall; Coroner, Jasper Houck ; Surveyor, U. C Lewis- Public Administrator. John T.Boyce. The Supervis((I, elected were : First district. Wn, Saville; Second, Ward Bradford; Third, P. H. Peveler. rjudev their administration, the new county was reasonably prosperous, and has so continued under succ ling admmisins Thepresent(1882)officeraareJa s Murphy Superior 1|1(W. W B. Mason, Assemblyman; Treasurer, William SaSuperintendent, of Schools, John Miller. RESOURCES OF DEL NORTE. n,r :B exCeedincrly well timbered with redwood, The county is exceeuiu„ij' sw,,ce hendoek, cedar and pine. la the eastern part of the the latter are covered with veiy J t'm-her. fUnrlU cultivated, dairying are given in this work. the cQUnfcy si,:*.-;:;-:';1: market at present does not warrant the many- + f ornMe land in the eastern portion of t^^^'T^SS^^ Man Creek> the county in the vicinity of HapiJ * & and is mostly farmed to vegetables, which find re y the mines in the vicinity. ^ suryeyed ^ The extent of farming land in he co y ^ ^^ amount to about 15,000 acres: thus tato»o land in the county, would only m A and ailing ,f the world The company employ from aedlastyci I cases, valued at S l:; 500 Ther jaw-mills in the county. Tw Wall & Co., is the largest, bein upperstorj being upied by tl aw-mUl, the lowei the, ■ box factor: on the coasl The mill bi capacity 0f 50,000 feet of lumber, per day. H has an iron brack railroad one mile long from the mill to the end oi the wharf. , .1 Wenger & Co.'s mill is located at the lower end of LakeEarl The logs are rafted down on the lake to the mill; on arriving they are hauled up by steam, converted into lumber, and thei , b) tramway, to the wharf, and from there to vessels This mill has a capacity Of 32.000 feet per day. There are mil. and miles of redwood forests in the county, ,0 thickly w led that onecan scarcely see adozen yards, that the lumberman has never entered, "and" says the Record, ' we are inclined to believe that this generation will have pa I away Ion- before there will be a scarcity of tins timber. Although the saw-millsin this county hav, 1 n running man3 years and have cut a vast amount of this species of lumber, still all of their lumbering has been done on the low lands within two or three milesoftheocean. never having gone back to the hiUs, where the finest growth of timber can be found. MINES AND MINING IN DEL NORTE. The production of gold for the county annually is about $250,000 from placer mines in all parts of the county Copper mines are also valuable. One owned by M. F. Je* ett of San Francisco is considered a very rich mine; extensive telopments are now being made. Copper ore was first disovered in I860, in the northwestern part of the county. Hon. James E. Murphy has a number of miners employed m developing his copper mine, which is now, beyond doubt, one of from thirty to forty per cent, pure copper The ore is easd melted in a blacksmith's forge, and requires no thing at all r fluxing- There are croppings of copper ore all over Mmf:alpltDwhichare easily traced forever a mile in length fa more easy and accessible way were opened, there might | I Z 10,000 to 15,000 tons of copper ore exported annually : ^iro^mtes of Del Norte County are situated in the t of the copper mines. The first shipment being mad* vicinity ot tne coppci ^ lono Z th« Tyson Smelting Company, of Baltnnore, Hd„ m 1869,

120 THE GREATEST NEED OF DEL XORTE. which has control of the chrome business in the United States. There are extensive deposit* of chrome in this county. Deposits of iron ore. of various grades and classes, are found in different parte of the county, the bulk of which is in the vicinity of the copper and chrome mines. These iron ores have been tested by scientific men, who pronounce them of a very high grade. Coal wasdiacovered several years ago, a few miles north from Crescent City. GREATEST NEED OF DEL NORTE. What Del Norte County most needs is harbor improvements at Crescent City. That will bring in people with capital who will improve her many water powers, saw up her immense forests of redwood into lumber, and unlock the great vaults in which her vast minerals are now sleeping. The now sparselysettled country will then teem with many industries which, at present, are scarcely thought of; then her gold, iron, chrome, fish, lumber and butter will be sent by her own ships to all parts of the world. The harbor is at Crescent City, which is located on a small bay in latitude 41° 44', longitude 120° 10', which is 280 miles north of San Francisco by water. The harbor is an open roadstead, with no bar to cross, and affords tolerable good shelter for vessels during the summer months, when the wind generally blows from the northwest, but is open and unprotected against the southerly gales which prevail during the winter months on this coast, and, at times cause a heavy sea to set in from the southwest, dangerous to vessels in the harbor. There is considerable of a bay here, with several large rocks, which are from one-fourth to one-half mile from the shore. Crescent City Described. When the town was located it was named Crescent City, because the bay on which it is situated is a semicircle. In February, 1S53, the land was surveyed by T. P. Robinson and divided up into town lots. M. Rosborough purchased a land warrant in J. F. Wendell's name, for the 320 acres of land on which Crescent City now stands. The grant which Wendell had purchased from the State was, however, afterwards declared to be void, the United States Government claimed the right to the land, and those who had invested in town lots were in danger of losing both their lots and money. An arrangement was finally effected by which the Common Council of Crescent City purchased the land from the United States, at S2.50 per acre. The Council then issued certificates of title to all those who had bought town lots from Wendell, and to those who were originally interested in the location of the town. FIRST BUSINESS IN CRESCENT CITY. The first mercantile firms who opened business at Crescent City were S. H. Grubler, Gilbert & Farrington, Hamilton & Co., and a short time afterward Gilkey & Co. R. F. Knox & Co., of San Francisco, sent F. E. Weston to represent and take charge of their interests. They bought and shipped in his charge on the Pomona, a small saw-mill, which he immediately erected near what is now the coiner of C and Third Streets. That mill made the lumber of which the first houses in Crescent City were constructed. A year or two later they built a larger saw-mill near the corner of G and Seventh Streets, and in 1856, they added a grist-mill. The first sack of flour ever ground in this county, was turned out of the Crescent City Mills in October, 1856. In 1857, Mr. Weston left and S. G. Kingsland took his place in charge of the property and business. In I860, these mills were burned down, with all the surrounding improvements with the exception of the house now occupied by Judge Hamilton, and a large amount of lumber and grain was consumed at the same time. The first vessel built at Crescent City was, in 1854, the Rosalie, commanded byE. A. Babcock. She was built of spruce and hemlock. From March 16, to October 22, 1854, the number of arrivals, according to the Custom House reports, were, steamers, 39; sailing vessels, 9; total, 48. Amount of freight carried by steamers, 3,385 tons; by sailing vessels, 540; total, 3,925; or, in round mumbers, 4,000 tons of merchandise. , During the same period the number of passengers carried from San Francisco to Crescent City, according to the Purser's reports, was 2,286. Thus it will be seen that the travel to this part of the State was large, and that its many natural advantages were at that time receiving considerable attention, and the place for a few years had a rapid growth. The city has two churches, Methodist and Catholic, where the usual services are conducted. Crescent City Lodge, No. 398, I. O. G. T., meets every Saturday evening. Del Norte Lodge, No. 183, A. O. U. W., meets every Tuesday evening. Klamath Lodge, No. 41, I. O. O. F., meets every Thursday evening. Crescent Lodge, No. 45, F. and A. M., meets on the Monday evening of, or next preceding the full of the moon. The Masons have a fine hall, the largest building in town, and the Order is in a prosperous condition. The schools of Crescent City are among the best in the State, and at the Centennial Exhibition in 1876, Crescent City received credit for the best exhibit of work done in the schools of California. From the report of the public schools of Crescent City for the month ending December 22, 1880, by H. H.

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RANCH OF 7SEr^^^iraiirFROM .HUMBOLDT

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EARLY MINING TIME? IX BAPPY CAMP. 121 Heath Principal, it appear that the whole number of chil(i|(.M enrolled in the ehool H l-,,; ,l"'"" teachers arc enrol The number of children in the county in 1880 wac r77 : the amount of money appropriated bj the State 19.64 On the 10th of June, L854, that necoesity of communities, a local newspaper, was established, with I; l» the present limits of Del Norte. In the spring of U.1 ,. party consisting of Captain Gwin, B. Tomtas B*-£ WilLn, Capt. Cha, McDennot, Chares D. Moo. ^ J. Roach, Charles Wilson, Charles Southard W.Taggari, W a W T Stevens, William Ruraley, W. A. J. ,,,k ^ongall. William ^^"J^ stMted from *^^£"*£, I eolor of the Bi earning on en y b. - ^ fl to ^ gold they were seehmg and e treaohel.0us Indians. Notguard against the prowhng and *"*"° th,.ee withstanding all the preeanUons taW n ^ I 7^ young men of the party were , UM by h Ind ^ an attack was made on an Ind.an village, a property and mules while the others scaW a- ^ nnning. Soon the original party was incase ^7 ^ tions. The name of this place was said to anhaving a at a gathering in ; Happy Camp." drinks" Ml'. A [ate number of tl I therein L852, ; I inhabitant," and here make some cxtrac '-1 character of those early mine] "During the fii had one , and one only.witr. Thiswasinthe early partof April Frai s> came up the river from Trinidad bound with < I for Yreka. The weather had been check the numerous streams to I more or less swollen the facilities for. fling poor, rendered hu pro and tedious. How long he had been on the road I do not know, aor does it matter. He put up at the ' Pelican House,' audit B00n spread to every i k and corner of the camp that the long_l00fced-for express had arrived. We had not a a newspaper since- the previous November, in Treka, and ol course we were all anxious to hear from the 'States. We made a general grand rush for the express office, the ' Pelican House,' ami procured some of the latest dates. One would Uv the St. Louis Republican, another the New fork Herald, tbirdmantheTnt^andstillanothertheNewOrleaus^ etc We would read one through and then exchange with our neighbors. Those who happened to be so fortunate, received letters from anxious parents, brothers and sisters in the far distant East. Those letters and papers cost us S2.50 each; but notwithstanding the high prices, papers were eagerly sought for and their contents devoured with the avidity of a hungry wolf after a sheep's carcass. EARLY MINING. •Winter passed, and spring opened fine and pleasant. The most of us went to work in the canon, some five miles below, leaving Happy Camp nearly deserted. Each measor company of two to four partners had a tent, with frying-pan camp kettle, fm eup. etc., picks, shovels, pan, and rocker We strung along the river, up and down the canon, on both sules of he stream, at no great distance from each other-perhaps half a mile between the most distant camps. There was a canoe-a kind of dugout-at the upper end of the canon for the accommodation of those who workedon the left bank of the river. The water was high in the river, caused by the melting of the snow in the mountains, running with a strong and rapid current, with many sucks, eddies, and whirlpools on either side, render to. the crossing with a canoe, especially with inexperienced a;d green hands, extremely difficult-in fact, dangerous. But that insatiable appetite for gold, sordid gold, causes mankind to l0se si*ht of danger, however palpable the same may be.

122 PRESENT CONDITION OF THE COUNTY. "Notwithstanding the high stage of the>ater in the river, we did well. Two men with one rocker made on an average about half an ounc lay each, and not work very hard at that But those good old days are passed and gone, never more to ■■< i mi. Happy Camp was our base of supplies. We had cabin there, with Bome blank. -ts and cooking utensils, for be it known that we did not move all our plunder to our tempor. ary camp in the canon. We, at least some of us, generally wont to Happy Camp on Saturday evening, and the following Sunday returned with sufficient supplies to do us through the week. " There were atJEIappy Camp about half a dozen fixtures who remained there all the while. Madam Cochrane (known to the old Crescentonians) and her man were running the 'Pelican House.' She kept some 'chain lightning ' (known on Front Street as 'benzine'). The ' Pelican House' was situated immediately on the bank of Indian Creek. ",Then there was Maltese Green, with a shirt-tail load of goods and a keg of 'knock-'em-stift' — perhaps of his own manufacture. He was also familiar with the route to Indian Creek's waters' edge. During Sunday the boys amused themselves in various ways, such as shooting at a target, a social game of euchre, and sometimes a scrub horse race. I never in all my life knew a happier and more contented people. Everything was merriment and fun, and such a thing as a row was totally unknown amongst them." The town is built on both sides of Indian Creek, near its junction with the Klamath River, and surrounded by mountains, the only means of reaching the place being by mountain trails. The country around it is rich in gold; mining being its support. It has quite a thriving trade, there being four stores, three kept by white men and one by Chinese. It is ninety miles west of Crescent City. KLAMATH CITY. A short time after the settlement of Happy Camp, a settlement was made at the mouth of the Klamath River, a stream emptying into the ocean some twenty miles south of Crescent City. The Klamath was visited, in 1850, by a schooner on a voyage of exploration, which anchored off the mouth of the river and sent a small boat with a crew of fifteen or twenty to make an attempt to cross the bar. The bar being rough at the' time, the boat was swamped, and all the crew were drowned with the exception of one man, who was rescued by the Indians. Afterwards, in the year 1851, another schooner arrived and a settlement was formed. It was named Klamath City, and it had a rapid growth. It was supposed that Klamath River was rich in gold, and the new town soon became the headquarters of explorers, prospectors and others. The frames of houses, ready to be put together on arrival, were shipped by sail vessels from San Francisco, and it is said that one iron house was imported and erected in the town. For what purpose it was intended or used is not known. As the Indians were living there in great numbers, it is supposed that the owner intended to guard against their attacks by erecting a castle which would be proof against shot and fire. Klamath City had a rapid growth, and soon became a place of considerable importance. But its growth was not more rapid than its decline, and it had but a brief existence. Prospectors at the mouth of the river did not meet with the success they had anticipated, and they soon began to seek other mining localities. In 1852, the iron house was re-shipped to San Francisco, and a short time afterwards, Klamath City belonged to the list of deserted mining towns. DEL NORTE VILLAGE. Del Norte, sometimes called "Smith River Corners," is located sixteen miles northeast of Crescent City. It contains about 200 inhabitants. This place is right in the midst of the dairy country, and is more fully described elsewhere. CONDITION OF THE COUNTY. The present condition of Del Norte may be partially gathered from the Assessment Roll for 1880. Value of land, §285,667; number of acres, 61,139; value of improvements on land, §13,512; town lots and blocks 830,010; improvements on lots and blocks, §99,875 ; deduction on mortgages, §55,807; value of personal property, §308,240; money §22,048; improvements on all property assessed to other than the owner of the land, §1,745 ; amount of deductions, §27,152; total value of all property, §899,738; value after all deductions, §S04,144. Value of script, §6,893 ; money, §27,373 ; fourteen bee-hives, §39; 1,070 gallons liquor, §3,326; 525 gallons, §2,737; beef cattle, §75; 770 stock cattle, §7,961; colts, §2,040; 2,311 cows §44,646; 126 utensils, §1,147; 137 goats, §402; 912 hogs, §2,258; 475 horses, §21,788; 135 mules, §4,875; 77 oxen, §2,570; 334 poultry, §808; 1,404 sheep, §2,675; total value §128,827. The levy of taxes for State' purposes for the year 1880, was sixty -four cents on each and every §100 of taxable property. Add to the State tax a levy for county purposes of §1.86, and we have a total taxation of §2.50 on each and every §100 of taxable property. The principal exports are butter and lumber, of which 10,000,000 feet of lumber was shipped to San Francisco in 1880, and 322,000 pounds of butter. About §200,000 in gold-dust is also exported annually from the mines in the county. The imports are small, probably 3,000 tons" of general merchandise per year. The population of Del Norte in 1860, was 1,993; in 1870, 2,022; in 1880, 2,499, showing an increase in ten years of 628. The voting population is about 700.

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GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES

124 GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF TIUMBOLDT. TABLIi BLUFF. The following description was furnished us by Jackson Sawyer, Esq.: — The Table Bluff, as its name would indicate, is an elevated portion of land some one and a half miles wide and seven in length, Tt rises in quite a steep bluff from the ocean beach, and with varied elevations and depressions, extending in a southeasterly direction, reaches the redwoods, where it terminates at an elevation of 500 or GOO feet. The surface of Table Bluff, is very much broken by gulches running in various directions, containing an abundance of the best of water and groves of alder trees, with some spruce and fir. The surface of the land as first seen by white men, was covered in some places with grass and hazel brush, but mostly with a dense growth of fern and myrtle brush. The soil is black and of a light loamy nature, and on the level from two to three feet deep. LAKES AND LAGOONS. About nine miles above the town of Trinidad are several lakes — three in number — which are deep, have well defined shores, are not intruded upon by marshes, abound with all the fish native to this section, and would afford magnificent and safe yachting. The largest of these, known as Big Lagoon, is six miles long and four miles wide, is completely inclosed from the ocean, and is fed by Maple Creek. On the south side it is bounded by rolling hills, and on the north by a very high hill, commanding a full, grand ocean prospect from north to south The lake is three-cornered, narrowing to a point where the creek discharges. Warren Creek empties into this lagoon. Blue Lake is another of the most beautiful sheets of water in the county. It is on the east side of Mad River. A hotel is here kept as a pleasure resort by Clement Char tin. It has a charming situation upon the banks of the beautiful lake from which it takes its name. It is the most enchanting rural resort in Humboldt County. THE RIVER SYSTEM. The river system of the county consists of a system of parallel streams running northwest through the county into the Pacific. Going up these rivers, they pass transversely through the redwoods towards the southeast. The river channels run through canons in places so narrow as to afford onlypassage way for the winter floods, but widen at intervals, leaving strips of bottom-land from one-quarter of a mile to a mile in width between the edge of the channels and the mountains. In seme places the gorges of the streams are absolutely frightful to contemplate. The large streams have a general course towards the northwest. The Klamath, Mad, Mattole and Eel Rivers have their head-waters outside of the county lines. None of these rivers will ever be of much service for navigation, for the reason they all have a steep grade; their'cailons are free from rocks, and the channels nearly, in every instance, pass over strips of sand, and are hedged in by walls of redwood timber. The current, during the season of floods, is terrific. The canons are then but conduits for a seething flood, bearing on its surface the debris of the forest's huge redwood trees, undermined along the banks and swept along by the flood ; old logs, dislodged from the drifts, where they had lain for years, are carried out into the ocean. These rivers rise very suddenly with the heavy rains in winter. We will give brief descriptions of these rivers, beginning at the north end of the county. THE GREAT KLAMATH RIVER. The great Klamath River rises in the lake of the same name, and in its windings through the mountains takes a general westerly course until it pours into the ocean near Crescent City the combined waters of the Klamath, Shasta, Scott, Salmon, and Trinity Rivers, with their hundreds of tributaries. The volume of water that goes surging through its rocky gorges and precipitous canons in the winter season is tremendous, and the slowly melting snows on the mountain peaks keep the stream a rushing torrent till late in the summer. The name "Klamath" is of Indian origin, and was first applied to the stream near its source by the early trappers, who asked the natives there what they called the stream, and were answered " Klamat," or " Tlamat." It in spelled by Fremont " Tlamath." The tribes that lived along the stream each had its name for 6he great river, but the name adopted by the whites soon became known from the mouth to the source, and was also applied to the lakes from which it springs, though for these the Klamath tribe that inhabited their borders had different and distinct appellations. This stream, as well as its first important tributary, the Shasta, was known to the trappers. The Klamath drains a large extent of territory, and carries a volume of water truly wonderful. Between its precipitous banks the waters, augmented by the winter's storms, rush and tumble and foam to the sea, falling ten feet to the mile, and furnishing water-power enough to turn every factory wheel in the world. Through this narrow outlet flows all the water that falls in Upper California, enough, could it be pent up, to make a lake of vast volume and extent. When a heavy rain continues for several days without abating, the streams are unable to carry the water that runs so rapidly down the mountains into the valleys and canons. The creeks and rivers overflow their banks, and mountain torrents rush through gulch and canon to collect and form a lake in every valley towards which they run. The same is true when a warm rain brings down the melted snow from the mountains faster than the river can carry it away. These floods now do considerable damage to the crops and farms in the valleys and to the mining claims along the river.

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GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF BTJMBOLDT. 125 FIRST TRIE DOWN THE KI.am Two parties who had been living at Scotl Bar, on the Klamath, intending to visit theFrazer ftivei i concluded to attempt what had never before beer done —the de © nt Klamath Hi ver. They accordingly built a boat at embarked with their traps and made entire vo nj\ the Klamath to its mouth. The distance is about 17". miles. They had to make two portages, and shouldhave madi another, but, attempting to come over the rapids, they capsized, and all their plunder was lost, though they sustained no personal inju The Klamath enters at the northea item coi n< r of the county and takes a southwestern course into Bumboldt C tty,for a distance of about forty miles, where the Trinity and s< other streams How into it; thence taking a northwestern course for a distance of forty-live miles. The latter twenty-five miles are within the boundaries of Del Norte County. The Klamath River, near to the mouth, is the second largest river in the State. It was declared navigable by the State Legislature for a distance of sixty miles, to I >rleans Bar. It has a course of some eighty or ninety miles in all in Humboldt County. The Klamath is now navigable thirty five miles from the entrance, and Hows water enough for navigation at all seasons of the year, and, with some obstructions removed from the bed of the stream, would be navigable for sixty or eighty miles. TRINITY RIVER. The principal tributary of the Klamath is the Trinity, which flows more than fifty miles in the county, and joins the Klamath near the middle of the northern boundary of Hoopa Reservation. It received its name from Major P. B. Heading wlu. trapped on its head-waters in 1845, and named it Trinity because he supposed it to empty into Trinidad Bay, discovered by the early Spanish explorers, an error which misled thousands of gold seekers in 1849 and 1850, who sought to reach its famous mines by entering the bay in vessels and passing up the stream from its mouth, as related in preceding chapter. Grouse Creek is one of the chief branches of the Trinity in this county, being some, thirty miles long and running about due east Another branch a little further north is Madden Creek. In this section are placer mines along the Trinity and branches. REDWOOD CREEK. Tho stream called Redwood Creek, which from its length could well he styled a river, has a course of more than LOO maesin tire county, and empties into the ocean twenty-five miles south of the mouth of the Klamath. On Redwood Creek there are from 3.000 to 5,000 acres of bottom-land good as any in the country. It was in early >mes „,d with a dense growth of Cottonwood, alder and salmon brush, „„.! some spruce. There has heen much headway made in clearing np the dense jungles which cover the ground, winch give : tluable ra- une od idad Th( com u aim i I it has I or more, with numei MAD \:v Mm. i of "V.i LOO mill - in the county. 1' in Trinity < tountj tl All it. tributarii Hot* in from the north -i.i. •..->- it flow on the K>uth clo • to a sharp range of hills called, for part of the - [aqua Bluffs." into theoo an just above Humboldt i It is one of thi mo I imp irtanl str am in bl n - di co> i i . and naming he already been related. The next stream in ordei going south ia Jacob] Creek, and bo named from a pioneer settli i , who located on it - banV FreshwaterCn the bay near Eureka. Both thea stream are twelve or fifteen miles in length. elk river. Elk River has its origin in the mountains from numerous springs, forming two distinct streams at its source, divided by a mountain ridge, and forming a junction about four miles from its mouth. These tributaries are commonly known as the North and South Fork of Elk River. The difference in the volume of water Mowing in these Eeedersis hardly distinguishable; the North Fork, however, is several miles the Ion I ° In winter, when the rains swell this stream into a deep, swift body of water.it serves as a medium for conveying the logs from this section to the mills on the bay. But in summer the stream becomes shrunken to a mere brook, with its crystal waters rippling over gravelly beds from one pool to another. Its cool, clear waters are the home of the speckled and mountain trout, and of the ocean salmon and other fish in winter and spring. Salmon Creek is of about the same characteristics as Elk River. It is about midway between Elk River and Eel River. EEL RIVER. Eel River has its source in the center of Mendocino County, and along the line of Lake, Colusa and Tehama Counties, which bound Mendocino on the east. This grand, wild and everflowing stream waters but little arable or bottom-laud in that county in proportion to the immense area it drains. Hundred* of miles of its tributaries flow through rocky gorges or leave the base of steep, open hill-sides of rich grazing-land, with miles upon miles of their length without enough valley for the foundation of a cartway. Having its source in the summit of the Coast Range, with the snows of Sanhedrim, Mount Hood, Hull Mountain, Yola Bola, and the Trinity range to feed it, its waters are cold, clear and rapid, flowing freely all summer. It has a course of more than 125 miles in the county, and, with its tributaries, Van Dusen, Larabee, South Fork and

120 GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF HUMBOLDT. Yager, each about 100 rnil«_-> in length, constitute an important >.."■ ic I i e of the coun 1 i I river, but its general course is northward, bearing somewhat to the west, and emptying into Paci few miles south of Humboldt Bay. It is most prolific in crool and rapid The bed of the river is obstructed by i'"l , often of the most massive kind, so that it cannot be followed down by animals, and only forded at rare intervals. Eel River has been known to rise in its banks from twenty to thirty feet within a few hours. The Indian name of the river was " Wee-ot-lolla" (many eels). A town was laid out by'Sam Branuan, in I860, on this river and named Trinity City. EEL RIVER ENTRANCE. The shipping point is on Salt River, which empties into Eel about one mile from its mouth. It would be impossible to exaggerate or overestimate the beauty, fertility and importance of the region round about Eel River. J. G. Kenyon, the original owner of the land upon which the shipping point known as Port Kenyon is situated, struggled long and bravely to establish the fact of the navigability of the bar. He finally enlisted T. P. H. Whitelaw of San Francisco in the matter, and the result was a staunch and well-constructed steamer of excellent sea-going qualities, the Thos. A. Whitela/U), which for a time made regular trips. The citizens of Ferndale and vicinity lately took active steps toward having the entrance of Eel River improved, in order to render the same navigable for steamers at all times. At their late meeting a committee was appointed to collect statistics and information, which report we clip from the Enterprise : — To the Honorable, the Senate and House of Representatives in Congress assembled — We, the undersigned, and residents of Eel River Valley, County of Humboldt. State of California, would most respectfully represent, That, Eel River and its tributaries drain a large section of country, rich in natural resources, consisting of the finest agricultural, grazing and timber lands; That, the country has been thickly settled by a hard- working class of people who are using their best endeavors to develop these resources; That, for years vessels have entered Eel River Harbor, and at times steamers have run between said river and San Francisco regularly; That, at the present time a steamer, built by the people and costing $60,000, is plying between said ports; That, at this time the entrance to our harbor is dangerous and unsafe, causing an interruption of communication with San Francisco. "We would, therefore, most respectfully ask that the sum of 3100,000 be appropriated for the purpose of making our harbor permanently safe for vessels to enter at all times. bear river. This river rises at the foot of Mount Pierce and has a due west course emptying into the ocean near Cape Mendocino There is not much bottom-land on this river. It lays in patches of from five to twenty acres, and at some places the hills push down to the river's edge. There are about a dozen ranches located on the river in a distance of about six miles. The hill-sides, as usual on the north side of the river, presenting a south face to the sun, are open and covered with grasson the south side of the river, presenting a north face, covered with timber. Pepperwood, maple and spruce are scattered along the river. WONDERFUL GAS SPRING. At a point on the ridge about six miles up from the county road, a trail makes down one of the side ridges towards Bear River. About half way down this ridge, turning sharp to the left and descending to the gulch below, a distance of half a mile is one of the wonders of California. It is the gas spring, jet or whatever you may call it, of Bear River. There are several, but this is the principal one. It is one mass of blue flame, covering over ten feet square of ground. It is a strange sight to see the blue flame thus burning in so large a body, upon the bare ground, particularly when we consider the fact that it had burned continuously some six or seven years. The spectator cannot help gazing and wondering, and speculating in his mind as to the source of this fiery fount. The fact remains, however, that a large amount of coal oil gas escapes from these gulches, and there are abundant evidences of the presence of coal oil, which must have been expressed from some vast bed of coal lying back near the South Fork. MATTOLE RIVER. In 1854, John Hill, in a trip to the south part of the county, found a river that had been heretofore unknown. It was called by the Indians " Mattole," which signifies clear water. The Indians had apparently never seen a white man at that time. He reported the valley of the river in glowing terms, as having open prairie ready for settlers, the table-land easy to clear. Near the river cottonwood was the principal growth, but as you recede spruce, pine and redwood predominate. The prairie patches were then covered with the finest specimens of clover which grew to an almost unheard of height. The timbered lands were covered with wild oats and several varieties of grass. The Mattole rises in Mendocino and seventy-five miles of its one hundred lies in this county. LAND-OFFICE AND PUBLIC LANDS. As early as 1856 the Legislature passed a resolution to establish an additional land district in the northern part of the State, and that a land-office be established in Humboldt County.

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PUBLIC LANDS OF HUMBOLDT COrXTY. 127 By Act of Congress a land-office was opened in Iv'.s. and Win. McDanielsand Major Book were Regi ter an Tin; officers thought it their duty under bructions to open the office at " Humboldt Point," until they Bhould i orders from tin; department at Washington to removi Eureka, in accordance with a petition pn No authority having arrived for such removal, and the winter season approaching, the officers found it necessary to find new quarters. At Humboldt Point they had no other conx eni either for themselves or persons wishing t>> do business before them, than found in any ordinary private family. They -elected Bucksport, and moved there October, 1858, as the ueari I point to the imaginary town of "Humboldt Point,'* at which place they were instructed to open the office. Humboldt City laded away, like many another western city, and the office found its way to Eureka, though we believe no official transfer was ever made. Since the office has been established here there have been seven Registers and three Receivers, the present incumbent, Mr. Cooper, having been in the office for fourteen years, and C. P. Roberts, the Register, for ten years. A new building, constructed at the northeast corner of Fourth and F Streets, will be used as the United States Land Office. The lot Ls owned by Solomon Cooper, Receiver of the Land ( office. FIRST ENTRY IN LAND OFFICE. The first entry in the Land Office was as follows: "No. 1, October 14, Seth Kinsman of Humboldt County, the south half of the NW. quarter, of Section 36, Township No. 4 N., of Range No. 2 W.; 80 acres." During the twenty-four years of its existence there have been G.5G2 entries made in Humboldt Land Office,as follows:— 1 X"}8 Homestead Applications » Pre-emption Declaratory Statements filed 4,0o.J Mining Applications " Total entries 6'562 For the same time 4,576 cash entries-that is, final proofshave been made, 521 being homesteads, the balance, pre-emptions and mining claims. Allowing 160 acres to each claim, the total entries for the twenty-four years would amount to 749,920 acres for the district. At the average price of ».-5 per acre this would give the sum of §935.400. But the value is probably much more than this, because a portion of the land described is held at S2.50 per acre. The business of the office for the year ending December 31st, has been as follows:- ^ oft fJQf) 24S Pre-emption Declaratory Statements Wj^ 102 Homestead Entries 'gl7 9 Mining Applications - " x VJ 99 Final Homestead Certificates Issued • v i nc TOOI, 9S S44 for which the The number of acres disposed of was 28,0**, Government received §30,164.30. invi This district includes Humboldt and Del Norte Counties, and those portioi >u that lie west of range ttounl Diablo Meridian Register C. P. Boberts approxn.-nt land in his district in the follow ing proportions: — Sumbol acres) 1,250, Di i Norte 1,250,000 Trinity 1,750,000 Siskiyou 750,000 Total (acres) 5,000,000 In regard to the peculiarities of the land, it contain- mineral of untold wealth, while there is no limit to the timber an a only difficulty being inability to gel it to market The mounl ain grazing country is claimed to be boo cold to winter stock without preparing food Eoi winter use. There is very little valley land susceptible of cultivation that is not taken up. A FIELD FOB EMIGRATION. As a field for emigration Mr. Roberts does not give a very glowing account as reported in the San Francisco papers. Ee i \ - : " We have little to offer as an inducement for emigration in the way of Government lands, for many reasons. First, the cost of getting here by steamer is ten dollars; second, the lack of roads to enable a person to get around over the country. If the land were surveyed and we had a railroad, there is room for thousands of families who could make a good living. As it is, many who went into the hills years ago with the intention of making themselves homes, found upon trial that they were not living in the proper sense. They were only staying away from churches, schools and society, all of which privileges and advantages they could have, and yet make a good living, by coming nearer the towns and settlements. As a natural consequence they have mostly sold out to some stock-raiser and left the hills. There is not one family in the hills now where ten could be found eight or ten years ago. Business of aLl kind3 has been good for the past year— work for all, and every one well paid. The three leading industries of the country, lumber, wool and dairying, are in a flourishing condition; never better. The farmers who depend upon the raising of grain and potatoes have not done so well, owing to short crops caused by blight, as well as too heavy freight charges. Taken as a whole, our county is in a prosperous condition, and will compare favorably with any in the State, all things considered." The Times remarks on the above as follows: "The timber land is of little value for farming, for the reason that the stumps and roots never decay and cannot be removed. There is a good deal of land now used for cattle and sheep ranges that would make good agricultural land, but the owners do not care to dispose of these ranges. There are small patches here and there where fine farms can be made at reasonable expense. It is safe to say that the resources of the county are almost

128 THE SCENERY, AND PLEASURE RESORTS. v.li(i|| , r - Chiefly in forest, mining, ,..i grazing land.s,>ny one of which is sufficient in p^fc 0f v;,i„, and extenl to insure a prosperous growth. I INERV AND RESORTS. [„ peaking of the natural endowments of the county, the Humboldt Stcmdwd jays:— Vo Semite and other mountain gorges having surpassing romantic attractions have become public resorts; some of our l ;, ,. m ,|„ interior of the State have also become the rendez,,„, for the ammortouriste Others have been beautified and Petained as private homes or country residences. Thus far the seeming isolation of Hun, bul.lt County has prevented the improvement of any of her natural beauties. And yet we have ,,„.,,, ,,,,,. gems of romantic grandeur, claiming both mountain hill and glen, river, lake and ocean, beach and bluff". The almost, certainty of the advent of the railroad through our county in the near future, brings these points of attraction more forcibly to. mind, for we have some unsurpassed locations, particularly on "the coast north of Trinidad. About nine miles above the town named are several lakes— three in number—which are deep, have well-defined shores, are not intruded upon by marshes, abound with all the fish native to that section, and would afford magnificent and safe yachting. THE BLUE LAKES. Blue Lake, near Areata, is one of the most important resorts in the county. A hotel is kept here by Clement Chartin The house is roomy and cheerful, and has been built with an especial regard to the comfort of pleasure seekers. The neighborhood is one of the most romantic and inviting spots on the North Pacific Coast. Parties and families desiring to spend a short time in the country will find a well-provided table, with every comfort and convenience desired and every attention shown. Complete accommodations for wayfarers and travelers. The Blue Lake Hotel is situated on the north side of Mad River, on the Mad River road, about eight miles from Areata. Stage connects with the Areata boat daily, Sundays excepted. This is the only direct route to Green Point, Willow Creek, Hoopa Valley, New River, Orleans Bar, Sawyer's Bar, Weaverville and the lumbering part of Mad River, and a trip out to Blue Lake will afford a fine view of the redwoods and other scenery. Our artist has given a sketch of this beautiful and romantic resort. RIO DELL SCENERY. For another view of the country we recommend a ride to Rio Dell, a charming country retreat, situated on Eel River, which otters unsurpassed attractions to the tourist and pleasure seeker. Here he will find a comfortably furnished and well-kept inn, where he can loll in the sunshine, eat fruit to his heart's content and the satisfaction of his inner man. If he wants a boat ride he can take one on the limpid waters of Eel River, which, for the space of a mile or more, seems to have given up its idea of wandering over the whole adjacent country. It forms a summer lake and makes a beautiful sheet of water. The hotel is kept by L. Painter, and is illustrated and fully described elsewhere. The visitor will enjoy himself and live on an abundance of fresh fruit, milk, and butter from the home, garden, and dairy. Stage runs regularly from Ferndale and Eureka during the summer season. vance's picnic grounds. An annual picnic, engineered and managed by John Vance, Esq., has been held for several years. This trips affords a delightful view of the redwood forests and other scenery. It is thus mentioned by a correspondent: "The company started from the city wharf on three barges, drawn by steamers Ada and Lillie Jones, having on board about 1,000 persons, and at the landing took the cars on Vance's railroad. During the run of about six miles many changes of climate and scenery were apparent. The beautiful little engine, a perfect model of the larger ones used on ordinary railroads, carried us along at times with a high rate of speed. Rushing suddenly from the level prairie shores of the bay, which are swept by northern winds, we plunge into a jungle of almost tropical richness, through which a road is cut, barely wide enough for the track, on either side of which is seen a dense growth of vegetation, interspersed with giant trees towering above the mass of verdure, silent monitors, who have come down to us perhaps from the antediluvian. Soon we enter upon a curving line of trestle-work and cross the rapid stream of Mad River on a covered bridge, then winding up the north bank of this wild and romantic river, through deep cuts and narrow vales, where cosy farm-houses loom out from sheltered nooks and warm valleys, clothed with yellow harvests, gardens and orchards, where the coast winds never penetrate. The picnic grounds are well arranged, and located just below the busy mill and village. Within the inclosure are abundant facilities for rest and comfort in the way of seats and tables, sunshine and shade, with an extensive view down into the river and up the mountain sides, also a commodious platform for dancing and promenading. The Eureka band and Kausen's orchestra accompanied the picnicers, and played during the trip to and fro, and also at the grounds. DESCRIPTION OF HUMBOLDT BAY. The Bureau of the United States Coast Survey, A. D. Bache Superintendent, published the following : " Sailing directions — this harbor may be easily recognized by a remarkable red bluff* facing the entrance, with a perpendicular front to the •The Red Bluff mentioned is generally called "Howard's Bluff," from the fact that it was embraced in the premises of Maj. E. H. Howard.

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JL==== FARM & RESIDENCE OF WILLIAM CAMPTON.RHONERVILLE.HUMBOLDT CO. CAL.

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HUMBOLDT BAY AND HARBOB DESCRIBED. hf:a of ninety-six feet, and by the head-land, known as Table Bluff, five miles bo the southward To en Howard's house(Maj. Iv If. Howard, still a re idi nl of Eqreka . a large white four-story house, to beat by compa -: well on with a point of trees on the highlands, two i Run it on this range until aero.--, the bar, when the breakers on either side of the channel will be a sufficient guide to the anchorage." Latitude of Humboldt entrance 40° 4(1' 0.1. Longitude West from Greenwich, L24° L2' 21". Variations of the Mmnetic Needle, 17° 04" East. Captain Ottinger, of the U. S Revenue Marine, reported (1850) eighteen feet at low water on tin; bar. Humboldt Bay divides, one portion running northeast from Humboldt Point about twenty miles, from one In eight railed wide, dotted over with beautiful islands. The bay is the shape of a pear with the stem towards the sea, with a depth of water sufficient for vessels to lay anywhere close up to the bluff shores safe from any and all gales that may blow. The anchorage grounds are equal to any port in the world Ships are not compelled to discharge freight at the "ship's tackles," one or two miles from land, but come directly to the wharves. The other portion of the bay runs from Humboldt Point southeast, with two channels. This bay is comparatively long and narrow. Its length is something over twenty miles, with a width ranging from less than a mile to eight miles. The area of the bay is from thirty -six to forty square miles, a portion of which is very shallow tide water. The exit to the sea is at the south end. The sand ridge between the bay and the ocean is covered with a stunted growth of trees, which breaks the force of the storm coming over the ocean. The depth of the bay about Eureka ranges from ten to thirty feet of water, but much of this bay is extremely shallow. However, in the vicinity of Eureka, the largest sea-going vessels will easily Moat when once in the h&y. WHO FIRST DISCOVERED HUMBOLDT BAY. In preparing the early history of Humboldt Bay, we corresponded with Stephen H. Meek, the veteran trapper and hunter. He came on a trapping expedition to California in 1832. He wintered on Tulare Lake in 1833. He followed trapping all over California. In 1S35 he trapped for the Hudson Bay Fur Company on Rogue River, Trinity, Scott, Pit, Yuba, Feather. Americanand other streams. In 1842 he wintered in Oregon. In 1845 he conducted the first large train of 4S0 wagons to Oregon. It is very evident that he knew if there were any trappers about Humboldt Bay at that time. He is still hunting and trapping the streams of Northern California, and we inqu.red of him if he knew anything about Humboldt Bay at that date, and received the following reply :— 'Etn-a. Siski. .January I 1882 POBUSHBB OF COOKTY Hi- .rds ofHumbol e*plora , ,„i within the bay itself, was by Mr. William a factor of th< Bay 1 'ompany, who •■■ the coast from \ . tempt the establishment of one or in about the year L830 or 1831 He i . under the impression that it was Drata - Baj under the bluff called Table Bluff; and I whal he oamed < llearwatei Baj , on account ol tli pui < >ii landing he found the Indiana sol station was established at that time, whereupon he Bailed farther .south and established a post at Drake's Bay, whii there yet, 1 believe. This same Mr i: a man as ever lived, at the beginning of the Mexican war, being still an employe of the Hudson May Company, took sides with the Americans in tho contest, contrary to the wishes of his employ era, for which action he was cashiered. This disgrace preyed upon his mind to such an extent that he committed suicide in his own house in San Francisco, and was buried in the garden of the old establishment, from whence his remains have been removed to a cemetery. "Yours truly, Stuphe.v H. Meek." DANGEROUS ENTRANCE TO BAY. The danger at Humboldt Bay is at the entrance. It cannot be denied that the condition of the bar and entrance present a very serious question to the shippers and to every resident of Eureka, and of the whole county. The North and South Sprits are, for a mile on each side of the entrance, subject to occasional irruptions by the ocean, which materially widen the space and cause shoal water. The channel, after crossing the bar, is but one-fourth of a mile in width for some distance. While the North and South Sprits remain in their present condition three tidal currents, one from the bay proper (north), one from Elk River (east), and the other from the south bay, meet at the entrance. Capt. H. H. Buhne, whose experience as a pilot in this harbor dates back to its earliest discovery, and who was the first to sound the entrance and enter the bay in a whale boat from the sea, does not speak very encouragingly of the possibility of building a breakwater. On the 18th of November, 1881, sixteen sailing vessels were lvin

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130 HUMBOLDT BAT AND H,VRBORMSCRIBED. KUVB1 '' ' ' The following record of the nu.nher of greeks on „,,n ,old7B»rw» prepared torn, by W.PDayton:1850 ft**l '■'>■ V'

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_^MBO]^T RAY AND HARBOR DESCRIBED. 131 the Pacific Coast, the amount to be 880,000. It i that fchia will also be expended in needed improvcrai The commerce of the buy during .1,., entire a fleet of Bailing vessels plying to San Francisco and i foreign ports in the Pacific. During a portion of thi steamers are constantly running between Eureka and s;l„ Francisco, and one steamer is kept busy during the n mainder of the year. The most noticeable feature in the can \ ing I rade from this place at the present time is the extensive business with foreign ports. The field for export from this place seems to have been gradually enlarging. Demand has sprung up in new places for lumber, to be supplied from this county and shipped from Eureka. The principal foreign trade has be Q for years with the Hawaiian Islands and Mexico. NUMBER OF VKSSKF.s ENTERING THE BAY. During the year terminating on the 30th of June, 1854, there were 183 arrivals of vessels in Humboldt Bay. For the next twenty years we could obtain no definite information. The following record of the number of vessels that have crossed Humboldt Bar was furnished us by \V. P. Daykin. It ■ covers a space of eight years, and gives some idea of the amount of business transacted : — 1874, May to December 514 1875, January to December 781 1876, " " " 1,106 1877, '« " " 832 1878, " " " 782 1879, " " " 7:17 1880, " " " 7GG 1881, " " " 31 746 6,264 LIVELY BUSINESS ON THE BAY. The following items, taken from the Times in regard to the shipping business of Humboldt Bay, show the amount of business there transacted, and speaks more emphatically than anything we can say with reference to the importance of this port and its growing business. "October 26, 1881, there were twenty-five vessels in port. The schooners Ida McKay, Lottie Carson, 11'. H. Stevens, and Fairy Queen were loaded and ready for sea. The schooner Jamie Thelin was discharging ballast at Baird's Wharf, and the Western Home and Ivanhoe were loading at the Occidental Mill. The schooners Emma and Louisa are loading at Hookton, and the schooners James Townsend and Bonanza at the Areata Wharf. At Carson's Mill, the schooners SparUvng Sea, John Hancock, A. P. Jordan, and Halcyon (new) were taking cargo. The Mary Buhne was discharging coal at Buhne's Wharf. The brig Josephime and schooners Sparrow and Mary Sevan were loading at Vance's Mill ; the schooners Mary E. Buss and Serena Thayer at Russ & Co's Mill, and the schooners Jessie Nickerson, Eva, and Isabel, and brig Hesperian, at Jones & Co's Mill on the Island. The barkentine C. L. Taylor and the jinj? them into port. " Cne tii-t iron aailiog Ba irrived No 19,1881 The Pa itlyfrom Victoria, British G whither she had gone from China with a . | of the vessel is 100,000 feel of lumb r in the holfl. This amount of lumber will be purchased by Captain Schutl and taken to Melbourne. The ballast consisted of gravel, and was used on thi itreets of thi ci "The British barkWoodviUi and British brig I rrived in the bay. Both vessels will carrj lumber to Sydii W'oodvUle has an order for 210,000 feet, and will can more to make a full cargo. The Restless will take a cargo of 260,000 feet or thereabouts." E, H. Howard's valuable statistics show the arrival, for 1881, of twenty-two vessels from foreign | i, and thirty cleared for foreign ports. The foreign ports cleared for were as follows; Honolulu, Mexico, Central America, Fiji Islands, Victoria, Tahiti. .Sidney, Valparaiso, Panama, and Australia. PORT OF ENTRY. As long ago as 1854, a joint resolution of our Legislature declared that WHEREAS, The manufacturing and commercial interests of Humboldt Bay are rapidly growing in importance, showing from official statistics as large an exportation of lumber as from any point on the coast; and whereas, the agricultural, mineral, and lumbering districts depending upon this port for their supplies, are being developed by a large and increasing population, who will require increase of importations of merchandise and whereas, to secure the benefits arising from improved facilities for manufacturing, other than domestic markets must be sought, in which to dispose of the proceeds of the one and supply the demand of the other; therefore, Resolved, that Congress be urged to create a new Collection District, with its port of entry at Humboldt Bay. The above has been true for many years, and still the people are getting up petitions calling for a port of entry which shall comprise all the waters and shores of the State of California north of the south boundary line of Humboldt County, for the reason that many vessels are built and owned at Humboldt Bay, and ought to be registered there. The nearest port of entry is at San Francisco, a distance of over two hundred miles. The new law proposed provides that the Fourth District shall be the District of Humboldt; to comprise all the waters and shores of the counties of Humboldt and Del Norte, in which Eureka, on the Bay of Humboldt, shall be the sole port of entry, and Crescent City a port of delivery. In the District of Humboldt there shall be a Collector, who shall ■ reside at Eureka, and one Inspector, to be appointed by the Collector, with the approval of the Secretary of the Treasury, for the port of Crescent City.

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132 YD INDUSTRIES OF THE COUNTY. Resources and Industries. ■ racter of Soil— Chief Productions— Stockising, General Fe i, DairyingProgress of Twenty YearsExports, Etc. Tin reeourci and industrie of IInmbol.lt are of great varii is principal ones b ■ ir< jtock-raiang, mining and manufacturing The e to a great extent support each other, and ffen i I foi the home markets created by thi mines and mills, agriculture would not have been so far developed aa it is to-day. Without a railroad, the farmers of bhi count} are thrown chiefly upon the home demand to furr • i .) i b market for a largo share of their produce, as lumbering and mining creates a demand for what the farmer raises. THREE DIVISIONS UF SOIL. Theland I naturally divided into three parts. The first division includes the lowlands near the coast, the alluvial lands on the rivers, ami the sloping lands near the coast, which in B places form a connecting link between the lowlands and the high timbered ridges. This division contains some of the richest soil in the world. It is nearly all agricultural land. Professor Eilgard, who analyzed the soil of the Eel River bottom, said : — " There is very little difference between the soil and subsoil down to thirty inches depth. I am inclined to think that the soil and Bubsoil have been exchanged, for the differences between them, according to the usual state of things, appear to be the wrong way, the surface soil being somewhat more clayey than the subsoil. " The soil and subsoil are very rich in potash, and contain a respectable amount of phosphates. A. somewhat extraordinary amount of magnesia, and of sulphuric acid, giving rise to the suspicion that in low spots there will be sometimes an "alkali," consisting largely of Epsom salt coming to the surface. The soil is remarkably poor in lime for one of its character; so much so that I would recommend the application of lime as one of its foremost needs, both as respects tillage and the making up of the other deficiency, viz., vegetable matter or humus. The latter, after liming, can be introduced by green manuring — plowing in of green crops. With the aid of these, your soil ought to hold out for a long time." SECOND DIVISION OF LAND. The second division includes the belt of timbered lands, which skirt the coast, at a greater or less distance from it. It approaches quite near to the coast in some places, and in others it recedes several miles from it; it varies in width from eight to fifteen miles, and rising, as it does, one ridge above another, and being densely timbered with evergreen trees, it caves the country, when viewed from the ocean, that dark sombre appearance for which it is so remarkable, and almost entirely hides from view, the still higher mountains in the interior, known as the Bald Mountains. This country is very uneven, being cut at short intervals by the numerous streams coming down from the interior to the coast with sharp ridges between them ; the earth is of a clayey character generally, but volcanic rocks make their appearance on the tops of some of the highest ridges; the hills and ridges are invariably steep, but seldom or never precipitous; it contains scarcely any agricultural land, a few small open spots on the different streams being all that can be found worthy of cultivation. THIRD DIVISION OF THE LANDS. The third division embraces the open mountain country, farther in the interior. This division is much the largest of the three. Though it is termed the Bald Mountain country, in contradistinction to the densely timbered lands between it and the coast, it is by no means destitute of timber, scrub oaks being scattered all over the ridges; groves of spruce and firs are found on the cool, shady sides of the ridges, generally in the moist places and near the springs in the gorges. At a greater elevation, near the sources of the streams, the long-leafed pine makes its appearance. The soil has generally a burnt red appearance, showing unmistakable evidence of having undergone the action of fire, and in some places masses of volcanic rocks protrude from the tops of the ridges. This country is chiefly for practical purposes, being covered in all places with grass of an excellent quality ; near the tops of the poorest ridges, before it was used so much for stock range, grows a grass that bears a seed nearly as large as oats. The lower moist spots, and particularly the alluvial spots near the streams, grow grass and clover of indescribable exhuberance, not surpassed by any cultivated meadow in the Atlantic States. This region is exceedingly well watered ; besides the streams already mentioned, and their numerous tributaries, running in all directions, springs are numerous, even near the tops of the high ridges. PLENTY OF WATER. One of the features of Humboldt County is its wealth in pure water. One finds it everywhere— pure and cold as the fountains of the upper Sierra. An old resident says there is not, he thinks, 160 acres in the county without a permanent spring of fine water. The springs of pure, cold water about this county are a marvel, and it is impossible to fully describe their beauty and usefulness. There are thousands and thousands. Every hill and mountain side teems with them, and

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COUNTY AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTIOl 133 the weary traveler and hi thii ty beasl find I pure water,

134 STOCK-RAISING AND WOOL GROWING INTERESTS. Barley— Nearly all the land in Humboldt County not covered by redwood ifl wt 11 adapted to the raising of barley. As the lands are very prolific its cultivation has generally proved agood Investment. The larger part sold is used at home by the mill men, this is generally ground before feeding. Mesquit Seed— The immense success of this article as a pasture grass is beyond parallel. No grass ever sown in the county has equaled it. It has been introduced as a pasture grass generally throughout the county. It flourishes on hill land or on bottoms. It will grow in any nook or corner which is worth I except as a pasture. It will support more stock to the acre of pasturage than any grass grown in the county. Steep hillsides which cannot be cultivated, if burned over and sown with this seed, are made as valuable as any of the other lands. Any place that it has been sown in this county, the crop improves with age. It is equal to bunch grass for sweetness and palatability for stock. Potatoes — Humboldt County is perhaps, the best potatogrowing county in the State. Three hundred and twenty-four sacks per acre have been grown, in weight twenty-one and a half tons to an acre. In the times when potatoes succeeded the best in this county, an average crop on bottom land was eight to ten tons per acre. It was discovered at an early day that this was a great country for potatoes. In 1857, Wm. Chapman raised from a patch of less than an acre, 30,000 pounds — fifteen tons. On the Bates Ranch 19,000 pounds was raised on three-fourths of an acre. Along the coast are alluvial benches varying from half a mile to three miles in width, which are exceedingly fertile from the washing of the ridges, the soil being of a black, rich vegetable mold, light and friable, and in places twenty feet deep. On this ground are raised the fine potatoes which market under the name of "Humboldt Spuds." In earlier times Humboldt, in the potato market, was king. Everybody could own a piece of land if he wished, and might reckon on his $300 or $400 for every acre cultivated. Good land for this crop and eligibly situated became enormously high in price. Fortunes were made in the business and all diversified forms of farming were dropped and disappeared in this. The end, of course, soon came; some retired in time, others with less prudence ventured on. Potatoes are no longer the leading article of farm export. Wool, oats and butter have all outstripped potatoes in commercial importance. Oats — All the bottom lands in Humboldt County will produce 100 bushels per acre of this grain. The many new mills and other enterprises which have been added to the industries of the county during the past years, have created a home market for oats, so as to cut oft* exports considerably. The climate appears peculiarly adapted to the production of oats. The heavy fogs near the coast which have deleterious influence on wheat for flour-making purposes, appear to be just what is needed to make a good crop of oats. Oats will do well on any of the land, but the hill land will not produce as well as the bottom lands, but they will produce more than any of the States east of the Rocky Mountains. They are a good paying crop in this county. PRINCIPAL fruits raised. No particular attention has been given to raising of fruit for a foreign market. Most kinds of fruit do well, and almost every farmer has more or less orchard and garden, The principal apple-producing portion of the county is Eel River Valley, where the trees are somewhat sheltered from the ocean breeze. There is also considerable cider made, but none to ship. The capabilities of the county in the way of producing this fruit are enormous. Anywhere in the count}', apples, pears, and plums luxuriate, except when exposed to the direct blasts of the northwest trade-winds on the ocean bank. In the interior all other fruits do well, save apricots, which are often caught by late spring frosts. Heavy fogs mark the coast during the summer months, and heavy rains may be looked for from October to May. The above are the principal productions of the county. A full list is given in the statistical list of productions. For several years past agriculture has shown the largest export footing, leading the lumber trade by a few hundred thousand, but with the present boom in lumber on the one hand, and the ceasing of the potato crop and shipment on the other, lumber is likely to take the lead for the next two or three years. SHEEP AND WOOL, The wool production has increased in a wonderful manner during the past ten years. The total product of the county in 1870 was 51,867 pounds, while the export in 1880 from Eureka alone reached the aggregate of 900,000 pounds, while the bulk from the southern portion of the county went out by the way of Shelter Cove; and no statistics are attainable. Much attention is being paid to the grading of flocks, many very fine bucks having been brought into the county during past seasons. Humboldt wool commands the highest market prices, ranging from four to seventeen cents higher than any other section of the Pacific Coast except Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. The wool is free from dirt, burrs and other deleterious substances. THE LARGEST SHEEP RANCH. The Fort Baker sheep ranch, owned by Russ, Porter & Hanson, is considered the largest in the county. When shearing time comes it is said that Fort Baker is as lively as a village. In 1881, shearing commenced the 6th and ended the 17th of June. Among the number of men on the ranch, thirty-eight were shearers, one doctor to doctor sheep, three men to drive the

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IMPORTANCE <>F THE DAIRYING INTEREST. 135 „1 pinto the pen I ''"•" ,i"- ! man to herd hoi i fifty men They beared U.OUO i waB 3,090 head; thetw m thai baled wool pol up bwobalesofwool that day, wHcb work ever done on any ranch i nty. Thel for any « an was L20 si pb idig heer.ng Rues, Hanson & Porter had a g leropof wool, which wa hard to beat for cleanline a and length ol taple Likeall other sheep own, 1 1 in the mountains, the3 Id iarge number ol dogs for the protect! fthe took AwellJLdl I that will lead the-paeki* *h*150. Hemus not only be trained to follow a bear or coyote persistently, but be taught to pay no 1 1 to either si p or ^ *»* wag6 war against destructive "varments" al 1 are fed on cold mush, witl b cream and sugar, with only an occasional feast of meat. Ofcher large sheep-raisers arc mentioned elsewhere. PRICES OF WOOL. The lowest average prfce. I wool for eleven , » J- «• •„, l870,wben » was quoted at fourteen een«. Ehe two ^e^eare we 187! aud 1872, Whea the average pneeo cflifoJa wool went op to twenty-,* an «JJ£ >»« Wool brought a higher price in lb. - tnan ,t ,„, durmg - MJ 1 g ^ ^ ^ rf ^^ ai ;» iSHO when it amounted to *u,u/*,i-»* h th,U1 Li H 0 00 pounds difference, yet themoney value m0re than 10 000/). ^ P ^ rf U|afc rf l876 by of the crop of 1880 exceed iyS0 i co nnn 000 The average price ot wuoi u 6 nearly b2.000.000. 1 production of the State was twenty-two cents, and the P d for the past eleven years am^ ^ "^ ^ of which produced in cash S78,S04«M O^ornia wool has been steadUy vn« ^ assumed no proportions worthy of note STOCK-BA1S1NG. In earner years gra*ng was a — — ^ -« ^r^-^Crr^tlrron.theeentra, qua,led climate mvt . la,. Ur. great losses sustained and southern parts of the State, 1 * ^ ^ ^^ from Indian depredateons m the t,culation „£ came to he a certain and m*~ ^ ^ of ^r^-lJol management late yea,, ;rh:r:reandsteadysrcesofro::o=k^ A great deal o£ pasture land > used as ranges f.,r ,1.,-y, and THB DAIBYWO BCSISESS. ■tUr-maWng is ft 7'"'Z^ . The ,.,,,;;, crop n,, ; :i tlmii in this COUnt] Bnn»boldt batter ■> ghest rates. » lar» ,i I trynearFemdalebe I. lf**»* lq ,irely. Thec< tryiehaiy.l t parteeulariy rough . .higbeethi.Ua, **»»-"-f "™ products have reaehed a high figure at t, while the aver ,., .have afforded a good return fort, -r.ta.-d lw involved. Dairying in II » County "ay the ^.b^beeome.neofour^ingindastnesen.ploymg^ „, ,„,,, a large amount of capital and labor, and ,ts eh.ef proL^-butter-hae established for itself a reputateon second to 71 in the State. The climate of Huml.ul.lt . pecuharly Ipta lairying, espeeially along the coast he.t-a strip »y fiftl miles wide, and extending from Mendocmo on th fll to Del Norte on the north, a distance of one hundred I !. "Z are uo extremes of heater cold to whioh int. or Konsare subject, while the ranges are covered w.th nutri ties grasses-native clover and ttllaree, which are hep green au thrifty by the fogs and moist sea air well into the fall, a,l« of longer dairy seasons than would otherw.se be posst"'There are still considerable tracts of good dairy land in Bear Eiver and Mattole sections-at least what wdl make g od Jairy land when e.eared up .nd seeded w.th red clove, or Engwhite clover mixed with timothy or cheat grass Some of to land lies in the hills bordering the Eel R.ver Valley, southeast of Bear River. THE LARGEST DAIRIES. Hon Joseph Russ owns thousands of acres which he has di%"', fitting up a dairy in the heart of the Bear trv which will be one of the largest in the county. rr:xrweii «*- - **. — - — "of thT Xhtv-one dairies in the Bear River country Mr. Z wD; twenty, nineteen of which are leased. On these i- -J A ^S0 cows are milked, being an average of eighty-one dairies. 4.o80 co* s a ^ a trifle over fifty-six cows to the dairy.

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136 IMPOKTANOE OF THE DAUlTIXGJXTEREST. yielded 732,800 pounds of butter for the season of 1881, being L average of 100 , I t. the cow. The average price for which this butter «■ .old was *">****' ""J" £ pound. This makes the product of each cow S«.80 for the Lson, which is a very fair return, considering that the cow would not cost more than one-half or two-tlnrds of that amount. The total sales of butter from this district for the past season amounted to 8205,184. The great bulk of to butter is shipped to Eureka and San Francisco markets. Capt H H. Buhne. at his ranch seven miles from this city, also has fine large buildings, and will be able, with the improvements now making, to tie up nearly one hundred head of stock. Ho is breeding Jerseys and Short Horns, w.th winch he has been quite successful. Wo make the following extracts from an article furnished us on the subject of butter-making by Richard Johnson of Capetown, one of the oldest dairymen of that section :« It is found out by experienced dairymen that the best butter is made from milk skimmed at the right time, which varies from thirty-six to forthright hours, entirely depending on the temperature at which, the milk is kept, which ought to be from 00° to 70° Fahrenheit. There is a great deal said in books about dairying, or rather the theory of dairying, which is not worth the paper it is written upon to the practical man. Some of these book-writers say that it is essentially necessary to wash the cow's udder before milking etc., m the winter time. It may be so occasionally, but not always; and then again -that the milker ought to have his hands and ace washed.hair combed and have awhite apron on while he milks. So far as his hands are concerned it is all well enough, but the other appendages are, to say the least, superfluous and imprac icable, and if there was no other reason, the proprietor could not afford to pay thirty or forty dollars a month to keep Ins hired help in the shape of milkers dressed and cleaned with white aprons. It is right and proper to have everything around the dairy house clean and sweet as circumstances wil permit, so as to be able to send a No. 1 article of hotter to the "^My method of dairying is to have the cows milked clean in a, short a time as possible. A good milker will milk twenty cows in two hours and a half, or three hours at the farthest I have the milk strained into a hundred or more gallon vat which stands in the dairy house, or on the porch of the dairy house, and have it strained by one man all the tune, and into pans that will hold six or seven quarts, set on revolving racks. The mdk stands from thirty-six to sixty hours, depending on the temperature. We churn every day by horse power wash the butter thoroughly with water in the churn We do not let the butter gather in a lump in the churn until it is washed. It is churned until it gets in little round lumps about the size of a pea, then draw off the buttermilk, put in plenty of water to keep it m that state until the buttermilk is aU washed out of it then turn the churn round half a dozen or more times. Which will gather it up in a lump fit to be taken out on to the butter table to be worked and salted, which ought to be done as quickly as possible, only just workingit enough to mix the salt well through it, so that there will be no white s reaks in it It is either moulded into what is called two pound rolls, or put down solid. If put into rolls, there is about six pounds 0f salt put to the hundred pounds of butter. If put down solid, eight pounds of salt put to the one hundred pounds of bUWer'" DEFICIENCY IN WEIGHT OF BUTTER. ■•I do earnestly hope that the time is not far distant when there will be a law passed that will make the two-pound roll of butter weigh two pounds. As it is now, the box of fatty roll, of butter which ought to weigh 100 pounds, ranges from ninety-three to ninety-seven pounds, which is all in favor of the retail dealer, at least so says the commission man. .. A dairy of 100 cows requires the labor of five men for about five months, and four men for another month and three men nntU the cows are dried up, except when they feed. The milking season lasts in Humboldt County on Bear River seven months. On the Mattole from five to six months. On the farming land in the valleys, longer. ■■ On Bear River, Mattole, and in some other places, we dairy altogether on the natural grasses, which are found to be very """resent dairy region isnot very extensive, but the information 1 can obtain from other places, we can keep more stock to the acre than any other county in the State. We milk now, in this county, about 5,000 cows, and on the increase every year, and in ten years from now I have no doubt there will he 10,000 dairy cows in the county. . There is quite a difference now and when 1 came to the county m 18ob. 1 do not think there were 200 cows, all told, dairied in the county then, and butter was made in a way that would not bring the highest market price. Then it was thought that .1 the buyers objected to a few hairs or a few specks of dirt, that they were getting too particular. One man, an acquaintance ot mine, gave up the business on that account. "There is one fact that every dairyman knows, that the longer we remain in the business the more proficient we become. I have dairied for nearly a quarter of a century, and I am still learning every year something more about it. As yet we have not the experience in feeding that they have in other places. We depend upon the natural grass, which will keep a cow in good condition the year round to every four acres. In some places it will require more, but on most of the dairy ranches on Bear River, a cow can be kept on every four acres. The valley or farm land, which is a rich, alluvial depositwhen properly subdued, cultivated, and put down in tame grass, clover, alfalfa or lucern, can be made to keep a cow to the acre.

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RANCH NOME OF THOMAS STEWART, ON BEAR RIVER,* MILES FROM FERNUALE.HUMBOLDT CO.CAL. EXCELSIOR DAIRY KANori.OF

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PROGRESS OK THE LEADING INDUSTRIES. ALFALFA FOR COWS. "It is being found out that the valley land will produce lfalfa. I visited a fanner the other day that had about aD acre, and he told me that he had cut it three times, a coup', of tons' each time, and,although our climate is moist, he told me that the yield would be ...ore if irrigated. If alfalfa can be socially raised, our county is only in its infancy. Every yeai fanners become more convinced of the profits of dairy husbandry. ••The climate, soil, ami surroundings are better adapted to this branch of farming than any other, a* the facility for KOtting bulky produce to mark,t is v,ry expensive, takmg into consideration the expense of getting it to a shipping port and thence to San Francisco. -By putting the products of the farm into butter and pork, for they both go together, his freight to and from a shipping point, is nothing in comparison to that of grain and potatoes. Tins is well known to every intelligent farmer in the county aml I have not a doubt in my mind, but in the not d. an future dairying will be one of our principal mdustr.es. Tee h a great need of a creamery and che.se factory one or mo em I Kel River Valley, which to my mind, for the small dany Li -uld be a much cheaper way to convert the, cream into butter, than by doing so at, home. Peas in acres toes in acres Potatoes in bush llav in acres 208 7*4 .... i Haymtons.... Buttor m i",un;u se in pounds .' Apple trees g33Q Peach trees Pear trees Plum trees LIVE STOCK. 667 508 Number of horses Number of mules Number of horned cattle Number of Bheep Number of goats ' "~ Number of hogs . i.r.:te 528 . 19,205 52 S L8 1,706 •4,714 8,890 7.7-JV L0 b57 2,550 927 1,228 1,014 1,008 26,628 170,829 372 7,267 IMPROVEMENTS. I860 1880 2 Grist-mills, steam ._, ( inst-mills, water power 4 Grist-mills, run of stone ^ fa ., QQQ Grain ground in bushels , g Saw-mills, steam power s 3 32,340.0111) 25,1 L0.500 86,239,452 or the United States." PROGRESS TOR TWENTY YEARS. L- *■ of the leading industries will show The following statistics of the leacli g how the county has progressed m ^^^^ could be obtained atthe tune by ^^ ^ ^ of 1860 were reported by J- J. D« present of 1880 were furnished us by Oreo, n County Assessor:— 1860 10.975 Land enclosed 3_547 Land cultivated lf564 Wheat in acres 40,564 Wheat in bushels "" 58 Barley in acres 1,991 Barley in bushels ' 542 Oats in acres "\. .15,723 260,774 Oats in bushels 63 364 Corn in acres 1>"° i0,223 Corn in bushels Saw-mills, water power Lumber sawed, feet Shingles made ..;• $1308,801 Total assessed valuation * PRODUCTIONS AND EXPORTS. ft has been the custom of the Tir,ies for several years past t0 I Ih its reader, with a statement of the productions and tTof the county, and from the valuable tables thus gathexports of the coun y. ^ ^ ^ Humboldt has three 1880 105,347 27,897 3.705 86,600 3,289 54,418 7.193 r f~». *Ro upfir HumoolUb nt»

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138 RAILROAD COMMUNICATION REQUIRED. 15,500 Lard 24,400 Tallow 468^440 Butter ••' 23600 Leather 103,460 i: ' 85,200 ™-"7i.M .... 191,800 salmon, 4 ddm 077 900 Salmon, cases "33600 Tan Bark .25'000 Charcoal 8 710 Flax Seed ' Total lbs. 21,110,915 Quantity. Articles. Poultry, 97 coops, av 3 doz Eggal.SOl boxes, av 30 doz S9g0 Mouldings bdla 4 061 Redwood doors g 114000 |{»ftkef "".'.'. '.'.'.' "'.'.'. 9.410',000 230 204 54 373 87 153 25 91 1881. 9.039,700 7,735,650 1,386,280 5G0.840 869,550 468,440 85,200 5,830 85,100 191,800 39,030 Shingles Box material, bdls. Starch, boxes Horses Calves Sheep Hogs Pelts, bdls , Skins and furs bdls .48,630,121 Lumber, in feet *"' The export from the mills of the Trinidad Mill Co., Falk, Chandler & Co., and the Miliord Lumber Co., are not included in the report of the lumber shipments. To show the increase of business in Humboldt County for the last live years we give from the Times a comparative table showing the shipments of 1877 and 1881. Articlea. 187L ST- :':::::::::::SaSS IT .v::::::::::::: «3%° Wool' .7. '.'... 1,551,880 Rnffor 115,015 S :.■..: , i4o,6oo Hides.^'ry 21,990 Hides salt W00 Salmon. Abbta 276,300 Eggs, doz 1A>°° In the past year the county has made a good showing, take it all in all, and the present outlook for 1882 is most encouraging. Attention is being paid to every industry, and everything looks bright and prosperous. The Standard gives the summary of exports for the entire county for 1881 as follows:— In conclusion we have, of the items specified, the summary of exports for the county to be: — Lumber, feet 146,000,000 Shingles 1 3,648,000 Shakes 5,644.000 Posts 238,000 Wool, pounds 1,015,000 Butter, pounds 570,000 The arrivals in port, 322, exclusive of steamers. The total tonnage, 92,450 tons. Railroads of Humboldt. WHAT Humboldt County needs is railroad communication with the rest of the world. But this is a question of time only. The large and increasing business will soon demand some step towards its construction. FIRST RAILROADS IN THE STATE. But it must not be supposed by the outside world that Humboldt has no railroads. The fact is the first railroads in this State were constructed here in 1854. At that date there were upwards of twenty miles of good, graded, substantial roads built by loggers, and used to convey logs to the waters' edge. Since that date iron rails have been laid and locomotives used on most of them. THE VANCE RA.ILROAD. John Vance, one of the active and most enterprising citizens of the county, many years ago, asked the public for the right of way and a small subsidy, as a guarantee, and in return would construct and equip a road from Eureka up Eel River Valley. The offer was not accepted, many being diametrically opposed to granting subsidies, while others owning land along the route demanded nearly as much damages for the narrow strip of land necessary, as their whole property was worth. Of course, the project was abandoned. He did not, however, abandon the idea of a railroad, but constructed one as a private enterprise. It extends from tidewater to his mills on Mad River. This road was commenced in 1874. Besides opening up a large section of fine farming land it has made the fortunate proprietor altogether independent of other sources of supply of logs for his mills, of which he has two. The road is five miles long and cost the proprietor S15,000 per mile. Mr. Vance has a Baldwin locomotive and about thirty truck cars, upon which are transported the immense redwood logs and large quantities of lumber. At the tide-water terminus of this road lighters receive the lumber and are floated with the outgoing tide to a point eight miles above Eureka, where vessels of a capacity of 300,000 feet receive their loads, and are towed to the city wharves by Mr. Vance's steamer. He recently made the road a public one and built a warehouse for the reception of freight. He will doubtless extend the road into the dense redwoods of Mad River and also northwestwardly to the valuable timber of Little River. This road crosses Mad River on a Howe Truss Bridge heretofore mentioned and illustrated. H. B. AND L. RAILROAD. In 1875, the South Bay Railroad Company had a track laid from the marsh on South Bay, up Salmon Creek a distance of five miles. The road was built for logging purposes. The road was standard gauge, built of forty-pound T iron and cost,

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THE HAIUtOADS OK HDMBOUW COURTS'. 139 -onioned 815,000 per , nib. ft wa« operated by a tank en 3 W- tr-k — °f muAve buad re rVi working *- road A log thirty*. M tag and twelve feet I kJeter, weighing twenty-five ten,,wM tran^erted » . ,. ,. truok8 The grade of the road was very steep, someSeeretary, Charles Nelson , Treasurer, John Kentfleld , Sup ESj.W.Hender«.n;Diree1»rs,C.PageJ.Page,. SSSc^K* H.H.BU1 I J. W. Henderson **Z l« Iv Of timber up Salmon Creek was not so extend as I „nd in the short time of three years the supply al tt valuation far exeeeding its real worth. Some were inlaid that they had taken up their .ami » ear.y day . I „,,ans and'high water, and now, jnst as they we, ge, 1 fi»ed comfortably, and wanted to ^~^*J% "-/^r^-tTur;:^ caches from tide-watev on Humbol *B£ ^ ^ & four miles. The company own a sua* number of trucks. XRCATA AND MAD RIVER RAILROAD. «wi Tnlv 22 1881. of the ArArticles of incorporation were filed July ^ corporation are set forth to ne horse narrow-gauge railroad to be operand by ste ^ power, the same to he construed .om th ^ of at the northerly end of Humboldt Bay t ^ Mad River, passing through the town of ArcaU^ ^ ^ portion of freight and passenger, rh ^ ^ ,„,t year were G. W. B. Yocon ■ R* ^ ^ . Austin Wiley and E. A. Demmg. 1 he cap 000. . „fthe Areata Transportation ComThis road is an extensmn °f the * M;ner.s UiU, on Mad pan/a road, the initial pom t hem ^ ^ ^ ^ River, three and one-half m.les bey ^ ^ ^^ o£ fifteen The company have extended ^ the Ulilesnp Mad River, where the new null redwood timber country. ^^j Statcs. Their Wharf is said to be the longest^ ^ ^ ^ Eu. The company's steamer makes co ^ ^ completed, reka, a distance of five unles. lta. the foil length, b, the first of March. 188S tor passengers. M, lumber, etc., Yocum b FenuUd. pwpriel jiCOBl CBBBK BAU.KO.VD. This n»d i- about two mite in .ength.on MfM wUll .tended » the timber teeut *•■"••*" crosse- h* Thi. rata --«* tide-waternpintoth. ** cover the ,1..,.- »d ,,,,,.. thc„W The log, brought d^rn by the »U. J will be rafted to mill. . .. f Dolbeer & I to are constructing tins road, ft built 1 , F , ; with a grade which allows the standard gauge of **jn* g™ ^^ . loaded cars to n-ach tiae-wawn j horses are then need to return .-, cars to the upper nJ .be road. This constitute* the railroaUs » the v,c,n,ty of '"A we area of tine redwood and spruce .umber is tributary to t, ro d which Wi.l be ..tended as occas.on re, » Uu 2. 00.000 feet of logs have t transports over he r,^ t,)is year. It h. pie facilities for transport"* »» I the amount mentioned. TRINIDAD MILL COMPANY RAILROAD. Tho Trinidad Mill Company' is composed of Messrs. F J. Ihe luniud. Rmith of San Francisco, ami Hooper, J. A. Hoope, >* '■*££' ^ Superintcndent. Josiah Bel. of Trmrdad, the tatUr bem J* h buU(, in transporting lumiee twenty-four trucks o. ma, tmcks be,- from the mill to the wharf, and e«?n for logging purpose-. exclu,ive of a number of tram

110 THE LUMBER INDUSTRIES OF HUMBOLDT. The Lumber Business. Redwood Forests— Large Logs and TreesFirst Saw-Mill— Business of 1881— Future Supply of RedwoodDescription of Mills— ExPtS Of Lumber, Etc. 'I'm 3E "Id Muscovites, who settled at Bodega Bay, in lSli', produced t-1 1

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% Ir.lTV RESIDENCE OF ISAAC MINOR. I ufu| d I - . 'V ; RESIDENCE AND RANCH OF ISAAC MINOR.

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TSAW MILL ON MAD RIVER. f j - ; . ;■■ -. E MILE NORTH OF ARCATA. HUMBOLDT CO. CAL

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THE LUMBER INDUSTRIES OF HUMBOLDT. 141 of them 300 feet high, and with a circumference' of sixty feet two or three feet from the ground. All of the tree large. The acre of land on which those trees stood would yield much more than J ,000,000 feet of himoer„or say enough to load four of the largest three-masted schooners. The size quality and grandeur of the redwood trees of California, and the extent of the red woo, I forests, have been the theme of many writers and the admiration and wonder of the lovi nature, until their fame is world-wide. But a slight conception can he had of their size ami height until they are seen. All accounts seem fabulous until one stands amidst a forest of these monsters; stands at the base of a tree sixteen feet in diameter and four hundred Eoet in height, straight as an arrow, covered with massive layers of bark twelve to twenty inches thick. WILL THE SUPPLY FA 11/ The calamity which will befall the people of Humboldt County by the exhaustion of the forests of redwoods could be iu a great measure averted, if the growth of the youn THK BIO TREFButcbing'fl Magazine in 1n:.i; says: On the trail from Trinidad to Salmon Stiver th.jre is a hollow tree measuring thirtybhrei feet in diametei Thi -ituated between Trinidad and Elk (.'amp, near Redwood Ci rid about midway in one ofthedena ably on the continent, and it is unnoc that it would be a vary choice range for hungry animals. Men have frequently camped in that tree, not from choice, however, but because they were caught by night, whose dark mantle falls upon the wayfarer in those sombre old woods much sooner than in the open country, or perhaps a sudden rise in Redwood Greek "luring a portion of the year would carry away the bridge, consisting of a fallen tree across the stream, with the rough bark on the upper side hewn off. The old tree would afford a very good shelter to those bound down from the mines until a crossing could be effected. We could quote stories from reliable gentlemen in the county that we scarcely believe ourselves, in reference to the size of trees. FIRST SAW-MILL AND LOG. The first mill on Humboldt Bay was the "Tauppoos," which after a two years' trial, was abandoned. The Ryan, Duff & Co.'s mill was made from the old steamer Santa Clara, and was the first successful mill on Humboldt Bay. It had four gangs of saws, one circular, one edger, one cross-cut saw, two double lath machines, one shingle machine, one planing machine, turning lathes, etc. Its daily capacity with double gangs of men was an average of 00,000 feet of lumber, board measure, and 40,000 laths. The capital invested was $100,000, and the number of men employed in the mill was from thirty-five to forty. Since then improvements have continued until perfection has been nearly attained in modern mills. The first saw-log cut on Humboldt Bay was felled in November, 1850, by George Carson and Alexander Gilmore. It was a spruce, and measured 140 feet to the first limb. The amount of lumber exported for year ending June 30, 1854 was 20,567.000 feet. This was at the end of only two years' development. MILLS AND BUSINESS FOR 1881. Within the boundaries of Humboldt County there are twentytwo saw-mills. The motive power in seventeen of these is steam and in remaining five, water. The official returns show that during 1880 the lumber sawed was 41,969,766 feet, and the number of shingles made was 19,618,000. For 1881 the lumber exported from the county amounted

142 THE LUMBER INDUSTRIES OF HUMBOLDT. to the following, according to E. II Howard, who carefully collected statistic Lumber in feet l41.ouo.oou Shingles l.W*n<><> Shakes 5,64,4,000 Posts -W°°TAB LUMBER BUSINESS. The following facts from the Democratic Standard of May 7. 1881, relative to the [limber business, were prepared by William Ayers, the Editor, especially for our History. " Seven or eight months ago the Standard published several articles sotting forth the extent and productiveness of the territory that was being laid with railroads along the Southern Pacific; the number of railroad connections with Pacific deepwater ports; the marvelous development of latent wealth, and the consequent activity which must by force of circumstances, l.e created along the redwood belt of California, and particularly around its most eligible shipping points. While some thought our predictions "rose colored" and high flown, yet, they were founded upon careful calculation, and at this early day they have not only proven to be correct, but we did not tell half the .story. Mill men with whom we have conversed within the last two weeks have told us: " Why, we cannot supply the demand ! If it keeps on thin way we cannot fill half the orders !" There is no mystery about the condition of things, for it is the result of conjunction of events and conditions which have conspired to bring about the fact in a very natural way. Let any one who is interested in the advancement of Northern California in general, and the redwood lumber interests in particular, consider what has been in the past, and is developing, and will be in the next few years, the market for our redwood lumber. California has been the main consumer, with occasional cargoes to South America and the Islands. Glance over the map of the United States and Mexico and make a comparison of the territory that has required our lumber heretofore, with what is now coming rapidly in reach by water and rail. The problem is too plain to require any argument that the demand for lumber of all kinds for the six to ten will be four to six times greater yearly than at any previous time. Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado alone, more than treble the field, and when there is added to this the whole of Mexico and Central America, which are now throbbing with the march of improvement, and all of which are devoid of everything that can take the place of redwood as a finishing material, the market that is opening to our doors is at once apparent. And yet even this is not all. FUTURE TIMBER SUPPLY. " Let us look for a moment at the sources of supply for finishing lumber. We know that the coast redwood belt reaching from Del Norte to Sonoma, is the only body of this timber available to commerce. East of the Rocky Mountains— Maine, Michigan, Minnesota and Wisconsin— are the only States that have a supply of lumber sufficient for export beyond their own borders. " All the rest are either devoid of lumber or consume all they are able to produce. Michigan, Minnesota and Wisconsin, by the best calculations, are estimated to have 13,000,000,000 of lumber, all told, and of this amount the combination which controls the lumber business in these States cut, last year, 1,564,000,000 feet. At this rate it is very certain that the sources of supply to satisfy the demand of the entire Atlantic seaboard and interior States cannot long hold out, and the price has already reached a figure which permits the shipment of redwood lumber and shingles across the continent by rail, and though not generally known, a few manufacturers and dealers are already driving a profitable trade in this direction. All these facts are conspiring to make a wonderful activity in the redwood lumber manufacturing business, ami that activity, as a matter of course, will be greatest when the lumber is most available. " Humboldt Bay is the best shipping point along the entire belt. It is true that the Oregon lumber will enter the same market, but nothing can take the place of i-edwood as a finishing material, except cedar, and the supply of that timber is too limited to affect the case. At one glance there, it will be readily seen that our opportunities are greater than ever before, and that Humboldt Bay and County stand at the head as a supply depot and shipping point. This revival will stimulate other branches of industry, and we hope, encourage the investment of a great amount of manufacturing capital. AVAILABLE HITMBOLDT REDWOOD. " The timber lands of Humboldt are of themselves a mine of incalculable wealth to their owners. Let us for a moment make a calculation of the available redwood lands of Humboldt County, which will be as follows: — Number of acres on Humboldt Bay 125,000 Eel River 100,000 Van Duzen & Yager 75,000 Redwood Creek 100,000 " Little River 40,000 Mad River 30,000 Around Trinidad 40,000 Total... 510,000. " There are what maybe termed the available redwood lands of Humboldt County. There are some outside bodies of timber, perhaps 100,000 acres in all, not including the above enumeration, which will not be reached for many years. That which can be easily reached is ample to supply all possible demand for a long time to come, but the cutting capacity of our mills is not equal to the demands." \\r A john vance's mill. John Vance's mill, on Mad River, constructed in 1875, bone of the most important mills of Humboldt, with a cutting capacity of 40,000 feet per day. There is also an extensive shingle mill in operation. The mill is situated at the end of Vance's

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THE LUMBER [NDU8TRIES OF HUMBOLDT. 145 railroad. A feature of this road which our artist lias sketched and which forms a beautiful scene in one of our views, is the Howe Truss Bridge, over Mad River, two span* of L 20 feet each, built by the Pacific Bridge Company, at a cost of SI 0,000. He has so planned his mill as to obtain the advantages of a logging pond of large extent, which holds in reserve a large stock of logs. On Mad riiver he has a large timber tract of .'1,000 acres. Mr. Vance has another large mill in Eureka which cuts large amounts of lumber. Jt would at first thought appear that the supply for these mills would soon be exhausted. Mr. Vance employs a large force of men, sometimes as many as 150, in his extensive operations. The total amount of lumber cut in L881 was 11,143,889 feet; total number of shakes, 508,925, and of shingles, 7,550,250. For nearly three decades men have been plunging into the depths of these grand old redwood forests, and utilizing those stately trees. Steadily with tho growth of California this interest has increased until it stands to-day a marvel on the commercial catalogue of the State. Millions of feet are cut yearly, and yet the source seems practically inexhaustible. All along the streams putting back from the coast of the old Pacific this industry teems, and many mills have been built, and thousands of men find daily employment, and millions of dollars are thus yearly earned and distributed among the laboring classes. To the city market it rolls in one unceasing tide, thence it is distributed to all parts of the State. Day and night the hum of this industry is heard in every mountain glen, and continues in one grand unceasing round, and the sharp ring of the glistening steel as it cleaves the mighty bolt makes mellow music to him whose homo is in the redwood forests. REDWOOD LUMBER FOR DOORS. John Vance informs us that he is shipping redwood lumber to San Francisco, to be used in the manufacture of doors. This is a new departure. Doors are usually made from pine, and the custom has been so general and so long in vogue that it seemed like heresy to suggest that redwood be subst.tuted. The principal argument used against redwood in door-making is that it is too soft to hold screws for the hinges. This may be the beginning of a large demand for redwood to be used in the manufacture of doors. The price of all grades of lumber has advanced at intervals throughout the year, until now it is from two to three dollars higher per thousand feet than it was at the close of lbbO. When the lumbering business was new here, the cheapest and easiest means of transporting logs was by water. As a consequence, all the timber skirting the streams was cut off. Then railroads had to be constructed for hauling logs. 1 hese are fully described under the head of railroads. They demonstrated the practicability of transporting logs to tide water at such cost as renders their manufacture into lumber, at living rates, possible. LOGOIXO BT STEAM. it a: Carson have lately employed a logging machine of their own invention or « already more than l ir greatest e xpectations. It is at in the woods at Salmon Creek, where it cau be seen by trough to visit the camp. It bids fair to change very considerably the system of logging. The i of such a "contrivance" was laughed at by practical men, and when th< machine was set down among the "crew" at Salmon Creek it was pronounced utterly impracticable. But the inventors had faith in the new machine, and put it in motion. It has performed its work to perfection from the first* and is now a " regular hand" in the Salmon Creek woods. The machine i I to be used in blocking out roads, hauling out of the way all waste material and hauling logs into the roads and coupling them together ready for the ox team to take away. I« consists of an upright boiler and engine. To those who are familiar with the logging woods, or who have been accustomed all their lives to see the unwieldy oxteam tugging at the great logs it must seem a great innovation. The Millu.nl Mill, at Salmon Creek, manufactured for 18S1 — Lumber.fl WgMg i^:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::-2« Posts °'746 The other mill of Dolbeer & Carson is of the largest capacity of any on the Bay. ISAAC MINOR & CO'S. MILL. A new mill has been erected by this firm on Mad River, a view of which is given on another page. The mill building proper, is 130x135 feet with the necessary sheds and outbuildin crs added. AH the modern improvements are placed in the mill, and is considered one of the most compact, complete and easiest working mills on the bay. Besides the mill there are other improvements on an extensive scale. A massive dam has been built across the creek, thus forming a pond or receptacle for logs, and it is built in such a substantial manner that no doubts ire entertained but what it will stand the highest water or oreatest freshets. The capacity of the pond will be from ten°to fifteen million feet of logs. The outlook for the company owning this property is very flattering, as they have almost every advantage known in logging and milling in this county. The mill is located right in the midst of the timber ; the logs for the first year or two can be felled into the pond at a very small expense, thus enabling the company to manufacture lumber at a cost of several dollars less on a thousand feet than other manufactories. The machinery works very satisfactorily It is claimed that 50,000 feet can be sawed per day and the capacity of the mill was intended to be only 30,000 feet per day. A steam donkey engine is used on the side hills to move the logs.

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THE LUMBER INDUSTRIES OF HUMBOLDT. J. RL'SS & CO'S. MILL. This energetic firm have on the "Wand" one of the most perfectly constructed mills on the Pacific Coast, called the Excelsior Mill. The old rigs for sawing lumber have had to give place to the most improved devices that could be found in th.s country. The logs are hauled into the mill on an improved car track and rig. They are then placed on the most perfect double circular saw to be found in any mill on the coast. Here in where the first « Prescott 1 direct Steam Feed " was used th.s ^ ol th, Rockj Mountain., a perfect machine for shoving the carriage both ways. This machine has many other minor improvement* not to be found in other mills, such as saw relief, carriage, trucks, track, guides, etc From these saws aU lumber six inches thick and 1- pa through an improved edger, thug ripping and edging it to the proper width in passing it once through the machine, after which the edgings are separated from the good, the waste passing to one side are placed in I levator, which takes them to the fire outside ; the lumber going to the other side, passes over or through an ingenious gang trimmer, cutting both ends of it at once, making each length exact and alike. There are two engines, one, eighteen inches bore, by twenty inches stroke, running 160 revolution a minute; the other, fourteen inches bore by thirty inches stroke, making 110 revolutions. This last one is considered much too small for the work and is soon to be replaced by another considerable larger, of twenty -inch bore and same stroke, thus making the power complete. The steam is generated by six flue boilers, fortytwo inches diameter and twenty-four feet long, set in two nests' thus making it essential to have two smoke-stacks. The fires burn the wet redwood sawdust placed on the fire by an ingenious method. Thus it can be seen the fires are kept burning by machinery— none of the laborious shoveling to be seen in this mill. Steam is easily kept up at the desirable figure, about eighty pounds. In connection with the boiler there is an improved heater, it also being the first in use on this bay. This is peculiar insomuch that it condenses nearly all the steam coming from the engines and other machines, to be re-used, and at the same time filters all the new or fresh water wanted to keep the supply good from all wastage. The class of mechanics and workmen engaged in this mill are fully up to the standard of the improved machinery. All ■ intelligent men, understanding their positions and qualified to fill them. Our space will not permit an extended description of this mill and its improved machinery, and we close with the following remarks made by Hon. J. Russ at the dinner on " Open, ing Day," which shows the honesty of the man and his positive sympathy with all working men, and especially those in his employ. He lays out a well-considered system for both the employer and employes to follow. "After having made a careful examination of the old mil^ I concluded that she was behind the times and too slow for the e. Therefore I obtained Mr. Evans to remodel, rebuild, and ^construct the mill and everything in connection with it. I am well pleased with his work, and we seem to have a model mill in every sense of the word. ••While Mr. Evans was remodeling the mill, I saw that there were many other things of great importance that needed remodeling. I saw that there was no proper place provided for the men to sleep, and that wrong I determined to right. I try always to measure such things as I would have them measured out to me. After working hard all day 1 want a good room and a good bed to sleep in, and I want every man that works for me to have just as good a room and just as good a bed to sleep in as I have myself. This feeling has prompted me to have a house erected containing forty bedrooms, furnished with good spring beds, bedding and other furniture necessary to make it comfortable and pleasant. Also a reading room and all the other comforts possible to provide under the circumstances. "I also observed in connection with the boarding-house that the time allowed for meals was much too limited for comfort or health. Therefore I have arranged for the men to have as much time to eat their meals as I have to eat mine. Your physical and your mental powers are your capital, and I have endeavored by these changes to so protect that capital that you will realize the greatest results possible from investments. " I have long been of the opinion that the relation between employer and employe should be readjusted in many respects. At present it seems to be the sole aim of employers to obtain the greatest amount of work at the least possible cost, while those employed too often take no further interest in their work than to put in his allotted hours, with that characteristic slowness of those whose sole interest is his hire. I am convinced that labor adjusted on this basis has a constant and almost inevitable tendency to engender and' precipitate the strikes and other harsh and desperate remedies for supposed and actual grievances. The remedy for this is a community of interest between employer and employe. I do not mean by this cooperation as used in its popular sense. I regard that as impracticable, unless in exceptional lines of industry, but I mean such a common interest as will make those in prosperity a common benefit. There must be capital and there must be labor. Without capital, labor is useless, and without labor the greatest capitalist is but a helpless man at most. So capital should cherish labor because it is its hands and feet, its eyes and ears, and the strong arm of labor should always be ready to defend capital, for without it labor is but a body without breath in its lungs or blood in its veins. "And in conclusion may I not express the hope that this step in the right direction may be followed up until it is the rule and not the exception, and until the path here marked out becomes a broad highway along which capital and labor, hand in hand, shall move around in peace and prosperity."

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The Lumber Business of D. R. Jones & Co. In Eureka, in 1860, David R. Jones, in company with Mr. John Kentfield, of San Francisco, under the firm name of D. R. Jones & Co., purchased a small saw-mill in Eureka from Mr. S. L. Mastick, known in those days a the "Smiley " mill. It was what is called a " sash " mill, having a Hash saw as the principal saw, and by which the logs were sawed into boards and then placed on a small edger to be edged and ripped into boards of the required dimensions. The cut. ting capacity of this mill -was then about 3,000 feet per day of twelve hours, cutting only spruce and pine lumber. Shortly after they improved the mill, putting in the lirst circular saw on the bay for sawing cants; also a Hawkins' patent log carriage. These improvements increased the cutting capacity to about 25,000 feet per day. HUMBOLDT REDWOOD INTRODUCED. In 1861 they sawed and shipped on the schooner Dashaway the first full cargo of redwood lumber that had been shipped from Humboldt Bay. Previous to this, the redwood in Humboldt County was considered to be of no value, and unfit for any purpose, but now is considered the best on the coast. The demand for it is increasing steadily every year. During the last few years there has been from 40,000,000 to 60,000,000 feet shipped from the bay annually. A great deal of it is now being shipped to such ports as foreign as Mexico, South America, Sandwich Islands, Australia and other places, the demand increasing steadily as the people learn the many advantages of the redwood. New York and other . eastern cities are also beginning to use redwood lumber and redwood shingles. MILL ON INDIAN ISLAND. In 1866, Mr. Jones and Mr. Kentfield took Captain H. H Buhne as a third partner, the firm name remaining the same and built the large double mill on Indian Island about a half mile from Eureka, the cutting capacity of which is about 90.000 feet per day. The supply of logs for the mills was then obtained from the forests along the edges of the bay and the .mall streams emptying into it. But after severa ly-» the timber along the edges of the bay and the small ,ti ea„, becoming exhausted, they found it would become nece^iy to go further back for their supply of logs, and to provide some means of transporting them to the bay. SOUTH BAY R. B. AND LAND I In 1875 they, in company with two other gentleman incorporated the South Bay Railroad and Land Company, and built the South Bay Railroad from the bay up Salmon Creek, D. R. Jones & Co. holding half the stork This was the first steam railroad introduced in the county. The rolling Btock consisted of one large Baldwin locomotive and several cars. In 1878, the old sash mill being pretty well worn out, it was found nee essary either to make very extensive repairs on it or build a new mill. They finally decided to build a new mill, so the old one was torn down and a fine new one was built on the same site, having all the latest improvements and saw-mill machinery, and a cutting capacity of 50,000 feet of lumber per day. HUMBOLDT LOGGING RAILWAY CO. In 1880, all their timber on Salmon Creek became exhausted, and they moved the South Bay Railroad to Fresh Water Creek changing the name also to the Humboldt Logging Railway Company, but the stockholders remained the same. In the early part of this spring (1882), D. R. Jones & Co. bought the entire stock of the company, making them the sole owners of the road, and they immediately set to work to extend the road and increase the capacity. The road is now about seven miles long, and the rolling stock consists of two large locomotives and twenty-eight cars. IMMENSE LUMBER OPERATIONS. They expect to haul this year (1882), about 20,000.000 to 25,000,000 feet of logs. In one year D. R. Jones & Co. sawed and shipped to San Francisco and various foreign markets 20,000,000 feet of redwood lumber and shingles, valued at over a quarter of a m.lhon dollars During the year they will employ about 250 men in the various branches of their business. Besides the two large saw-mills and the railroad they own abont 11,000 acres of timber land, the tug-boat Lillie Jones, employed in towing rafts vessels, etc., on the bay, and the controlling interest* in several fine sailing vessels, employed principally in the coasting trade Among the several vessels which they have built and own is the barkentine Eureka, one of the finest vessels on the coast- she is now in the trade between San Francisco and Honolulu. At present they are building a fine, large three masted schooner at their mill on Indian Island.

BIOGRAPHY OF DAVID R. JONES. DAVID R. JONES. Dav nes was born May 31, 1820, in Montgomeryshire, North Wales. He was one of five children, two girls and three hoys. His younger brother died when about ten years old, and soon after his mother also died. The family being broken, home was no more "what it used to be." ' time after hi mother's death his father married his second wife. At the age of nineteen Mr. Jones started for America, on the bark Caledonian, arriving in New York, where he met his eldest sister, who had arrived there some time before. II. ii he engaged with a Mr. McCormick, to learn the carpen1 l trade, and foi whom he worked about seven years. In 1847 he started from New York for New Orleans, going through Albany, Utica, Buffalo, Pittsburg, Cincinnati and several other principal cities, at some of which he remained a borfc lime, but finally arrived at New Orleans, where, during the great cholera plague, he also contracted the disease, and for Mime time his life was despaired of, but after a while he began to recover and was advised to take a sea trip to repair bis broken health. In the hope of fully regaining his health, he embarked on a sailing vessel for New York, where his sister was living, besides a great many friends. During the voyage they encountered a succession of heavy storms, and when the vessel was about a month overdue and not appearing, she was given up for lost with all on board, and Mr. Junes' funeral sermon was preached in New York, in the church of which he was a regular attendant during his residence there. After being out forty-eight days on the passage, the vessel, with all on board, arrived in New York on a Sunday, and Mr. Jones surprised his sister and friends by walking into church just as the services begun, where his funeral sermon had been preached the week previous. Remaining in New York a short while, and having fully recovered his health, he again went to New Orleans, where he remained until the winter af 1849. D. R. JONES ARRIVES IN SAN FRANCISCO. He, like many others, hearing of the gold excitement in California, determined to seek his fortune there also. He took passage at New Orleans on the steamer Ohio for Chagres, and there weut by boat some distance up the Chagres River' and then on foot traveled the balance of the way across the' isthmus to Panama, where he expected to take the steamer which was about to sail for San Francisco. But the steamer having all the passengers she could carry, he had to wait in Panama about three weeks, when a small brig was chartered to take a large number of passengers that were waiting for an opportunity to get to California. Taking passage on the little brig, he arrived in March, 1850. in San Francisco, after a pleasant voyage of about forty-five days. When he arrived there he engaged as a carpenter, at S16.00 per day, to help build a steamer that was to run between San Francisco and Sacramento. VISIT TO THE KLAMATH MINES. After working a while at his trade, he, like many others, got the gold fever; and a few days after the great fire in San Francisco, of May, 1850, by which nearly the whole city was destroyed, he started on the schooner Laura Virginia for Humboldt Bay, which had just been discovered, bound for the Klamath mines; but when a few miles outside of the Golden Gate, and during the night, the vessel struck on Duxberry Reef, where she laid hard and fast on the rocks until the next morning, floating off at high tide. Leaking very badly, the Captain decided to return to San Francisco for repairs. After some hard work at the pumps to keep the vessel free, they succeeded in getting back to San Francisco. He started again for Humboldt Bay on the brig Reindeer Captain Batchelder; and after a very rough trip they arrived about the first of June, 1850, in the bay, and landed at what was then known as Humboldt City, situated at the Humboldt Point, opposite the entrance to the bay. This city is now almost entirely destroyed, only one house remaining, which is still owned by Capt, H. H. Buhne, the discoverer of Humboldt Bay. At this time there were no houses where Eureka now stands. Mr. Jones celebrated the Fourth of July, 1850 on the spot where the city of Eureka now stands. Shortly after he started for the Klamath mines, where he remained only a few months, as the Indians were very troublesome. Having several fights with the Indians, he became disgusted, and with his little bag of gold, which he dug while there, returned by way of Humboldt Bay to San Francisco, arriving there in the fall of the same year. CHURCHES OF SAN FRANCISCO IN 1851. He again resumed his trade— house-building and contracting. Early in the year 1851, he built himself a small residence in the city, which was destroyed by the great fire of May 4, 1851. During the same year, among other buildings, he built the First Presbyterian Church, on Stockton Street, between Jackson and Pacific, and the Welsh Presbyterian Church on Vallejo Street, between Kearny and Dupont. In 1852 he married Miss Ann Williams, who afterwards died in Eureka, in 1875, and by whom he had five children three girls and two boys, all of whom are still living. In 1881 the eldest daughter, May Jane, married Mr. Z. U. Dodge, of oan .brancisco. ' Mr. Jones continued to work at his trade until 1853, when he, in company with others, purchased a email saw-mill for mm. in San Mateo County, which they run until 1858, when the m,l was totally destroyed by flre; but notwithstanding the unsfortune, they immediately rebuilt the mill and continued to run it nntil 1860, when Mr. Jones sold ont and returned to Eureka, Humboldt Bay, where he still lives, and is identified with most of the principal enterprises of the city He is one of the founders of the Humboldt Connty Bank, and for several years has been one of its Directors

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MAN'UFACTCRIXG INTEREST OF HUMBOLDT. US Manufacturing Business of the County. BT7MB0LDT is quite a manufacturing community. Be the manufacture of lumber there arc everal other indu The Stamdard says; " Ship-building is becomipg one <.f the="" important="" industries="" during="" year="" one="" teamerand="" schooners="" have="" been="" launched="" erom="" ways="" into="" waters="" of="" harbors="" ami="" several="" others="" are="" now="" on="" stock="" in="" procesa="" construction="" while="" contemplated.="" there="" arc="" live="" ship-yards="" vicinity="" eureka.="" oregon="" pine="" as="" it="" is="" called="" very="" valuable="" for="" ship-building="" preferred="" indeed="" to="" article="" found="" higher="" latitudes.="" material="" here="" abundance="" such="" long="" timber="" saw-inills="" lumber="" etc.="" conducting="" this="" business="" extensively.="" h.="" d.="" bcndixon="" whose="" yard="" near="" government="" lighthouse="" has="" built="" more="" vessels="" than="" any="" man="" county.="" k1kst="" steamer="" constructed.="" first="" over="" humboldt="" bay="" was="" by="" messrs.="" allen="" co.="" l854="" named="" glide="" and="" eureka="" areata="" trade.="" fare="" dollar="" each="" way="" until="" july="" when="" will="" be="" two="" dollars.="" including="" nearly="" completed="" constructed="" seventy-nine="" follows:="" sixty-three="" three="" stern-wheel="" steamers="" propellers="" barken="" tines="" brigs="" scow="" tug.="" schooner="" joseph="" russ.="" russ="" from="" cousin="" ship-yard="" craft="" a="" three-master="" with="" capacity="" carrying="" feet="" lumber.="" dimensions="" feot="" keel="" ten="" depth="" hold="" beam.="" cost="" she="" loaded="" some="" redwood="" sailed="" san="" diego.="" largest="" sized="" going="" out="" harbor="" pride="" her="" builders="" owner.="" enterprise="" who="" witnessed="" launching="" says:="" we="" noticed="" pleasant="" countenance="" hon.="" after="" whom="" vessel="" standing="" upon="" forecastle="" deck="" looking="" calm="" composed="" sea-faring="" sixty.="" time="" workmen="" were="" busily="" engaged="" knocking="" wedges="" under="" suddenly="" without="" moment="" warning="" gave="" slight="" shock="" then="" began="" move="" slowly="" aud="" beautifully="" down="" water="" amid="" cheers="" admiring="" crowd.="" made="" movement="" mr.="" stepped="" bow="" performed="" usual="" ceremony="" breaking="" bottle.="" about="" six="" months="" course="" continually="" supervision="" cousins="" well-known="" ship="" builder.="" certainly="" model="" beauty="" line="" having="" all="" features="" that="" could="" combined="" form="" durability.="" john="" vantks="" harkentisf..="" lharlee="" hurry="" venal="" kind="" ever="" california="" vance="" fog.="" december="" times="" thus="" describes="" ching.="" high="" tide="" approach="" seel="" wed="" up="" finally="" last="" block="" knocked="" barkentirie="" i="" water.="">■•■ instant tin ted and she dipped into tin v. with a splash end then Boated out inl i The voices di the people on shore and on board joined in an uproarious i bo the successful launch. " Miss Maggie Graham dashed a botl 'the bows and christened hei '. nek John. " The vessel is owned by Mr. John Vane- and the name given her is a sobriquet by which Mr. Vance is known among his many employes and others, as welf. The Uncle John was built by Mr. Blurry, a veteran ship-builder. Captain Manson will bo the commander. The dimensions are: Length, over all. 150 feet; breadth of beam, thirt.y-four feet and depth of hold ten and a half feet. The cegistereJ bonna 39 I tons and the capacity 430,000 feet of lumber. She is a beautiful craft, the prettiest ever launched in Humboldt waters. She is a staunch vessel, and will be a serviceable ship, being constructed of timber from Mr. Vance's own land, and selected by him and mostly sawed at his mills. FLOURING MILLS. The first flouring mill was erected in September 1854, on a tributary of the Van Duseu fork, by Messrs. Corwine, Burtow and Price. The mill was swept away by high water in September 1856. The Humboldt Flouring Mill, owned by William R. Duff, was completed in September 1854, at Eureka, and began turning out 6fty barrels of flour per day. J. A. Kleiser established a flouring mill in Hoopa Valley in 1855. There are four flouring mills in the county, each with only two run of stone. They do a good deal of custom work, and in 1880 turned out about 3.000 barrels of flour. W [LLOW- W A R E FACTO R Y . There exists a thrifty and rapidly-expanding business of willow-ware manufacture by the Geandrot Brothers. No better article than they make in tills department of skilled labor can be found in the State, an 1 its ready sale in local and San Francisco markets Is only limited by their ability to supply them. Their wares are made from a variety of willow imported expressly for their special use, of which they have many acres in cultivation, and of as perfect growth of twig as can be found in any of the fine nurseries of the southern portion of Europe.

140 THE VARIOUS MANCFACTURIXG^ENTERES^ LEATHER AND TANNERIES. Mr Thomas Devlin has a tannery at Areata where a good article of leather » manufactured, but on a small scale, and one totally incommensurate with the facilities at hand. He uses about 100 tons of bark a year. He supplies the local dealers with a considerable portion of their stock. Mr. Devlin deserves great credit for his energy and enterprise in starting and developing this busineeB, thus demonstrating that it can be successfully carried on and become a large business. There is no earthly reason why ono of the largest and most successful tanneries in the country should not be in operation at Areata and other points, unless the timidity of capital and the failure of its possessors to appreciate great advantages may be assigned for reasons. There are only two tanneries in operation in the county. The one at Eureka uses about twenty tons of bark per year. CANNING OF SALMON. There are four canneries on Eel River, where are annually put up large quantities of salmon in cans. Cutting & Co. have the largest establishment with a capacity of 200 cases per day. In 1880 the number of cases put up amounted to 3,000. They employ sixty hands, mostly Chinamen. Messrs. Swett & Adams do quite an extensive business in salting and smoking salmon. Their cooper-shops and salting and smoking building is 100x30 feet with a warehouse attached (50x30. They make their own barrels, employing during the season from twelve to eighteen men— white labor exclusively—paying their hands from thirty to thirty-five dollars per month. They have thirty-three large tanks with a capacity of salting 700 barrels. As soon as the " run of fish " commences the news travels round, and in a day or two the non-quiet river banks are lined with men and dotted with tents and brush and clapboard shanties. Two or three hundred men find employment during the season. SEAL AND SHARK FISHERIES. In 1878 Captain Stephen Smith carried on the business of seal fishing near Cape Mendocino, quite extensively. The taking of these animals is confined to the shelves and benches on the seaward side of Cape Rock. The benches fall in succession to the water, on which is the grand parade ground of the sea-lions. The oil averages to the producer about fifty cents to the gallon. From ten to thirty gallons are obtained from a sine lo fish. The bulls weigh from 1,000 to 3,000 pounds. The cows from 500 to 1,000 pounds. The rocks upon which the seals display themselves are covered with hair from their sheddine coats. The operation of taking sea-lions and rendering the oil is not only laborious but is attended with much exposure and danger. The fisheries of Humboldt County are assuming greater proportions each year. Salmon swarm in all our streams with the first winter rains. Large amounts of salmon are shipped fresh to San Francisco, as well as halibut and flounders. VARIOUS MANUFACTORIES. The Lincoln Mills were lately established. Mouldings and doorsaremadeat the mill and shipped to Australia, via steamer to San Francisco and sailing vessels across the ocean. On every trip the steamer Humboldt carries away large quantities of the manufactures from this mill. The moulding is made from refuse lumber, obtained with little expense from the lumber mills in the county. The Lincoln millshipped.in 1881, to Australia, via San Francisco, 1,035,417 feet of mouldings and 4,029 doors, manufactured from redwood lumber. About 200,000 feet of moulding and a large number of doors made by this mill have been used in this county. The manufacture of furniture has grown to be quite an important industry. This company had to build furniture warerooms, dry-house, steam chest, buy necessary wood for manufacture, and work the same up into furniture, and yet with four hands at work the firm has made cash sales, during the six months mentioned, to the sum of nearly $5,000, besides have several thousand dollars' worth of goods on hand. The moulding business and ornamental house finish enter as large items in their trade. Mr. J. P. McKenna, the Manager and Superintendent of the Humboldt Pork Packing Company, furnishes the following statement of the business done at that company's works from January 1, 1880 to January 1, 1881. Number of hogs killed) 2,416. They shipped the following: 138 barrels lard, 143 kegs pigs feet, 26 kegs pigs tongue, 296 barrels pickled pork, 227 cases bacon, 62 cases hams, 5 cases shoulders; amounting to 225,175 pounds. The above is intended to show the amount shipped from the county. It is safe to say that this institution has handled and sold over 400,000 pounds of pork. The manufacture of tan-bark is likely to prove a large business. About five years ago some attention began to be given to this business. John M. Sass built a bark mill on his place, on Kneeland Prairie, and engaged in the business of cutting, grinding and shipping. The chestnut oak is considered the best for tan-bark. It grows in quite large forests in this county. It is estimated that there are from fifteen to twenty thousand acres and the localities in the neighborhood of Trinidad and Upper Eel River, the Mattole region and Kneeland Prairie. The tan-bark made on the Pacific Coast is considered the best in the United States, as a better quality of leather can be made from it. There are about 28,000 cords of tan-bark used in California each year, of which amount San Francisco requires 16,000 cords. There are several breweries which manufactured some 25,000 gallons of beer in 1880, and the usual number of small manufacturers, of which we have no reports.

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PROGRESS AND PROSPERITY OF THE COUNTY. 147 Rapid Increase in Prosperity. Real and Personal Property, Rates of Taxation, Progress of the County, Increase in Population, Etc. OF TWENTY YEARS. Date. 1855-54 1854-55 ■ 1867 58 0 1880-61 Kind of Property. iToUlValuatnj Jj£ Real E«Ute and Improvement* $199,785 Personal Property 1888-84 1804-05 1S05--,-iv Personal 953,oab Real Estate 407,966 Improvements **° '^. , Phonal 899,815 18C9-70 1870-71 1871 -72 187,161 1,068,908 1,809,601 1,366,361 1.129,265 1,102,265 1,383,694 1,705,053 1,661,540 81.10 1.50 1.60 1.70 1.10 1.57 1872-73 1873-74 1874-75 1S75-76 1876-77 1877-78 1876-79 1879-SO RealEfltate *50,950 Improvements •i_ •", TPereonal 872,427 Real Estate ?W"I2 Improvements 425,645 Pergonal I,0b6,lto5 Real Estate 645.250 Improvements 456,170 Personal 1,103,120 Real Estate I2S*2sn Improvements 499,450 Pergonal 1,246.486 Real Estate 1.802.87J S=^.:::::::::::::::::::2i?8:H?S Personal. Real Estate 1.741.802 Improvements V^'nr7 Personal 1.346,0b7 Real Estate 1.707,004 Improvements J*,4 o Personal l,9aO,71S Real Estate UgMHj Improvements 859,770 Personal --1W'H* Real Estate 2,247,759 SKE^.::::::::::::::::::: MS!S estate and personal property in the county from it. organization down to the present date, as also the rate of taxation. A large amount of land is unoccupied or untaxed.as may be seen In the table of ■' Comparative Sizes of Counties," on page .6 : 1,691,757 2,071,690 2,264,540 2,532,911 4,803,707 3,844,100 4,416,197 4,894,310 Real Estate 2,379,9% Improvements I'JSMS Pergonal I.o94,099 Real Estate 2,700,826] Improvements ',-«=--,> Personal l.bOS.ool, Real Estate 2,696,931; Improvements .196,630 Personal I.oU.l/i 4,961,657 5,118,757 .96 2.37 2, '20 2.10 2.40 2.46 2.33 2.33 2.50 2.46 1.97 1.90 2.17 2.20 2.30 2.25 1SS0-S1 1881-82 Real Estate 3^,564 Real Estate Improvements [Personal 3,284,779 1,233,051 . 1,721,622 5,481,546 5,407,732 6,604,161 6,239,452 2.25 2.25 2.00 2.00

148 STEADY INCREASE OF WEALTH AND PROSPERITY. ASSESSMENT ROLL OF 1853-4. The following interesting article on the assessment of 1853-4 is taken from the Times. It was the first assessment made in the county. A little blank book not much more than six inches square an.l half an inch thick, on file in the office of the County Clerk, contains the duplicate assessment roll of Humboldt County for the fiscal year 1853-54. The County Assessor at that time was D. D. Williams. He received 810 per day and was employed but little over two months in making the assessment. The assessment was under the direction of the Court of Sessions, at that time performing functions similar to those now vested in tho Board of Supervisors. The late Judge J. E. Wyman was presiding Judge of the Court at that time. Lewis K. Wood was Clerk of the Court and ex-officio Auditor. Tho total assessment roll was S582.560, about one-tenth of present assessment. The largest tax-payer was the Eureka Mill Company, whose property was valued at §110,000. Bowles, Bowles & Codington were heavy merchants of TJniontown, and built tho store now occupied by A. Brizard. Their assessment was $8,150. Mr. Bowles became a large property owner, and a plateau near Areata is called Bowies' Prairie to the present time. C. S. Ricks & Co. were estimated by Assessor Williams to be worth $0,700, and were assessed accordingly. Roskill & Co. were a heavy firm at that time, being assessed for §15,000. William Roberts was considered one of the rich men, his property being valued at $7,400. John A. Kneeland, from whom Kneeland's Prairie was named, owned property valued at $5,050. Wiley, Mills & Co. were proprietors of the American Hotel, Uniontown, which was assessed for $1,600. Mr. Wiley has continued a citizen of the same town ever since, and in 1881 conducted the weekly newspaper at Areata. Among those who are at present blessed with large shares of this world's goods a few were here twenty years ago and were not in as affluent circumstances as at the present time. Joseph Russ kept a butcher shop in partnership with Mr. Adams. The firm was assessed at $1,000. The firm of John Vance & Co. was assessed at $1,600. Jonathan Clark's belongings were valued at $3,100. It is amusing to compare this little note-book with the three large-sized volumes necessary for the enrollments of the assessments of 1880-81, and interesting to note by a glance at the pages of each how some have been favored, and from small beginnings have become proprietors of great landed tracts or owners of saw-mills, sawing logs into money for them. A great many whose names are on the little book have crossed the last river to the land where in the great book the good and evil actions of each one in this world is assessed at the proper valuation. POPULATION AND INCREASE. In 1852 the population of Trinity County, before Humboldt was taken off, was 1,764. Klamath, before Del Norte was formed from it, 530. In 1860 Klamath was 1,803, Del Norte 2,022, Humboldt 2,694. In 1870 Klamath was 1,686, Del Norte 2,022, Humboldt 6,140. In 1880 Del Norte 2,499. Increase in ten years, 628. Humboldt 15,515, an increase of 9,375. But it must be borne in mind that part of this large increase came from the territory of Klamath, annexed during the time. The county has steadily advanced in wealth and prosperity, and will compare favorably with any of the rural counties in the State. FINANCIAL CONDITION OF THE COUNTY. It will be seen from the following statement, prepared for us by the County Treasurer, L. T. Kinsey. that the funds of the county are in sound condition and the Treasurer's office ably managed. The receipts for the year ending December 1, 1881, were $246,183.13 Balance on hand Dec 1, 1880 28,946.45 Total receipts $275,129.58 Total disbursements for year 1881. $249,599.87 Balance on hand Dec. 1, 1881 $25,529.71 COUNTY DEBTS. The bonded debt of Humboldt County is given at $125,000, bearing nine" per cent, interest, which amounts to $11,250, payable annually. The bonds are known as wagon road bonds, and were issued under Acts of February 28, 1874, and February 12, and March 28, 1876, in the following amounts: — Wagon road bonds 1875 $60,000 1876 45,000 1877 10,000 1878 10,000 These bonds run for twenty years, but ten years from date the Supervisors begin to provide for their redemption by levying a tax of five per cent, of the whole amount of the bonds, increasing the levy for this purpose with each year until the bonds shall be canceled. When such tax shall be collected the bonds may be called and interest stopped. The bonds of 1875 were taken at $97.50 on the $100; and those issued under the act of 1876 brought all the way from par to $105.74, being issued in parcels. Besides these bonds there is a floating debt of $7,245.16, making the total debt of Humboldt County $132,245.16, less $2,996.30 available for payment of the debt. This leaves a debt of $29,248.86 to be provided for in the next sixteen years.

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THE KLAMATH AND TRINITY GOLD MINI 149 Mining in Humboldt CountyEarly Mining Scenes— Klamath and Trinity Mines— Gold Placers of Humboldt— The Gold Bluffs— Beach Mining, ELc. |,',,w of the early resident* of the county can have forgotten foe" gold bluff" excitement of L852, when, by nil acconnte, oM QCean lllm:l.|r turned miner and washed up cart-loads of gold on the beach above Trinidad. It was represented and generally believed that any enterprising man could take hi? httt and a wheelbarrow and in half an hour gather up gold enough to last him Eoi Life! Bui as shown in previousartie.es, tW8 excitement Led to the early settlement of the county. Placer mining is followed with Borne degree of success on the Klamath and Trinity Rivers, but gold digging is of nominal importance in comparison with agriculture. The Klamath River country north of the redwoods is the least i essible part of the county. H is more mountainous and contains the only parts of the county which are rocky. Ihe only mining in the county m here, and has been carried on since the early days of the gold excitement. Quart/, mining is now chiefly occupying attention, and valuable mines have recently been discovered. Hydraulic mining has been carried on to some extent; there are twenty-three miles of running ditches, .and, during 1880, 3,790 inches of water were used daily. This hydraulic mining meets with no such embarrassments as meet the industry in the Sierra Nevada. There are no bottom-land farms upon the Klamath to ho destroyed, so it has free scope for its operations A ..bench- claim at Big Bar, eight miles below Orleans, has been worked successfully by the the hydraulic process for 80me live years. This latter process. Judge J P. Haynes say i8 revolutionizing the old Klamath mining region. Pro pectin, has been directed more recently towards the high bai. a blhes on the Klamath, which the Judge says he be hev, to be one of the best mining regions in the State and one, oreover which has hardly been scratched for mining purparties who are content to pocket their own dividend Their ET in the ban. or the bar is not gazetted in the market. K SPLENDID UINWa DISTRICT. Orleans Bar, upon the Klamath, is known to many old The J»*« transversely through the """ ,, , A States Ton. Colorado, seems to terminate here mate enterprise. Mr.T. M. Brown. Sheriff of Humboldt County, has at Orleans Bar a claim g of 405 a. "k..f "In. not more than from forty to eighty feet deep, with a I dirt, from ten to thirty reel deep This is ■ claims in the State; el pr, of some five miles in length, and only about eighty feet i sure The water is conducted through an eight-inch pi] • this primitive way the claim pays from $8 to $10 per day to the man. . The beauty of this property is that the " aUckens,. which i such a ion question in some other portions of Califon cannot injure any one.as there are no farming land, to d, between here and the ocean. With an outlay of Bay 126.000 Can,,. Creek, winch is quite a stream, can be turned onto this property, which has a pressure of from L50 to 200 Eeet. Judging from a report we saw recently, made by a mining expert this must be an excellent property. Gold has been found in all part, of the county. Lately on Dobyn's Creek tine specimens of gold quartz were found indicating that somewhere on the streams or in those mountains there is gold to be found. This creek and some other small streams have in their beds small bits of quartz and gold-bearin. sand, and we learned that the colors had been found m many places and some gold but not in paying quantities. la best paying mines of the Trinity Section now being worked are at Scott's Bar. The largest piece of gold found on Scott River weighed 187 ounces, and was worth $18.74 per ounce, or S3 504.38. It was in the shape of a fish, seven inches long, and was found by James Lindsay and T. L. Wade. January 27. 1855. while running a cut into Whiting Hill. THE STARVATION TIMES. The starvation times on Salmon River forms qnite an interesting ehapter in the history of this region. So great was he fear of wintering 1b this comparatively unknown region t, a probably not half a hundred men were to be found on the stream in December of 1850. These had all provided themselves with an ample supply of provisions, and passed the winter very comfortably. As soon L it was supposed that the worst part ot the water had £1, miners began to Hock in from Trinity W"Ll Humboldt, and some came up Sacramento Krver and over through Scott Valley. This wes in the latter part of /alary and during the month of February 1851. Many of ll, especiaUy those from Trinidad and Humboldt, came llpr vld with supphes, expecting to find them on the nve, J knowing that there were pack-trains at those pornta preparing to bring in provision* The resuit was that, although I few small trams arrived with supplies, the protons were toon eaten up and there was a crowd of several thousand men without anything to eat. At this juncture, early in the month of March, a ternfic

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THE GOLD BLUFFS AND BEACH MINING. in and bo con, ■"*»» A • .., at all Those who I andwenthuntOnc man killed two grouse and each for them and he declined the trade Th. • J * whicl te of them were reduced ,.., ;i)1p1 for nearly a month not a pound of l 1 came to the lief FinaUj packers got as far as Orleans Bar, ^ „„,, win. bad madeatrail through th, snow took small pad on their shoulders and carried bhem over the mountains ,„ ,.,„.;, I;M ,. iog fronds. It was nearly the last of April before „ train of mules made its way clear through to Salmon, and ,,,„,„,;, „„, i heart) welcome. Hundreds of the miners who had been mowed in had made their way over the mountains, some i -leans Bar, some to Trinity, and others to Scott Bar and the urv.lv discovered mines at Yreka Flats, suffering terribly on the way, and at last reaching these places in a starving condition. GOLD PLACERS OF HUMBOLDT. There are thousands of millions of dollars in gold-dust lying waste along the ocean beach of Humboldt County. From Table Bluff to the Klamath River, a distance of sixty miles, is an almost unbroken gold-bearing sand beach, exclusive of Gold Bluff beach mining claims. This deposit has accumulated from the crumbling debris of the gravel banks that cave upon the beach and from the discharge of the Klamath River. The process is going on continually, and there is not a panful of sand along this whole distance but what will show the color, and in many places, where the action of the water has been just right* it is yellow with gold in streaks. There are more than a thousand acres of this gold-bearing sand between Table Bluff and Klamath River, unclaimed by any one. in fact is outside of the U. S. Survey. It contains from fifty cents upwards to as high as $100 to the ton. THE GOLD BLUFFS. John Chapman, Esq., is one of the fortunate owners and successful operators in the region of the Gold Bluff mines. A good idea of these mines may be formed from the illustration he has had made and inserted in this work. Gold Blutfs are situated on the beach twenty-three miles north of Trinidad and nine miles south of the mouth of Klamath River. In the early days of the wild gold excitement of California, Gold Bluffs was one of the notoriously rich placers. To-day it holds a quiet reputation as a steady paying property that nothing seems to affect. The amount of treasure that has been taken from the two claims runs into the millions, and still the deposit is no more exhausted than on the day it was discovered by the pioneer, E. Du Bertrand, of Trinidad. The gold-beariug gravel blurts extend about eight miles on the beach, and in many places they are a perpendicular wall of unbroken «n-avel three and four hundred feet high. Every winter. after the parching heat of summer has cracked the earth, the soaking rains of winter cause huge slabs of earth and gravel to cave and split off the perpendicular face of the bluff, millions of tons, falling upon the beach. At high tide the surf washes to the base of the cliff, which is subjected to incalculable washing and swashing during the heavy storms. The cakes of gravel become dissolved and are ground to pieces and carried about by the action of the water. BEACH MINING UNSUCCESSFUL. From time to time efforts have been made and considerable money invested in the attempt to save and secure the fine gold that is to be found in large quantities along the beach from Little River to Crescent City. The gold is very fine, a mere scale, and to separate it from the sand is just what has baffled the skill of all inventors. Many machines have been invented, which, it was claimed, would accomplish the desired result, but on a trial on the beach, each in their turn have proved failures. The last to try the experiment were W. W. Stow, Jr., Captain Harford, and others, and the machine used was Professor Plant's Gold Separator. After a good deal of prospecting and experimenting the field was abandoned. The beach for many miles is covered with layers of black sand in which the fine gold is found, and although the greater portion is taken up, it ■ could be obtained doubtless for a very small figure, and one which would pay a company largely if the machine could perform the required work. The parties who have been working the beach mine below Crescent City, known as the Lockhart Mine, have suspended operations, for the reason that they could not make it pay. In years past there has been a great amount of gold taken out in the vicinity of this claim, but there was always a difficulty in getting machinery that would save it, and in some instances almost as good prospects could be obtained from the tailings as from the sand that had been worked. The effect has usually been that southerly storms cast up great banks of sand, the gravel, mostly, finding some other place of deposit; while the heavy northerly winds which usually prevail at intervals during the summer, act upon this sandbeach like an immense gold pan in the hands of a skillful miner, washing off the gray sand, leaving the black sand containing the gold upon the beach. The weather and wind are carefully watched by the owners of these beaches, and when the gray sand begins to go out, that is the signal for active operations. The pack mules are driven up from the range, the men are re-engaged, and the sand is scraped together upon the beach as fast as it appears and packed up to the washing box and dumped in piles, to be washed out at leisure. The eight miles of gravel bluffs is at present owned by John Chapman and one other company, and it may be truthfully said that either one is a princely fortune.

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MANY OTHER VALUABLE METALS MBCOVERBD. 1*1 •iiii.-n-v 01 i HI This deposit has given rise to many erory one -holds the idea bhal at ©me re I the KlamtfehBiver discharged its waters into bl an ■' bhi with much apparent plausibility. Another theory is that it is foe former bed of the Trinity.and that the Klamath and Trinitv at one time had separate and distincl far as the present coast-line, A. few mile north of th. ont mouth of the Klamath is a distinctly marked Im o1 travel which hears as strong evidence of having 1 aafor r ri^erhed as does the Gold Bluff bion, and which e ad Wl^d and northward toward the Klamath Lake,, the sourt f foe Klamath River. This is said bo he the For t bed oi the Klamath, separate and distinct from the Trinity and thatthe latter river found its way into the ocean at Gold Bluff. This M Kravel bed has been a matter of specnlation among practical miners for many yea™. It ^ distinctly parked an m > defined for thirty-five or forty miles inland from the coast to lre it intersect, the present channel of the Tnmty Rivera LmUesabove its junction with the Klamath, ^prebmmary BUrvey was once made which proves that ^W^rsofth TJUy River can be brought on to the whole Ime of the ~J field. The millions of doUars that have been gathered Lm the sand beach at Gold Bluffs, which was first washed by ,f Lm the cr bling debris of bhe cliffs wuhou any pT^Uble diminution of the Bluffs, gives but a faint idea of ZSmensity and value of this v.t gold d *■»£ J ^ ^ ^ ** .s owned » En ^ he name of the mine. brought «f»' "^J^U. UP »»«*» * ^ The dam and oftar wo ^™ ^ the coinpany was frequently the case m such eutupn ^ ^ ea,eulati„g upon a ^"^^lavhj been made win^r rains came, washed o t h n * ^ ^^ ^ of soil with nothing to stay it, and improvements such as they were. ^ The works were -nstruee, m ; ^ _ 250 feet in length, tinmen ee , h.g ,a ^ ^ & ^ paeity of 80,000,000 cubrc fee. Th The h length, and at the P— ^ W ^ ^ ^ £eet sluice was composed ot sixty u ride, and six block, or ripple*, to the box. The omposmg the sluice, •** ach box; multipl kie baton ■»** on«.d n«rtheKl >-h ,,,.>■ „,,- ,1,:, hav, w„k over the gray s«d lying along beach have, *>■ raaoyf,il„, I «« I lh i U» gold 80 tl « I beeninve iaLdfield.failed twift8 Md golden d,i.d*n..ncoismorenoUccableas the distance from tl ' '""■ Thie^mingreg (fere an enconr^iog field for ft. |» , and scientific pro, tor, for the m« H "-,,< who „tah to take a prospector's el , *»*««! **» °f "";;: :;:';:';LrS that have *«-*£ M and their tributaries, are c dus-veev, '»»'h^' .•BUckBeai-isnottl ly rich gold bearmg quarte lode m thk T section. Tl I -' ** "*^ * and a eareful. patient and intclUg pros, t,ng wd) 1 g manv of them to light Coal was found on Mad River - early a- IBM but no paying veins were discovered. At a later date d was found on Eel River. At Point St. George, several yea*, ago, a shaft was sunk, and a good quality of coal ohtamed; for want o apit ft work was abandoned. It is similar t. al the coal on this coas^-lignite or brown; and as it does not occur m 2 carboniferous formation of the earth, it can hardly be Ct:r::thich is very nearly allied to coal, has been tonnd quite extensively in several places m the county. Ihx K ( ™L located was at Petrolia, which was m 180+. 11"^ S Z o tb with petroleum, that several gallons flowe from it daily. Some of the wells yielded several hundred bd of the crude article, but none of the wells turned out I X flowing ones. The production was slow an hunted aodth! busies not being considered very profitable was at ^oCttll-denned ledges has been discovered in the v \ f Lhe county When these mines were d,scovered south part of ftc ^ ^ for claims, everybody tb-e was a g,e. t oa . . ucce3sfully oper. igno bag the ruk t t ^ ^ ^^ ^ ate in copper mining, w mines; one is now -M ^ ^ fcy ^ s^ Xronore was d..seove™ ^^ ^^ ^^ Surveyor Mur^y o ^ ^ No ^^3 attempt9 ^rwml to develop them, ex.pt in Bel^orte County.

162 EARLY ECTSTORY OF THE KLAMATH INDIANS. Indians and Their Reservations. Klam.'fl- Indians— Names of Various Tribes — Indian Wars and Treaties— Their Disappearance— Indian Reservaion's — "War Claims, Etc. 'I'm Indian-, of the section, originally called Trinity County, we're estimated in 1854 at 10,0110, ami divided into several bands which were subdivided into numerous ranches of families. Their languages were divided into six general divisions: The 11"-// and PoUtarWOtt Co-niU occupied lower portions of Eel and Mad Rivera and the bay country. The To-lAck Si-H-qua ranged along the coast and the Klamath from Port Trinidad to Bluff Creek, a small stream eight miles above the conllueuce of the Klamath and Trinity and BOme sixty miles from the ocean. The Car-ruulc Ar-rah occupied a territory extending along up the Klamath some ninety miles, being bounded on the north by the Shasta. The No-l

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THE INDIAN WARS AND TREATIES. 168 William Little, who had stayed that nighl at a cabin a few miles distant, and had i om. see if Blackburn bad any extra arm . ac thej I l»y the Indians, Blackburn made hie appearance from the house and greeted them with a -a I voice, Baying, " Urn -lad to see .you buys ; they are all killed hut myself and wife." When he had ferried them across the bream they went to examine bhi Rcene of conflict' SAD MEETING OF PATHBB AND BO Th «y saw a body lying about LOO yards from the house and hastened to the spot. When the body of the -lead man was tinned so that they could see his face, Blackburn prang back with the cry, "Great God I it is my father," and bo it was, killed by heartless Bavages in Bight of the cabin of hi on, whom he had not seen for ten years. The old gentleman had accompanied a pack-train from Trinidad, and when they encamped that night some ten miles from the ferry, he had pushed on alone, and had fallen before the knives of the Indians that lay concealed in the forest, awaiting the time for the attack upon the cabin. The- three men volunteered to push through to Trinidad for assistance, to administer to the Indians a chastisement they would not soon forget, while Blackburn and his dauntless wife remained on guard at the cabin. They lost the trail in the darkness and lay all night in the redwood forest, until daylight enabled them to again find the trail and push on for help Arriving at Trinidad the next day, they were joined by only ten men, and the little party of thirteen started back to the ferry to attack at least three hundred savages. A number of miles above Trinidad lies a body of water on the low land between the mountains and the sea, known as the Big Lagoon. When the party arrived at this point they camo upon a number of Redwood Creek Indians in canoes, whom they decided to attack. They therefore fired upon the canoes, when the savages jumped into the water and swam ashore. A brisk battle was maintained for some time, tbe men using their animals for protection. The superiority of -uns over bows was soon demonstrated, and the Indians withdrew with the loss of two or three braves. The party continued the contest, and going on up the river, located Happy Camp, as heretofore related. MCKEE'S INDIAN TREATIES. In 1861 the Government appointed three Commissioners of Indian affairs in California, with instructions to make treaties with all the tribes in the State. They were Col. G. W. Barber, of Kentucky, Dr. O. it Wozencraft, of California, and Colonel Reddic McKee, of Virginia. They divided the State into three districts, Southern, Sacramento, and Klamath. Barber talcing the first, Wozencraft the second, and McKee coming into this section. They made treaties right and left, promisenough in the way of blankets, cattle, etc^ to have swamped the v.! anient IffcK same up the Klamath in 1852 and many amusing stories are told of him and Se was a Belf-important man, o impress the [ndians with official dignify, and to i < hi in I bal wore a flaming . uinary garment Indian heart and the focus of every Indian eye whenever its r appeared ity was eon. ludi d in due time, the consideration to the Indian? for the relinquishmenl of their claim to the landc i ul idi of the strip set aparl for a reservation being 200 head of cattle. It is a custom among the aborigines to exchange pit upon the conclusion of a treaty, and old Tolo, one of the chiefs, set his heart upon the envied vest. He could scan i Ij restrain his impatience to Bign the document, and when he had affixed In cross he tuned eagerly to the agenl threw off hia upper vestment, and exclaimed. "Me take urn vest." "What for?" asked the astonished official. " Me sign um treaty, you make me present. Me take urn vest." McKee did not relish the idea of exchanging his badge of authority for the dirty and he feared otherwise objectionable garment of the chief, and so he said,"I give you my name and vou give me yours. You be McKee and 1 be Tolo." The chief consented to take the name, though he preferred the vest, and was thereafter known aa McKee. The had faith which has characterized the dealings of the Government with " the nation's wards" was not wanting in this instance. The promised cattle did not appear. The whites invaded and occupied the reservation as well as the ceded territory, while young McKee went into the ranching business in Scott Valley. No wonder the Indians became dissatisfied, and no wonder they should have little faith in any promises made to them in the future. THE INDIAN WAR. The Indian war, if it can be properly so termed, was brought on by the whites, under the most aggravated circumstances. The facts are, as we are informed, says the Times of 1855, that about the 10th of December, 1854, a ruffian attempted to commit an outrage upon the person of an Indian woman, who was accompanied by an Indian boy. The woman clung to the boy and the white man drew his revolver and shot the boy down, who afterwards died from the wound. The man after bullying around for sometime, left for parts unknown.. The Indians thinking to get revenge, killed an ox that had formerly belonged to this man, but learning that he had sold it. they offered to pay the present owner the value of the steer, which was refused. The Indians became frightened and by their conduct filled the minds of the miners with suspicion, they attempted to

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UA THE INDIAN WARS ACT TREATIES. disarm paying the value of the arms; and upon ader them the miners proceeded to .ches with their winter's supply of provis Which they defendd by killing the whites engaged in so doing. INDIA I I AIMS. A I. , - .i..n ..f •!„: L.-gi h ■ in 1»56 an act was passed l emoi of tlir State to appoint two Commisroine all claims held by citizens of Klamath, Sis|; ,iiii:iii(| Huroboldt Counties for services rendered and for upplie i i bed in the suppression of Indian hostilities in ,,„, v,,u ,0f [852, 1853, L854and 1855. I „ pu, Uancc of this act, Governor Johnson appointed E. J. ,;,„,, ,,| Siskiyou County, and Walter McDonald, of Klam;)lll ;1 ucn Commissioners. Mr. Curtis subsequently resigned and A M. Jones, of Siskiyou, was appointed to fill the vacancy thus caused. Each Commissioner was to receive 83,000 as compensation for discharging their duties INDIAN TREATY. In August, 1857, Major Heintzelman succeeded in getting into Council the head men of the Klamaths with the Copas, Honags, Sougatucks and Talawas, which he had recently removed on to the reservation, at which time a treaty was made in whirl, they agreed to bury all animosities that have heretofore existed between them— to live together in peace and submit any difficulties that may arise between them to the officer in charge of the reserve for settlement. WHY INDIANS DISAPPEAR BEFORE THE WHITES. The rancheria on Indian. Island was attacked on Saturday night, February 20, I860, by an unknown party of men, and, with the exception of three or four that escaped, the whole tribe, with many Mad River Indians stopping there, were killed. It may be well imagined that this unexpected attack on the Diggers so near town, says the Times, accompanied with such a terrible and indiscriminate slaughter, produced considerable excitement. In the midst of it, news reached town that the ranches on South Beach had also been attacked the same night, and the whole number of Diggers there extermin. ated. It was afterward reported that a considerable number of Indians on Eel River were killed at the same time. The ranches at Bucksport and on Elk River were not disturbed. As there were only squaws and children at these places, except two old bucks, it would seem that the design at first was only to kill the bucks. The killing appears to have been principally with knives and hatchets or axes. The whole number killed at the different places on that night did not fall far below one hundred and fifty, including bucks, squaws and children. Three days before, a large ranch of Indians above Eagle Prairie, on Eel River, was attacked, and twenty-six Diggers killed, mostly bucks, and among them some that were known to be desperate villains. The next day another ranch opposite -The Slide" was attacked, but we did not learn how many were killed or taken. GRAND JURY REPORT. Some effort was made by the authorities to punish the perpetrators of these murders. The following report of the Grand Jury, in April, I860, shows no one was punished: "We cannot close our report without commenting upon the massacre of Indian women and children lately committed in this county. We have endeavored, by summoning before us a number of citizens of this county whom we supposed could give us some information, to enable us to bring to trial the persons engaged in this revolting crime; and after a strict examination of all the witnesses, nothing was elicited to enlighten us as to the perpetrators. We would express our condemnation of the outrage, and regret our investigations of this matter have met with so deplorable a result." D. Mjvsten, Foreman. J. Ross Browne, in speaking of these Indian troubles, says: " I am satisfied, from an acquaintance of eleven years with the Indians, that had the least care been taken of them, these disgraceful massacres would never have occurred. A more inoffensive and harmless race of beings does not exist on the face of the earth, but wherever they attempted to procure a subsistence they were hunted down; driven from the reservations from the instinct of self-preservation ; shot down by the settlers upon the most frivolous pretexts, and abandoned to their fate by the only power that could afford them protection." The massacre of Indians still continued, and in February, 1861, thirty-nine Diggers were killed by the settlers on main Eel River, above the crossing of the old Sonoma trail. It seems that the few settlers at Kentinsbaw, at the beginning of winter, in order to avoid danger to their stock from snow, moved down on main Eel River at the point mentioned. Not long after some of them returned to look after their houses, etc., and found that the Indians had destroyed all of them, Thereupon a company started in pursuit of the offenders, taking along some friendly Indians to assist them. They found the band that committed the damages and killed the above number of males. Of course the Indians retaliated as best they could, and the settlers were driven from the interior. It was estimated that 9,000 head of cattle were killed by Indians. Another war was inaugurated, in which the local volunteers participated. For many years the Indians in this State were abused and defrauded of their natural rights, and sometimes cheated out of Government bounties. Their domestic happiness was disturbed, by lawless adventurers, and they were driven from their favorite fishing-grounds and hunting-places, under a pretense of Indian hostilities, when the primary object was to get possession of choice locations, and incidentally make money out of the Government pending disturbances.

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KLAMATH AM) HOOPA RESERVATION'S These encroachmentfl upon the natural rights of the In. Hans aroused their • I Norte County;, and the Tide in the southeastern part of the State. The last two were leased from settlers, Congress in July, 1808, authorized the abandonment of the Smith River [ndian farm and the removal of the Indians to the I loupa Valley Reservation in Humboldt County. The route from tho former to the latter place is by a devious mountain trail, probably the most dilKcult on the Pacific Coast to travel or drive stock over. There were many rivers and mountain streams to cross, ami a portion of the way led along the sea beach, utterly impassable except at low title and in moderate weather. The first twenty miles only, from Smith River to the foot of the first range of mountains, had ever been traveled with wagons. The entire distance from there to Hoopa was but a serpentine trail through mountain fastnesses, deep gorges, and over rocky cliffs. JOHN CHAPMAN, THE MOUNTAINEER. John Chapman, of Humboldt County, was employed, an experienced mountaineer, well acquainted with the route, with the crossings, and with the various tribes of Indians, through whose country they were obliged to pass He acted as special Indian Agent or conductor in the matter of removal of Indians and stock. He was a good interpreter, an experienced guide, and packer. He furnished a train of pack mules and several practical packers. It was found no easy task to move Indians, cattle, horses, colts, and a pack-mule train, all at the same time, over a narrow mountain trail ; consequently, Mr. Chapman, Henry Orman, Jr., the Agent at Smith River, and B. C. Whiting, Superintendent were frequently separated, each having about as much responsibility as a division commander. The sick and blind Indians, (thirty-eight in number,) besides a portion of the baggage, were hauled from Smith River to the foot of the mountains, in wagons. This was about twenty miles, and as far as wagons could go ; from thence to the Klamath River (a distance cf twenty -four miles) the sick were carried in boxes, packed on each side of a mule, as Californians carry smoked bacon or salmon. ■ ii the monl Klamath the sick were taken in Incanoeanptl junction with tl and then up the Trinity I l

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ASCRIPTION OF THE Tm^A^mi^^ The Towns and Villages. Description of Each Village- When and by Whom Settled-Rapid GrowthPresent Condition, Etc. ,„ l:|.,; „„. V(,„ L851 the population of the county did no res e much, if any. the speculative population leaving about , ;, ,, theinduatrial « in- Business languished mall .... , cepb Areata, whichcarriedonflietradewiththenunea witl| ni.ilniimil„,l rigor. In the year 1852 the population increased rapidly, bue an iahed, and everything wore an ;ii|. o£ proaperi1 v The trade with the mining increased, agriculture was pr uted with vigor and success in all parts ot the. Qty, and the lumbering business increased rapidly^ AJbh0 h Bpeculation was the arte of the day, yet the different towns imi liately commenced such industrial pursuits as 8flem6d lfl08t aatura, for it. Union and Humboldt both opened ,,,,,!,- to the mines, and Eureka commenced shipping piles and lilIlll(,, ttnd before the close of the year quite a number of ,,„._ 0f these materials had been sent to San Francisco from the sloughs in her vicinity. II ther two towns made strenuous efforts to build up a brade with the mines, but in the case of Humboldt Point, was ^ucceasful, trains invariably leaving and going to Areata whenever there was no inducement held out to them to go to the former place, and in July, 185.1, the last train left Humboldt Point for the mines, and since that time Areata has enjoyed that monopoly almost alone. BUCKSPORT. Bucksport was laid out in 1851. by the lamented David A. Buck. It immediately took a position in the ranks of the then rival towns of the Bay. In 1854 the Masons erected a handBome hall, two-story, with school room on the first floor. Dr. .1. , Hark erected a handsome residence fronting directly on the Bay. At this time the four towns of the Bay were Bucksport, Humboldt, Eureka, and Union. The first three had one store each and Union seven large stores. Bucksport was made the port of entry, and in 1S56 contained a church, two hotels, saw-mill, store and private residences. Fort Humboldt was erected on a bluff in the rear of the town site, commanding a view of the entrance to the Harbor. HUMBOLDT POINT. Early in the year 1S50 it was the general impression that Trinity River emptied into the ocean and formed a bay at its mouth, and as the mines on that river were reported to be amazingly rich, it was but reasonable to suppose that if any man could find this bay and lay out a town on it he could make his fortune by selling lots; and as it was the time when :he Speculative mania was at the meridian o Me m California. here was no lack of men who were ready to embark their •vis and property on a perilous voyage of discovery for the chance of becoming city proprietors, and consequently .ich. In January, 1850, several vessels were fitted out in San Francisco for the purpose of exploring the coast and searching for the mouth of Trinity River, as mentioned by Buhne Howard and others. Humboldt Bay and the mouth of Eel River wer. both discovered soon afterwards, and the party which discovered the latter thought it was the mouth of Trinity, got their vessels into the bay at its mouth and prospected some distance up for gold. These adventurers soon explored the country contiguous to the bay, occupied Humboldt Point and laid it out in 1850 for a town site. Union was settled soon after, and Eureka sprang into existence soon after her; each place claimed a large tract of land for its site, and thus before autumn the whole margin of the bay was claimed as city property and a great portion of it actually surveyed and laid off into streets, blocks, etc. . TRINIDAD VILLAGE AND HARBOR. It is claimed by the residents of this place that this is the best outside port on this part of the Pacific Coast, and it appears they have good grounds for such claims. Its position on the coast certainly would be a most favorable one for a port of refuge. It is easy of access from the open sea at all times. Those w°ho have carefully watched the direction and break of the sea in heavy storms, assert that a break-water, extended from a certain point on Trinidad Head to what is known as Pilot Rock, would completely and effectually shelter the mooring of the harbor. Pilot Rock is over 300 feet across the base, and is 112 feet above high water. The whole length of break-water would be 2,600 feet, with an average depth from shore to rock of about seven to eight fathoms. This it is claimed, by those who have watched the action of the heavy sea for years, would be all that is necessary to make this a perfectly safe harbor in any and all storms. There are many reasons and arguments favorable to Trinidad being an available open seaport. She has depths of water at her moorings to accommodate the largest vessel that floats, and thirty feet of water at her wharf at low tide. The cost of making a break-water would not be great, and the relative benefits which would accrue appear to be such as should justly bring about an early and serious consideration of this work. The tonnage of this port may be estimated at 7,000 tons for last year. The number of cargoes about forty. TRINIDAD EXPORTS IN LTJftEBER FOR 1881 : Lumber.feet 18,000,000 Posts 38,000 Shingles 8,000,000 Shakes 800,000 Wool, pounds 15,000

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DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWNS AND VILLA l.M Trinidad ifl about twenty miles above K.i reka I I of the extensive operation, of the Trinidad Mill Company r(1111I^,l „f Meeeie. Hooper Bros., of Stewart B B-ranciwo They have an extensive saw and shingle mill they also have a railroad, and do aU their log wlli,h is well worth the while to.ee; the log. are hauled to bho railroad track by a Monkey stationary engine, then by to eorootivetothemill.. The railroad i. four mile, long The town has 200 inhabitants, who are nearly all engaged m ,,,, lumber bumnese The Bteamer Mary D Uvm* makes Tl.ini(la(, her Brat call from San Francisco upon her way to Crescent City. . ... • ,. , Butler's brother'. bnUdings.wh.chwerebn.il m ,85, wheo the gold excitement w»rt the highe.b. a» st.ll ;„,lK 1st,. I preservation. Trini, ■■ had some ' 5ei twenty or thirty paek-train, went out dad, to SluTat Sawyer , B ^andOoidl f. and the ^^ownL^aietore, - - elovatio I "*»£££ 11 interior. The lumber bnmnee .eth, em. PP r k.broinsolul still be is still considerable mining, and tne pa ma with their load, bound for the mmea -iirit::--*--- ,! ^Snirr^Cw.Wat.neanda.ordea pleasant stopping place. 1 ORLEANS UAH. Ml of Klamath County m boO ^^ « MVW With T SSI Xl -hat, forming a b, *■ tttiuS"eCfe £:C: bars at the rive* edge, then sin consisting in ^ "^ table,a„ds, and red hills «*** bottoms, taghe. bnch- ^ ^^ ^ ^ rmpr 2i «»brsrKS;?»s: ^ST-nri , ion-bthebalance rflho world, except on the 1 icano deck of a mule. A pari* iu the spring o. : » - - ^ lUsc0V mouth of the Klamath, which had jus ^doff Tbe ered.byseamcanoes.andtwoo.thieeto tream - being swollen, it w- J*-^ Bar," as it was a,ul the party concluded *^1 navigation. As the nvst called, would be about the ^a ^ ^ ^ season advanced the river dned up to town dried up also. HYDESVILLE. •„ is-,s on a place called by theeupho :v'-:C!.::r:=i-"':=: In 18o9. the.e wa „ ^ one sto,.u s.ddler. carpenter. . oe, aekor a h e y ^ ^ ^ ^ kept by I. Ma"— * » MU|swM, tu,.ning L«fc-«J£T odt, "ay. They were located ST2SS- on rager Creeh and propelled by water-power. . fcl county Hydeevmeisnow^de^he^h^^^^ '^^rtmingc tcyto- » »f ^ lLn. it nab general stores. S.B. I ^tr^r^ndent .the Humboldt and

158 DESCRIPTION" OF THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES. Mendocino Stage Line, resides here. Stages pa-s here daily. Samuel Strong's pleasure resort is located about nine miles from Uydi-ville, and is fitted up for the comfort and enjoyment of guests, and fully described elsewhere. J. A. < foylfl Lb the dealer in stoves, tinware, glassware, crockery, hardware, and a large general stock of agricultural implements. Hia business place is locate* 1 on the main street. I). Gibson & ( 'o. are the principal dealers in dry-goods, clothing, hoott* and shoes, hats, caps, etc. They also keep a general line of ladies1 and gents' furnishing goods and a large general merchandise stock, wholesale and retail. The members of the firm are David Gibson and Louis Hessing. KOIINERVILLE. The town obtained its name from Henry Rohner who still resides there and is a successful business man. In 1859, there was but one .store here, kept by Rohner & Feigenbaum, and a hotel erocted by Brovver & Woodruff*. Now it has a population of 510 people. This town is situated twenty-two miles southeast from Eureka, and is pleasantly located in the rich valley of Eel River, one mile north of the stream. The principal wagon road of the county passes through the place. It has an excellent farming and grazing country on one side, and redwood timber on the other, to back it. A. M. Gill is the principal merchant having a large stock of general merchandise. It can be truthfully claimed that Rohnerville has acepjired as large, if not a larger, trade with Trinity, than any other point in Humboldt County. Train loads of merchandise leave here weekly for trading points on the Trinity River, and to that portion of Trinity County lying between Hay Fork Valley and the South Fork Mountain, to the south. A great portion of the furs and skins coming from Western Trinity find a market at Rohnerville. The Rohnerville Herald is issued every week by Charles E Gordon, who publishes more local news for an inland town than any other paper. It is a live paper in a live town. There are two hotels, one extensive saw and grist-mill, churches, schools, and all needed business houses. Land in the vicinity is held at high prices. In the valley and improved, it is valued at from $30 to 875 per acre. Rolling hill-lands in the vicinity have a rich, dark, loamy soil, and are excellent grain lands, and are valued at nearly the same price as the valley. St. Joseph's College, an institution of learning belonging to the " Society of the Precious Blood of Christ," is in the suburbs. There are four church societies, United Brethren, Congregational, Methodist and Catholic. The Odd Fellows and Masons have large societies and halls. There is also a large public hall for meetings aud exhibitions. An abundant supply of pure spring water is furnished by the water-works. FERNDALE. Ferndale has a population of some 350. Francis Creek, a swift little stream runs through the town, affording splendid facilities for drainage. It is connected by daily stage with Eureka, and is located some eighteen miles south. It is beautifully situated on the south side of Eel River Valley, about one mile beyond Salt River, at the foot of the range of hills bounding Eel River on the south. This flourishing town is delightfully situated, well built, public spirited, and is improving. Ferndale is well situated for a business place, having the farmers on the south and west side of the valley, and on the other the settlers of the Bear River and Mattole sections. This valley is about twelve miles in length, and on an average from four to eight miles wide. This may properly be called the cream of Humboldt County as an agricultural district. A post office was established in 18G0, S. L. Shaw postmaster. The Ferndale Enterprise is ably managed by Dr. T. A. Alford. A. Putnam is one of the substantial merchants of the place. His residence forms one of the illustrations for this work. Messrs. Russ, Searls & Putnam have a fine brick building, and the largest store in the county. Mr. Joseph Russ, the senior partner, has about 50,000 acres of land in this vicinity, and is the owner of over 2,000 dairy cows, which are rented to dairymen with land enough to support a certain number of cows. This firm are also in the forwarding and commission business and are one of the large dealers in butter on the coast. Roberts Hall is fitted up for general use, and is owned by D. K. Roberts. A. Bearding has a large store of merchandise and general agricultural implements and does a large trade. Ferndale Hotel is kept by W. J. McCollum. It is a firstclass stopping place and can easily accommodate fifty guests. Everything is conducted by an experienced proprietor who knows how to keep a good hotel. There are now three fine churches in Ferndale, Methodist, Congregational, and Catholic. There is a free reading-room and library of 200 volumes, and an excellent school under charge of Prof. L. B. Lawson, who has introduced a method of teaching penmanship by a new and shorter process than any now in use. He is about publishing a book on this subject. The village has several stores and business houses. The business of the town is rapidly increasing. It has the usual quota of professional men. Among them may be mentioned A. A. Glasscock, M. D., a skilled physician and surgeon, who has an office and residence on Church Street. PORT KENTON AND SALT RIVER. Salt River is a small stream but is navigable for a short distance for deep water craft. Ferndale is situated on this stream, and Port Kenyon is the shipping point. Centerville is at the mouth of Salt River. Port Kenyon is four miles from the mouth of the river. J. G. Kenyon, the original owner of the land upon which the shipping point known as Port Kenyon is situated, struggled long and bravely to establish the fact of the navigability of the bar. He finally enlisted T P H

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DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES. Y.'hitelaw of San Francisco in the matter. an and a few dwelling houses, and has an airof thrift ure has done her part toward making this place arable for spanning the stream. The river is narrow, the banks high and lai pul on eithei nde, forming perfect from which the bi j to a graceful arch fai moved from the dangers of high wal This is the second bridge that has spann-i the Van Dusen at this point, the Eormer one was 3wept away by a fr. There was a sad accident connected with its destruction. Several men and a lad were standing upon the bridge at the lime watehincrthewaterasit rushed down the canon, when the bridge was struck by a large log, gave way and went crashing into the foaming torrent, the men made their escape but the poor lad went down with the bridge and was drowned. BLOCKSBURO. The town was named after the enterprising business man B Blockburger. He has had our artist sketch the town so as to show the business of both sides of the street. The town shows a business thrift, and several new buildings have been erected during the last year. In the center of the view of the town may be seen the "pack-trains," which give a very good idea of the manner merchandise is transported into the interior where roads are poor. The town has a public hall and several stores and shop, A race track is laid out on a flat among the willows. The business of general merchandise is conducted by B. Blockburger, who has an extensive trade in that locality, and is a popular and influential citizen. A first class hotel is kept here by H. H. Ticknor, a prominent citizen. Guests receive the best of attention. SHELTER COVE. This Is at the extreme south corner of the county. It is the natural shipping point for southern Humboldt and northern Mendocino. It has a natural open port, easy of access and vessels often lay here in time of heavy northers. The improvements consist of an ample warehouse and two staunch lighters. It is a strange, wierd place, and is well calculated for a seaside resort. There are about 300 acres of good plowing land, consisting of table-land immediately on the beach and side hill, rising eently above it. Back of this rising higher and more abrupt, Lhe"r and higher the grassy hills ascend in a semi-circular form having the little table flat on the beach for its center, till they reach the timber and chaparral-lined summits of the ^ TheaeT breaks with awful force upon the rocks north of the harbor and has played some singular freaks. In many

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II DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES. places it has cut underground chambers, and wl.cn the surf ryt boiling and foaming waters may I ,:, ,,i roaring and bellowing through these salty caverns all nd, while the ground quakes with the untold force of the uddenly checked breakers. ffumeroa and extensive hell mounds indicate many hun,,,,,! ,,i ,:11 of feasting upon the shell-fish which abound on ,,„ r0cfc by the aborigines. Sheltei Cove was at one time thickly Bettled by the Indians Tne fortieth degree of latitude passes five miles below the harbor, and the same forma tne southern county boundary line of IIuiiiIjmI.Ii County. The harbor i a perfect shelter from the heavy north winds, but Btofma from the south Lave full play, though the expense would not be great to make a break- water that would shelter an ample anchor ground. The export* Prom Shelter Cove for 1881 were: 220,000 pounda Of wool, 8 bundles deer skins, 2 bundles pelts, 13 cases merchandise, 2 boxes eggs, 1 bundle furs, 1G bundles leather, 1 box aeeda, 1 1 kegs butter, 13 sacks dried fruit. PETROMA. This little village ia situated rive miles from the beach. Its location is a quiet place with mild climate, while the pepperwood, alder, cuttonwood, madrono and buckeye form a pleasing background. Viewing the valley from Petrolia, there is n>i apparent nutlet, the point of observation being entirely surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills. The hills are open on every aide except looking south. It commands the trade of both Upper and Lower Mattole Valleys, whose fertility is as rich as any in the county. Within a few miles of the ocean beach, it is fanned by the cool sea-breezes, but escapes the aoutherly gales bo prevalent in winter, and the barrier formed by the hills completely breaks the force of the " northers." The town is steadily growing, new business is springing up, and many and varied improvements are continually being made; I here are two general stores, one hotel, two saw-mills, and a grist-mill, and other shops and business places. It has but one saloon, and it seems as if that was starving to death; a thing worthy of note in a California town. It has a fine large school house, attended by lo8 scholars. There is a church here, hut we were unable to obtain any statistics. ( >n the river about a mile above town, is a saw-mill, run by water-power, having a sawing capacity of about 5,000 feet. The timber is pine and spruce, no redwood. On a branch of the Mattole, also about a mile above town, is a small flouring mill, known as Langdon's mill, which furnished flour for this section of the valley. About the only produce which can be disposed of from this section is butter and cheese, wool, beef, mutton and pork. The best fruit in the county grows on Bear River and the Mattole, but it is too great a distance from market for profit. ARCATA VILLAGE. The name of "Areata" was given to this place, formerly called Union, in March, 1800. The Tmea of that date said: — « No name could be more appropriate for a village containing such a sociable and fun loving people than that of Union. Some romantic people about there, ran away with the idea that 'Areata' is a legitimate digger word, and means 'Union.' This is not correct. It means a certain place in town where the diggers were once in the habit of congregating, which in our language would be about the same as ' down there ' or ' over yonder.' To some, ' Union ' may sound as sweet by any other name, but not so with us. Therefore, other people may call it what they like, but we shall call it 'Union.' ' Notwithstanding the opposition to the new name, it easily stuck fast and became popular. In 1854, Areata had twelve or fourteen stores carrying large stocks of goods, besides saddle and harnessmakers, jewelers, gunsmith, tin shop, and several blacksmith ami wagon shops all doing an active and lucrative business. The first officers of Areata village were elected in April, 1856, under the order of the County Judge, incorporating the village. The following were elected trustees: W. C. Martin, A. H. Murdock, T. J. Titlon, and Byron Doming; Assessor, J. P. Whaley; Treasurer, H. Stern; Marshal, William Wall. But in May the act of incorporation was declared void. There were four towns on the bay in 1855, viz., Humboldt, Bucksport, Eureka, and Union. The first three boasted of one store each, while the latter had seven large wholesale establishments, with harnessmakers, saddlers, iewelers, tinsmith, and blacksmith, with a brisk trade with the mines and plenty of money. Mad River Canal was cut through in 1854, but no logs were taken through the canal until a raft was pushed through belonging to L. Larkin. In 185G, Areata was connected with the ship channel by a plank road and rail track two miles in length, passing over the intervening marsh or flat. At the end of the rail track was built a fine wharf and warehouses. In 1856, Areata had nine wholesale and retail stores, besides hotels, drug stores, tin, harness and gun shops, church, etc. The town was laid off after Spanish style with a plaza, around which are the principal business houses. Titlon & Serights erected a grist-mill in 1857. There were two private schools in 1856, one of girls, kept by Miss Hart, and the other for "young lads and girls," kept by Miss Webb. Now there are large public schools in flourishing condition. SUNDAY LAW IN 1856 IN ARCATA. " After the first day of June, 1856, we, the undersigned merchants, pledge our word and honor to keep our stores closed on

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DAIRY RANCH OF 3iiiIwALKER6 MILES FROM ?1^0TS^™n™5S0AD HUMBOLOTCCCAL

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DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES. K,l Sundays and trannact no kind of business wha -n that day. KOSK.U.frOO., II lM,:..s:-.»UN. A Tifdl'Y '5' A-''"'" •"• * ' ,|„ • A WM.M.KV, |o MCta i, mm;';' wtuAMCB^™, Bowles & ''"i'111 ' ' ' Union, May, 1866. Union, m »■;/» '""-'• Areata is now an incorporated town situated at the he«l ol ||m„,ol,,U.,iy,al„,nts,v,n roil* distant b»ta ■• lit.ine.L,,, Hwelvemilesbyland •-;■■- — WM located in I860, a* related in the g ralh.story. tfc built u, a plateau sufficiently elevated tec an a JtofKurcllnn.lallofthchay •«. "1 the enWe, an d — - rir;;:-::::^».™ :rt :.:».;"..-- ■ ■-"""" "t'-sr. !--«-fii Will not exhaust. h M Vill u has _: pieman •— ^ are numerous be seen by our illustrations. Its ou a1tS. a .a,,e substantia, .onesto,. It is one of the largest mercantile houses in the ^ rf Arcata. Robert Burns is an cxtens.ve *"**»•» toware, and He is the principal dea^=r;^t; his trade extends over a lay e ^^ B an The Burns Block, seated on the co n ^.^ — "«f* jrSCt houL of Areata,,Hie residence ie one of the » situatlon LS cated on elevated land, and on £. nmr > ^ ^ rf prominent, and commands an e^tens. U,,SI- are represented in our hutory. ^ ^^ TbeMamh House ot Arcata ,» a q y „ „ a p,aee in which to stop P"™""^ ° ^ with all the good Lperance house. WW. *. U* » ^ . things of the season and »«£ ye ^ ^^ ^ careful hand and stnet f~£^ has attached to the house this the proprietor. Dr. *-H-M» ^.^ aod stcam a system of eleetro-magne Uc 1 ^ do alnl0st a baths, whieh, with his apphca-'0 ^.^ ^ who by miracle in restoring to a "'' out 0f order. ueg,eet, have allowed theu- systems to ge , ITY OF a USX towaeetUriinmir 1„,lr^,v.-l,.-** : ; £ lor shop, paint shop, tannery n, ba ,. shop,a, >a dozen carpe a. Deguerrem. room s. on but ' . _j civa enginee, 1 lawyers, two phye.e.ans, ;;:,; ::,:,,:, , *»-*■ -r"^ st » and brush and bad the titleoi "The Church it5S - J- aatherings. To-day it has five churches ^nCw^he eastern shore of HumhoHt Bay about the principal sh.ppmg pom c y ■ { an eligible site, on nearly level .oun ,P ^ th0 no,,hwest, affording fine J^^^ rf ,,,,,„ and discharging cargo. towns ^ fche The Sambold, County Bankhaab ^^^ ^^ and has a paid V*****"™?* ha, an excellent repuaeat, and W. * 2^.2^1—*. »— " tation as an emmen ly safe a Congregational, T-e are five ehn ^^^ Nearly a„ of the | have societies in Eureka.

162 DESCRIPTION OF TOWNS AND VILLAGES. The public school buildings are large an

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REMINISCENCES 01 FORT lU'MBOLDT. 163 Sketches of Fort Humboldt BY A F0BME1 ft] IDE I 01 [TH > [N giving a history of the early daj of Kumbold l i,|H. establishment of Fort Humboldl and i\ occupation by two companies of the Fourth d. S. [nfonti ould nol be fa ten. Indian disturbances bad been Frequenl the early eettlen became alarmed, and urgent requests were made for troops to the officer commanding the Pacific Department. The Fourth Regiment U. S. Infantry had been sent to California in July, 1852, The regiment reached Benicia Barracks inAugu that year, its ranks depleted by at least LOO dying of cholera Two companies, B and F, were selected togoto Humboldt Bay to establish a post for the protection of the then sparsely settled region. The troops sailed from Benicia the latter pan of January, 1853, in the little steamer Qoliah, commanded by her owner, Captain Wright. Brev. Lieut. Col. R. < '. Buchanan commanded the troops. The officers under him were Lieutenants Scott, Underwood, Bonnieastle, dook, ;u»d Dr. Deverle. Lieut. L. 0. Hunt joined the command some weeks later. Lieutenant Underwood was accompanied by his wife, and a few camp women followed their husbands to this almost unknown region. Some anxiety and nervousness were felt by the weaker sex at least, in regard to " crossing the bar," and entering Humboldt Bay. Wrecks had been frequent, the channel was a shifting one, and not well understood at that time. It did not allay the fears of the timid, to see the ghostly remains of vessels wrecked at the entrance of the bay, their spars still visible, as a warning to mariners that they too might share their fate. But the little Goliah steamed right in without signaling for a pilot, giving her passengers a slight shaking up, as she " crossed the bar. All eyes eagerly turned to the shores of the new home, to see what kind of a country this was. The impression was decidedly a pleasant one, the beautiful trees, and shrubs, and ,,.,.,,,„„';„ contrast to the barren hills about Ben.cta. Colonel Buchanan was authorized to select the most desoable location for a fort, and to proceed at once to put np brings suitable for his command. At this time Eureka was little n.ore than a swamp. The writer of this article, remembers W6« the hospitable reception given the troops upon therr arrival there. The families of the late Hon. James Kyan and F. S. Duff were then living in primitive style, in quarto* snn ar • to ^of.Mr.Peggotty.-in-DavidC.ppexfield. he a > • of these families welcomed the new-comers and extended to them die hospitalities of their home. Bucksport at that time, was a rival of Eu.eha and at to redwood being >■ Tents v. I upon the smooth plan- of the bluff lei > parade Building began at oni ien of the command labor. The plan iU1 in with hewn logs, then weati The in this mannei bul it was found to be and anneo arj in ■ * good m n itionforthe coldi I weathei of the bay. in;. i BIB i ii at BUMBOLM The first house completed was assigned by courl q bo Lieu tenant Underwood, whose wife and young son were made as i ifortable as possible. This sun, now an honorable officer in the naval service, was the in -i child born to an officer al Fort Humboldt. He was bom in a ten! pitched in the yard adjoining the little house in which lived Dr. J. Clarl oftheearly settlers at Bucksport, the Dr. sharing bis house as far as possible, with the family of Lieutenant I oderwood. The Huestis family then lived at Bucksport, also the MoInny's, who had a hotel there. Captain and Mrs. Ticknor lived near Table Blurt", and Mr. Duperu was a citizen of the Bay. The Martins and Wymans were then living at Uniontown, now called Areata. Game of all kinds was abundant, and beef could not be obtained, only at long intervals. A contract was made, with the celebrated hunter, Seth Kinsman, to furnish elk meat so many times a month to the command. This was found to be a substitute for beef, the men not tiring of it as of venison. KINSMAN, THE OLD TRAPPER. The old trapper. Kinsman, is still living, and is identified with the first settlement of Humboldt. His stories of adventure with Indians and grizzlies, would fill a volume with thrilling tales. The winter remembers well the old trapper and Ids' violin. He used to enliven their parties by playing for dancing. His "Arkansas Traveler " was inimitable. Lieutenant Crook now a full Brigadier General, and the finest officer for Indian service in the army, was then a young man just from West Point. He was fond of hunting, and very desirous of trapping a bear. Tracks of bears were frequently seen in the woods adjoining the fort, and the young Lieutenant was at length rewarded by finding Mr. Bruin in the trap, so skillfully laid for his capture. The news created no small excitement at the fort. The bear was shot, and hi* carcass furnished food for those who enjoyed the coarse meat. Elk ami deer were seldom seen in the vicinity of the fort, but upon one occasion a herd of elk was seen upon the bluffsouth of the fort, and had a good sportsman been in readmess With his rifle, he could easily have brought them down. But they only took a survey of the landscape and bounded away with their horns in the air.

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104 REMINISCENCES OF FORT HUMBOLDT. The water was f nt, to the delight of all. The water at Benicia wan rather distasteful, being from cwterm, an

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&/.#J! fydcrM^ HUMBOLDT t , r^^yK J . J3

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HUMBOLDT TT PIONEER SOCIETY. 165 The Humboldt County Pionfer Society. Organized January 22, 1876 ; Reorganized and Incorporated May 12, 1881. BY sir. i in istis. Neakly a generation lias passed since the original adult members of this society set foot upon the then Bavage and forest shores of Humboldt Bay and vicinity, and before anothei generation shall lapse, all of our pioneer citizens above referred to, will in all probability have gone to that " waveless shore," whence they " Whn onofl reach it ahalt wander no mure." Prompted no doubt by the laudable desire to preserve Bomo memorial of the early settlement of this portion of our fair domain, us well as lor the accommodation of the annalist of future years, the initiatory step for the organization of a Pioneeer Society for Humboldt County was taken on the bth day of January, 1870, in the city of Eureka. At the meeting of pioneer citizens held on that day at the office of Maj. E. H. Howard, in pursuance to given notice, signed by Judges J. E. Wvman, and A. J. Huestis, Maj. E. H. Howard, Capt. H. H. Buhne, and F. S. Dull'; Judge Huestis was chosen Chairman, and Maj. Howard Secretary. Following an earnest expression of interest very generally participated in by those present, in the object and establishment of the society, and a hearty exchange of personal recollections and hits of Pioneer history, a committee was selected to draft a Constitution and By-laws, to be submitted at an adjourned meeting to be held on the 22d day of the same month. On that day tho second meeting of pioneer citizens was held in the City Hall on Third Street, when the committee selected at previous meeting, submitted their draft of a Constitution and By-laws which were duly considered and adopted as a whole. The election for permanent officers of the society for the first year, provided for in the Constitution, was then held, and resulted in the selection of A. J. Huestis as President; James Hanna, Byron Deming, and J. E. Wyman, Vice-Presidents, E. H. Howard, Secretary; R. W.Brett, Treasurer; C. W. Long, Marshal ; and I. Cullburg, C. S. Ricks, George Graham, Joseph Russ, F. S. Duff, and A. Brizard, as a Board of Directors. The society being duly organized, the first business transacted by it was the acceptance of an invitation tendering a complimentary reception by the young ladies of the " Humboldt Young Ladies' Seminary," which was held at that institution on the evening of January 28, 1876. The reception was largely attended by pioneers and their families, and reported by the city press as a most enjoyable affair. The first appearance of the society in public was on the 4th day of July, 1876, when, with its beautiful new banner for the first time unlurled to the breeze, on one side of which is a very clever representation of pioneer life, and on the other side is the m il uted a minent feature of the procession had on that day in the in honor of the Centennial Anniversary of ican Indep On the li »t 1 1 .celebrated its second anniversary in a becoming manner, consisting in a procession in the morning. Ill at Buhne's Hall in the afternoon, and b ball in the '-veiling. This gathering of the pioneer*, embracing many whose names and acta an- intimately associated with the earliest history of Humboldt County, was a highly interesting One, and was successful in attaining one of its principal objects -that of drawing together so large a number of tho first settlers of the county. The poem from the pen of Mr. Charles Com stock, a confirmed invalid of this city, was an interesting feature in the exercises at the hall, and ihows unmistakable evidence of the cultivated mind of its author. Some estimate of its merits and character may he formed from a perusal of its opening and closing stanzas, which are herewith presented; did allotted space permit, it would be reproduced in full: — THE HUMBOLDT COUNTY PTONEERS "From our place OD Life's rugged hill to-day Downward we cast our glances o'er tho way, Winding hack through the misty vale of years, Ami dim, we -■- tho J or ma ol Pioneers." "Some we see by the haby fingers led < II iliildreu'a children, aud many a thread I >f silver hair among the dark we trace, But oh! we miss many a well-known face; Have they forgot the vanished days of yore? We call and wait in vain, for they come no more ; For besides each village, town and city, There grows a rival without rivalry — Thither with tears, one by one we l>ear The forms we love ; the patient Mother there Is resting after tho toils of life ; And men who once were foremost in the strife Now slumber with those never waking bands, In the silent city of the folded hands; Oh, Pioneers, the way how oft ye tread Between the cities of the living and the dead ! But whilst those roofs of sod ye rear so fast Let, among you in memory of the past, Friendship s bond lie closed 'till the hour shall come, When the heart grows chill and the lips are dumb, And the reaper Time with his garnered years, Gathers these, the last of the Pioneers." But little, if anything, worthy of note is embraced in the history of the society from this period of its existence down to the 14th day of April of the present year. On that day there was a meeting of the society, at which a move was made with the view of rendering the organization more potent for the attainment of the objects for which it was formed. Several changes in the organic law of the society were suggested, amon" which, was one to exempt the wives and daughters of Pioneers from the payment of the admission fee then imposed. It was also ordered that the society celebrate its next and fifth annual meeting on the 12th of the following month. A committee was appointed to report at such meeting, a plan of reorganization with a view of incorporating under the laws of the State, if deemed necessary for the best interests of the society.

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166 HUMBOLDT COUNTY PIONEER SOCIETY. Fifteen or tirenl icaliom fur membership w*r rocei and a committee appointed tore] :i l'st- This meeting w& regarded as i bi important one tor the society, beca«H

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BIOGRAPHIES OF THE COtmTY PIONEERS. 167 i Miiniwij Daniel . 1 Mnrroy J. S. . . i Murray J. 8., »r. 1 Mm i ;.y (too, \) . 2 Monroe Alonzo i Marble A. P.. . i Minor laatc I Minor X. II • Mom ion Donald I OlgOOd I',. K i Pardee A L I r.Nin p. I i pollard I'- II. ■ 1 1 i i . ■ Woirtomburg, . . Maiuo Virginia M i SB i Indiana New Ynrk California Now York i lormnny Rhode Caland*. . I r.'lan.l Nova Scotia. . , . Ireland \i « JTork . . . . < lalifornia Connecticut. . . . Now York Ohio Maine MllBUIlclHIBOttS. . California Illinois' Nov., 1853.... March, 1850... 1850 1849 Sept., I860.... March, 1853. . Nov., 1850. . . February, 1850 Sept., 1854.. . 1854 August, 1850.. July, 1S51 1850 July, 1849.... Bept., " .... •' 1852.... July, 1850. . . February, 1851 l leccmber, 1849 1849 Sept., lSi')U... . Sept., ISo'l. . . . May, 1850..., California Germany Prussia New Hampshire Connecticut. . . . October, 1849.. 1852. 1851 Sept.. October, 1851. 1849. D»(e of&n.t . , May, 1853 ■ Born in I Bora in I J 1880 October, 1852 " July, 1850 Born in County, 1865 " 1857 ■i .. .. |gM Nov., 1853 " 1852.. Born in Count ■. . 81 I S52 1851 Mardi, 1851.. July. 1853 I sod January, 1853 I 1854 \ ii-.i it, 1855 July, 1852 Born in i bounty, 1856 February, 1851 January, " May, I860 February, 1853 1852 March, 1853 June, 1850 Horn in County, I860 1851 March, 1851 Sept., 1854 1852 May, 1851 Born in County, 1854 December, 1852 October, 1853 Born in County, IS.'.T 1 852 March, 1853 February, 185- May. 1850 HON. A. J. HUESTIS. Among the public men of Humboldt County, there are few bettor known, and none more universally respscted, and esteemed, than A. J. Huestis. Born in New Hampshire on the 22d day of February, 1S06. At the age of twenty-two, and for three years thereafter, he was a student of the Wilburham Academy, Massachusetts, of which Dr. Wilbur Fisk, was Principal. From thence he attended the Wesleyan University, at Middletown, Connecticut, on leaving which, in 1834. he married Miss Annie Minerva Chaffee, who still survives, to render him wifely aid and comfort in his declining years. The first year of his married life was spent in New Jersey, where, during that time, he conducted a private school. From thence he moved to Virginia where he at once engaged in the educational enterprise of building the Buckingham Female Collegiate Institute, of which he was for several years President, his wife being governess and teacher, for the same period. Resigning his control of this institution and placing it in charge of the M E. Church, he moved west in the year 1843, to the State of Iowa, where he energetically engaged in the most important educational enterprise of his life, resulting in bringing into existence the Iowa Wesleyan University. In 1849 be resigned the Presidency of the by the oi Sonoma in October, of the same year. In June, he located in the territory now included in this county, where he has nver statu With the exception ministry, fifty years .,f his life baa been spent in the local ministry of '.] II Church Although always constant in the field "f denominational duty, he ha repeatedly been called to an active partieipati oulai affaii ind I be adroinisl ral ion ol « ariouE official ins in civil life. Se was the first Superintendent of Public Instruction for bhia county, and the first President of the Society of Eumboldt County Pioneers I !•• w.-i- twice elected ad mbsequently, in 1806-67, represented this count v in the State Legislature. During his residence in Virginia he experienced a first slight attack of paralysis from which he soon recovered without any permanently serious results. Aftei an interval of several years he suffered the secon I attack of the same malady, but without its impairing the natural vigor of intellect or body which has ever marked his individual character ; and now, under the weight of nearly fourscore years, he survives the third and most violent attack of all, which (occurring some fifteen years ago), though adding somewhat to those infirmities incident to a

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168 BIO'MUPITTES OF THE COTJXTY PIONEERS. ami served in that capacity during the Inrlian irars f L863-4-5. At the close of the war he resumed the practice of medicine in this city, and continued in active practice until 1870, when he retired from practice on account of the pressure of his private business. Ee was the first Postmaster on Humboldt Bay. having been appointed in 1851, and was also the firat Notary Public ever appointed for this place. In 18.05 he was elected a member of the Board of Supervisors, and at the next «eneral election was re-elected to the Bame office. En 1857 he was appointed County Treasurer. In 1874 he was elected a member of the Common Council for the city of Eureka, and in 1876 was re-elected to the same office. The same year he was elected a member of the California Assembly from Humboldt County. While b member of that body he was very active introducing a number of bills and being a member of several committees. He introduc-,1 a bill for the completion of the Kneeland Prairie and Round Valley Wagon Road, also the Coast Wagon Road, leading from Ferndale to the county line, via PetroliaMs,., Authorizing the Construction of the Grizzly Bluff and Camp Grant Wagon Road. II-- is the author of the Humboldt County Road Law, and amended the Klamath County Dismemberment Bill .so as toseoure an adjustment of the affairs of the county. He is also the author of the Humboldt County Hospital Law, and he procured an amendment to the act incorporating the city of Eureka. He introduced a joint resolution asking for a mail route from Eureka by way of Ferndale to Mendocino County. He served on the State Hospital Committee, the Committee of Public Morals, of Commerce and Navigation, and was also a member of the Centennial Committee. As a Representative he was active, cautious, and untiring in his exertions to guard the interests of his constituents. His term of service was successful and in the main satisfactory to the people of his county. Tn 1878 he was elected Mayor of the city of Eureka and served his term of two years, declining a re-election. In person Doctor Clark is large, his height being five feet eleven inches, and his weight 190 pounds. He ha/accumulatod a good share of property, and is the proprietor of "Clark's Addition to the city of Eureka." He is a Protestant in religion and in politics a staunch Republican. HON. JOSEPH RUSS. From difficulty to triumph, from poverty to wealth, from obscurity to prominence by the sole aid of his own energy' Such is the history of Joseph Russ. He was born in Washington, Lincoln County, Maine, on the 19th day of December 1825. He resided there until he was ten years of a*e' when his parents moved to Belmont, Waldo County where' Mr. Russ attained his majority. He then made a start in the world on Ins own account and resided for a time at Dartmouth Massachusetts. Two years after he moved to Fall River where he engaged first in teaming, and afterward in merchandising. He does not seem to have been satisfied with the result of his venture for we afterwards find him at Appleton, Maine, where he purchased an interest in a saw and stave mill, connecting with them a grocery store. He remained in Appleton three years when the great event which changed the current and determined course of so many men occurred. The news of the discovery of gold in California, reached the East, and Mr. Russ was one of the many thousands who determined to try their fortune in the great West. Mr. Russ purchased the materials for a large business house ready framed, and prepared to put up immediately upon landing, and havin»put this on the bark Midas, he embarked on the same vessel for a voyage around Cape Horn. At Tuckawana he purchased a large quantity of flour and took this also. The voyage around the Horn was made in five months without difficulty or accident, and on the loth day of March, 1850, Mr. Russ was in San Francisco. He at once sold his house and flour without realizing much profit, and with a small sail boat containing six passeno-ers.set sail for Sacramento. Here he sold his boat t > some government officers and started for Georgetown, El Dorado County, but could get no further than White Oak Springs. At this place he was employed to take charge of a steam saw-mill, for which he received the modest salary of two hundred dollars per month. He remained here two months and then left for the purpose of building a bridge across the American River. Having finished this he took a contract to build a bridge across the Cosumnes River and Daly's Slough. . His next venture was to buy goods, take in a partner, and open a store at Volcano, Amador County. In speaking of this enterprise Mr. Russ says in his peculiarly quiet, humorous way. "we did an excellent credit business, and left the profits on the books where they stil remain uncollected." Of course this business did not continue long. Mr. Russ and his partner closed up business, and Mr. Russ purchased a number of beef cattle and drove them to a place on the Yuba River, then known as Onion Valley, where he sold his cattle at a fair profit and went to mining. He continued mining about four months with good success. From there he went to Sacramento Valley put up a large amount of hay which he took to Colusa and opened a hay-yard. This venture proved profitable, and Mr. Russ purchased a number of teams and commenced freightmg goods from Colusa to Shasta City. While engaged in this business he was attacked with chills and fever. He closed out his business and departed for Placerville hnld^Tf?* ' ^^ °f CaUle and ■*rted ^ Humboldt in he fal of 1852. He first remained at Rohnerville ^en v, ted Tab s bufc thinkiQg theie ^ e ble territory on Eel River, near where Ferndale now is he hauled it to Eel River and set out for Centerville. The party

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RES. OF JAS. E.MATHEWS, 5™ ST. BET D^,E STS. EUREKA, CAL. RES OFJ.L.SOUTHMAYD.COR.OFBROADWAY&CEDAR ST. EUREKA, CAL.

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BIOGRAPHIES OF THE COUNTY PIONEERS L69 arriving at the mouth of Bel River, made their boat fast and went into camp. Aftei thre* 01 four 'lays spent in the most toilsome labor, they reached the present site of Ferndale, where they went into winter quarters, subsi ting chii k meat an , is d vided into tw^y-one dairy ranches. five mules The to ^ ^blishment, His meat ma.ket » * ^^ nta > '- 8*>" * T"" ' a,: tensive business, giving emver, large eap.tal. and do an - ^^ ^ ^ ployment to ahoUU>0 -^ « b;si_, althou,„ not r^—^.entur.ashe would banished. DOW one of the largest land dthy men alifbrnia great friend of education, has oontril srally ry educational institution that has . I in the prince] in the Hun •»■ '" P trance indi< o thand rigoi ft i yel intbeprim. eral health excellent. M, led in l854to Miss Z 0f [Uinois, but a residcnl ol Humboldt County, an lady, . n been bl icd with thirl lildi n I whom are still lii in In L876, accompanied bj his family, he visited the Con nial.an.l-u.nl, i :tensive trip I of his childhood m Maine. Socially, Mr. Buss i affable, cl rful, and hospitable. There u a cmiel humor about him which is vei ble wifch0ui being at all showy, and which makes him a desiral'l'- half hour companion The long continuance of his business associations shows that he wear, well, and the regard his employes have for him shows that he does not abuse the power his wealth gives him. 1Ir {a ;, Protestant in religion, and in politics a strong Republican. Mr. Russ is, in every sense, a self-made man. H. ta pleasantly situated in his home, surrounded by his family. In iNso Mr. Uns-s was one of the delegates from California for the Republican party to the Chicago Convention: he W instructed to vote for Blaine, and continued to do so until Qa rfield's nomination was assured, thus showing his true Republican spirit. He has figured prominently in politics for some time, and is honest in his purpose. 1.1,1 AS H. H«'WARD. E H Howard was born July 10, 1818. near Poughkeepsie, County of Duchess, New York. After some years spent at school at Burlington, New Jersey, he was matriculated in the University of the City of New York, from which he was graduated in the Class of 1837, receiving one of its commencement honors. In the same year entered on the study of law at Esmond, Virginia, in the office of Sidney S. Baxter, AttorneyGeneral of the Commonwealth. Soon after he became editor and proprietor of the RicJ^nd Herald,, paper devoted to neWs and literature and published in the interest of an as• ,lon of YOuna men mostly engaged in professional stud.es, ZZ*™ *«ds contim,el as the RicImond IfT In May 1840, M, Howard was admitted to the W T he Supreme' Court of the Commonwealth of Virginia, .located in practice in the circuit of L. Summers, Superior T Jut Was in the same year married to Mi. Elvira HZ Col. R. Willburn, of Parisburg. Was ap^ pointed District Attorney for the county of Logan and elected member of the State Convention in 1841.

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no HUMBOLDT COUNTY PIONEER SOCIETY. B "' |sl4 retted in Sheboygan, Wisconsin. During ' • lit to Lieut. Joseph" D. I corps of Topographical Engineers, (since Brigi S A.), Mr. Howard then resumed practice o! his pn.t. ion in partnership with Elisha Foj Coos and at the b .urn' of President Polk's administration was commissioned Postmaster for the city of Sheboygan, which office he held until Deai itfl close, February, 1849 at which time he resigned and in the following spring Btarted for California with his family (wife and child), by the 8ants Fe* and Gila rout.;. On reaching the Gila River at the Pima Villages he determined to test the practicability of navigating the stream, and accordingly he launched the body of his wagon, which had been purpo lely modeled for amphibious service, and now was to be tried on a now element, as a family barge on the Nile of Arizona. The after-part was a cosy apartment handsomely fitted and upholstered and specially appointed for family use. Having embarked, with Dr. J. M. Ball, of Louisville, Kentucky, and the Rev. Mr. Stephens, a Baptist clergyman of Hannibal, Missouri, as oonvpagnons lee voyage, Mr. Howard successfully made the pa ;i re, arriving at Fort Yuma in three and one-half days from place of embarkation ; a distance, by the river's course, Of __•"' miles. FIRST WHITE CHILD BORN IN' ARIZONA. On this part of the journey, September 20, 1849, a little rumpus happened by reason of a stowaway being found aboard. A lady was at the bottom of it. But as Mrs. Howard declared the stranger to be her best beloved, and that she would be responsible lor his fare as well as good behavior as her own darling babe, he was at once admitted to the honors of the ship, and voted to be the first child born of American parents in Arizona. Arriving at San Diego Mr. Howard was compelled to a delay of one month, for passage to San Francisco. The Panama line sailed monthly and the last steamer had then just left port up the coast. By permission of Major Heintzleman,* Mr. Howard occupied quarters in the Mission Church at the head of San Diego Valley. In this venerable sanctuary was his first house-keeping in the State. He has told the writer, that *he always feels a twinge that necessity compelled him to profane with the fumes of the trencher and the kitchen, that altar which had been dedicated in clouds of incense to the Virgin and St. James ; but after all, poetic sensitiveness had no business to intrude itself at such a time. On the month following (December), having reached San Francisco, he at once entered into law practice associated with Stephen J, Field, Esq. ;+ their office being on the corner of Clay and Montgomery Streets, in what was then known as the •■ Belden Block." * Commanding a detachment of soldiers on escort duty to Mexican Boundary Survey. + Now Justice of the United States Supreme Court. March 1!', 1850, he formed a co-partnership with Lieut. I ,, .uglass I >ttinger • in an expedition up the coast. Under the ices of the "Laura Virginia Association," the schooner „ Virginia was dispatched with Ottinger as master, and i( la due to this expedition that the first re-discovery of, and entrance from the ocean was made to, the harbor now known as Humboldt Bay. From its contingent fund the L. V. A. as an acknowledgment of the special services of Ottinger & Howard in this enterprise awarded to each the amount of $1,500, or its equivalent. NAMING OF HUMBOLDT BAY. At a meeting held April 17th on (now) Humboldt Point, of which Captain Ottinger was Chairman, and E. H. Howard, Secretary, it was thought to be time to fix on some name for the bay. Various names were proposed. Among others, " Ottino-er," "Folsom," "Laura Virginia;" but all were voted down. The Secretary then presented the name of "Humboldt," in honor to the great philosopher and traveler, whose visit to the Central and South American States on the Pacific had enlarged and enriched the field of enthnological and physical science, but as yet had not been recognized by any local appellation bearing his name. It was adopted without opposition. THE FIRST ALCALDE. At the same meeting E. H. Howard was elected Alcalde; in 1852, was elected Public Administrator for the County of Trinity, then including the present territory of Humboldt; in 1856 and 1857, was District Attorney, and in 1858 and 1859, County Superintendent of public schools. In 1864, he was appointed to county office which the records do not clearly state. In 185-i, was a candidate for District Attorney, Walter Van Dyke, Esq., his competitor, and was defeated by a majority of forty-three. He was candidate for the Assembly in 1863, A. Wiley, Esq., his opponent, being elected by a handsome majority. For several years Mr. Howard wras Chairman of Republican County Committee, and previous to the Grangers' Organization in the county, was President of the " Farmer's Union." Until 1873, Mr. Howard had always lived upon his farm on Humboldt Bluff, at which time having leased his place, he removed to Eureka, wherein the enjoyment of that competence which makes him independent of wealth, he, with his family of wife and daughter now reside on a pleasantly situated homestead at the corner of G and 6th Streets. He held the office of Police Judge for the city, to which he was elected in 1876, for a term of two years. At the commencement of the Rebellion, he was a " Douglass Democrat," since which time he has prominently contributed to * On leave of absence — of Revenue Cutter Frolic.

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BIOGRAPHIES OF THE COUNTY PIONEERS. 171 ,,,,,,, Party, and the i. G a i "i il ■ principle Thi a ritei fcha acquaintance ol >; failed to ■■■ I Mb How ' !"•" pared touching | i i;llt ,.,,, i|1(. ,; i, ,,i I,, ii plea urewe will add thai Mr. Howard isagentli man ol raried andculti ative and sound jud mt,a graceful ol warm attach,,„.,,! , ftnd aevei di po ed to urn nder hie own con the Bake of popular Biicoea to thi everal public positions he has oc«-ii|»i.-i. :i.t.iiii..y mi.. I fiiitlifiilm is have marked thi li of bia duties, M | ■. Boward has six ehildreu living— daughters, Laidee M l,-,,„i \ , , Bertha (Mrs. Th fl i Tomlinson and Belen Boward, and Gila, Thomas, and Norman Boward .inllN VANCE, John Vane-, Esq., is in the pri I life, having been born in the province of Nova Scotia, October I, L82I. His father whs a ship-builder of the vicinity of St. Johns, New Brunswick. He had the advantages of a common-Bchool education, ftnd at sixteen yeara of age he began to learn the trade of Bhipand house carpentering. In the meantime he attended the Qight Besslonsof the St. Johns' Mechanics' Institute. At the ago of twenty ho had finished his trade and struck out for himself, as a builder and contractor, and located in Roxbury, \i;, i achu letl , ,,,. remained in Massachusetts until 1849, when he joined fchotideof adventurers for California Be took passage in the .,,,„,„.,. o/iio. The vessel put into Havana and was detained and confiscated. The passengers were transferred to the Qeorgia (.il|l(. Rogers was in command, who has since been l08, at sea. After crossing the Isthmus on foot they re-embal.kediD the Panama, Capt. Baily. He reached San Francisco July 6, L849, and engaged in house and mill-building. Heafterwavds mined on Yuba, at Foster's Bar, in the spring (lf lsr.l, with very good success. 1K. came b0 aumboldt Bay, July 24, L852, and has ever toe ln,-n actively engaged in mUl-building, lumbering and railroad construction, and other general business He has built houses, mills, steamboats, ships, hotels and railroads, and savs he finds in the latter the most intellectual field for mental labor Of any other undertaking in his experience. Mr Vance has a fine tract of some 5,000 acres of timber on Mad River, and on it is a saw-mill that will cut 40.000 feet ™>r day He has a railroad seven miles Ion? to transport the lumber to lighten on Mad River Slough, whence his steamer J* hauls them to Eureka for shipment. He also has a sawmU1 in Eureka with a capacity of 30.000 feet per day and oeto the logs for it by hauling them seven miles on his railroad Jrom Mad River Slough where they are put in the water and de in a raft and towed with his steamer Ada to Eureka. Xre thev are manufactured into lumber of all kinds. are full\ ll **•! an River Mill when, on February 17, 1882, W. G. Randall an-i than had eV) County in a dag - ""> rnnnin Wethini ;. though thffj say that if I class ... rO.OOO Ph< J i it Mi. \ ance erected a bridg I ! in is?:., a1 a cos! of $10,000, bui in the winter oi 1877 WJl, ..... So was still determini It.. hav< a rop bridg and in the Bummer of 1878 he re-constructed il . , | , j] -. 000. li is b fine structure and the only Hi truss bridge in the county. It is inclosed with red* I and ii fireproof. It forms one of our finest illustrations. Mr. ViHir.- if e public-spirited citizen and has done muoh to develop the resources of Humboldt County. Hews the to construct a railroad. His lumber and shingles are Eound in the markets of A-Ustralia, New Fork, Mexico, Central and South America. He has been Bending lumber toTahitifoi bhe past twenty-five years. Cn Arizona and all along the Pacific .slope south can be found lumber bearing his brand. To conduct all of Mr. Vance's business matters requires a dear head and great executive ability. He keeps employed about 150 men, forty work-oxen, and twenty horses, in his various business enterprises. He requires and u es b telephone line of twenty-two miles. His hotel is described elsewhere. Mr Vance is in politics a decided Republican, and in religion he believes in being useful to himself and his fellow-men. ISAAC MINOR. It is really pleasant and instructive to young men to read the biographies of successful and prominent men. Their examples should be imitated by all who complain of being roughly handled by fortune and nature. Isaac Minor is one of the many examples, proving that even il unsuccessful at first, by energy a person may attain a competency, and become a useful and influential citizen. Mr. Minor was born on a farm in Fayette County, Pennsylvania in 1830, and followed farming until of age. He left Uniontown, Pennsylvania, by way of New York and the Isthmus for California, the passage consuming two months and ten days, owing to detention on the Isthmus. He reached San Francisco. March 4, 1852, and like nearly everyone else at that time, proceeded to the mines. He went to Tuolumne County and was tolerably successful, aud in December, 18o3, he came to Humboldt County, where he has since resided and been actively engaged in business. For the first six years he en-aged in packing and trading with the mines and interior town°s He then settled on a ranch and engaged in stockraising until the Indian war broke out, in 1862-3, when by Indian raids and the war he lost all he possessed.

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BIOGRAPHIES OF THE COUNTY PIONEERS. m |0 auinotdiflheartenMmandwithcoi ben, ; local don hi form 01 from Areata, which is rep,, entedinth. ketch we have made of hi property which forma I . The form is composed of L40< » „, rich i land, producing wheat, oa*. barley, and potato which rill pei acre, of wheat, 60 bushel* (00, ftDd barley 80 bushel of pob LOO acl p i ;„,, i„ the rie* of hi Earm.atthesideof hi« resident will be ooUcedtl shardo* LOO apple tree 25 cherry, L2plum, ,., ,„,,,,,,,- .u the rightof the view will be seen the railroad as il pa - H 'ghhifl farm,and the dietant timber-belt i i„g ; backg Dd ED keep some stock on the |il:„.(. i;(,M,;illv l0o tod of cattle, 30 hogs, 30 thoroughbred nuns, and 15 boraei Hewasmarried in 1855 to Miss II 0. Nixon, a native of Pennsylvania The) hav< i, children living, Theodore H., [flaac N., David W„ Mary K. Bertie A , and Jessie L Minor. Thatfearful disea e, icarlel fever, claimed 3is children, Alice L., Florence", May, Lottie P., Maggie U and Sarah L Minor. II,. engagod in the lumber business in 1875, in company with N. II folk, arid built two steam mills near Areata. First the Dolly Vardenand next the Jolly Giant. Both of which he ,„,,,■ to Chandler, Brington & Co., of Santa Cruz. Jn 1881, ih company with fsaac Cullberg and James Kirk, built the barren Creel Mill, which has a cutting capacity of 35,000 I,,.,, p0r day. It is six miles from bhe shipping point to which bhe lumber is carried by the railroad owned and operated by Vocum & Fernald. HON. CASPER S. RICKS. (!. S. Ricks was bom at Rome, Perry County, Indiana, in [821. A Eter the age of fifteen years he engaged in the businessof Hut-boating on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers until about 1 8 12. He then removed to New Orleans, where he was engaged in the lumbering and commission business until the year 1847. After a short interval spent at Natchez in the superintendence of a saw-mill, resumed his former occupation at New Orleans. In 1849 he came to California by the Isthmus route, arriving in San Francisco after a passage of thirtyBve days, on the 18th day of August. Immediately thereafter went to the mines on the Yuba, remaining there about four months and meeting with moderate success. After leaving Yuba he was variously occupied in different parts of the State until he came to Humboldt Bay, where he settled (at Eureka) about the 1st day of July, 1850. His first venture at the latter place was with a general assortment of merchandise, in which he opened business under the firm of Cromer & Ricks, This firm at once ' acquired an undivided one-half interest in the original town site of Eureka. Soon after, having purchased the interest of his partner therein, Mr. Ricks devoted his energies and special attention to develop and secure to Eureka those natural advantages of location, which he foresaw would soon enable it to distance and defy all competition from rival business points on the Bay^ J ,,wa. advancement, in land and money, M, Ricks had M Bteblishment and growth of manufactunng enterprises, oi *hich lumbering has been chief, and large); eoatributed to invite early investments which have proved a source of permanent success to the owners therein, and pro*peritv to the town. In 1854 he attended at the session of he Lhtato, in the interest of the town site location of Eureka and i afiilly exerted his influence towards the passage of fche kef • to provide for the disposal of lots in the towns and villages on the public lands in the county of Humboldt." In 1855 he represented the county in the Assembly ot the State Legislature, to which position he was chosen his own successor for the second term. At the -first term was passed the act locating the county seat at Eureka. He was also, in 1861, appointed to fill a vacancy as District Attorney for Humboldt County, which office he held for one term. Subsequent to the more active participation in public affairs, his time and supervision have been given chiefly to his private interests, and particularly to the improvement of his real estate in the city. EUREKA WATER-WORKS. Deserving of prominent mention is the construction of water-works, with elevated reservoirs., supplied from an artesian well, by steam power, and distributing by three miles of mains the best of water to the principal business part of the city. While it is remunerative as an individual enterprise it greatly adds to the private convenience of citizens and to the general security in case of fires. His son " Lam " is superintendent of them. The "Palace Stables" built, stocked and equipped by Mr. Ricks, is one of the largest and most complete in its appointments of any on the coast, and is conducted under the personal care of his son Thomas F. Ricks. To the numerous dwellings which he had built before, Mr Ricks, within the last ten years, has added two fire-proof brick blocks, one of two stories, having three capacious rooms on the first floor for business purposes, with suits of office apartments on the second floor; the other block containing six large business subdivisions, with open, ornamental and attractive fronts, and all situated in the very heart of trade. Mr. Ricks is probably the largest owner of improved real estate situated in the city. He has always been among the foremost in affairs of public enterprise and in his own private concerns, devoting the acquirements of a varied business experience in early life so as to pluck success from opportunities which others might altogether fail to see. His extensive and almost sole interest being within the limits of the city, Mr. Ricks' natural ambition is to contribute, as far as may be, towards its growth and prosperity. To this end he has not hesitated to risk pecuniary investments, although they might not prove of immediate profit to himself. Mr. Ricks, however, never shelters himself behind a pretense to unselfishness in his

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HUMBOLDT 001 vi V PIONEER SOCIETY nim , tor personal success. For this he strives within tbi its of legitimate business methods, and as a asefal and active citizen, has practically shown that those methods cannot well be independent of the public welfare. In politics Mr. Kicks is a Democrat. In 1854- be visited the East, where he was married to Miss Adaline A. Fonts, of Clark County, Indiana. He has a family of thive emocratic, but Notwithstanding 'hi pn caution he fancied for a month afterwards that his tin _ II. H H H. Buhne was bom in 1 -"■ ls-J-_'. His fath. i seafaring and bheii i > |; ;' " school until he ws i 3 of age, whi □ he i mbarked in a seafaring life as cabin boy. One yeai aftei was prom and the following year ihippi I in a whalei Eoi the South Pac fie Uct a cruise he returned to his native home in Denmark in L845, with a full Bhiploadof oil and I On the 7th of June, L845, he began a com eal a o school, and I Ictober 20th received his diploma and went to sea on the same whaler ship he previously made a cruise in, and waS pr ted to first mate and officer of the first boa! They set sail for the South Sea, October 28, L845. On theii pal out, calling for fresh water and provisions, they were ship„ .ecked on I Jape Verde tslands. In the afternoon they anchored ,„„,,,. For| St. Luz, but in the night a heavy sea caused the vessel to drag her anchors, and she went ashore. The vessel was a total wreck, and two days thereafter nothing was to be seen of her. From there they went on board a small schooner for the Island Salt, another of the Cape Verde Islands. After their arrival they embarked in the Bremen bark Active for Bio Janeiro He there shipped before the mast on a bark commanded by Captain Fallesen, for Hamburg, Germany. When they arrived at Hamburg he returned home, about the hrst °E Ai^^tmaining at home a couple of months he left for Bremen and shipped as third officer in the whaling ship Clewntine, Captain Hashogen commanding, for the Arctic Ocean. After a cruise in the Arctic they left there about October 8th. SAN FRANCISCO IN 1847. They arrived in San Francisco in November, 1847. When they entered the Golden Gate they looked for San Francisco Where their chart located it, and saw only a few houses, and one ship lay at anchor. They looked then over towards South Saucelito, where they saw two large buildings, and three vessels were Win- at anchor. They then concluded to anchor there Tnstead of°San Francisco, as they inferred it was the largest busmess place. After they got to anchor Captain Richardson Ime on board and told them that the largest business place at » Yerba Buena," now called San Francisco. The next I! hove anchor and sailed to Yerba Buena and east ^^rJat^nbarquethatwa.l^iiigwiaihide.^d r; ^i the- he became accented with a family ^li I-* with the old pioneer "Bob Parker, Also

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171 HUMBOLDT COUNTY PIONEER SOCIETY. got acquaii Butter, ou board uf tlie first tearaei thai i buill in 01 run on thi San Francisco Baj ii vasbuiH by the Russian Govern at, and presented U> General Suttei While in Ban Francis bip'a doctor, ii, nermann di erted and wen! on the little teamei to Sonoma, and Mr Buhnc and a boaf crew, accompanied by a constable, pur ued bim Thej came near him jeveral times, but the Dr. alwaya provided with a£r< h hora bj the ranchers, and as Mr. B. says, the Dr would laugh a1 them on their jaded Bteeds, and flee fastei than before. After a chase of two 'lays they returned to 8onoma without the fugitive. When Mr. B arrived at Sonoma he found that hia boat's crew had ■ Inserted ami In; ami tin- constable wi -re left alone to get to San Francisco as best they « Id, and finally, after camping on Mare Islam! one night, tln-y arrived the night following on board of their ship in San Francisco. After three weeks spent in San Francisco they Bailed for Magdalena Bay on a whaling voyage, and had fair success. A voyage was taken to the Sandwich Islands whence they arrived the middle of March of 1848. There Mr. B. left the ship Clementme and re-shipped as second officer on the Dutch ship Zudipole, Captain Meier commanding. < >n the first of April they set sail for Okhotsk Sea and the Bay of Kamtchatka for a whaling season. After the season was ended they sailed for the Navigators' Islands, and arrived there in the latter part of December, 1848. While there they were informed of the discovery of gold in California, and after a couple of weeks they sailed for Talcowana, on the coast of Chili. They shipped a part of their oil and whalebone for Amsterdam, where they opened negotiations for carrying passengers ami freight for San Francisco. Here Mr. B. was promoted as first officer of the ship Zudipole, and sailed with passengers and freight for Valparaiso where forty more passengers came aboard, and in the first part of April they sailed for San Francisco with about thirty cabin passengers and one hundred and twenty in the steerage, and a full load of freight. In the first part of June, 1849, they were safely anchored in San Francisco Bay. Mr. B. remained a short time on the vessel and then concluded to change his life from a sailor to that of a miner. Hesa)s that was the greatest mistake of his life. He and his party left San Francisco for the dry diggings at Auburn. The day after he arrived in Sacramento he purchased a couple of mules to pack the mining outfit, and succeeded quite well in loading the first mule, but when they came to load the second mule they found they had more goods than he could carry, but they continued to load goods on until they had, as Mr. B. says, " more goods on the upper deck than on the lower one," and the consequence was that the mule commenced bucking and was not contented until all the load wai strewn over the plains of Sacramento. The mule ran away. After a hard chase they succeeded in overtaking him, and commenced re-packing. By this time they had learned to humor the mule's whims and not overload him. After several days they arrived in the mining vicinity of Auburn, where they commenced to dig gold, and had very fair success as long as it lasted. After mining about a month he was taken down with the fever and dysentery. After a fourteen .lays' sickness he finally got into Auburn and found two persons in a tent, one who had been third officer with Mr. B. ou the Zudipole. He took up his quarters with them until a friend from his native town who was teaming from Sacramento to the mines, placed them in his wagon and hauled them to Sacramento and assisted them on board a little steamer which took them down to Benicia, and on arriving there they got aboard a schooner and went tu San Francisco, where they arrived about the middle of October, 1S49. They went to a boarding house kept by Edward Young and Clavieter, who had been a shipmate of Mr. Buhne. The house was managed by Young & Clavieter, both of whom had been shipmates of Mr. Buhne. FIRST VIEW OF HUMBOLDT BAY. After his suffering six months, and his money all spent he left his sick bed and went on board the Laura Virginia, Captain Ottinger commanding. He shipped as second officer, and the second day out they passed Eel River and saw from the masthead the Bay of Humboldt. They went to anchor about four miles southwest of Table Bluff, and to the best of Mr. Buhne's recollections, the next day two schooners hove in sight, and anchored at the mouth of Eel River, near the Lav/ra Virginia. One of them proved to be the General Morgan, of San Francisco, which put out a boat and started for Eel River Bar. The Laura Virginia at the same time put out two boats, one with Captain Ottinger in command, and the other with Captain Swain in command (who lives at present on a farm on Elk River, Humboldt County). The intention was to follow the General Morgan's boat into the mouth of Eel River. Captain Swain's boat capsized in the breakers on the bar. Captain Ottinger turned back to the vessel in his boat and asked Mr. Buhne to go in command of his boat to the rescue of those who were in the breakers. He succeeded in saving the crew with the exception of a gentleman who was drowned before he arrived. They started north, and arrived at Trinidad Bay the dav following. They left some of the passengers there to exploi e the coast south and north of Trinidad Bay, and the vessels continued north in search for the mouth of Trinity River. They were rewarded by finding the Klamath River, which they supposed was the mouth of the Trinity River. As the sea was rough they continued on their course, and the day follow in «' cast anchor in Crescent City Bay, where they found the brig Kamehameama loading with piles, and the schooner Patigonian high and dry on the beach. After remaining a couple of days, started on their course south again, and sounded the bar of the Klamath, but had orders from the captain not to enter the river. They then sailed for Trinidad, and arrived there

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HUMBOLDT COUNTY PIONEER SOCIETY "" :i" I y who bad bi 1 a li f( . |t had '■ " ■' goo I ' ntri im lay, and the next day iln •, el ,ni I,,, i be i i PIEff] BO When off Humboldt Bar the Laura Virg uiii-lioi mi i.Ih afternoon of the 9th The morning following, Captain oiiiiiv-i ,-i I .-I Mi Imbue if he thought ii -afe to ero •■ the bai in the hip boal I te aid hi I hough) il ll«- then a ked him if be would be if the boal i.iiii thi bay? He on weredhimty itating that if he would Btay by him with bis boal he would try Aboul 9 o'i A. M., they net out in then boal for the bar. After Mi Buhne gob inside the breakers with the poorest boat, Captain Ottiuger turned about and struck out for the vessel. Mr. Buhne was compelled to continue his coui i into the baj The boat was Blled twice before they got inside the bay, When in the bay they went onto Sumboldt Bluff [now called Buhne's Point), and saw a line entrance to the bay. When on the bluff, about 400 Indians rami; running along the beach flashing their polaltee, One of the company called out to Mi'. I! to hurry down as that was a sure w«r sign, but upon his getting down the Indians bad them surrounded; they were verj Eriendly. They then started for the north Peninsula in their boat, the Indians following in their canoes, and upon their arrival, kindled a fire to cook their dinner, which consisted of roasted salt, pork and hardtack. The Indians were very anxious to trade with them, but they possessed nothing except a sailor's knife which they traded for a couple of smoked eels. By that time ebb tide was making, and they started to take soundings of the channel. After that they went on board the vessel and reported to the captain what they had done. In the afternoon (same day), they took all the passengers who could get into the boats with their baggage and provisions without overloading the boats, and started again for the bay. Mr. Buhne was in command of the first boat, and Captain Swain was in com maud of the other. When off the bar, the passengers were frightened, and did not wish to proceed further. Mr. B. told them that if they did not "0 on that evening, he would not bring them the next day. The other boat came along side aud they held a meeting and appointed a chairman, aud balloted to determine whether to enter or not. The majority were in favor of entering, and they proceeded, the other boat following. Mr. Buhne landed safely after entering the bay near where the lighthouse now stands, at about 7:30 P. m. NAMING OF HUMBOLDT BAY. After supper, the subject came up of naming the bay. Quite a number of names were suggested by different parties; some proposed to call it Buhne's Bay, but Mr. Shaw, now of San Francisco, proposed t -It, in hon Humboldt Ti, | the towns Am nag the real ■■■. 1 1 am i he oow owns a- part of bJS fine farm out with and p it After remainii 1. in the bay be lefl foi n ] i and purchi i I returned on the 1st of May as a passenger on the Laura I where they arrived on the 5thol & iO Landed at Sum* boldt City and pitched their tenl and mad.' ready to keep hotel. Everything went off nicely excijpi they keep watch on account of the Indians, because they would steal all they could lay hands on. One evening Mr. Buhne received an arrow wound be! ween the second and third rib from an Indian's bow. lie il jhi he would die, but recovered. Sis venture as a "canvas hotel did not remunerate him as he expected. He concluded to go piloting on the Humboldt Bar, and, making a few hundred dollars, went to San Francisco and purchased a stock of groceries, loaded them on the schooner Caroline, Captain Sterling, for Humboldt Bay. He was shipwrecked and lost all of his goods and clothing. He started for Sonoma on foot and took passage on a steamer for San Francisco. He was sick and without a cent or a friend. He met the captain of the brig Newcastle, who had been in Humboldt Bay, and told him of his distress. He took Mr. Buhne on board his ship to remain there until he recovered. When he recovered, he shipped on a little schooner as mate, bound for Humboldt Bay. After arriving he started packing to the Trinity River. On their first trip the Indians killed fourteen mules, surrounded them in the woods on Grouse Creek and kept up the battle for four hours. When the Indians ceased fighting, they continued on their journey to the mines on Trinity River, and after a fatiguing trip returned to Humboldt Point. He says that he was satisfied with his packing experience and did not desire tu repeat it. In July, 1851, Mr. Buhne went to the mines on Trinity River and worked on the Big Bar and also Cox's Bar. While there he was not financially successful, became disgusted, and one fine morning he packed his blankets up and put them on his back and struck out on foot for " Union Town," now called Areata, and from there he took a little sail boat for Humboldt Point. Mr. Buhne says he was so disgusted with his past expeditions that he concluded to try his hand at hunting elk and deer- was pretty successful. Mr. Buhne took charge of the brW Colorado. He shipped as commander.

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L76 BUMBOLDT COUNTY PIONEER SOCIETY. 8HIPWBECE AND NV-, . APE. While he was in command of her, Captain Brunerhoff, of the barge Hohne. asked Mi Buhne to assist him to get his ship to Bea, He reluctantly consented as the ship was drawing too much water to cross the bar in safety. But Captain Brunerholl wae determined for Mr. Buhne to accompany li in i, bo on the morning of the 2d of July, 1851, they attempted to cross the bar and were east iii breakers on the Smith Spit They'ut away the masts and spars and threw the deck-load overboard l<> •■■., .- the vessel, and still she pounded and soon the hold was full of water, [n the Qight it became very rough and the lin-akn wn

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BUMBOLDT COUNTY 110NBRR SOCIETY. 177 and a spirit of prophecy and heroism. Judge Wyman did QOl subdue the forest, nor break up the wild lands, nor drain the swamps, nor build ihipe or railroads, nor open up mines; but he was a builder, and in a .sphere that was essential to the fare of the county. Justus Edwin Wyman was born in Wobuni, Mass., October 21, 1823; afterwards removed bo Maine and was educated in the college at Gorham in that Stat-:. At the age of nineteen years ho went to sea, and during hi maritime life mad< eral voyages across the Atlantic n ubsequently resided in New York; studied law with Judge Lott Clark, and was admitted to practice before the Supreme Court of that State. In the spring of 1850 be came bo ( lalifornia by way of the Isthmus, landing in San Franci co the day after the big fire, in May. Mined on the Feather, Yuba and American Riven during the summer and winter of 1850; and in the spring of 1851 moved to Areata (then Uniontown), Humboldt County, where he engaged in mercantile pursuits and the practice of his profession. In 18G4 he removed to Eureka, having purchased the Humboldt Times, and was engaged in this business up to the time of his death. During his residence in Humboldt County he served as County Judge for fourteen years. Hiving joined the order of Odd Fellows at the age of twenty-one years, he remained an active member of that order until the time of his death, a period of thirty-six years. Was one of the founders of Anniversary Lodge, I. O. O. F., of Areata, and Fortuna Lodge of Eureka. Was a member of Mb. Zion Encampment; of the Veteran Odd Fellows of San Francisco, and a member of Humboldt Chapter Royal Arch Masons. He was also a member of the Society of Humboldt County Pioneers. He died November 5, 1880, after a long and painful illness. All that remained of a kind and doting father and affectionate and loving husband, a true friend and a noble man, passed from the gaze of mortal eye. JOHN J. DE HAVEN. The subject of this sketch was born March 12, 1845, in St. Joseph, Buchanan County, Mo., which place his parents left in the spring of 1849, for California, and reached Sacramento in August of that year, cross'ing the plains. He resided there from August, 1849, to May, 1853, when he came to this county which he has since made his- home. In 1802 he commenced work as a printer, and worked at his trade for four years. While working as a printer in the office Of the Humboldt Times, he for part of the time acted as editor and displayed ability in preparing articles and managing the paper. He read law with the late Judge J E. Wyman and was admitted to the Bar in March, 1866. and now occupies a leading place among the attorneys of the county. He was married in 1872 to Mi- Z J. Ball, a native of Ohio. They have two children, Jotham J. De Haven and Sarah Louisa De Haven. In 1867 he was elected District Attorney, which office he led in 1869, to take his seat in the Legislature, having been elected to the As- embly that year. He was eli cted to the state Senate in 1871 : two sessions. He has sine in the practice of his profesaion in Eureka In L878 he was by a few votes d a candidate to the Constitutional Convention f i . i uut\ In polities Mi. He Haven i can. ALEXANDER BRIZARD. A. Brizard was born in Bordeaux, Franco, March 17, 1 At the age of four years his father, bei captain, moved his family to Lima, Peru, where he located and embarked in a stage line from Callao to Lima, until 1848, when he reached San Francisco and was soon afterward followed by his family, who arrived September 2."), is p.). Thence he left for Hum boldt Bay, arriving August 25, 1 >••">•>, and located at Areata. Soon after Alexander accompanied his father to the Trinity mines. STARVATION TIMES IN THE MINES. In the winter of 1852 and 1853, while Mr. Brizard was at the mines on the Trinity River, the snow was so deep that all communication between Uniontown (now Areata) and the mines was shut off, and consequently all provisions at the mines were soon exhausted. One dollar a pound was charged for flour, and only five pounds could be obtained by one person. It soon gave out, and all other provisions, excepting barley, which the merchants sold at sixty-five cents per pound. This was ground in a coffee-mill and made into a paste, and was all they had to eat excepting the mules and jacks, with now and then a fox or deer or wild cat. Early in the winter they killed all the Jacks and mules, ami salted them down for future use. They endured these hardships from November, 1852, until March, 1853, when a packtrain came in loaded with provisions. Flour was seventy-five cents per pound, and all else in proportion. No one died from starvation, however. In 1857, Mr. Brizard concluded to embarked in a more lucrative pursuit, and engaged in packing at a food salary, ami in 1858, secured a position with Roskill & Co., who were then the leading merchants of Areata. Then when they disposed of their business in 1859, he engaged with Spencer, Manhiem & Stern. They carried on the business until the death of Mr. Stern, when the firm dissolved, selling out to Mr. Brizard and James C. Van Rossum in 1862. In 1865, they purchased the business of William Codington & Co., and followed the business until 1871, when Mr. Brizard bought out his partner and carried on the business until 1875, when he was burned out at a loss of 8*0,000 with only 810,000 insurance. He soon opened a store by the material assistance from parties in San Francisco, who had confidence in his business abilities.

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178 IICMBOLDT COUNTY PIONEER .SOCIETY. [n i ->., i„ pu] | present Btore, ofwhicli we have ma le an illustration. He also has three other rtorea in Huinboldt County in the interior, and one in Trinity County, and on, in Si.sk iyou Coun ty. I fa owns, or is interested in the above itore , live in number. He alaohasan interest in a pack-train of 100 mules, used for transporting merchandise to the interior to the branch stores. II.- has a farm of 400 acres of first-class timber land easy of access. II,. married Miss Maggie Henry in 1871, who was a native of Iowa. They have three l"

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IH.WIBOLDT COUNTY MONEEB SOCIETY. L79 orchard of 120 trees, mostly apple. So g< neratty keeps about four cows, thirty sheep an. I seven ho Se married Mi- Mary A. Bulkely,a native of Pennsylvania, in 1861, Tbeybavefour children, two boys and two girls. named: Annie, Henry, Lizzie, and Franl R The village of Rohnerville derives il name from him, He was Postmaster there when engaged in bu in ». He built the first house there used for merchandising, W. s. ROBINSON. On the left bank of the Van Duzen River, at Bridgevilli found the fine farm of W. 8. Robinson, which he bought in 1870, from Mr. Silas Hogland, and which comprises 1,520 acres of good grazing land, of hilly formation. The residence is. pleasantly situated and the surroundings improved. It has an orchard of 120 trees attache) 1, which bringsa variety and an abundance of fruit to the owner. Mr. Robinson is engaged in stock raising. He keeps all kinds of stock, but his greatest pride is taken in his flock of 1,000 sheep, which are of a high grade and amongst which can be found some fine merino sheep. Mr. Robinson married, November 18, 1862, Miss E, L. Albee. and they have three boys and six girls. He is one of those men who started life with nothing, and made a capital with hands and energy. We will give a short sketch of his life. Born on a farm in Virginia, February 4, 1828, he was brought up thereon until 1836, when his parents moved to Tennessee and afterwards, in 1843, to Missouri. He stayed with them until 1850, when he concluded to emigrate to California. He came per ox-team via Fort Laramie and Bridges and Salt Lake City, and Truckee River, and arrived in Nevada City, California, September 26, 1850. Mr. Robinson mined awhile at different places, but not finding it very profitable, he left the mines and went to Colusa in 1851, where he teamed between that anil Shasta City. Hearing that Humboldt County was a fine place to settle down, he, in 1852, disposed of his property and in company with Mr. Joseph Russ and others, came to this county. At first Mr. Robinson resided in Ferndale for two years, then moved to Union (Areata) where he stayed nine years; then to Eel River where he remained five years; then to what is called the -Redwood House," where he remained two years, and then to his present home, of which we have made an illustration. G. A DUNGAN. It is a well-known fact, that most of the prosperous men in this country, are men who were brought up to hard labor. Here we introduce another of those men who toiled until they conquered. Mr. G. A. Dungan, lives on a farm owned by him, consisting of 222 acres of land located within nineteen miles of the county seat, two miles from water communication, and within three miles of Ferndale. He was born in Harrison County, Kentucky, duly is, 1829. Before coining to this Mi. Dungan Worked in several States as a farm hand until 1850, when be left Lee County, [owa, his last and arris 'own (Placervill. . AngUSl I months to accomplish the trip. The lir.it job he got was to make shake day and dinner. The other meals he had I i c ■ 1 ined in several places, but what money he made in one he I" ' in the next; so after stop I 'ity. Fori I I ity and Downievill. . he al I isl to »k hi this county, where he arrived in May, 1853. At first Mr Dungan engaged in salmon fishing, and iii 1858, bought hia pr< farm, which is of a deep, rich soil, a clay loam, and •• oats from sixty to 125 bushels, wheat from thirty ton htj n.i potatoes from three to fifteen tons per acre lie also o sixty acres of land two miles away from his residence, and an orchard close by containing 150 apple, twenty pear, twenl j five plum, and fifteen cherry trees. He keeps ten head of cattle, 252 sheep, and nine horses on hand at present, Mr. Dungan's home is presided over by his amiable wife, whom he married in 1863. She was a native of Illinois, where she was known as Miss Mary L. Jenkins. The}' have two boys and two girls named Eleanor, Garland Albert, Joanna, and George Guy Dungan. NATHAN I EL BULLOCK. The careful readers of our history will find a description of the large saw-mill of J. Russ & Co. One of the partners and the head book-keeper of this large business is Nathaniel Bullock, a native of Yates Center, Orleans County, New York, where he was born September 26, 1834. Mr. Bullock is a Notary Public for Humboldt County and agent for the Union Insurance Company. His residence is an ornament to the village of Eureka, where he resides. His wife, Sarah M. Huestis, is a daughter of one of the pioneers of Humboldt. She was born in the State of Virginia, and their children are: Minnie A., Nellie O, Blanche, Gertie, Bertram N., and Russ R. Bullock. They were married in 1864. Mr. Bullock's motive in coming to California was to improve his health, which he has accomplished in the fine climate of Humboldt. He left his native State in June, 1860, coming by way of Nicaragua, which formed a very pleasant and agreeable trip. He arrived in San Francisco in July, I860, from whence he went directly to Areata, where he stayed until November 1861, after which he came to Eureka, where he lives now. He was en^age'd in diverse occupations; at one time he mined, at another he farmed, and at another he was engaged in a mechanical business, and Is now book-keeper and manager for J. Russ & Co's. market. He has been a member of the firm of J. Russ & Co. in the lumber business since 1875.

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180 HUMBOLDT COUNTY PIONEER SOCIETYISAAC CULLBERO. I„ Winging the deferent citizens of this county before the ndblic we most not omit to niention Mr. I^aac CuUberg, a pro peron rebut who resides in Areata. He is a native .'„ Qotenbarg, Sweden. Be went to Antwerp, Belgium, at ^ ,,,. 0f twenty-one, and remained there nine years as a clerk; during four years wa* engaged in merchandising. In March, 1858, he arrived in Philadelphia; from thence he went ,„ piatteCifcy, UQi OUri, and with ox-train across the mount;iill to Sacramento, and by way of Shasta to Hayfork and this county. He located in Areata in November 10, 1853, and engaged in farming for thTce years, and in April, 1S57, engaged in mercantile pursuits, m which he has become successful, and is classed .-non- the prominent business men of the county. II, was married in I860 to Mrs. H. M. Fales, who was bom in Woburn, MoSS, Hon. AUSTIN WILEY. A. Wiley came to California from Cincinnati, in 1852. In October, L853, he came to Humboldt Bay, and entered the Humboldt Times office as a printer in 1854, and, in company with Walter Van Dj ke, bought the paper in 1855. He bought out Van Dyke in 1857, and moved the paper from Areata to Eureka in 1858. II,. was elected to. the Legislature from this county in 1863 ; was Chairman of Committee of Indian Affairs in the House. In April, 1864?, he was appointed by President Lincoln Superintendent of Indian Affairs for California. He located the Hoopa Indian Reservation in August, 1H64, which virtually terminated the Indian war that had been going on in the counties of Trinity, Klamath and Humboldt, for a few years. In 1865 he bought a one-fourth interest in the San Francs,,. Mornin

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HUMBOLDT ( 01 NTY PIONBEU SOl IK/IT 181 1 1 Tin nbj< el ol and the present Secretary of th< Bud ingbam ' iui ■ . July 24, i 336 Lil ( lalifornian . :>i i limn ha of pion« i life in il With aim > i pi lc foi I uni and mi foi tunc ha> e no! l„ [843 his father, the I ton, \ J. Hut i;ii,nl\ to Mi. Plea .-'Hi, [owa An in ing.of which he we the founder, and now known a the [owa Wesleyan Univei ity, admitted the son to the advanta early intellectual training, and Bupplied those educational cquipmentfl with which, a a mere lad, hi to i i n thi new sphere about to be opened to him on thi listen! hore liv ii„. overland route, in the great exodu of '49 to I !ali fornia, he made the toil ome jourm j and arrii ed al Sonoma late in the Pall of the ame year. Early in the Bpringof the following year, he Was again on tin-, in. -v.-, ami in .Innr, iN.'iO, with his father, located in Humboldt County, -where, with a „light exception, of time, he has resided ever since. The dan..,.,... ;1I11| hardships of travel, and the trials of pioneer life, wore not lost in their influence on his character. Though but , mQre boy, not unfrequently had devolved on him the duties o£ ., ,„„„_ He had been taught to share the risk sun. I responsibilitiesof 2,000milosof a wilderness journey, and the early developmenl of his mental manh. and robust self-reliance, wa8 but the natural oflspring of rugged experience during this formative period of his active life. At the age of twentyone M,-. Huestis visited Santa dura County, where he was ougaged to teach in one of the district schools of that county. dialling this engagement and returning to Humboldt, he again engaged as teacher in one of the public schools. About this time he was selected by a nominating convention as a candidate for the office of Superintendent of Common Schools for Humboldt County, and, although the ballot llul not record a popular victory, yet he won a compliment For himaelf under defeat, by the display of on energy and tact in „„. canvass that would have been creditable to maturer years. With an ambition that was not content to be idle in the ranks of private life, Mr. Huestis soon became identified with |ocal politicSl in which he always took an active part. As a field more favorable to his desire for political observations, and for more enlarged experience in publie affair-. Mr. Huest^at ft, commencement of the session of the Legislature of 1859 60 paid a visit to the State Capitol. Without the usual help rf £ extended acquaintance with Us members, or the prestige which personal influence or political affiliations as ^pronounced partisan .night give, but by a tact and afiaUh* '* his own. he secured a situation in the organization of the Senate, that introduced him to a succession of appoin— the State Legislature, from year to year, only ending in 18, , . In 1 1 Huestis wain 1867, his name was submitted for i State Klamath Hon. i with b tie mcessioi withdrawal o ■■' thus brol threatened the harmoi ,ll"u unani uslj i inated, and do one c -ed thi i „„„, hig election than Mr Hui \i,um ih i time he received from Governor Ha uppoin hi ol Adjutant Q< m n Qnai , of California, with th« rani of Major, which position he held for I wo yeai In 1877, Mr. Huestis became thi nominee of the Ri publii party for the Assembly; bul the extended prevalence of the "Dolly Varden" defection in the Republican ranks, and the sharp antagonisms engendered in the contest for nomination were unfavorable to his success, and the result was the election 0f his rival To one of less perseverance these adverse experiences might have pervaded to retirement; bul oo such alternative occupied his thoughts. The active arena of politics had now developed a sure, balance and command of hisown powers, and the several occasions wherein he had experienced defeat in the past, were but preparatory steps rendering his success re certain in the future. An intercourse and con tact with public men for nearly twenty years had given him a pretty good chance to form correct opinions concerning them, and probably convinced him that certain opportunities being Offered he .night, with equal, if not greater clain. to fitn, fill a position of higher trust and dignity than h. had yel sought That opportunity soon came. In 1878 a Convenl ion for "the revision of the State Constitution had been authorized by a law passed by the preceding Legislature. Mr. Huestis matured his plans and admitted but few to his counsels. The result was that he received the nomination from the Nonpartisan Convention for the Third Congressional District, as one of the delegates at large, to the Constitutional Convention, and was elected. To the tempest of abuse and envious detraction which fairly blistered its own tongue in the intensity of its personal venom, showered upon bim by his enemies during the canvass Mr. Huestis paid but little attention. He had no weapons to soil in an engagement of that character, but chose to wait the coming occasion, when by addressing himself to the grave demands for intelligent action on propositions involved in framing the organic law of the State, he might silence the flippancy of petty political opponents, and compel from envy a just recognition to merit. In the organization of the Convention Mr. Huestis was

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182 THE HUMBOLDT COUNTY PIONEERS amigfi...! to o mei p on two of its committees: "Educa,,,,„ an(] On Pardoning Powar? He introduced the first proposition before that body on Revenue sad Taxation, and ,„„, ,,, tl„ i, tfeatare of Article XIIL of theNew Constitution relating to thai abject, were adopted as presented by lim, On frequent occasions during the protracted -• don, he broughi to bi c n the floor of discussion, the fruits of con cientious study and close application, which always commanded the attention of bi hi ai Imbued with right principli , and Bhowing himself a clever manager and practical parliamentarian, he was justly regarded bj hisa ociates, and the representatives of the press, having , ;,i assigned them in the Convention, as well able to sustain the dignity of his place. As will be seen by this brief sketch Of In a life, Mi Huestis lias known what it is to meet and overcome difficulties, and to win success. From the close of the Convention to the present time he has abstained from active political affairs, devoting his attention to those private interests, which, long neglected, now demanded his closest business care, In 1801, M i . Huestis was married to Miss Amanda, daughter of Captain J. C. Bull, of Areata. He now resides in the city of Eureka. JOHN ANDREW WATSON. John A. Watson, a pioneer and prominent citizen of Humboldt County, reached California in October, 1851, having left Brunswick, Maine, for the then distant shores of the Pacific, taking the Nicaragua route and reaching San Francisco in thirty days. Hi- was born in Dover. New Hampshire, December, 1829, and experienced the usual trials of boyhood days and early manhood, in his New England home. Following the usual plan pursued by new-comers at that day, he proceeded to the mines of El Dorado County, in search of a fortune, ami after spending same time about Mud Springs he went to Trinity County, where he resided from February, 1852 until July, 1863. Ho entered the United States service in July, 1863, and continued until the close of the war, and was mustered out at ( )ld Fort Humboldt in 1865. A view of this noted fort is given in our frontispiece. He was elected County Clerk of Humboldt in 1868 and served for six years, until 187-i. At the close of his term as Clerk he was appointed Deputy Collector of Customs for that district, which position he now occupies. During his official life, by his strict fidelity and faithfulness he secured the highest esteem and confidence of all in whose society his duties have brought him. He is also engaged in the real estate and insurance business in Eureka. In 1868 he married Annie E. Seaman, a native of New York, and sister of Harry Seaman, Esq. Thej' have one child, Nellie Watson. sion as WALTEB VAX DYKE. Walter Van Dyke, who was connected with the Humboldt Tim* in 1856-78, is a lawyer by profession. Coming to HumI.,,!,!,, County during its earliest history, he practiced m the (.om„ u„til he purchased an interest in the ZW The publication of the paper interfered with the practice oi hisprofes_. and he was compelled to give up the former. He served I strict Attorney of the county in 1855. In 1861 he represented Humboldt, Mendocino and Del Norte Counties in the State Senate. In 1863 he removed from Humboldt County to San Francisco, where he would have a wider field in the practice of his profession. He now resides in East Oakland, and has a law office in San Francisco. L. M. BUHSON. L. M. Burson was one of the first settlers of Humboldt County, having arrived on the first vessel that ever crossed Humboldt Bar, the schooner Laura Virginia, in April 1850. He was elected District Attorney in 1S56 and again in 1858, and represented the county in the Legislature in 1859. PIONEERS OF TABLE BLUFF. Amongst those who came to Table Bluff during the years 1852-53, were N. Duperu, who located the claim furthest west on the bluff, and after improving and occupying it seven years, moved to San Francisco. The next place located on the bay side of the bluff was that of J. D. Mires, and was known as Mires' Landing, a shipping place to and from Eureka. Mires sold and went to San Diego. Captain Wright, an old man, preempted the shipping point on the south side of the bluff for freight to and from Eel River. Wright's mind became deranged and he wandered off and died. His body was found some five or six months after. Richard Woffenden occupied the claim adjoining on the east. He went to Mexico. Elisha Clark joined Mires on the east. Captain Johnston kept the lighthouse a few years and died. The adjoining claims were those of G. H. Brown, William Espie and Allen Hawks. FIRST HOTEL AT TABLE BLUFF. The first hotel was kept by John Van Arenam, which at that time was the only hotel south of Eureka, and was largely patronized, as many as fifty being at dinner at one time. Van Arenam and wife were buried a few rods from the house. The eldest daughter married at the age of thirteen and the other at fourteen, and both now reside in the county. Jackson Sawyer owns the claim next north of the last mentioned, which is described elsewhere. J. P. Albee located south of Jones' Landing. He with two others graded a track for a railroad for lumbering purposes in the timber north of Salmon Creek He was killed by the Indians. Two miles southeast of the bluffs were the claims of G. Garrett, who afterwards went to the mines, and E. Bulkeley, who was Sheriff of Humboldt County in 1872-75.

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BIOGRAPHICAL BKHTOHB8 OF (MTIZKNS. 183 Sketches of Prominent Citizens. HON. JOHH P H LTNE8. John P. II a v n the pr< enl Superioi Judge of Humboldt County, was born in Breckinridg- > ounty, I on the 3d day of December, L826. In bi i child! I, hia mother.then a widow, removed to Elbabethtown, B Kenfcuol v, where be waa rained and educated, tn hia seventeenth ,,,,, h« entered b tor. aaaderk and ^ tan, in which buai,'„., hecontinued for almost three years. About thii timethe Mexican war brokeout,and the young men o! fcl intyat once proceeded to organize a company of eolunteei I vl(,. The subject of this notice took an active part in organiabgthe. pany, and waa elected Lieutentant. The quota of the State waejilled so quickly after the iasuanc Ethccaliofthe Governor, that this company with scorea of others waarejected. Young Haynea with ten or twelve others of Lis company then joined Company C, Capt. Rowan Hardm, which was attached to the 4th Kentucky Volunteers, under command of Co. John S Williams, morepopularly known as "Cerro Gordo William* fr his gallantry in the battle fought at that place^ He gained in the service until tl lose o the war, On Ins rot„rn home he commenced the study of law and m due ttme enfceved bhe lilW department of theUniversity of Louisville, and graduated in 1851. . . , \t Wh,w„* he started for Cahh.n th U s. and arrived in this State early in 185* HeremameJ „ s„„ Franeiseo a ehort time, and then starW for he ner*,.„ part of the State, arriving in K.an,ath«in«« .pring of that year. During the eummer and tall he was engaged i„ mining on the Klamath. At the eleetion in November of that year, he wa, elected , .Utriet Attorney of the County ^ ^ ^ became the eounty^ _ ^ ,lia profeseton, and was e m ^ the removal of the eounty seat to Cleans Ba oifice' • .• rTVI Norte County soon afterwards, wa3 eleeted Dn,tr ?t Attorn , ,„,., „ml Klaro. T^STS hXaea.uUdateforDistrietduag, 1 „ f Id v Hon. William E. Turner, by a mejonty and was defeated by Hon ^ ^ ^ ^ b ot two votes. The Hk ^^ ^^ composed a lMge maion *•'»-"* Klwnath and Siskiv„„. At the °f i,uT'ml;;:t. h .;Sumedthe ,««. « * r*~ r: tit-i: iu- — ■ - — in B,m,ng without much , suceess. ^ ^ ^.^ by Qov. of (he countie* of Klamath. Humboldt and Del fill a vacancy occasioned by the resignation of inWi II,. waa elect* I by thi | •]■'• U> the same off' •trice lit m abolished b; lion, an Bumboldl been on the bench Totl be attributed bi rep I, in, [n June, i moved with biafamil and daughter, to Eureka, -I- co I of Bumboldt County, where he now residea l.nl IS T. KINS1.Y L t. tinsey is the present faithful Treasurer of Humboldt County, to which responsible office h. ptam| , | B77. Proving to be the right man in the right place, he , elecfced in L879,and histermof office will expire Jail nary I, 1883. Mr Kinsey is a native California. been born in Yreka Siskiyou County. December 17. 1852, wh, re he resided until 1857, when his parents moved to Humboldt County and located a stock ranch near Centerville, where they renamed about two years when they removed to the town of Eureka where he has since resided, Mr Kinsey engaged in the drug business in Eureka and continued in that line two years. He then associated with W. J McNamara in the clothing business under the firm name of McNamara & Kinsey. He married Miss Jenny Hart in 1872, who was a native of Santa Cruz County, in this State. They have one child Charles H. Kinsey. ^ The subject of this sketch has charge of the public schools of Humboldt County, under whose able administration they are iu a flourishing condition. He was born February 22. 1845, in Seneca County, New York His early life was spent on a farm, but be eventually drifted West, and resided for a short time in Michigan, Iowa, and Nebraska He left Fremont, Nebraska, in January, 1872, and came to California by railroad. He made his home m Hyde* ville and engaged in teaching there until 1881. He then moved to Areata, where he has since resided. He married Miss M. A. Reed in 1S71. She was also a native of New York. J0HK SMITH THOmson. J S Thomson Ls the efficient County Clerk of Humboldt. He was' appointed to fill the office of County Assessor of Klamath County in 1862. He was elected to the same position and served' in 1863-64. He was the only Republican ever elected.

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184 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. While discharging his duties hi: was obliged to have an i on account of fchi .-.from Indian attacks, "who wen that t hostile He filled hi- office creditably and . mo i : real n 1805, acccptin - i clerk, where he contin • until 1879. Thatyec was elected by the Workingmen's partyto the office ol I ( 'iri l., which be now hold .i 8 Thomson wa born in Lawrence County, Pennsylvania, June 8, 1833 At the age of fifteen he began to learn the carpenter's trade. He went to Iowa in 1852, and in 1859 he set out for California with ox-train, consuming six months' time on the road and arrived a1 Orleans Bar, October 4, 1850. He engaged in mining and ferrying at that place on the Klamath River. The ferry was washed out in the Hood of 1 SGI. II.' was prominently identified with Klamath County ami it* interests until he came to this county in 1865. He proves an honest and efficient officer and Btands high in the estimation of the citizens of Humboldt. 0, WA8GATT. Capt. ( '- Wasgatt, a well-known resident of Hydesville, first became acquainted with this county in March, 1851, when ho was wrecked on Humboldt Bar, in the schooner Susan W< i ii I well, which was the same vessel in which he came from Massachusetts. Two passengers and the cook were lost, but Mr Wasgatt escaped unharmed, after remaining in the water fourteen hours on the wreck. Soon after he located in Eel River Valley. Captain Wasgatt was born in Mt. Desert, Hancock County, Blaine, August 28. 1801. He was born on a farm and followed various occupations until he was twenty-three years of a»e when be shipped as a sailor before the mast, and followed sealife, lie was promoted to Captain of the schooner Bangor in 1828, which was wrecked the following year. He afterwards shippeil as mate, and soon after as Captain undertook successfully several hazardous voyages. II.- left Salem, Massachusetts, as Captain of the Susan Wardwell, for San Francisco, and came around Cape Horn, making the trip in one hundred and fifty-three days, reaching San Francisco in the spring of 1850. He followed coasting until wrecked as stated. After settling in Humboldt he followed farming until about IStiG, when he sold his farm and went to reside with his daughters in Hydesville, where he now makes his home. He was married April 12, 1832, to Miss Betsy M. Bowditch, of Salem, Massachusetts. They have lost one child, named Ellen, and the following are living: Sarah Ann, Louise, Cornelius, and Abbie Wasgatt. A. BERDING. In Ferndale we can also find the fine residence of one of the pioneers of California ; a " forty-niner," as the people call him. Mr. A. Berding owns several houses and lots in ,,„, and 705 acres of land (partly timber and portly Fanning land of good quality , outside the city limits. No H through Ferndale can fail to notice the nice store ;, ing to Mr. Berding; he is one of the most prosperous merchants in the county. ,,, Bi rding'a family consists of his wife, formerly -Mrs. M. H Blum, of Germany, and five children, three of them, viz.: Joseph'....- Gertrude, Clement Robert, and Christina Sopl ia, being his own, and two, viz, Henry C. and Lena Blum, those of his wife of a former husband. Mr. Berding was born in Oldenburg, Germany, December 8, 1 827. His father was a farmer, but he attended school until thirteen years of age, when he went into a store as a clerk, where he remained until nineteen years of age. He left then and went to liio Janeiro (South America), where he clerked for two years, after which, April 14, 1849, he and two of his friends chartered the Bremen brig Adelyande, Captain Beling commander, and loaded her with merchandise, which they intended to sell in San Francisco, thus showing an enterprising and wide awake business spirit. They had also goods belonging to several other merchants of Rio Janeiro on board. The trip was pleasant, they rounded the Horn in safety, with the exception that the vessel leaked some, so that the sailors were obliged to pump " for dear life," as Mr. Berding says, and arrived in San Francisco, September 15, 1849. There Mr. Berding sold his merchandise and went to mining in Tuolumne County. In 1852 he made a short trip to Mexico, returning the same year, and afterwards kept on mining until 1856, when he retired with fair success. In 1857 Mr. Berding came to this county, where he kept a store in Centreville; in 1864 he went to Oregon, where he stayed one year, and in 1866 he settled at his present abode where he is still engaged in general merchandising. HENRY HYDE TICKNOR. Traveling through Humboldt County by the "overland route" and stopping at Blocksburg, the traveler will receive a cordial welcome and the best of accommodations for man and beast, at the Blocksburg Hotel, which is owned by the subject of this sketch, Henry H. Ticknor. In the genial proprietor of that mansion, the strangers and the people of California can greet one of the oldest pioneers of this State, whose history may prove interesting to many readers of our book. Mr. Ticknor was born in Washington County, New York in 1814, where in his early youth, he occupied his time partly in school, partly in working on his father's farm, and in boating on Lake Champlain. The last of these occupations struck his particular fancy ; for when fifteen years of age he went out to follow the life of a sailor. He remained such for twenty years, until August 4, 1849, when he arrived in San Francisco, as mate of the bark Strafford (which belonged to the New

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• V «^ XJ4. /^W— SHERIFF supt: of SCHOOLS^V. -fV.^m^uATREASURER

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BIOGUAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZE 185 York Mining ' 'ompany,and was afterwards used as a prison ship at Sacramento). Capt. Win. L. Coffin was the commander. Thi trip from New York was very pleasant and in for tit*- bark stopped at St. Catherine's and Ban Joan Fernandez Islands, where all on board paid b ri i< bo U< candei kirk's Cave, all of which proved a good subject for Cm oe." At Sun Francisco, Mr. Ticl noi lost his fancy for the sea for a while, the gold fever taking a hold on him. He accordingly went to mining on Dry Creek, Bonorian Camp, where be had very good sue© , averaging an ounce a day. When the rainy Reason commenced, be again went to sea, in the slop /'.< staying this time two years on board In 1852, Mr. Ticknor came to thi county, where be di mined to settle for good. Ee occupied himself with agriculture, for twenty years in Bucksport Township, then went to II ydesvillo, and finally, after four years' Bojourn there, came to in ; present borne where lie has ever since reside I. While in Hydesvillo he owned a farm of 170 acres which he traded off for a Bheep ranch of 9G0 acres, called "Neapes' Peak Ranch," twelve miles from Blocksburg. After four years he kept a hotel in Alder Point, where he stayed two years. Although there were many troubles with the Endians from L860 until 1870, he never had any difficulty with them. The Chief, "Coon Skin," was friendly and protected him from all depredations, not even losing a single head of cattle through all the troubles. Mr. Ticknor owns a farm of 100 acres, besides his hotel, which he bought in duly, 1881. His property is so well known for its excellency, that we need not make any further remarks. Mr. Ticknor was married in 1850, to Miss Martha Green, of London, England, whose good judgment and industry does much in adding to their prosperity. BENJAMIN BLOCKBURQKR. Our readers cannot fail to notice the view of the village of Blocksburg, named from its founder, Mr. B. Blockburger, an enterprising merchant and business man. Mr. Blockburger is a native of Hillsborough, Illinois, where he was born May 1, 1828, and brought up until eighteen years Of age, when he enlisted in the Third Regiment of Illinois Voluntas. With which he went down to the Rio Grande. Afterwards he lived in several of the Southern States until 1853, when he stopped at St. Joseph. Missouri. Mr. Blockburger was married in 1850 to Mrs. Margaret Harkey, of North Carolina. She died in 1852. In the spring of 1853, he joined a train going to California; fehey set out APril 10, 1853, and stopped at Sink of Humboldt, where he remained with the worn-out cattle for six weeks, while his train went on. He then started on foot towards Placerville, where he arrived six hours ahead of the teams August 26, 1S33. Mr. Blockburger mined in several places with fair success until 1866, at which time he came t-i this county ngaged in ranching and dairying. In July. 1>7-. he burg, where be built the year before. He has been engaged in general merchandi citia n of thai section DOfflNOO EAH02T& Another worthy citizen, of whom this county can jusl proud, is Mr. Domingo Zanone, who Hi farm consists of 1,550 acres. School and church within miles. It is within thirty miles of water communication and forty miles of the. county seat. The land is splendid pasture ground, mostly rolling hills, and part of i' which is cultivated produces good hay and vegetables. There is also a small orchard attached to it. Mr. Zanone's home affords a splendid view of the ocean and is presided over by his wife, who is a native of Italy, and to whom he was married in 1874. Her maiden name was Miss M. Madalena Ghio. She is the mother of three girls, all of them are living. Mr. Zanone has seen a great deal of this world ; he was born in Genoa, Italy, March 9, 1828. He followed farming until he was grown up ami about to be drafted into the army ; not wishing to tight the battles of crowned heads, he said adieu to his native country and went to the United States, where his father had gone before: and returned to Italy in order to send all his sons to the United States. While in the East he worked in a foundry at Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. He left New York October 18, 1849, in a sailing vessel, for California. It took him eight months to accomplish the trip on account of sundry misfortunes which we will briefiy relate: The vessel made a stop at Rio de Janeiro, Valparaiso, and Chili. At Rio de Janeiro the vessel sprung a leak and yellow fever was so bad that the captain returned two-thirds of the passage money to the passengers, who took passage in a packet-line to Buenos Ayres and from there crossed the Pampas Plains and Andes Mountains to Valparaiso, making the trip in forty days. There they took passage for San Francisco where they arrived ninety-three days after, June 1, 1850. The first job in California was to pack bricks at Si per hour. He worked two days in that capacity, then started for the gold mines, atOroville; afterwards he bought some stock in the White Rock Flume Company, but was swindled out of all of his money. After residing in Sierra County for awhile he again went to Oroville, where he mined for seven years with very good success ; but losing again most of his money, he stopped mining in 1857 with 810,000 and purchased a farm on Dry Creek, Butte County, where he raised stock. In 1865 he came to this county. He was the first person

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180 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OE CITIZENS. who drovt B - "] in stockrai nog, owning at present 1,000 cattle, twelve horses, and five mul< II • is also a stockholder in the Humboldt County Bank, and part owner of the steamer FerndaU. He is very generous in promoting all public enterprises, and an honorable citizen. ALEXANDER QLLMORE. The residence of Mr. Alexander Gil more, situated in the city of Eureka, is an ornament to the city and forms one of our illu itrations. The owner, the subject of this sketch, was 1mm ii in St. George, New Brunswick. At the age of thirteen li< was thrown on his own resources, but with only his hands as soli' Capital, he has succeeded, through thrift, energy, and hard toil, to secure a competency. He left New Brunswick in 1850. on a bark which made the trip to San Francisco in about six months. The voyage was rough, but pleasant, and the bark arrived safely at her destination in June, 1850. Mr. Gil iv went straightway to the mines, but had poor success, so in 1852 he directed his steps to this county where he took up fine timber lands. He owns now 9(50 acres of good redwood timber land on Mad River and 240 acres on Jacoby Creek. Mr. Gil more is one of the well-known men in this county, and is log surveyor for the county, appointed by the Supervisors, who put unlimited trust in him. He is married and has six children, four boys and two girls. His wife is also a native of New Brunswick. His children are named Daniel, Jennie, Carrie. Frederick, William and James Gilmore. FRANKLIN Z. BOYNTON. The subject of this sketch was born December 28, 1828, in the town of Weathersfield, Winsor County, Vermont, and lived upon a large farm near Black River; remained upon the old homestead until 1846, then went to Boston, Massachusetts, and remained there until 1849. February 8, 1849, sailed from Boston harbor in the bark Ih-ii mmond for California, via Cape Horn; in tii'ty days from time she left Boston, made the harbor of Rio Janeiro, where he remained three weeks, and had the privilege of seeing the Emperor, Dom Pedro, his palace, Floral Gardens, and other public buildings. At Callao saw the ruins of the old city of Callao which was destroyed by an earthquake. Also, visited the City of Lima, and the famous cathedral built by Pazarro Emanuel. In August, 1849, he arrived in San Francisco, and then to Sacramento, which was then a city of tents and framed buildings covered with cloth; from Sacramento went to a place then called Mormon Island, on the American River, where he engaged in mining for two or three months. He was taken sick with lung fever and returned to San Francisco, where he remained until the spriug of 1850, and then went to the old Mission of San Jose and rented land and farmed upon a small scale, raising mostly vegetables, which were sold in San Francisco in the fall, at the rate of twelve and a half cents per pound for potatoes, fifty cents per head for cabbages, and other things proportionately high. He tried farming in San Joaquin County, but the season proved too dry. He was there when the famous bandit and horse thief Joaquin was making his raids; had all his stock stolen by him ; sold out in the fall and went to Crystal Spring Valley, in San Mateo County, where he was engaged in farming for five years. Being unable to secure a valid title to the land at that time, it being held under a Spanish grant, he abandoned the place in 1857, and moved to Humboldt County and located on Eel River Island, where he has followed the occupation of farming to the present time. His farm consists of 300 acres of rich bottom-land, situated between Eel River and Salt River, bordering on Salt River. It is four miles from Ferndale, and nineteen from the county seat; the land is all level, the soil clay loam; average crop of ■wheat, forty-five bushels per acre, highest yield, eighty bushels ; average crop of oats per acre, seventy-five bushels; highest yield, 130. He has 225 acres under cultivation, balance in pasture and timber. There are 500 fruit trees upon the place, consisting of apple, plum, pear, cherry, etc. He usually keeps twenty head of cattle, fifteen horses, fifty sheep, and seventyfive hogs. He was married to Miss Emily Ann Kinneson February 7, 1856, have four children living, three boys and one girl, by this marriage, Rollin Dewan, Franklin Hiram, Cyrus Harvey, and Annie Harriet Boynton. His wife died February 9, 1876, and he again married May 10, 1S77, Mrs. Malvina M. Morgan. CHARLES F. ROBERTS. C. F. Roberts Is another of the prominent citizens of Eureka, and is Register of the United States Land Office at the present time. He was appointed such in January, 1872, re-appointed February 15, 1876, and again February 15, 1880. He is a man who has worked his way up in the world bv his own energy and unaided efforts. At present he owns a farm of 3,500 acres, forty miles from Eureka, and another of 1,360 acres within twenty miles. He raises stock on those farms, usually keeping forty head of cattle, 2,500 sheep, five horses and two mules. The land which is partly cultivated produces an average crop of oats, barley, potatoes and corn and the orchard of 100 trees, a variety of fruit. His residence (of which we have made an illustration) is in Eureka. Mr. Roberts was born in Hartland, Somerset County, Maine, April 7, 1843. In his youth he attended school in the winter time and worked on the farm during the summer. In 1861 he enlisted in the Second Maine Regiment to serve his country in the late civil war. In 1863, being honorably discharged from the army, he left Bangor, Maine, for New York, which

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BIOGRAPHICAL 8KETCHBS OF CTTIZ1 city he left, the day of the great riot, June 13, 1863, for California. He came via Panama, and arrived in San Fran' AugUflfc 12, 1863. [n Septembei Of that year he went to Carhoii City, where he was employed in a Lumber yard. In 1866 Mr. Roberta came to this county ami went to work as a common laborer, in the woods. Sine- that time he has risen to hifl present standing and is a valuable acquisition to the county. In L865 he was married to Miss Alecia J. Bragg, a native of Maine. They have three children named: [da A., Guy L., and George Fred. Roberts: THOMAS HAIH. In the beautiful village of Areata, stands the pleasant home of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Bair, and their chidren, Thomas and Fred. Bair. The residence is finely situated and constructed of modernstyle with neat yard and surroundings. It commands manyfino views of the surrounding country and Humboldt Bay ; Eureka can be seen in the distance. Mrs. Bair was born January 1, L854, her maiden name was Allie Boyse, she was married to Mr. Bair in 1876. Mr. Bair was born September 26, 1844, he is a Missourian by birth, and was brought upon a farm. When nine years old he lost both his parents, and soon after came, via Truckee route, out' to California, in company with his uncle, where he arrived at Red Bluff in the fall of 1855. Mr. Bair was first cugaged in packing from Red Bluff to the mines, he afterwards resided in Idaho and Montana, and in the fall of 1867 located in Areata where he now resides. Mr. Bair is proprietor of a store at Fort Gaston, situated on the Klamath River, he also has a place of business in Areata. As he is still engaged in packing to the interior, he owns a line lot of pack-mules, 170 in number. It may be amusing and interesting to our readers, to read a little description of such a train, we will therefore give a short sketch of one. There arc generally from twenty to fifty mules in a tram, it takes about one man to ten nudes, and when everything is ready for a start it is highly amusing to see them loaded with goods of every description. One mule is always used for carrying the cooking utensils and is called the "kitchen mule. SAMl'Kl. STRONG. Mr S Strong is a native of Ohio. When lour years old, in 1827 his parents moved to Illinois, where his father took an interest in the lead mines and erected a mill. Mr. .Strong, Jr., staved with his parents until 1850, and assisted his father in business, he then came across the continent, per mule and horse train to PlacerviUe. where he arrived, after a three months" journey, July 29, 1850. He mined at different places with poor success until 1853, when he eame to this county, where he engaged in farming at different places untd 18/7. when he moved to his present home. His wife, formerly Miss Maria G. Johnson, he married Octoii a native of Now Hampshire; they have one daughter, man i A BEAUT! FCI i ItESORT. The readers of our book must not omit to Ion ildt County pleasure reeoi whirl, Mr. Samuel Strong is thi ing proprii I The place iprises an area of 126 acres, it i I ten mileafrom Hydesville and thirty-five miles from Eureka The Overland Stage delivers and takes mail t'-.i Eureka and Franci »co da • rammi i i ore eekei il ba uo equal in tin- county. It is delightfully situated on the east side of Van Dm B up in the redwoods, above the fog belt, where fishing and hunting can be had in abundance. The house has n large parlor with 01 etc., and seventm* sleeping rooms. The accommodations are first-class, a very good table is set by the landlady, who supervises the cooking, and the ti:> will always 1 »• welcoi I by the landlord, Mr. Strong, who i ever willing and anxious to make it comfortable for his gu and their teams. A fine orchard is attached to the groundsi where fruit of several kinds can be had, it contains loo ti and shrubs for smaller fruits. The grounds which are beautifully laid out, are fixed for croquet -aines, etc., and swings can be found for the amusement of children. EDWIN P. VANCE. E. P. Vance, born in New Brunswick. August 21, 1S3G. was raised on a farm. When twenty-one years of age he concluded to go to California, and accordingly took passage and came via New York and Panama dire.-t, making the trip in thirty one days. He arrived in San Francisco November 1 , 1858. and intended to go to the mines, as there was a great gold excitement at the time on Frazer River, a second thought though induced him to come to Eureka instead, and to start a saw-mill there. He did so with good success. In 1861 Mr. Vance returned to New Brunswick and stayed four vears, during which time he married, in 1863, Miss Mary Welch, of New Brunswick. Their children are named Esther E.. Louis J., George P.. Charles E, Mary, and Kate Vance. Havin- once tried the climate of California, he could not resist his desire again to settle therein, and in 1865 he cam, acrain to Humboldt County, thi, time bringing In. family with him He settled where he lives now. within one-quarter of a mile of Table Bluff Post-office, where he is engaged in farming. His farm comprises 290 acres, located within eleven miles of the county seat, and is composed of loamy soil extending over valley and hills. The land will produce 75 bushels of barley and oats, ISO bushels of potatoes, 50 bushels of wheat, or 40 bushels of peas per acre. He also owns an orchard of 300 trees, 14 head of cattle, 30 hoes, 12 horses and mules.

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188 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITOEtfS. UK) FABD s. hicks. Within two miles of Ferndale is the home, farm and resiidence of Mr. Leonard S. Hicks, who is a native of Vermont. iiv. Picks earn.- to this county April 8, 1854; he was first engaged as a mechanic, then went to the mines in October, 1855/ where he worked for three years with good success; afterwards returned to Humboldt County and engaged in farming and stock raising for the last fifteen years, which he still follows. His residence is pleasantly situated within one mile of Eel River, and four miles of the sea coast; He owns an orchard which yields all kin. Is of fruit an. I berries; and land which will yield as much as 100 bushels of oats per acre, and fifty bush. I . of wheat. The climate is one of the best in the State, the soil unsurpassed. The country is tine, forests of redwood abound, the hills offer splendid grazing grounds for the stock. Mr. Hicks is married; his wife is a native of New York; they have one child named Leonard Hicks. CLEMENT CHARTIN. Nut far from the Blue Lakes can be found the hotel and farm of Mr. Clement Chartin, a native of France. He is an energetic man, and has brought to himself a comfortable living by a close attention to business, hard work, and good judgment. Mr. Chartin was born January 2, 1827. His parents were poor, and were obliged to make him work hard from the time ho was twelve years old. He worked on the farm until he was twenty-three years old, living mostly on black bread of that country. He desired to see the world, and went to work as porter in a wholesale house for three years, then to Paris, where he worked as coachman for four years, then worked ten years for an English family; then traveled through most parts of Europe. He next went to Egypt on the Suez Canal, where he kept a restaurant for two years, then went to Jerusalem, where he stayed for six weeks, then returned to Paris. There Mr. Chartin received some recommendations for New York. He left France on the steamer William, and on reaching New York took a position for three months at Delmonico's, the celebrated resta

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BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. I-1.' satisfied with the location there, he again moved to Tehama County, and in 1870, moved to his present home and farm. Mr Brown's family consists of seven children, two boys and five girls, whose names are respectively: Minnie K.. Inez, John, Edward, Ethel, Agnes S., and Nellie Brown. THOMAS BTEWAJM ( )u the north bank of the Bear River, a shoii distance from Capetown Post-office in this county, we find a pleasanl home and property which belongs to 'Hi-. mas Stewart, who has taken great pains in beautifying the same. As Mr. Stewart is kind and entertaining towards strangers, we took advantage of his hospitality, and, after viewing his farm, which is divided by the river, and contains 619 acres of Bplendid grazing land, sat down in order to listen to the story of his life, etc., which we will give here for the benefit of the Citizens of his county. Mr. Stewart is a native of Edinburgh, Scotland, where he was bom I >ecember 9, L827. At the early age of six years he went to sea as a cabin boy with his uncle, and at the age of eighteen ho ran away from the ship while in Quebec, and went as a sailor before the mast for three years on the great lakes. Afterwards he worked for seven years in the coal mines of Illinois, then went to Cape Girardeau County, Missouri, where he stayed two years, and where he was financially ruined in 1862 by the soldiers of Jeff. Thomson. Being compelled to start life anew, he set out from Illinois with an ox and horse train across the plains, via South Pass, for California, but spent the winter of 1803-64 in Ogden. In the spring of 18G4 he continued on toward California, where he arrived at Hydesville in iNovember, 1864. M, Stewart has followed the business of dairying since he arrived in California, and now owns .00 fine dairy cows and twenty-live young cattle and nine horses. On his farm he ha9 an orchard of 125 trees, bearing apples, pears, peaches, cherries and plums. He is a self-made man and has seen a tZ many hardships, such as only a sailor and frontiersman "as had many narrow escapes. At one time headertook to rid the county of grizzly bear., being engaged fm that job by Mr. Russ nearly two years ; he slew a great many, and LJ them to be tough customers; into one of then > he had to five thirty-two bullets before he brought hu» down, ^52, and has one child, a girl named Emma E. Stewart. ERNEST W. DENT. ^ of California have we met with as many In no other county of Calito rn. ^ — «* ^ tVilV0,°\,,V:;;t may mention Ernest - *-*"* ° * ^p ^ of his experiences in life. Wm. Dent, who can just > be prom * _ He was born in Calcutta, East India, m ing a liberal education, hi in London j . ar and a half. At the age of left England f.-r < 'hina, where he proc rition with the firm of Dodd & Co ol mosa Be left after and a half years' service and wen! to Shangta he worked durim; »n. In 1878 he left Shanghai for m, where he was Assistant Superintendent of th ,. ,i Blackwat i tea and eoffi e i rtate; which | had avein 1879 on account of ill-health, the clin freeing will i him II, i,n Ceylon and came directly to E Halifax and N< ''"■ whole trip in torn utbs, and arriving in Eureka, April 26, L880. He then went to hi pn ,i,i homi which is situated within one and a half mill Ferndale, and within twenty miles of the county seat. II, owns 1*0 acres of land, and occupies him with dairying, owning twenty-five head of cattle, two hogs and eight horses. Mr. Dent thinks of experimenting as soon as he can get the seeds, to see if he cannot grow tea in this county. He understands the business thoroughly, and we wish he may succ I and give this county the honor of being the first in the United States which produces this valuable article. Mr. Dent was married to Miss Laura Ferrill, of this county, in 1*81. CHABLES \. DOE. A short distance from Petrolia is situated the residence and farm of Mr. Chas, A. Doe. It is on the west side of the north fork of the Mattole River (see illustration). The location is very healthy, free from extreme heat or cold. The farm consists of 1,070 acres of land, forty of which arccultivated and the rest used as pasture land for Mr. Doe's stock, consisting of some 100 head of cattle, fifteen horses and two mules. There is also an orchard of 100 fniit-bearing trees on the land, part apples the rest in pears. Mr Doe, who has had a good many ups and downs in life at various 'occupations which we will describe further on. U now peacefully settled and surrounded by an interesting family of five children named: Charles P., Annie L., Susan N., Blandie M., and Nelson H. Doe. His history is as follows: Born on a farm near Windsor. Kennebec County, Maine, January 29, 1839; he left it when fourteen vears of age; worked for two and a half years at the tanner's trade, and after finishing his apprenticeship went to Mobile, where he assisted in getting out a raft of cypress for that town. m In 1858 he went as a sailor, but after arriving in Portland. Maine «ot tired of a sailor's life and made arrangements to go to < lalifornia. He made the trip to San Francisco via Panama in twenty-four days. It was an unpleasant trip; three passengers died on the way.

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100 BIOGRAPHICAL sketches of citizens. At in i Mi Doe went into the luml -.and soon after wen! i D l nnty, then to Chico Ridge, built and run a saw-mill for one ami a lialf years, wlii-ii it, we di troyed by fire, He then left for hie old home in Mfiin--, December, 1861, where he married a year later, Bliss Hannah B Noyes, with whom he moved to Pennsylvania, where he located on f)>l Creek, near Titusville. In 1864 Mi. Doe set out for California again, and arriving in San Francisco, he made his home in Oakland for one year and then came to Humboldt County, where he now resides Ho tried to bore for oil near Petrolia at first, hut when he did not even get water after boring 1,400 feet deep, he gave up the attempt ami went into stock-raising ami fanning, which proved to be a profitable undertaking. HORACE 8. CASE. Mr. HoraceS. Case, whose home is also illustrated in this book, is another of the so-called self-made men of the coast. He says: Since thirteen years of age I was obliged to "hew my own timber;" hut now have succeeded in possessing myself of a, fine home ami considerable of this world's goods. Mr. Case's house and farm is located within a short distance of 1 1 vdesville. The house is sheltered from the winds of winter and is built on a spot one mile northeast of the town, which for its rural beauty may be called "romantic." The farm consists of G(50 acres of land of the best soil in the county. It will produce most any crop a man may desire. It averages sixty bushels of oat3 per acre and fifty tons of beets; the ground is mostly black loam, partially level and partially hilly. As Mr. Case is engaged in dairying he owns a considerable number of cattle and stock, amongst which we find 55 fine dairy cows, 600 sheep, 7 horses, and 2 hogs. He also owns an orchard of 400 fruit trees, apples, pears, plums, cherries, prunes, and all kinds of small fruit for table use. He has such confidence in the quality of his land that he tried raising alfalfa. He may be said to have introduced alfalfa into the county, of which he has now five acres growing nicely. Mr. Case was born in Pennsylvania, November 5, 1832. Being brought up on a farm he followed farming until 1852, when he came per pack-train via St. Joe, Missouri, and South Pass to California, making the trip in eighty-two days, and arriving at Yreka, Siskiyou County. He commenced his career in this country with mining which he followed until 1854, but not having much success, he the same year ran a pack-train from Crescent City back into the mountains and diverse other places, going as far as British Columbia sometimes. In 1863 he engaged in ininino' and merchandising at Canyon City, Oregon, where he married Mrs. Eleanor C. Cooper, in 1864. She is a native of Canterbury, England. They have one son named George W. Cooper also a daughter named Eleanor Case. Mr. Case came to this county in 1866. AMASA M. GILL. Turning our attention to Rohnerville, Humboldt County, we there notice Mr. Amasa M. Gill, who is one of the prosperous merchants of that place. He is a wide-awake gentleman and business man. As it may be of interest for many of our readers, we will give his history. Mr. Gill was born May 16, 1848, at Mallorytown, Leeds County, Ontario, where his father's family resided until 1857. His father was in California from 1852 to 1857, when he returned home and took them to Wisconsin where they lived for three years. In 1860, Mr. Gill, Sr., who got a liking for California at his previous stay there, resolved to try his fortune once more in the golden State ; so he, with his family, left Evansville, Rock County, Wisconsin, on the 4th of April, 1860, and journeyed across the plains, per ox-team, until they reached Eureka, which happened November 6, I860, just seven months and two days from the day of starting. As Mr. Amasa Gill was then too young to stand guard or drive ox-team, he had all his time to himself and therefore enjoyed the trip immensely, not being able to appreciate the dangers or hardships of it. Mr. Gill worked on his father's farm until 1865, when he was seventeen years of age, then made himself useful by teaching schools at different places in the County. He then went to San Francisco and San Jose to attend the State Normal School; after which he taught school in Placer County, and finally, in the summer of 1873, came to this town where he engaged in the drug business which he sold out in 1876, when he bought his present business. The same year Mr. Gill was married to Miss Ida J. Look, of San Francisco, born in Westfield, Wisconsin. They have two children named James Selah, after his grandfather, and Jennie Florence Gill. THOMAS DEVLIN. In the village of Areata, corner of Ninth and K Streets is located the large residence of Mr. Thomas Devlin. The railroad passes directly in front of it. Mr. Devlin is an enterprising business man and tanner of Areata, whose tannery is to be found on Eighth Street near J Street, and is described elsewhere. He has 480 acres of land containing an abundance of oak trees which furnish him the bark, necessary to manufacturing first-class leather. Near his residence is an orchard of 150 fruit trees bearing apples, plums and pears; and a number of varieties of berries. Mr. Devlin is a native of Perth, West Canada, where he was born June 13, 1834. He lived on a farm until he became an apprentice to a tanner which happened when he was eighteen years old. He learned for four years, and became a skillful and efficient tanner. He followed this calling in d.verse States East, until he reached New York, when he Concluded to go to California. He left Watertown, New York, m April and arrived in San Francisco, May 18, 1861, after a journey of thirty days, by way of Isthmus of Panama. The

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JJICHJKAl'IIICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. 191 journey across the Isthmus was pleasant), but from San Francisco it was almost unbearable, the boat was too crowded. The whole trip lasted thirty days. Mr. Devlin did not care to go to the mines, as he had on unpleasant experience in that line, by buying stock which proved worthless. He went first on a dairy ranch near Marysville, then went to Healdsburg where he stayed until 1866 and afterwards came to Areata where he located for good. Mr. Devlin is a self-made man, he had only his ham I 08 capital, when he started life in California, and now has quite an amount of property and an interesting family. In 18G1 he married Miss Hannah Davcn, of Ogdensburgh, N. V. The union proved a happy one, and was blessed with seven children named: Catherine L., William Grant, Lizzie, Nina Jane, Thomas D. Wallace and Bruce Devlin; the last two being twins. ROBERT W. ROBARTS. One of the finest houses in Ferndale which we have illustrated is owned by Robert W. Robarts, a young man of business habits and energy. From the verandas of the residence, one can enjoy many line views, as the house faces the hills which are covered with timber and ferns ; his orchard near by furnishes him with an abundance of fruit. Mr. Robarts owns also the livery stable in Ferndale, where he keeps twenty-five fine horses and numerous buggies of style and comfort. The little farm of ten acres, Mr. Robarts devotes to the production of vegetables, etc., for his private use. As Ferndale is only eighteen miles from the county seat and has its church and school, one can easily perceive that Mr. Robarts' judgment in locating himself was a good one. Mr. Robarts, although only twenty -two years of age, having been born in County Kent, England, May 30, 1860, is already a man of family, having in 1879 married Miss Amelia Francis, a native of Ferndale. They have two children, named Grace M. and Robert F. Robarts. Mr. Robarts came to California in 1876, he landed at San Francisco but soon came into this county where he started business as a butcher, but after eighteen months disposed of it and went out of active business until 1881, when he bought his present business and commenced to build his residence. He is the brother of Mr. Percival Robarts, whose biography will be found elsewhere. s. LEWIS SHAW. "Ferndale" is the name given to the beautiful residence of Mrs. Isabella Armitage Shaw, the wife of S. Lewis Shaw, deceased. The residence is an ornament to the county, and one of the handsomest of our illustrations. Mrs. Shaw devotes a large share of her time in beautifying the place. She has only one living child, named Joseph Armitage Shaw, who graduated at the State University in Berkeley, with high honors, and holds at present an important position on the railroad. The found home, whoso death the county moun native of Vermont, where he was born March 22, 1818. He was brought up on a farm until Eoi then learned the cabinet trade; but after finishing I ship, he thought that he had more lov for art than anything else, and therefore took lessons and became qui! pt at portrait painting and photographing. Before coming to California, he located in Nashville, Ten■ -. where he became aooiainte 1 with th.- hidy 1«- aftei wards married. He made the trip across the continent in a wagon train, and arrived in Sacramento in 1850, three months aftei ■ He mined for a while; but being unsuccessful, he wenl to San Francisco where he opened an extensive photograph gallery, which proved very successful. In 1853 Mr. Shaw was persuaded by his brother, who was one of the discoverers of Humboldt Bay and returned with glowing accounts about it, to dispose of his gallery and to settle in this county. He at first farmed near Table Bluff, but afterwards came to Ferndale where he acted as first postmaster. The village takes its name from his farm, which he named " Ferndale." Mr. Shaw died November 22, 1872. He was a kind husband and indulgent father. He had three children, two of whom are resting with him. Being an artist, he was not as successful as I he would otherwise have been at farming, yet he left a good farm of 160 acres, and succeeded in laying the foundation for a good home and competency for his family. The products of his farm are wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes. The orchard has fifty apple trees, all kinds of pears, peaches, plums, cherries, etc. GEORGE L. BENEDICT. That Ferndale is one of the nicest spots in Humboldt County is proven by the fact that there are so many good residences in and around it. Within the outskirts of the town, we find Mr. George L. Benedict's residence, which is one of the handsomest home°s that surround Ferndale. It is on the Rohnerville and Ferndale road, is delightfully situated near the foot-hills and is sheltered from the coast winds. Mr. Benedict was born in Otsego County, New York, May 2-2, 1842, on a farm; was taken to Broome County when seven years of age, and remained there on a farm until 1861. As soon as the civil war broke out, he left his home in order to participate; and he showed his love for his country by serving her until the war was over, in 1865. He was in the battled Bull Run and several other minor engagements. After the war Mr. Benedict returned to Broome County, but having acquired a desire for traveling, he visited several of the Southern States, and finally made up his mind to come to California. He left Broome County and arrived in San Francisco November 1. 1872, after a pleasant trip of thirty days' duration by the way of the Isthmus. Mr. Benedict was first engaged on a dairy ranch at Lake

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[92 BIOURAIMIK'AL 8KETCHES <>F CITIZENS. Tahoe, An. I finally, in 1*74, lived at "Little Nigger-head Prairie,'' after Laving previously visited this county, and findtog ''• w!i;i l< ired, came to his present home where he is engaged in dairying. He owns 1,000 acres of land, grazing and farming, quite a number of cattle and other stock. In 1881, Mr Benedict married Bliss Katie Dorsey, who is a native of Trinity 1 '< unity. California. PERCH M. w. BOBABT8. within three-fourths of a mile from Ferndale is the home and residence of Mr. Percival W, Roberts. His family consists of himself, his wife, formerly Miss. Florence N. Smith of Quebec, Canada, and their son, named Henry St. Albans Robarts. Mr. Elobarts' business is that of raising fine Merino sheep. His (lock is small, only fifty in number, hut of exceedingly fine stock of the Spanish Merino breed. They were purchased in Hay wards. Alameda < 'ounty.and thrive well in our county. At the late 9th District Fair, Mr. Robarts was awarded the first premium on all his sheep, his buck" Restless," being undoubtedly one of the best in the State. Sheepmen prefer home raised bucks to those raised in wanner climates. Mr. Robarts has quite a number of home-raised bucks on his farm, which are very fino animals. The farm consists of 262 acres of fine, rich soil, which produced at one time eighty bushels of oats per acre. There is a small orchard containing various kinds of fruit trees. Mr. Robarts came to this county in 1880. He is a native Of Kent, England, where he left in 1874; he resided in Canada before coming by the way of Panama, to California. The trip was unusually pleasant. A. PUTNAM. Mr. A, Putnam deserves to be mentioned amongst the enterprising residents of this county. He owns one of the attractive homes i„ the pleasant village of Ferndale, where he is engaged in merchandising. Mr. Putnam is a native of Nova Scotia, where he was born November 19, 1847. He was raised on 8 farm, but when fourteen years of age, went into the business house of his brother-in-law, where he remained until sixteen yean of age. In March, 1867, Mr. Putnam thought he might make his fortune in California, and accordingly left Halifax, and journeyed across the Isthmus toward the Golden State, Where he arrived in April, 1867, being just thirty days on the trip. So far as we can judge he has succeeded to his satisfaction in establishing himself in business, and has become a worthy citizen of his town and county. After landing in San Francisco Mr. Putnam went to the mines for a short time during the White Pine excitement, but made most of his fortune since in raising cattle and merchandising in this county, to whibh he came in 1870. He married Miss Mary Johnston' in 1S77, who was a native of Humboldt. They have two children named William Mason, and Edwin Putnam. JOHN ANDERSON. Mr. John Anderson was formerly of Alsen, Schleswig, Germany, where he was born February 5, 1846. and is now, a citizen of this county worthy to be mentioned amongst the enterprising men He went to sea when fourteen years of age, and was ten years before the mast, then was made an officer, which position he held five years. He visited all parts of the world, hut while stoping at Japan, resolved to settle down in California. Accordingly he took passage on the City of Tok io which made the trip in twenty-one days, arriving in San Francisco, June 2! I, 1874. He located at first on Mad River where he was engaged in sheep raising. In 1878, he made a visit to his old home in Germany staying ten months, and then came back and bought Mr. John Duncan's farm for §7,000, on Eel River. It is four miles from Table Bluff near the ferry on the Rohnerville Road, and easy of access to all parts of the county. There is a small orchard of thirty trees, forty acres of fine farming land cultivated, and 236 acres or grazing land in Mr. Anderson's possession. On his land he usually keeps twenty cows, twenty hogs, 400 sheep, and three horses. Mr. Anderson married Miss Mary C. Lind of Schleswig, Germany, in 1882. GEORGE H. SHAW. Undoubtedly all the people of Humboldt County will be acquainted with their genial County Assessor, George H. Shaw, who was elected by the New Constitution Party in 1879, and is holding that position still, to the satisfaction of his fellowcitizens. Mr. Shaw is a Kentuckian, born November 22, 1831, but had lived in several States before he came to California. He lived in Kentucky until 1836, in Illinois until 1846, and Iowa till 1852. From there he came to California by the way of Council Bluffs, thence to the north side of Platte River, Salt Lake, Humboldt and Downey ville, making the trip in six months, not without coming in contact with the Indians and the other general hardships attending such a journey. He mined in Downeyville and several other places with medium success. In 1860 he went to Virginia City, Nevada, where he was one of the first Councilmen of that city, in I860.' He held that honorable position for four consecutive terms, until he left the State, in order to come to this county. He established himself six miles from the county-seat in 1865, where he owns now a fine farm of sixty acres, and an orchard. He also owns 530 acres of land not cultivated. His home farm is of an excellent character, of free black soil, producing large crops averaging eighty bushels of oats, three tons of hay, and five tons of potatoes. He has at present twenty head of cattle, fifty hogs and six head of horses. In the orchard are 200 apple, ten cherry, and thirty plum trees. Mr. Shaw was married in 1872, to Miss Margaret A. Farrill, a native of Sonoma County, California. They have three boys: George Henry, Frank Clinton, and James Clifford Shaw

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS 193 GEORGE H. GRAY. Another thrifty citizen, Mr. George H. Gray, was born in Rush County, Indiana, November 30, 1832. When five years old, his parents took him to Illinois where they settled on a farm in Adams County, sixteen miles from Quincy. In 1854, Mr. Gray came by way of north side of Platte River, and Salt Lake, to California ; he had a pleasant journey, and arrived at Diamond Springs, October 4th, in the same year. He mined for three years at the Springs; realized $2,000 the first year and losing that amount in the next two years. Afterwards he went to Volcano where he had better luck, and left in order to take up a farm at Santa Rosa ; he stayed there until 1859, when he moved towards this county where he has been a citizen ever since. In 1869 Mr. Gray married Miss Martha C. Creighton ; she is a native Calif ornian, their two children are named George H. and Mary C. Gray. Mr. Gray now owns a farm of 275 acres, the land is black loam, with clay sub-soil ; it averages fifty bushels of oats, and twenty of wheat ; of potatoes, five tons per acre. His residence, which is pleasantly situated, is surrounded by an orchard of 300 fruit trees and bearing apples, peaches, plums, and pears, as represented in our sketch. It is within one and one-half miles of Hydesville, and twenty-five miles distant from the county seat. Mr. Gray is chiefly engaged in stock-raising, he owns at present 15 head of cattle, 18 hogs, 1,500 sheep, and 12 horses, also one mule. RICHARD JOHNSTON. The subject of this sketch was born April 18, 1822, in Eneskellen, Ireland. In 1841, with an older brother, the family emigrated to Sidney, New South Wales. In the year 1849 he came to California. San Francisco was a few scattered houses and tents. Gold was the one absorbing .topic. Every day 1 nought shiploads of people rushing for the mines. Vessels were deserted, and all hands went to the mines. Mr. Johnston made his way to Marysville from Sacramento in a whale boat and footed it up to Park's Bar and Foster's Bar. He was tolerably successful this year and returned to San Francisco. Here he decided to return to Sidney, and was eighty-four days on the way, calling at the Sandwich Islands. After remaining a short time he determined to return to California and took passage in March, 1850. On board the vessel he became acquainted with the lady who afterwards became his wife. On his arrival he was married to Miss Mary Lancaster, of Lancashire, England,- who was accompanying a married sister to her husband then in California They were sisters to John Lancaster, now owner of Belton Grange, owned at one time by the Tichborn family. Mr. Lancaster and his brothers are owners of large coal and iron mines, and manufacturers of steel. One of her brothers is considered an expert in the manufacture of Bessimer steel. Mr. John Lancaster was the owner of the yatch Deerkound, and rescued a part of the crew

194 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. go <.n or="" not="" and="" being="" carried="" in="" the="" affirmative="" they="" proceeded="" result="" was="" had="" cause="" to="" regret="" it.="" their="" wat="" gave="" out="" with="" swollen="" tongues="" toiled="" on="" would="" undoubtedly="" have="" perished="" if="" a="" slight="" shower="" providentially="" fallen.="" every="" expedient="" resorted="" to:="" for="" durp08eof="" saving="" few="" dropsof="" that="" precious="" fluid.="" at="" night="" lay="" down="" tracks="" rising="" sun="" only="" revealed="" them="" another="" day="" desperation.="" of="" water="" provision="" iated="" altogether="" what="" food="" fortune="" threw="" way.="" mr.="" etobei="" non="" delaware="" indian="" as="" guide="" some="" distance="" advance="" main="" party="" following="" trail="" defined="" by="" an="" occasional="" bean="" which="" must="" dropped="" prom="" o="" dilapidated="" iaol="" preceding="" killed="" small="" bird="" duck="" species="" almost="" instantly="" devoured="" without="" removing="" feathers="" subjecting="" it="" action="" fire="" eventually="" last="" resort="" horses="" head="" found="" spring="" thus="" ended="" sufferings="" me="" engaged="" mining="" several="" years="" fair="" success.="" then="" went="" elk="" valley="" del="" norte="" county="" where="" orescent="" city="" now="" stands="" took="" up="" acres="" farming="" land="" vessel="" arriving="" from="" east="" about="" time="" loaded="" freight="" passengers="" made="" things="" lively="" soon="" town="" crescent="" sprang="" up.="" mrs.="" robertson="" child="" joined="" him="" december="" way="" isthmus="" panama.="" after="" thirteen="" prosperity="" he="" concluded="" remove="" eumboldt="" arrived="" may="" camping="" present="" location="" his="" ranch="" having="" brought="" large="" number="" cattle="" making="" permanent="" home="" selling="" ofl="" stocking="" sheep.="" contains="" between="" deeded="" nearly="" all="" under="" fence.="" april="" one="" surveying="" road="" around="" is="" known="" whitmore="" bluff="" van="" duzen="" river.="" part="" wishing="" cross="" deep="" ravine="" could="" save="" long="" trip="" jumping="" across="" logs="" partly="" over="" got="" who="" though="" fifty="" always="" felt="" young="" active="" anybody="" jump="" forwards="" five="" feet="" down.="" something="" give="" within="" him.="" those="" near="" noticed="" change="" face="" pain="" weakness="" became="" sick="" vomited="" some.="" taken="" house="" lying="" never="" moved="" again.="" loss="" deeply="" family="" but="" wide="" circle="" neighbors="" friends.="" interest="" public="" improvements="" open="" hand="" forwarding="" same.="" liberal="" fault="" kind="" sympathetic="" neighborly="" intercourse.="" died="" fifty-eighth="" year="" age.="" since="" has="" been="" jennette="" successfully="" affords="" pasture="" sheep="" fine="" quality.="" four="" children.="" elder="" son="" alexander="" jr.="" sheepraising="" garberville="" this="" children="" doing="" well.="" located="" overland="" stage="" seven="" miles="" bridgeville="" post-office="" surrounding="" country.="" lorenzo="" painter.="" many="" go-ahead="" enterprising="" men="" humboldt="" painter="" conspicuous.="" born="" columbiana="" ohio="" farm="" lived="" till="" seventeen="" age="" when="" left="" kalamazoo="" michigan="" traveling="" foot="" eighteen="" months.="" cass="" learned="" carpenter="" trade.="" afterward="" buren="" mercantile="" lumber="" business.="" started="" california="" drove="" fifteen="" months="" wintering="" river="" napa="" july="" bought="" santa="" clara="" raised="" crop="" sold="" returned="" business="" south="" haven="" short="" running="" two="" vessels="" there="" chicago="" starts="" second="" coming="" railroad="" san="" francisco="" thence="" steamer="" bay="" rio="" house.="" looking="" country="" eel="" place="" called="" mineral="" prepared="" accommodate="" parties="" seeking="" pleasure="" resort.="" natural="" inducements="" draw="" visitors="" are="" surrounded="" mountains="" shut="" cold="" fogs="" hunting="" fishing="" bathing="" sailing="" see="" view="" half="" section="" equal="" any="" mostly="" level="" orchard="" trees="" most="" kinds="" fruits="" well="" berries.="" ha3="" forty="" hogs="" eight="" horses.="" married="" miss="" elizabeth="" bourman="" native="" ohio.="" girl="" named="" louisa="" jackson="" sawyer.="" sawyer="" mooresburg="" montour="" pennsylvania="" scotch-irish="" parentage.="" old="" both="" parents="" adopted="" into="" very="" worthy="" kerr="" remained="" until="" twenty-one="" during="" practical="" farming.="" fond="" books="" access="" much="" better="" library="" than="" common="" houses.="" like="" boys="" hi="" thought="" life="" farmer="" too="" slow="" plodding="" resolved="" become="" machinist.=""/>

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BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. 195 He went to Pottsville, a mining town in the anthracite coal regions of Pennsylvania, and worked about one week when one of his eyes was cut by a piece of steel from a chisel which destroyed the sight. In the spring of 1852 he worked in the rolling mill in Danville. The iron business at this time was not very good and he set out for California, taking the Panama route. The passage to the Isthmus was pleasant, which he crossed partly by railroad, and by boat, and on foot. He arrived in San Francisco May 2, 1853 ; after remaining in the city three or four days he went to the Weaverville roinesi by boat to Sacramento, thence by stage to Shasta, and on to Clear Creek. He worked with rocker with very moderate success, and health failing he left for San Francisco. MR. SAWYER ARRIVES IN HUMBOLDT. About August 1st, he started for Humboldt Bay to work for James T. Ryan, where ho worked but a short time. At Eureka he engaged to work for a man, called " Long Jones," in 1852. After somo three hours' sailing they arrived at his cabin, a sort of connecting link between a cabin and a wood pile. Jones' place was a boating point at that time. He kept a boat and carried freight and passengers to and from Eureka, as the trail around the bay in winter was almost impassable. Settlers from Eel River Valley would turn their animals into Jones' pasture and go by water. Freight at that time was S7 per ton. Jones kept a few staple articles for sale, such as salt pork, sugar, and flour. The supplies were not very abundant in the grocery line, as much of Jones' coin was spent on cards and whiskey. Flour was sold that winter as high as S40 per barrel. In the winter of 1853-54 he gave S200 for a claim to the place now known as Hookton. He thought as he was not able to do hard work, that in the course of time, it would grow into a place of business that would afford a living. He didn't think the place of much value for farming but put in a crop of six acres. He improved the shipping facilities as fast as required. During the summer of 1855 the Government had the land surveyed. The Land-office was at Marysville. He inquired of the Surveyor what he would-be required to do to secure the prospective business point of Hookton. He directed him to enter the high land, the marsh being fractional it would be thrown on the high land. But failing to secure the shipping point he lost all interest in the place and traded it for a better and the heifer for a hive of honey-bees, valued at $60. He then .cured a pre-emption on the 100 acres where he now lives, making various improvements as fast as his means would pet^TnTe 'were several favorite camping places for the Indians on the bay side of Table Bluff. They never remained Jong* any one place, moving around sometimes for fish, at other "mes for clams or whatever might suit their ancy When moving by water they used canoes to carry their goods, but if by land the squaws were made to serve as beasts of burden. All the trouble the whites had from the Indians in this section was their stealing and constant begging. They were always cold, always hungry, and could never get enough for what they had to sell. If the Indians judge the moral standing of the white race by the conduct of some white men of early days, their estimate must be low. One of the annoyances of pioneer farming was the large flocks of crows and blackbirds. They picked up the grain .lnii sowed and often the ground required to be resown. One of the greatest troubles of those days was tin; bears. They I i,p I no respect for a fence but would tear it down whenever they came to it. They were very destructive animals to have on a farm, eating and tramping through the grain, rolling down large patches as flat as a floor. Bears were very fond of pork and they could dispose of quite a large hog at one meal. Whatever remained after their hunger was satisfied they always covered up with fern or grass or whatever else came handy. It was no pleasant amusement to get out nights and help the dogs scare the bears from the hogs. He says he " recollects one night he had to get up three times for that purpose. He always found them willing to run and he was always willing to let them go." CHARLES S. COOK. One of the energetic business men of Humboldt County is Mr. C. S. Cook, who was born March 12, 1846, in Tompkins County, New York, who like most of the early emigrants to this country by the overland route suffered almost incredible hardships while on their way seeking to obtain a competency and a home in this land of gold. His boyhood life from the age of sixteen until twenty-one was spent on the Michigan Central Railroad, running from Detroit to New Buffalo. Afterward we hear of him in Morrow County. Ohio, from whence he starts for the Pacific Coast, in February, 1852. On May 1st we find him at St. Joseph, Missouri, on the way with an ox-team which he drove across the plains, which at that time was a great undertaking, consuming almost four months* time, arriving at Foster's near Oregon City, August 22, 1852. He was attacked with the cholera on Green River and came very near dying. His first business was mining on Althouse, in Southern Oregon, where he met with good success. He came to Petrolia, Humboldt County, in 1859, and engaged in dairying and raising stock. He has a very productive farm of 1,600 acres, turning off yearly five tons of butter and from 800 to 1,200 bushels of oats, and about forty tons of hay. It is located fifty miles from the county seat, 150 miles from railroad and two from church and schools. He has an orchard of 150 trees of apples, pears and plums. He has 1 50 head of cattle, thirty hogs, eight horses and two mules. He married Miss Ann E. Walker, who was a native of Illinois, in 1857. They have two boys whose names are Levant and George W. Cook.

196 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. J. G. KEN YON. J. G. Kenyon was born in Upper Canada, of American parents, on the 23d of March, 1833. He then removed with his parents to York State when about two years old. When about fourteen years old he commenced giving ventriloquial entertainments, and traveled extensively through the northern States and Canada. In the year 1855 he came to California and traveled through all the mining camps and towns of California, Oregon and Washington Territory. In the year 1857 he purchased 800 acres of land in Eel River Valley, Humboldt County, and settled there. In November, 1809, he invented the fluid pencil, or what is substantially the same, and now known as the " McKinnon Fountain Pen." Mr. Kenyon holds letters patent for the pencil. In May, 1858, he started for the Frazer River mines, during the first gold excitement. When he arrived at Victoria, B. C, he abandoned the idea of going to the mines on account of unfavorable reports, and then went to Puget Sound, Seattle, W. T., and invested in town lots, which are now in the city of Seattle. In the year 1850 Mr. Kenyon went to San Francisco and entered into an agreement with Messrs. Whitelaw & Hawley by which they were to run their steamers regularly between San Francisco and Eel River for the terra of two years, which was the first establishment of Eel River navigation. In this he met with many discouragements, and in order to induce the parties to undertake the venture it became necessary for him to advance considerable money for the construction of a warehouse and wharf at " Port Kenyon," which derives its name from Mr. Kenyon. He also sold lots to about thirty families on which they have built homes. In March, 1870, he started the first cash store in Humboldt County, south of Eureka, and has continued in the general merchandise business ever since. The steamers having ceased to run to Port Kenyon, he removed his store one and a half mile

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flnmYP rAP» np «a*«IELT.Y0UMAN,500ACRES,0KL NORTE CO. CAL "JOSEPH G.ANTHONYS HUME & MILL. SMITH RIVER VALLEY.DtL NUR It UJ. CAL.

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BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS l'.'T lots and bui ineas houses which are illustrated in this work and more fully described elsewhere BE ■••.! wiin < AMI n Benjamin Campton was born June 8, 1849, in Wisconsin, and came to California when but three years old, so that it may be said that he is almost a native of ' lalifornia Hi . as most others who came by the overland rout.-, had a tedious time, being six months on the way, and with others, ca by the Fremont route, arriving at Shasta City Septembi 1852. His first business was general farming, which he run. tinuestill the present time. In 1857 he went to Rohnerville Humboldt ( lounty. He farms 100 acres of laud, consisting of black loam, with clay bottom and is very productive, averaging sixty bushels of oats, sixty bushels of barley, and forty bushels of wheat per acre. It is located twenty-two miles from the county seat and one-fourth mile from church and school. He has a 'chard of 100 trees, consisting of apples, pears, plums, cherries and peaches. He usually has on the place about ten head of cattle, ten hogs, and eight horses. In L873 he was married to Miss Sarah Melissa Kay, a native of Michigan. They have four girls named Mussadora, Gertrude, Lucy and Pearl Campton. WILLIAM CAMPTON. William Campton, a pioneer resident, was born near Mineral Point, Lafayette County, Wisconsin, November 13, 1840, where he was engaged in farming and stock-raising. He came to the Pacific Coast by way of the Fremont route, meeting with the usual hardships of a journey across the uninhabited country, much of it a desert, to this land of plenty, arriving at Shasta City September 25, 1852. In 1857 he came to Rohnerville, in this county, and has followed tannin- ever 9ince he arrived in the State. He has 160 acres of rich, black loam land, giving an average yield of forty-rive bushels of oats or barley, and i hirty-tive of wheat per acre. He has an orchard of 150 trees of apples, pears, peaches, plums and cherries. He generally keeps ten hogs, ten head of cattle and about a dozen horses. He married Miss Ellen Lihdley in 1874, who was a native of I rregon. They have two children, one boy and one girl, named Benjamin Forrest Campton and Ada Louisa ( lampton. The farm is located twenty-two miles from the county seat and only one-fourth mile from church and school, thus possessing many advantages for residence. si. I'll KIN MAN. One of our most striking illustrations is that of the noted Seth Kimnan ami his " buck-horn chair" which was presented by him in person to President Buchanan. This celebrated hunter and presidential chair maker was a native of Union County, Pennsylvania, where he was born September 20, 1815. In April, 1S49, he left his home with rifle. Colt's six-shooter, knife and fiddle. On the journey he acquired the title of « Arkansaw " from the fact that he could play the " Arkansas Traveii i than any and visited thi m concluded that •. 9 full of gold taken out, would not bh much after a while, so he turned hii ion to hunting. In the spring of 1850 hi joined Maj >i compan] on ite « a; prospecting I bi 'I i inil j R 1 1 r In the fall of 1850 he returned Easl and in 1852 he me to California and pushed immediately foi Huml It 1 He madi a contract with Col. R. C Buchanan to furnish meat, ol bear and elk for thi Fort, which i acl he faithfully cuted He made a second visil Easi and returned in October, 1854, to this county and built a small house, where Hon .1 Rurs now lives, and afterward took up a small place Dear Table Bluff, for his mother's home. In the spring of L855 he up a ranch on Bear River, which was near a pond still called (tinman's Pond. Here he resided and acquired his skill at chair making, which gave him national renown. We learn that Mr. Kinman is preparing a history of his life for publication, and we deem it best to only ^w- the above brief outline of his career. KINMANS CHAIB ON EXHIBITION. The chair received many flattering notices from the San Francisco press, where it was on exhibition at a fair. Some leading gentlemen of that city, among whom was Peter Donahue, took charge of the matter and procured a free passage both for the chair and Kinman to Washington. The San Francisco Herald, in speaking of the buck-horn chair, concludes as follows: — "Seth Kinman is about as extraordinary as the chair He is the beau ideal of one of the. advance guard of civilization, or Rocky Mountain hunters, being in the prime of life, over six feet high, a large pair of whiskers, buckskin pants, ditto coat, and a heavy bowie-knife attached to a belt around his waist. Here." says the Herald, " is part of his conversation while showing the chair: 'Anybody can make a cheer, but I take credit for the design of this, I kill deer and elk meat up in Humboldt County. My range is from Bear River Valley into Oregon. This winter I killed considerable meat, so I thought I would take it easy and set about making this cheer with the view of sending it to Washington for "old Buck." After I got it finished though, the boys up there in our parts thought it would do to travel on, so I thought I would try and a0 on with it to Washington myself, and left my mother and four children behind and started with nothing but my rifle and powder-horn- Nobody has ever sot in this cheer and never shall till after the President does. I was told that they would help me get through with it, and here I am to see. If they don't why I will have to put back to Humboldt County. I would like to see the President though, and I have several friends in Washington. Jim Denver is an old friend of mine; it was him who recommended me to go in Humboldt County

I'JH BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. I,,, game< Hen thi cheer gentlemen; the more you thi I.' ii' I you'll like it.'" i in Bl ' i HOBN CHAIB PBB8EN1 1 I The Washington Union, May 23, 1857, says: "Tin- handome buCB horn chair which was brought from California by Beth tinman, of 1 1 iimbol.lt County fa real Rocky Mountain hunter), waa presented t.h is afternoon to the President of the dnited States, in the presence of a large number of delighted spectators, not a few of whom were ladies. Mr. Kinman w&s the observed of all observers, and many were the complimentary remarks that were made of him. [mmediately aftei bheenfcrance of the President Mr. Kinman was introduced to him by General Denver. Mr. Kinman thereupon addressed the President briefly, and feelingly, alluding to the reverence in which he held him as a statesman, and expressing the pleasure with which he hailed him as Chief Magistrate of the Union. ■' He himself was a Pennsylvania^ and was born in Uniontown. When quite a youth he had gone to the Great West, since which time he bad been a pioneer. He had twice crossed the Rocky Mountains and had come to the city of Washington with that chair, pointing to the curiously-fashioned massive antlers at his side, which was securely fastened with iron of their own State, Pennsylvania, to present it to the President, and he hoped that he would accept it." "The President responded in the courteous manner for which he is so distinguished, and said that he had no doubt that Mr. Kinman was honest and sincere and brave like the people of the frontier, to which he belonged, who could be led by kindness but never could be driven by force. He would accept the chair with a great deal of pleasure, and would keep it as a women to of the occasion. He would now sit down in it. It is needless to add that in the act of sitting he was loudly applauded. General Denver then introduced to the President Dr. O. M. Wosencraft, of California, who spoke on behalf of the Californians." The chair occupied a central position in the celebrated east room, and was the greatest attraction of the President's mansion. The Washington letter-writers to the papers throughout the country spoke of it in the highest terms. In Frank Leslie's newspaper for June 3, 1857, the front page is devoted to a picture of Kinman and his buck-horn chair. He is represented in full buckskin rig, rifle, powder-horn, etc. He stands in an easy and natural position, reclining on his old rifle. The chair occupies a separate cut. Our portrait is from an original photograph. Seth Kinman, in return for his buck-horn chair, presented to the President, received a Government appointment to assist in removing the Indians in California and Oregon to their reservations. Kinman made a chair out of elk-horns which he took to Washington and presented to Abraham Lincoln, in 1804 He made one out of grizzly bears' remains and presented it to Andrew Johnson in the White House, September, 1865. The next was made of elk-horns and presented to President Hayes in 187 1 i HON. JAMES E. MUBPHY. The Hon. James E. Murphy is acting Judge of the Superior Court of Del Norte County, having been elected to that arduous and responsible position in 1879, for a period of five years. Although he has but fairly entered upon the duties of the office, it is the unanimous opinion that a wise selection has been made by the voters, and doubtless the position which he occupies will prove a creditable one to himself and satisfactory to the people who elected him. He is a lawyer of acknowledged ability, and has proven himself the possessor of those noble traits which enables him to easily discriminate between right and wrong. He was born in Calais, Maine, January 12, 1840. He is of Irish descent, his ancestors having emigrated therein 1816. He moved with his parents to Del Norte County in 1860. Here he attended the public school at Crescent City for one year, when having become proficient in all the studies taught in the public schools in that place, he was sent by his parents to St. Thomas Seminary, an ecclesiastical college situated then at the old Mission Dolores, San Francisco. Here he remained about four years, receiving a thorough classical education. He afterwards taught the public schools at Crescent City, Smith River, and Happy Camp. Happy Camp being a mining town, he taught school during summer and mined during the winter. In 1866-67 he read law and was admitted to the Bar before Judge Turner. He is not only learned in his profession, but is a gentleman of superior literary tastes and acquirements. In 1867 he received the nomination for District Attorney by the Democratic party and was elected. In 1869-70 he represented Del Norte and Klamath Counties in the Assembly. In 1871 he was again elected District Attorney for Del Norte. From 1873 to 1878 he represented Del Norte County in the Legislature, occupying the position of Speaker pro tern. during the last two sessions. He was the author of the Bank Commission Bill, which has worked incalculable benefit to the people of California, At the election of delegates to the Convention to revise the Constitution of this State in 1S78, he was chosen delegate to that body, which assembled at Sacramento and framed a "New Constitution," which was adopted by popular vote of the people. There is probably no man in the State of the age of Judge Murphy that has been elected to so many responsible positions as he has. He is now thirty-six years of age, and has been a member of the Legislature at four sessions, thrice District Attorney, once a Constitution maker and now a Superior Judge.

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BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS 199 EDCJAB MASON. Edgar Mason was born in Cape Girardeau, Missouri, May 17, 1849. While yet an infant, in IS52, his father's family emigrated to the Golden State, crossing the plains an.l arriving at Marysvilli: in the fall of that year. The next year they came to Crescent City, then a thriving little village just budding out and bidding fair to be a rival to the largest city in the State. At that time Crescent City was in Klamath County, out of which Del Norte was carved in 1857. What education Mr. Mason received was in the public schools of Del Norte County which in those days were under the management, at different times, of several able. professors, some being graduates of Yale College and Edinburgh University. I [e htts made Crescent City his home ever since the time of las first arrival in 1853, with the exception of an absence of two years when he was in the lower part of the State pursuing the study and practice of dentistry for which profession he was educated. In the year 1870 he returned to Crescent City where he first commenced the practice of dentistry for himself. He was married in 1871 and settled down for a quiet, steady, uneventful life. Although he has met with success as a dentist, yet the small income which was derived from the practice of that profession was not sufficient to keep up his expenses, and ill-health having overtaken him, he was in a measure forced to abandon that business as a means of livelihood. Havin" devoted some time to reading law, he was elected District Attorney of his county in the year 1875, which office has occupied his time until now. During the six years he has held the position, he has contributed largely to the advancement of local interests. He has met with unprecedented success in the prosecution and conviction of criminals in Del Norte Before his election it was often said, « if you want to commit a crime go into Del Norte, no one is ever convicted there " He was instrumental in sending six men to the State Pnson in the year 1880. It is a notable fact that not a smgle cinnnal prosecution for a crime amounting to a felony has been necessary for about eighteen months last past. Mr. Mason is one of the prominent and permanent c^ns of his county. He has always been a Democrat. He is a ll/of the Masonic fraternity, and has filled the hrghest positions in his lodge. FRANK BURTSCHELL. Frank Bnrtsehell was born in Germany in 1825. residing on a farm till twenty-two years of age, .hen he eame to New York City in 1846, where he lived for two year . n 1848 I went l New Orleans, and from there to Philadelph.a, and Ne York in 1851; from there he went baek » *™»* " ying si. months-, then returned to the State of New Ym-k t 1852, remaining for one year; then started for Cahforma C waVof Niearagna ronte, coming to San Frane.seo m the fall of 1853, where he stayed two years. In 1355 he went to Weaverville and kept a restaurant with good success; after a year and a half came to Del Nort* County in 1856, and was in the Cushing House for four months. He then bought the house and has been engag. keeping a hotel since. He has a farm of 644 acres in Smith River Valley, eighteen miles from county seat, one mile from the mouth of Smith River, three-fourths of a mile from school, and five from church. His farm is for dairying; keeps ninety head ^f cattle, sixty hogs and four horses He has an orchard of 150 trees of various kinds. He was married to Miss Eliza Brougham in 1860, who was a native of Ireland. In 1865 he married Miss Carolina Mosher. They have six girls. Among our illustrations will be found a view of the hotel of Mr. Burtschell, situated on Front Street, Crescent City. This hotel is now first-class in every particular. A few of its advantages are that it possesses extensive facilities for accommodating a large number of guests, and is provided with large and well-ventilated rooms and excellent beds. The proprietor's long experience in attending to the comforts of the traveling public will not fail of appreciation. We advise any one visiting Crescent City to make their home at this hotel. HENRY WESTBK""K. Mr. H. Westbrook is one of the active and prominent farmers of Del Norte County, having derived his knowledge of farming in early life in Germany, and many years of practical farming in Del Norte County. He was born in Westf og, Prussia, in 1829; he left his native home at the age of twenty, and landed in New York City in April, 1849. He came direct from New York to Naperville, Du Page County, Illinois, where he engaged in farming for three years. In April, 1S52, Mr. Westbrook started overland for Oregon. The mode of travel was by ox teams exclusively; this slow mode of travel required much patience for that long distance of five or six months. When on the Platte River, that dreadful disease, cholera, made its appearance among the company, and the road was frequently marked with the grave of one of its victims. He continued with the company until they reached Salmon Falls; here he started in company with four others ahead of the ox train; making good time, he reached Oregon City in October, 1852. He remained here only about two months, when like many others who had cast their lot in Oregon, he started for the gold mines of California; he arrived at Sailor Diggings, Oregon, in the latter part of December, 1852. Sailor Diggings was then one of the lively mining camps of the Pacific Coast, but provision was very scarce? and Mr. Westbrook and many others lived on nothing but acorns and wild meat for two months. He remained at Sailor Diggings for one year; the Rogue River Indians being very troublesome, he returned to the Willamette Valley, where he remained for two years, and again returned to Sailor

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100 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. before Mr. Westbrook arrived at Sailor Digging bhi Ro n "■ [ndiai I ii and indism I itantt*. Hei th niner and killed with h pick here the defi ■■■■ omen were bomaha •■ I ed in bbeii hou es and fcheii chilfln n brain eta hi d again I all i nch atrocious erimi ••'!' too horrible fdi fclfe abject of ou] ketch to pas* by without iv enting arid hi enlisted the tn c( da} as .•■ soldier to fight the Indian Thi wai lasted For S months, and Mr westbrool being un uccessful in mining he resolved to quit bbe mines. Became to Smitb River Vallej and took up a part of the ranch bhattie uow owns The original tractof land was 160 acres, but In' has added to hu Farm until he has L.60U acres, fifteen mil.-, from Crescent City, ISO miles from any railroad; '•"i haswateri imunication with the entire world, the Pacific Ocean being the western boundary of his land. II'' has the best arranged dairj ranch in northern California, his churning being done with water-power from an overshot wheel, the water being brought a distance of three-quarten "i a mile, He also raises wbeat with an average yield of forty bushels t<> bhe acre. On his dairy ranch he milks 225 COWS which produce 32,000 lbs of butter annually It is not to bo supposed that Mr. Westbrook has lived alone all this time; he was married to Mrs. O'Laughlin in 1856. Mr. Westbrook has two sons, William and Henry: William, the oldest, like his father, is engaged in farming and dairying, while his second son has chosen the legal profession. He is a ^"m" man of bright intellect and promising future, and will no doubt win laurels of which his father and mother mav feel justly proud. .1 G. \\Tlhi\ 1 •I.

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iidvSkt Ct^< DIST. ATTY. \,£^^\JU SUPERIOR JUDGE OElNlMTO COUNTY OFFICERS ASSESSOR / TRBASURcfc

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BIOGRAPHICAL sketches of CITIZENS. 201 were lost, and arrived in San h May 15, 1858. He came to this county in L858, residing in Crescenl City one year, driving team in a logging camp. II- then located on a farm three miles from the mouth of Smith's River, where he has 200 acred of prairie land, very rich, producing, on ana-, age, eighty- five bushels of barley and eighty bushels of oats per acre. It is located eleven miles from the county seat, three miles from water communication, 2 from railroad, one from school house ami three from church. He has a productive orchard of 120 trees of different varieties. He has rented his ranch, but reserves his residence. He has 100 head of cattle and five horses. He married Miss Ruth Sweat, in 1842, who was a native of Albany County, New York. They have one boy and three girls. Their names are Alvenia Harriet, Amanda, and May E., who are married. Samuel Youmans remains at home with his parents. FRANCIS FRANCIS. Francis Francis, of Ferndale, a pioneer settler, was born in Wales, in the year 1818, and came to the United States in L841, and went to work in the coal mines of Pennsylvania. He became tired of the Eastern States, and determined to find a home on the frontier of the far West, and in 1843 he arrived in the town of Galena, Illinois, and went to work in the lead mines near that town, where he worked for about three years, when he married an excellent young lady of English birth and good parents, the daughter of his partner in business, and for two years lived very happily in Galena and then moved to Kentucky, where he remained until 1850 when he returned to Galena with his family, and when he saw them comfortably settled and provided for he started to the new gold-fields of California. Traveling across the plains in a wagon takes all the romance out of that part of one's life. Once on the way provisions were short and they were obliged to go on half rations for five weeks, until they could get a fresh supply. It required about six months for the trip, and he arrived at Nevada City in the fall of 1850, with rags around his feet, his boots having worn out, destitute of clothes and dead broke. He then said if California would only afford him enough to eat and wear he would be satisfied. He began to look around and first went to work on Gold Run, but soon tired of that, thinking more could be made elsewhere. About this time his wife and little girl came to California by the way of Panama. This journey was full of adventures from the first, but the roughest experience was at Panama. One steamer had arrived the day before with 1,200 passengers, and their steamer had 1,000 passengers aboard; and of course every available conveyance was quickly engaged, and it was her lot to ascend the Chagres River in an opcu°canoe, which took a whole week, and at the end of this long, tiresome journey she was obliged to sit all night in a terrific rain-storm with hei little girl in her lap, and no protection but an umbrella. The next day she crossed the mountain- on a mule aud went aboard the steamer Tennessee which brought her safely to San Francisco Those were the days of slow mail communication, and although she had written some time I he had not received the letter, and she was much disappointed at not meeting her husband. But being e brave little woman, she made her way to Nevada City where her husband was much surprised and overjoyed to meet her. Here they lived very happily for six years Mr Franci for some time prospected on the Yuba, but without BUCC He then went to Shelby Hill where he took a claim which turned out tolerably well. He was one of the firm which brought the Snow Mountain Ditch to Nevada I lity, and was partner with the Lillard boys in the Nebraska Mine, and also owned an interest in the Cayuga Mine. Hearing of the wonderful resources of Humboldt County he sold all his possessions in Nevada County and started for Humboldt, and with his family landed in Areata, then called Uniontown, in 1856. In a short time concluded to settle where the town of Ferndale now stands; but it then was \ i tv sparsely settled. He bought a claim of S. W. Shaw, of San Francisco, and also took claims adjoining. Ferndale is built on the northwest corner of the claim. FERNDALE WATER- WORKS INTRODUCED. He did some farming and kept from eight to ten cows for dairy purposes, and when the town began to grow he supplied customers with milk. Water being scarce in town, and there beino- plenty of water on his place, he built tanks and began to supply the town with water in 1875. The next year he built a reservoir and laid pipe down to town, which is about a quarter of a mile. In the spring of 1877 Mr. Francis died, and the business, which has been increasing every year, has been managed by his wife, and now almost the whole town and some in the suburbs are supplied from this reservoir. FTRST CHILD BORN IN FERNDALE. They had a family of ten children, six of whom are living. Eugene Francis, Mrs. Clara Brice, which was the first white child born in Ferndale, Mrs. Amelia Robarts, Henry Francis, Frederic Francis, Decima Francis. The youngest is about sixteen years old. The farm contains 220 acres, and is designated as "Brook Farm," and forms one of our illustrations. Forty acres of the place are farmed, 100 acres are pasture land and the rest timber land. A tenant has twenty cows on the place, conducting a dairy. Mr. Francis was County Assessor in 1868-69. J. HETHERINGTON. Among the residences of Eureka will be found the home of J. Hetherington, who is a comparatively new-comer of Humboldt County, where he arrived April 7, 1877. He was born

202 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. in Carlisle, England, and came to America at an early age, ing in the town of WebBter,Wbr» i ' mnty, Massachuffe served bis adopted country during the late war, in the Twenty-first Regiment of Massachusetts Volunteers. Since coming to Bnmboidt he occupied the store on the corner of F an

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. 203 Mr. Freese leaves a wife and three children to mourn his loss. The sympathies of the public are extended to his sorrowing family in their bereavement. Mr. Freese's name frequently occurs in the early history of the county, and his record, either private or public, is of spotless purity. He was a member of the Common Council of the city of Eureka at the time of his death. He was elected County Treasurer in 1861, and wa«* a member of the Board of Supervisors in 1869. His wife and three children, Benjamin F., Adele A., and Charles W., are living in their own residence in Eureka. FREDERICK AXE. Frederick Axe was born in Philadelphia, January 17, 1840. From the age of nine to that of fourteen years, the principal opportunities of education of his life he obtained from the public schools of the time. At the latter age he engaged as an apprentice to the business of silver plating, in which he was employed until at the age of twenty-two, when he enlisted as private in Company " C," Second Regiment of Infantry of Pennsylvania Res., belonging to what was known during the war as Governor Curtin's pet division. Under this command his Hrst ten months in the "tented field," proved no holiday service, having shared the heat of conflict in the battle of second Bull Run, and the fierce encounters with the enemy during the seven successive days and nights in the execution of Gen. McClellan's order for change of base from Chickamauga to Harrison's Landing, at the camp near Fredericksburg, Virginia. He got a discharge from his company on the condition of joining another arm of the service, which he did, by enlisting in Battery " M," Second Regiment, U. S. Artillery, on the 10th day of December, 1862,. for the period of three years. On the expiration of his full term he received his discharge from the regiment, .Lieut. Col. William H. French, commanding, indorsed with the highest testimonial as to character that could be awarded to a soldier in the ranks. An official list of twenty-two battles and skirmishes in which Mr. Axe was engaged while in this command accompanies his discharge. With an aggregate of four years "to the front" in the bloody field of the Rebellion, though luckily he survived without a memorial scar of the strife upon his person, it may be said with equal truth, that during the long period of that severe experience, not a single act of dishonor or reproach is recorded against his reputation as a soldier and a man. °The close of the war found Mr. Axe in California, where for the first two years he served in the position of horse guard at San Quentin* Prison, after which he settled at Eureka, Humboldt Bay, where he has acquired a moderate property, and permanently established his home. In the private relations of life Mr. Axe is noted for his retiring modesty of manner, and in his home circle as an affectionate husband and father. He was married at Eureka, October 29, 1^>73, to Laidee, daughter of E. H. Howard, Esq., and has a family of three children EUREKA POST-OFFICE. Recommended by the leading influence of the community without respect of political distinctions Mr. Axe was commissioned as Postmaster of Eureka, Feburary L0, ls7.». J. A. I Ireswell being Postmaster-General. During Graut*s administration, the office became one of the third class, to be filled bj Presidential appointment, ami his subsequent commissions, under President R. B. Hayes and C. A. Arthur of dates November 8, 1877, and January 7, 1882, respectively, is a sufficient recognition of the thorough competency, as well as 6delity, with which Mr. Axe has discharged his trust. The following editorials from the press of the city may fitly conclude this sketch. "To say that he has been an efficient officer will scarcely express it. We have never known him to lose his temper on a single occasion. He is always affable and courteous — has a pleasant word always upon his lips, and is ever attentive and obliging. His manner of conducting the business not only meets with the approbation of the peopk but he has received many flattering testimonials from the department for his attention, promptness and correctness. Wedo not know of a single man in our community as well calculated to fill the position. He has caused to be constructed in Eureka City a fine building, especially designed for a post-office. He has done this wholly at his own expense, and it is an ornament to the city, and a monument to the enterprise of the builder. ' * * Great credit is due him.and we know our people will award him all praise." — Times Weekly. "For the erection of this fine building we owe much to the worthy zeal and spirit of our efficient postmaster, Mr. Fred. Axe." — Bern. Standard. This fine structure is represented on another page in connection with the residence of Mr. Axe. JOSEPH PORTER ALBEE. J. P. Albee, a pioneer of Humboldt, was born in Huron, Ohio, May 20, 1815, and was raised on a farm. In 1838 he settled in Michigan, and in the fall of 1847 moved to Illinois, and in 1850 came overland to California with three men and two four-horse teams, and engaged in mining in Hangtown with good success. He came to Humboldt in 1852 with a band of cattle. He went to Weaverville and came back with his family, in November, 1853, and settled on Table Bluff, where he kept a hotel, as mentioned on page 182. In 1855 he had a pack train running from Areata to Klamath, and in 1855 removed with his family to Redwood Creek where he planted a large orchard, built a large hotel, and accumulated a handsome fortune. His early life in the western wilderness made him familiar with toil and privation. His indomitable spirit qualified him for a successful pioneer of Humboldt. He married Miss Caltha Putnam in August, 1839, who was

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204 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. a native of Huron County, Ohio. The family consisted of !„„, ;„ , and tout girl* Anna II, Electa L.. Mary C, Sophia, Dflnie] |, Joseph C, Lincoln H, and (V.r-e B. Albee. He was a ma,, of the puree! private character among his friends and neighbor He waa kind and humane to the Indians and bad no i > being killed He always rode a gray horse, and said the Indian, knew him and the horse and would not shoot him. MURDEK OF J. P. ALBEE BY INDIANS. " Not contrary to the expectation of many people on this Bay, news reached Areata of the probable murder of J. P. Albee, by Indians, at his farm on Redwood. He left his fam,|V iD Areata on Saturday, November 1, 1862, going alone to hig place, with the intention of looking after his stock and I ;,l ing care of his farm. This was the last seen of him alive. On Thursday following, about noon, Mr. Faulkner and a man in bia employ named Ramsey, went from Minor's place down bo Albee'e in search of mules. When they came near the house they saw a squaw on the lookout. She gave the alarm immediately when she discovered the two men. Five bucks were then Been to break from the garden, running towards the road above where the two men were, with the intention of outtulg them off Faulkner and his companion succeeded in getting ahead of them, however, and were getting well out of reach when they were fired upon by another Indian who had headed them off. They were passing under abank, and within , i,w Eeet of the Indian when he fired, but fortunately missed his aim, the ball whizzing in frightful proximity to Ramsey's head. This much for them. After they had gained the hill they looked back and discovered the house on fire. Not knowing that Albee was at his place, Faulkner went on to Hoi »pa Valley. From there news reached Areata on Saturday when a party started out immediately in search of Mr. Albee. They found all his fine improvements, the labor of years, in ash.s, and a few hundred yards from the house, close to his plow, where he had been at work, pierced with two bullets and an arrow, they found the body of J. P. Albee. He had evidently been dead for several days. He was buried where he was found, not being in a condition to move. The subject of this melancholy sketch was no stranger to the people of this and adjoining counties. He came here with his family in 1853, lived a while in Eureka, from whence he moved to Table Bluff. Not finding sufficient range for his stock there, he moved to Redwood in 1S56, since which time he had resided there with his family. He had ever been a warm friend to the Indians, and so confident was he that they regarded his friendship, it was with difficulty he could be induced to allow his family to be moved into town, after so many frightful massacres had taken place in localities less exposed than his own. He leaves a wife, one married and three single daughters and four boys to mourn. In many respects Mr. Albee was a remarkable man. Unaided by education, he was a man of force of character and great strength of will. No obstacles in his path deterred him from the one idea of executing what he undertook; no argument could change a once established opinion. His judgment was eminently sound, his integrity unquestioned. Peace to his ashes. .TAMES C. SMILEY. J C. Smiley one of the earliest settlers and member of the Society of Pioneers of Humboldt County, was born in the city of Brunswick, Maine. Leaving his native State, he took passage to California on the bark Sarah Moore, and after a passage of six and a half months, arrived in San Francisco about°the first of February. 1850. Like most young men who came to the State at that early date, Mr. Smiley had marked out his plan of operations for the immediate future, and to leave out of it the usual venture of mining enterprise would fall short of filling the " bill." He accordingly went to Wood Creek, in Tuolumne County, where one season's trial with sluice and rocker proved quite sufficient, to the end of rewarding him with lots of experience, but with little of the " dust." Returning to San Francisco, he remained there eighteen months. He came to Humboldt Bay on the bark General Wool. Here he at once entered upon the erection of a saw-mill which, after its completion, in 1854, was known as the Smiley & Bean Mill. While Mr. Smiley's interest was connected with this mill it was twice partially burnt, and while engaged in putting on the roof the second time he marvelously escaped damage from the explosion of the boiler beneath, which otherwise left its wreckage about the premises of shattered machinery and timbers. Mr. Smiley immediately went to San Francisco, where he purchased a new boiler, which was shipped on the brig Judson, Ross, master, and at last (such were the aspects in those days of coast navigation) after a passage of seventy-eight days, was landed at Eureka. After the mill was again put in running condition, Mr. Smiley sold out his interest. In 1863, in company with Frank S. Duff and the late Alonzo Monroe, he went to Reese River, Nevada, the company taking with them the machinery for the lumber manufacturing business in that place. This enterprise did not prove a success, nor did that of quartz-mining, in which he afterwards engaged, sufficiently satisfactory to keep him away from Humboldt, to which place he returned in 1865, where he has since permanently resided. By profession Mr. Smiley is a house and sign painter. The desisns and executions of the numerous works in the lastnamed branch of his art, to be seen in the city, are the highest testimonials to his skill, which, of the former, the principal hotels and private residences of the place, done under his contracts and supervision, are abounding proofs of the taste and thoroughness of a master in his profession. No one of our citizens is more highly respected for the generous and exemplary traits that belong to his private life, nor

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BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. 205 any on.; leas ambitious of the tempting emoluments and honors that may attach to official position. Mr. Smiley is a bachelor, and with the exception of what is excluded by that term, is living m the enjoyment of all that an ample fortune can command. JAMES E. MATHEWS, J. E. Mathews is one of the stirring business men of Eureka, who came in 1*71, and opened a variety store and news depot, and has conducted a profitable and constantly increasing busim J. E. Mathews was born in the city of New York, February 22, I sir.. His early life was that of newsboy, in New York and Brooklyn, and with his early energy he was the first to arrive in Brooklyn with extra Heralds containing the news of the firing on Fort Sumpter in 1861. The first money he earned was in selling the Brooklyn Eagle. In 1858, the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher had him arrested for striking him with a " shinney block " or ball. It was the custom of the boys while waiting for the Eagle to be issued at three o'clock to go on Columbia Street Hill and play " shinney." Rev. Beecher generally came along about that time, and one day young Mathews accidentally struck the reverend gentleman, who grabbed him by the coat collar and took him up to the top of the hill and turned him over to a policeman, but no charge was preferred for the boyish sport and accident. During the war he was employed on steamers running from New York to Havana, Mexico, New Orleans and Charleston. In April, 1865, on the coast of Florida they met a gunboat painted lead-color, but on returning from Havana the same boat was painted black, with Hag at half-mast. From this tug they first learned of the assassination of President Lincoln. On arrival in New York City the body was lying in state and an immense number of people in line, extending from City Hall to Battery, to view the remains. In 1864, while in Havana, he was offered by a lady, the' situation of overseer on a plantation in Mataurus, Cuba. But on account of age, being only nineteen, and a dislike to leave his native country, he declined the position, although every inducement was held out to him. He afterwards worked in a glass factory as glass blower. On an hour's notice he set out for California from New York, December 10, 1867, and arrived in San Francisco January 23, 1868, on the steamer Constitution. He engaged in business on steamers running from San Francisco to other ports on the Pacific Coast. He was engaged in selling charts of Grant and Colfax and Seymour and Blair, in San Francisco, in the fall of 1868, and came to Eureka in March, 1871. His early life and later experience has peculiarly adapted him for the business in which he is now engaged. He married Miss Linegar, in San Francisco, in 1S73, who was born in Australia, but arrived in California at the age of six months. They have three children, named Ella Rose, Charles James, and Mary Gertrude Mathews. ALON'Zo HONBi Alonzo Monroe, a pioneer, was horn October 21, 1821, in Fan- Haven, Connecticut He waa left an orphan a< ind went to New York < 'itv to live with his grandmother. He learned the engineers' and machinists' trade in the Novelty Iron Works. He went to New 0 nd followed his profession until 1849. He started from (here in 1*4'.' in a schooner for California and arrived in San ■ o in bvi.ru arv. L850. He proceeded to the mines of Feather and Yuba Rivers. He was oftentimes very successful and as often lost all. He came to Humboldt County in the fall of 1851, as a volunteer to right the Indians. He returned to Trinity County, where he followed mining until 1853. He then engaged in butchering in Weaverville and Ridgeville until 1855, when he came to this county permanently. He was one of the Supervisors of Trinity County in 1855. He married Miss Anna ML Albee October 7, 1856, who a native of Hillsdale, Michigan. There are -ix children, named Joseph Porter, Alonzo Judson, John W., Charles \ . Horace P., Nettie S., Henry W. T., ami Caltha J. E. Monroe. Mr. Monroe drove a band of cattle from Oregon in 1856, and settled at Table Bluffs, and the next year drove them to Bear River. He sold a part of them and engaged in merchandising in Hydesville, under the firm, name of Manheim & Co. Mr. Hyde gave them an acre of land if they would build a store on what was then called " Goose Prairie." He removed with his family to Eureka in March, 1861, and there remained until August, 1863, when he went overland to Reese River, Nevada, driving two span of horses. He discovered and named a good many mines, among them " Eureka." He endured in these trips incredible hardships incident to a new country. One night camping in the sagebrush without fire or food he lay down in his blankets and suffered from the intense cold. He sold his mines in Nevada for a good price and returned to San Francisco in 1870. He built a hotel on the corner of Second and E Streets which was burned January 1, 1876, and rebuilt of brick in April of the same year. He was a very resolute and courageous man, and no ordinary discouragements would keep him down. He was honored as a man of public spirit and integrity. He was stricken with paralysis in 1875, which affected his mind of late years, and gradually failing, he died March 20, 1882. The funeral obsequies were attended by an unusually large number of citizens, both at the church and at the grave. The remains were attended from the residence to the church, and thence to the grave (The Eureka Cornet Band acting as escort) by Humboldt Lodge, F. & A. M., and the Humboldt County Pioneers. The funeral services at the church were of a most appropriate nature, and at the grave the beautiful burial service of the Masonic Order was observed.

206 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF CITIZENS. 8. G. WHIPPLE. Captain S. G. Whipple, one of the early settlers, commenced the publicationof the Northern Oaliforniam a1 I nion in 1858, and merged with the Times in I860, In 1803, during the Indian troubles, lie was commissioned as Major of the Battalion of Mountaineers, and was afterward promoted to a Colonelcy. At the close of the service he was nm »ten -A out, and placed in charge of the Indian Reservation at Hoopa as agent, serving a term in that position; he then enlisted in the regular army, as Captain, and Ls now stationed at Fort Klamath. JOHN BURMAX. John Burman, one of the old pioneers, was drowned in Mad River, at the crossing of the upper old trail, on the 1st of March, 1857. The deceased came to this bay early in 1850, with the party that came up the coast in the Cameo. The party landed at Point St. George, present site of Crescent City, and he with Nelson Jenkins, Van Thulen and Peterson coasted down in whaleboat in search of the mouth of the Trinity, the object of all the numerous adventures cruising about this coast at that date. They ran into Eel River, supposing it to be the Trinity, and then returned to their party, and afterwan Is the deceased piloted the schooner J. M. Ryerson into Eel River, the only vessel that had ever been in there. He was one of the original parties who located and laid off Union, and resided there. He was a native of Sweden and about thirty-three years of age at the time of his death. WILLIAM HARRISON WOODBURY. William H. Woodbury was born at Salem, Essex County, Mass., Feb. 2, 1839. At the age of fourteen years, shipped before the mast, on the barque Gay Head, of Boston, bound for Australia, the Society Islands and California. He arrived in San Francisco in the spring of 1854, where he left the vessel aud worked at painting, paper-hanging, and such other work as he could obtain. After working about a year he became restless ashore, and shipped for sea again, and continued until the latter part of June, 1855, on the steamer America, at which time the steamer was burned in the harbor at Crescent City. He then lived at Crescent Cit}', where he engaged in boating and whale-fishing until 1857, when he engaged as clerk in the grocery store of F. Nauke; here he continued until 1861, when he engaged with Dr. H. Smith and Wm. Coburn in salmonfishing, near the mouth of Smith River. The flood of 1S61 and 1802 came and washed fishery buildings, boats, and everything to sea, leaving nothing to show where the fishery had been. He next started a small cigar and stationery store, and after carrying this on for a few months he entered into a copartnership with T. S. Pomeroy in the grocery business, which was continued until the death of Mr. Pomeroy in 1865, since which time he has been carrying on business by himself. During his residence at Crescent City he has held several offices, having been elected Constable at twenty-one years of age, and afterward Justice of the Peace. He was appointed postmaster at Crescent City June 12, 1865. He was assessor of Del Norte County for seven years, and became thoroughly acquainted with its resources. He is active in all the secret and benevolent societies, and is a leading member of the Masons and Odd Fellows, as well as the United Workmen. He was married to Elmira Fleming June 12, 1S65, and has three children — girls, aged fourteen, twelve and ten years. WILLIAM SAVILLE, ESQ. William Saville first saw the light of day in Old England, being the eldest son of an eminent British barrister. In early life he pored over the pages of Blackstone, but being of a roving, rollicking disposition, he abandoned the law office for " a life on the ocean wave and a home on the rolling deep," which latter occupation he followed for several years, graduating from an ordinary seaman to sailing master. He, however, getting tired of a seafaring life, landed in Crescent City in the year 1853, being then about twenty-eight years of age. Since that time he has been engaged in various occupations, and has filled many positions of public trust. He was one of the first Supervisors of Del Norte County, and has served one term as District Attorney of said county, and while practicing at the bar is said to be a very effective and exhaustive talker. His hearing having become somewhat impaired, owing to the effects produced from the bursting of a cannon in close proximity to him in some naval engagement while in the British navy, he forsook his lucrative practice at the bar and now occupies the position of Treasurer of Del Norte County, which he has filled for several successive terms. He is a whole-souled fellow, and his hand is always open to the needy. He resides in Crescent City, although he is largely interested in business in other parts of Del Norte County. J. K. DOLLISON, NOTARY PUBLIC, Court Commissioner, Real Estate and Loan Agent, and Conveyancer. CITY LOTS, FARMING AND TIMBER LANDS FOR SALE. OFFICE:— No. 139 Second Street, Vance Block, Eureka, Humboldt Bay, California. ATTORNEYS OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY. The following is a complete list of the attorneys of this county as they appear on the roll of the Superior Court:— James Hanna, C. G. Stafford, W. H. Brumfield, S. M. Buck, J. J. DeHaven, J. D. H. Chamberlin, G. W. Tompkins, R. B. Dickson, J. H. G. Weaver, G. W. Hunter, Ernest Sevier, E. W. Wilson, J. M. Melendy, T. H. Foss, Jr., J. K. Miller, P. F. Hart, G. W. Hopkins, E. G. Anderson, A. J. Monroe, R. W. Miller, James N. Shibles.

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PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY. 20'; Humboldt County Common Schools. First School, Present Condition, Private Schools, Financial Prospects, etc. The early educational interests of Humboldt County have no obtainable statistics. Suffice it to say, the first organized free school was at Areata (then Union). This district was organized in 1852, with fifty pupils, while Humboldt County was a part of Trinity County. In the school year ending October 31, 1854, there had been three common schools, or public schools, kept in the county, as per report of school officers. There were 186 children of age entitled to school money. In the district of Union (Areata) there had been a school taught nine months by Mrs. A. E. Roberts. In the district of Eureka there had been a school kept three months during 1853, by George W. Gilkey. In the district of Bucksport there had been a common school kept three months by Miss Louisa Wasgatt. In addition to the public school at Union there had been a private school kept for a portion of the year. Hon. A. J. Huestis was elected Superintendent of schools in 1855. In November, 1855, Bucksport school district was organized, including Bucksport, Table Bluff, Pacific, and Eel River Townships. Maj. E .H. Howard succeeded Heustis, and during his administration the formation of new school districts was the principal matter of interest, and procuring suitable teachers. It was a matter of great interest in early times when mails were uncertain, to get the Superintendent's reports to the State Department in time to secure the county's share of the State money. FIRST SCHOOL DISTRICT. In 1856 there were only three schools organized under the common law: one at Bucksport, one at Eureka and one at Areata At Bucksport the citizens erected a fine school house, which answered the purpose of a village church. The second story had been been finished off by the Masonic fratern ty for then meetings. At Eureka, also, there was a school budding^ Areata had not shown an equally public spirit in this respect, although a school had been kept once and the number of pupils was greater than a. the other places. But the next year Messrs. Jowby and Martin of the Trustees purchased Mr. Henry White's house for the sum of S900, one-half in hand, one-half insixty days and had caused the same to be temporarily fitted up for the reception of the school, and it was occupied bv Mr. Dusty as a school house in 1857. Henry H. Severns was the next Superintendent. He reported in 1S60 the total number of districts as nine; the number of children in the county 502; moi from the State, $803.04; and the expenditure fur all >chool prj T.036. Rev. \V. L. Jones was the n< xt Sup as an energetic, earnest Superintendent, and did mucli Wools. At present he is at Hile, Sandwich Islands, in charge of a private institution. J.B.Brown was appointed Superin when the R*.*v W. L. Jones resigned, after which he was eli continuously until he refused to accept the office. Too much cannot be be said of J. B. Brown as a teacher and Superintendent, for fourteen years he had charge of the schools in Eureka. These schools have flourished and prospered under his supervision. These schools compare favorably with schools <>t the larger cities of the State. E C. Cummings, the nest Superintendent, had been engaged for several years as teacher in various parts of the country. Previous to his term of office he had been a member of the Board of Education, he was re-elected to the office. E. C. Cummings had no opposition to the office at the BrsI election At the close of his officialt erra he withdrew from the profession. Perhaps no county in the State has developed more than Humboldt during the last decade. Twenty-four school districts included all Humboldt County could boast ten years ago; now she has fifty-six, and employs eighty teachers. The school affairs of the county are now ably managed by J. B. Casterlin. For 1882, the Superintendent apportioned from the State School Fund, of Humboldt County, the sum of SI 58.50 to each teacher assigned to the several districts, an. I an additional sum from the same fund, of $7.95 per capita on the average daily attendance as shown by the last annual report. Ten per cent, of the State Fund of each district was set apart for library purposes. There was also apportioned from the County School Fund, $13.50 per teacher. The following is the total apportionment: — No. of Districts 56. State. $25,403,08 Library. S2.326.77 County. $1,066.50 DUTIES OF COUNTY SUPERINTENDENTS. The powers of the County School Superintendents are greater than they were in the beginning. In 1855 they were required to aid the School Trustees in the examination of teachers-a duty which would have been rather hard to perform in case two or more Boards of Trustees had held examination at ten o'clock of the same day. County Superintendents are now required: To apportion all school moneys; to report to the State Superintendent on blanks furnished ; to fill all vacancies in the Boards of Trustees by appointment ; to draw requisitions for all warrants on the school fund ; to visit schools; to preside over Teachers' Institutes, and to secure the attendance thereat of competent lecturers; to issue temporary certificates in certain cases; to preserve all school reports, and to grade the schools. The County Superintendent is ex officw Secretary and member of the Boards of Education.

208 THE CLIMATE, RATS-FALL, AXD FOGS. Climate as Affected by Wind Currents and Fogs. Healthfullness, Fogs, Rain-fall, Temperature, Meteorological Table, etc. The climate of Humboldt County differs considerably from most, any other county in the State. It^resente many phases, and even within a few miles there can be found wonderful diversities, not to say extremes, of climate. Along the coast the atmosphere is always more or less laden with moisture, and the winds are almost constantly blowing, hence it is necessarily cold in that section at all seasons of the year. Just inside the first range of mountains the air is shorn in a measure of its moisture, but is still damp enough to keep the temperature reduced greatly and to make it really the most pleasant place in the county to live, it being that happy mean where the wind is shorn of its chilling fog, and the heat of the midsummer's sun is tempered by passing through a stratum of moist air. Farther in the interior the air is shorn of all its moisture and becomes arid and parches the vegetation as it passes over it. The summer's sun pours its unimpeded rays into those valleys in a merciless manner, as if fully determined to prove to mankind that it can shine more fervidly to-day than it did yesterday. And yet it is not so very disagreeable, and those accustomed to it really enjoy its pelting rays. On the coast the usual fogs of the summer season set in about the first of May. This phenomenon is of almost daily occurrence till the middle of August, and is an important factor in the growth of grass and crops along the sea-coast. About the first of May the trade-winds set in from the northwest and prove a great agent in the modification of the climate on the coast, serving to reduce the temperature wherever it penetrates among the valleys of the interior. These are the breezes which bear on their wings the burdens of mist and fog which are so refreshing to the growing vegetation along the coast, making the season much longer in that section than farther back, and adapting it for grazing and especially for dairying purposes. These great fog-banks form every day off the land, caused perhaps by the meeting of cold and warm strata of air. In the afternoons this fog comes inland with the breeze which commences about noon daily. This moisture-laden air is not deleterious in any way to the health of the inhabitants along the coast, except, perhaps, those affected with lung or bronchial troubles. It is a fact, on the contrary, that the most healthful portion of the year is that in which the fogs prevail. These fog-banks spread over the country in the afternoons and continue all night, but the early morning sun is apt to dispel them. Sometimes, however, there come several days in succession when the sun is shut out from the view of man altogether along the coast. It is then generally dreary and cold, and the wind whistles and 3ighs through the branches of the giant redwoods in a mournful, disconsolate sort of way, and the dash of the breakers against the rocky strand gets to be a very melancholy swash, monotonous and irksome, and the heart of man longs for a gleam of sunshine almost as the prisoner pines for liberty. But it is not always thus gloomy, for there are many days, during the season, of unexcelled beauty and loveliness — days when the sun shines in unalloyed brightness from out the blue empyrean of heaven's own vault, mantling the world in a sheen of silver. The following table showing the range of the barometer and thermometer at Humboldt Bay was prepared for this work by W. P. Day kin, Esq.: 1878 1879 1880 Months. Barometer Thermometer Barometer riic-i mom' etcr Barometer Thermomotcr. January.. February. March . . . April .... July August . . Septemb'i' October. . November Decern ber. Average 29.30 29.30 31.00 30.00 31.20 30.00 31.24 31.00 30.00 30.00 31.00 31.00 49 50 53 54 58 59 62 61 59 61 54 50 56 31.00 2S.00 31.00 30.00 31.00 30.00 31.00 30.30 30.30 31.00 30.00 31.00 47 47 51 55 56 57 61 61 56 57 50 49 54 31.30 29.30 31.00 31.20 31.30 30.00 31.30 31.00 30.00 31.00 30.00 29.30 49 45 49 48 53 55 61 61 57 56 50 52 53 The average rain-fall is much more in Humboldt than in San Francisco or Sacramento. It is a fact, there never has been a year yet when the crops and grass were an entire failure for want of rain. The season of rain in this section may be said to commence in October and end in May. It is rare that it rains more than a day or two at a time, and the intervals range from a few days to several weeks. This is truly the beautiful season. According to the rain record of R. E. Foster, at Bucksport, the rain-fall for ten years has been as follows: — 1873 23.45 1874 36 66 1875 22.95 1876 43 03 1877 28.18 1878 5094, 1S79 21.02 1880 ....4802 1881 38.61 1882 38.19 The average rain-fall for the past ten years was 35.11 inches. The average fall, in inches, for the seasons and the year at different localities is: Places. Spring Summer Autumn Winter Year San Francisco .... Sacramento Humboldt Bay. . . 6.64 7.01 13.51 0.27 2.74 .13 .00 1.18 1.30 .55 3.31 2.61 4.87 .86 1.24 11.33 12.11 16.23 .72 5.60 21.41 21.73 35.79 3.15 10.43 Snow is very rare on the coast and in the valleys, and never remains for many days except in the Klamath Valley, where there is sometimes a month's sleighing during the winter.

IOARLY AND MODERN MODES OF BU8INE8S. 209 Business in Early Days. First Express Lines, Post-Offices, Ferries. Bridges, and Modes of Travel. One of the indispensable institutions of the early days was the mounted express. Without it business could scarcely be earned on, so slow was communication by means of packtrains. The express consisted chiefly of letters, papers, golddust, and small packages, all goods of any bulk or weight being carried by the packers. There was no post-office until 1853, and all mail was brought and carried by the express companies. At first the price for each letter carried to Trinity was three dollars, and half that sum for a newspaper. FIRST EXPRESS LINE. The first express ever introduced into the mines of this county was when A. E. Raynes began to run between Trinidad and Bestville in the spring of 1851. Before that the people had been completely isolated from the outside world. Occasionally a few letters were brought in by a pack-train and others carried out. FIRST POST-OFFICES. In June, 1853, the following offices were appointed: Union, H. H. Murdock; Eureka, H. W. Bean: Bucksport, J. Clark; Trinidad, L. B. Gilkey. But no provision was made for transporting the mails other than the small receipts of offices. Mails were very irregular, often were received only once in four weeks. Leland & McComb were the pioneer express men of Humboldt Bay. They ran an express from the bay to Crescent City, Gold Bluff, etc., and John N. Utter was Superintendent. In 1854, Adams & Co. established an Express and Banking House in Areata, and fitted up a portion of the County Clerk's office for that purpose. It was under the superintendence of B. H. Wayman. It ran daily from Bucksport via Eureka to Union. John Vance, Esq., was agent at Eureka. Messrs. Filley & Co. commenced in November, 1854, to run an omnibus from the steamboat -landing to Areata. Strawbridge & Co. established an express in 1854, having a route from the towns of the bay to Klamath, Trinity, and Salmon River mines. Messi-s. Chism & Co. brought into the county, in 1857, the first Concord Coach to r.un between Eureka and Eel River. FIRST FERRIES AND BRIDGES. In the spring of 1851, to accommodate the travel between Trinidad and the Salmon River mines, a ferry across the Klamath some five miles below the mouth of the Trinity was established on the regular road to Bestville. The proprietors wece Gwin R. Tompkins and Charles McDermit. Thisferrj was placed in charge of a man named Blackbui n. and was usually known as Blackburn's Ferry. H. W, Lake, in 1861, constructed a wooden bridge across the Trinity, Deal the hotel in Hoopa Valley. It was fourteen feet wide and considered a substantial structure. John F. Martin put up a wire suspension bridge across the Klamath in 1861, three miles belovi Weitchpeck, at a cost of about §4,000. Length of span in clear, 298 feet, width, eight feet, height above water, ninetyone feet. It is a fine and substantial structure. PACKING TO THE MINES. Packing to the Salmon and Trinity mines from Trinidad began in 1850, and among others engaged in it were E. P. Rowe, Abisha Swain, Charles McDermit, Charles D. Moore, F. F. Marx, and E. W. Conner. Over 400 mules left Areata in the week ending April 11, 1857, loaded for Klamath, Salmon, Trinity and Hoopa Valleys. Six hundred mules, heavily freighted, left Areata during the week ending August 1, 1857, for Weaverville, Trinity, Klamath and Salmon, at an average of 275 pounds to the animal. The amount of goods taken out by these 000 mules would be 165,000 pounds. This gives a good idea of the extent of the early packing trade of Humboldt, which is still conducted quite extensively from Areata. OVERLAND ROOTE. During the season of 1873-4 the Legislature authorized Humboldt County to issue bonds for the construction of a road from a point about eight miles east of Eureka to Round Valley in Mendocino County. This road was known as the Kneeland's Prairie and Round Valley Road, and was completed under this act as far as Blocksburg, a distance of seventy-four miles. It was afterwards extended to a point 100 miles southeast from Eureka. The amount of bonds issued for the construction of the road was 8125,000. The road is ten feet wide, with turnouts fifteen feet wide, and fifty feet long within sight of each other. By the terms of the contract all curves were required to have a radius of thirty feet. The completion of this highway has been very serviceable to the county in the way of inducing and affording facilities for immigration. It is traversed daily (except Sunday) during the season, from April to December, by the stages of the Humboldt and Mendocino Staae Company, which bring the United States Mail through from San Francisco, the schedule time being three days in summer and four days in whiter. The Humboldt and Mendocino Stage Company has laid out a large sum of money in fitting up and equipping the route, and have succeeded in making it popular. S. F. Bullard, of Hydesville, is Superintendent of the line. Bullard & Sweasey are the proprietors.

210 SECRET AND BENEVOLENT ORGANIZATIONS. Secret and Benevolent and Literary Societies. Masons, Odd Fellows, Good Templars, Knights of Honor, Sons of Temperance, Workmen, etc. THE county has a good class of inhabitants, and in habits of bhriffcand industry are far ahead of many other counties in the Sfcate. Society is, however, somewhat divided into groups, caused by the great mixture of nations and habits of life. In curly times people were more united and harmonious in their associations, The early settlers well remember the long trip taken to visit a friend. Since the organization of the county, the population has slowly but steadily increased. BOC1ETY, PAST AND PRESENT. In early times society was disorganized, and disagreements among settlers were common, but of late years peace and quiet have been the rule. In early times the settlers were without the thousand attractions and comforts of a home, cut off from the pleasures of Hociety and association of ladies, living in hotels, boardinghouses, cabins, back-rooms of stores, offices, and, in fact, in all kinds of unattractive places. It is no wonder that the early miners and business men turned eagerly to the amusements of the .lay for the needed relaxation. Saloons, with their clinking glasses, convivial songs and inviting music, were among the first adjuncts of a new town. The miner, when his day's work was done, the merchant, when released from the busy cares of trade, the happy delver who had " struck it rich " and came to town to spend his 'pile," as well as the penniless "bummer" all sought the cheerful rooms where music and liquor were plenty, and where the games of chance formed an attraction, even to him who simply watched the fitful changes of fortune. Music was in demand, and he who had any instrument from which he could invoke harmonious strains was certain to find an opportunity to do so for an ample remuneration. Violins, guitars, and other light-stringed instruments that were easily transported, were the first to find their way into the mining camps. The place that was able to secure anything approaching to the magnificent proportions of an orchestra was certain of an overflowing patronage. Gambling saloons were the first to don fine raiment; even when in shake buildings with canvas walls, an attempt was made at ornamentation, to render them attractive to the eye, and inviting by contrast with the general crudeness of their surroundings. Church organizations were slow in forming. They came next after the secret societies. Among the first organized were those about Areata and Eureka. FREE AND ACCEPTED MASONS. The Free and Accepted Masons erected a neat and eligible hall at Bucksport in 1854. The lower part was occupied as a school-room. In 1856 a lodge was organized in Areata. The Masonic Lodge at Areata celebrated the 24th of June, 1856, by a procession in regalia from their hall to the church, where an address was delivered by A. J. Huestis, of Bucksport. There was a ball in the evening at Murdock's Hall, and a supper by Capt. Ball, of the American. The Masonic Lodges of the county united in celebrating the 24th of June, 1857, at Eureka, the Areata Lodge joining them on the steamer Glide. At the school house an appropriate address was delivered by E. H. Howard, Esq. Eel River Lodge was instituted September 11, I860, at Hydesville under dispensation of N. Green Curtis. The financial condition of this lodge is good, and has expended large sums for charity. All the lodges are in a flourishing condition. The following is a list of Masonic Societies of the county, with the time and place of meeting and officers for the first of the year 1882:— Myrtle Lodge of Perfection, No. 10— 14th Degree— A. and A. Scottish Rite of Freemasonry. Stated meetings on the first Monday of each month at Masonic Hall, Eureka. S. M. Buck, T. P. G. M., J. S. Murray, Jr., Secretary. Regular Convocation of Humboldt, R. A. Chapter, No. 52, meets at the Masonic Hall on the second Monday of each month. John A. Watson, M. E. H. P , W. P. Hanna, Secretary. Humboldt Lodge, No. 79, F. and A. M., will hold their stated meetings at their hall, corner of Second and G Streets, Eureka, on the first Thursday evening of each month. J. D. H. Chamberlin, W. M., John S. Murray, Secretary. Eel River Lodge, No. 147, F. and A. M., will hold their stated meetings at their hall in Rohnerville, on the first Saturday evening of or next preceding the full moon. S. H. Crabtree, W. M., F. B. Simonds, Secretary. Ferndale Lodge, No. 193, F. and A. M., will hold their stated meetings on Saturday evening on or next succeeding the full of the moon in each month at 7:30 o'clock. K. Geer, W. M., James Howard, Secretary. ODD FELLOWS' LODGES. The Odd Fellows annually celebrate the organization of the fii'st lodge of the order in the United States, Washington Lodge, of Baltimore, No. 1. This was chartered by the Manchester Unity, February 2, 1820. Since that time over 1,000,000 persons have been initiated into the order in America. The introduction of Odd Fellowship into California in 1849, by the formation in Sacramento of an Odd Fellows Association for the relief of the destitute, is one of the brightest pages in the history of the State. Since then the order has grown to giant proportions here, with more than 20,000 members. April 25, 1859, was held the first celebration of the Odd Fel

SECRET AND BENEVOLENT ORGANIZATIONS. 211 lows of this county, consisting of the two lodges of Eureka and Areata. At eight, o'clock in the morning the procession formed in front of the Hall, in Eureka, and preceded by the Eureka Brass Band, they marched through the principal streets of the town, when they embarked on the steamer Glide for Areata. Arriving in Union at eleven o'clock, they were joined by the members of the order there and all paraded through the streets, making a fine appearance. The procession then moved to Masonic Hall, where Anniversary Lodge, No. 85, I. O. O. F., was organized. At two o'clock they went to the Methodist Church, where an oration was delivered by Mr. Benedict. Humboldt Lodge, No. 77, is located at Eureka, and was organized September 6, 1858, being the first of the order in the county. Its stated meetings are held at its hall every Monday night. For the first few years its growth was slow, and its members had many adverse circumstances to contend with. Eventually they were overcome, and subsequently its career has been one wherein its usefulness has only been equaled by its prosperity. Its membership numbers 218 persons, and the value of its property, consisting of a fine hall, real estate, cash, etc., is about $15,000. The aggregate sura disbursed by this society for relief and charity is 818,479,00. Mount Zion Encampment was organized on the 24th of May, 1867, at Areata. It was removed in 1872 to Eureka. The total membership at the present time is eighty-seven. The property of the lodge is its lodge-room, furniture, securities and coin, in the total value of $3,110, and the disbursements of the lodge in the dispensing weekly benefits and other fraternal contributions since it was organized are $9,201. Its stated meetings are at Odd Fellows Hall, corner 2d and F Streets. Fortuna Lodge, No. 221, was organized August 30, 1873, and holds its regular meetings in the hall of the I. O. O. F. With a record of 135 members, $9,000 in coin, bonds and mortgages; $19,562 disbursed in charities, the society may well be called benevolent and prosperous. Eel River Lodge, No. 210, was instituted October 15, 1872, at Rohnerville, by authority of a dispensation granted by A. C. Bradford, then Grand Master, D. D. G. Master J. E. Wyman officiating. A goodly number of brothers from Humboldt and other visitor* were present. The greatest number of members at anv one time was eighty. Present membership, thirty-five. In 1876 about fifteen members living in the vicinity of Hyoesville withdrew from this lodge for the purpose of forming a lodge in that town. This they did, and it is known as Hydesville Lodge, No. 250. The lodge owns a good hall. 28x60 feet in size, and a well located and laid out cemetery. It isfree from debt and its property is valued at $2,632.00. It has distributed in benefits, charities, etc., about $3,000. The Odd Fellows in Eureka are making preparations to build a Hall which will serve as a permanent meeting place for lodges and the Encampment. Contract let to J. Simpson for $18,9o0. The American Legion of Honor meets at their hall in Eureka. The objects of this order are to unite fraternally all persons of sound bodily health and good moral character who are socially acceptable and between eighteen and sixty-rive years of ageTo give all moral and material aid in its power to its members and those dependent upon them. To educate ite members socially, morally and intellectually. To establish a fund for the relief of sick and distressed members. To establish a benefit fund from which, on the satisfactory evidence of the death of a member of the order who has complied with all its lawful requirements, a sum not exceeding $5,000 shall be paid to the family, orphans, or dependents, as the member may direct. There was a lodge of the Legion of Honor instituted at Ferndale in July, 1881. Bay City Lodge of United Workmen was organized, June 21 , 1879, and it has now eighty-three members. Its objects and aims are the promotion of a fraternal feeling among its members, and to provide for the families of deceased members by paying $2,000 at the death of each to the widow or other relative. Several lodges are now organized in the county. Humboldt Bay Mutual Relief Association is in a flourishing condition. The following prominent citizens are Directors to serve for the ensuing year: William Carson, C. F. Roberts, John A. Watson, George Graham, C. W. Long, J. H. G. Weaver, H. Dorman, Thomas Vance, H. Kingston, H. Connick, I. R. Brown, J. D. H. Chamberlin. Lincoln Lodge K. of P. was organized and dedicated under auspices flattering to the cardinal aims of the order: "Friendship, Charity and Benevolence." Its stated meetings are held at the Pythian Castle, on the southeast corner of 3d and E Streets, Eureka. There are fifty-seven members in this lodge. Its property consists of lodge-room, furniture, money and mortgages, equal to $3,725, and its financial condition is prosperous. It has expended for beneficiary and charitable purposes $4,250.25. The Knights of Pythias of Eureka and Areata united in a grand hurrah time. The occasion of the celebration being the installation of the officers of North Star Lodge> No. 39, of Areata. After the conclusion of the proceedings the Knights partook of supper at Richert's Hotel, over 100 persons being at the table. It is said that this was one of the largest gatherings in the history of fraternal societies of the county. Aurora Lodge K. of P. meets at Ferndale, and we believe there are other lodges in the county in flourishing condition among them Lincoln Lodge, No. 34. Humboldt Bay Council A. S. of H., was instituted at Eureka July 23, 1881. Eureka Branch of Land League was organized March 15, 1881. It has seventy members, and its meetings are held monthly at the hall of the Catholic Church.

The text on this page is estimated to be only 29.87% accurate

212 SECRET AND BENEVOLENT ORGANIZATIONS. The Grand Army of the Republic formed an organization in June, 1881, of the old soldiere about Femdale. J. N Adams, Commander, G. L. Benedict, Adjutant. A Band of Bone was organized in Eureka by C. S. Haswell. i„ 1878. It was designed for children, and was very successful i„ point, of numbers. It has recently been resuscitated and its field of labor enlarged so as to include adults as well as children. It is called CarHeld Lodge, and at present has 103 members. No Surrender Loyal Orange Lodge, No. 143, grants sick, funeral and other benefits. It meets first and third Saturdays of each month. It was organized February 21, 1877, and has 120 members; and lodge furniture, coin and securities, valued at about 83,000. There are numerous other secret and benevolent organizations in the county, but from the list already given a stranger will learn that the inhabitants are of a social nature. TKMl'ERANCE ORGANIZATIONS. Probably the first temperance organization was an order started in Areata in 1857, called the *' Reformed Drunkards." Soon after the Sons of Temperance held numerous meetings, and nourished for a time. The first organization was at Eureka in January, 1858, called "Morning Star " Division. It met in Murdock's Hall. The Rev. P. H. Shafer officiated as Deputy W. P. On the ruins of the Sons was built up the Good Templars. The last meeting of the order elected for the northern district the following officers for the year 1882: D. C. T. and D.D., W. K. Brown, Eureka; D. V. T., Sister Campton, Rohnerville; D. S. ; A. M. Gill, Rohnerville ; D. F. S. ; G. W. Hopkins, Areata; D.T., Sister Julia Stearns, Areata; D. M. ; A. J. Coyle, HydesmI1,,1) I . ( i. ; V. ( 'abarus, Trinidad ; D. O. G. ; W. B. McClane, Areata. At the session of 1882 the Femdale Lodge reported a membership of forty-two; the Port Kenyon Lodge, twentyfour; North Star Lodge, twenty -nine; Mountain Lodge, twenty-seven; Hydesville Lodge, forty-nine ; Humboldt Lodge, eighty-four; Rohnerville Lodge, forty. The Good Templars in Humboldt County are banded together for the purpose of combatting the fell-destroyer— intoxicating liquors— together with all its concomitant baleful evils and influences. Lodges are flourishing in all parts of the county, but we were not able to obtain reports from the organizations. AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY. A preliminary meeting of citizens to organize a County Agricultural Society was held September 28, 1860, at Hydesville, of those "interested in the progress of Agriculture, the Mechanical Arts and the general Development of the Material Resources of Humboldt County." This meeting adjourned to October 13th, and the following officers were elected: Dr. Jonathan Clark, President, Samuel Strong, Vice-President, William Olmstead. Treasurer, and William J. Sweasey, Secretary. .lone 1. 1861, the Society held their first annual meeting at Brett's Hail, Eureka. The Hist fair was held at Hydesville on October 8, 9, and 10, 1861, and turned out to be a success. The Societj held its last fair at Rohnerville, October 4. 5, 6, and 7, 1881. It is now called the Ninth District Agricultural Association, and is composed of the Counties of Del Norte, Humbol.lt and Mendocino. The premiums were divided into five departments, viz: live-stock, mechanical products, agricultural products, fruits and miscellanous, the latter including household fabrics, fancy work, painting and drawing, etc. The highest prize, $25, is offered for the best display of agricultural implements. The following are the members of the Board for 1882: G. C. Barber and F. Z. Boynton, Ferndale; H. S. Case and Robert Porter, Hydesville; T. D. Felt, Rohnerville; Henry Rohner, Springville; E. C. Newton, Smith River, Del Norte County. Officers are, G. C. Barber, Ferndale, President; S. H. Crabtree, Rohnerville, Secretary; Morris Levinger, Rohnerville, Treasurer. THE EUREKA GUARD. The Eureka Guard was organized and became a part of the National Guard of the State of California in March, 1879, with about forty names on the roll of membership. The officers elected for the term were Alexander Campbell, Captain; J. B. Brown, First Lieutenant, and W. P. Hanna, Second Lieutenant. In the rank and file were many who had served in various positions in the army during the " late unpleasantness." The work of drilling was at once commenced, and it was not long before the company could execute many evolutions in a creditable manner. Lieutenant Brown was commissioned Captain; William P. Hanna was promoted to First Lieutenant, and James T. Kelcher, Second Lieutenant. Under this set of officers the company has moved for nearly two years. Captain Brown, during that period, has given all the attention possible to this command, has spent valuable time and money, and, with the assistance of his officers, has made great improvement in the company. Much interest has been taken by all, privates as well as officers, and the Eureka Guard to-day stands second to no company of militia in the State. Their arms, accoutrements and property are in splendid order, their armory supplied with everything necessary, and their execution of the manual and knowledge of tactics would rank among the first. The annual election for commissioned officers of the Eureka Guard was held in December, 1881, at the armory. Fortynine members of the company were present and voted. Major Pierce H. Ryan presided by order of Brigadier General J. G. Wall. J. W. Freese was elected Captain, W. P. Hanna as First Lieutenant, and Jas. T. Kelcher as Second Lieutenant — the officers elect for the ensuing term.

THE CHURCHES OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY. 213 Churches of Humboldt County. Dale of Organization, First Members, Officers, Present Membership, Location, Present Condition. FIRST SERMON PREACHED. It is beyond doubt, that the church history of this county begins with a meeting appointed for divine worship at Bucksport, early in the summer of 1850, on which occasion the Rev. A. J. Huestis preached the sermon. These services were continued every Sabbath, with few exceptions, until 1853, when as a field for missionary work the M. E. Conference supplied Humboldt by the appointment of regular pastors of which, at Eureka, the Rev. James Corwin was first. The first class in Eureka was formed by the Rev. Chas. Hinckley, November 27» 1859. The school house now standing and still used as such, on the corner of G and 3d Streets, did duty on the occasion of religious exercises and lectures, for all denominations. The first Methodist church building in Eureka was built and dedicated in 1859. The bell 'for this church was obtained through the efforts of the pastor in charge, Rev. Chas. W. Hinckley, and was first hung from the top of a large stump near where the building now stands. Mr. H. was accustomed to do his own bell-ringing, and, what is not always the case, also to preach his own sermons; and it may be added, no one found fault with the tone of the bell or of the preacher. Afterwards this building was sold and removed from the lot, and in 1866 the present one was erected in its place, incurring a heavy debt, which was not discharged until August, 1874. The Rev. Ed. J. Jones was then pastor and mainly instrumental to this result. During the pastorate of the Rev. Dr. Haswell the church building was much improved. There are sittings for about 600, gallery and floor. The parsonage, situate on the adjoining lot, is a modest, unpretentious cottage, well furnished, and affords the usual comforts and conveniences of modern dwellings. The aggregate value of the church property is §5,500. The first Trustees were G. D. Wilson, A. J. Huestis and B. L. Waite. The present number of members is seventy-nine, but its highest number has reached one hundred. A good library belongs to the Sunday-school of about 300 volumes, and the school is in a most prosperous condition, having now 210 scholars. Within the twelve years last preceding about SI 4,600 have been distributed for salaries of pastors, and benevolent contributions. S. H. Rhoades is now the pastor. Rohnerville M. E. Church was organized in 1852, by Wesley Harrow. He preached near Eel River on a place owned by Robert Roberts. In 1853 the services were conducted by two local preachers, J. Burnell and Mr. Stringfield. In 1854 the church was connected with the Eel River circuit, and James Corwin was appointed the first regular pastor. This charge has been quite prosperous, having as high as fifty- five members in past years, and at present forty-six. The present pastor is H. H. Stevens. The property is valued at $2,000. The society owns a church parsonage, and a barn and the ground on which they stand. They are free from debt and in tolerable good condition. The church will seat about 150 persons. The parsonage is neat and attractive in design, and most pleasantly situated. • FIRST CHURCH BUILDING ERECTED. The M. E. Church at Areata was organized in 1850. Rev. Asa P. White, the pioneer preacher of California, pitched his tent of blue cloth in San Francisco in 1849. He commenced his labors in Areata in the same tent where afterwards stood Kirby's stable, and there organized this society. The present minister is John B. Chisholm, and the membership is forty-four. The society has a church and parsonage valued at $2,200, and the society is in a flourishing condition. Christ Church, Eureka, was organized June 1, 1870. Its stated services are held on every Sunday, and other services as the rector may appoint. On the evening of June 8, 1870, the members of the parish met and elected a vestry, which organized by the election of Thomas Walsh, Senior Warden, and Robert Searles, Junior Warden. The vestry then called the Rev. J. Gierlow to the rectorship of the parish. The church was consecrated on the 5th day of February 1871, by the Rt. Rev. W. I. Kip, D. D. The Rev. J. S. Thomson was elected rector January 1, 1872, and Was followed by Rev. J. H. Babcock and Rev. W. L. Githens. The Rev. H. D. Lathrop, D. D., of the Church of the Advent, San Francisco, accepted a call and entered upon the duties July 14, 1878, and still continues as rector. This church with rectory occupies one-quarter block, handsomely inclosed and improved with attractive shrubbery. The architect of both was I. W. Fairfield, and the designs represent those styles common to the rural churches of England. A chime of five bells, the gift of the present Mayor of Eureka, T. Walsh, rings out from its pinnacled tower their weekly invocations to worship and in the surprise of the moment, takes the stranger back beyond the tall redwoods and the mountains, to his distant home. The interior appointments are in harmony with the surroundings. The east window to the rear of the desk is a splendid mosaic of stained glass of diamond pattern. The value of church and parsonage is not Jess than 87,500, and financial condition good. The United Brethren in Christ Church is situated at Rohnerville. The first minister sent here was Israel Sloan, who organized the first class on Eel River in 1862. His memory is dear to the people of Rohnerville, where he was buried in the old cemetery. In 1865 the second class was organized. The first minister

214 THE CHURCHES OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY. was Rev. .1 B. Hamilton, The society have a comfortable phuich, a good parsonage, and two camp-grounds, one on Eel ,:, , , the other about one mile north of SpringvOIe, and is entirely ftee from debt. The membership is eighty-seven. The present minister is C. F. I jane. The Iff. E. Church at Ferndale was established during Indian troubles and planted amidst many difficulties. The country was a forest and the circuit was large, embracing Petrolia and Rohnervillej the minister in charge frequently exposing his life to the dangers of savages and the crossing of swollen Streams in the course of his itinerant duties. Dr. Morrow organized the church in I860. Bev. F. H. Woodward is now in charge. There are now seventy-five members and twentyseven probation^*. The church property consists of two lots, church, parsonage, etc., also camp-meeting ground ; altogether of the value of $4,400, and this without any debts or Liabilities. First Congregational Church in Eureka was organized October 30, I860. No record shows the names of the first Trustees, of which Dr. Jonathan Clark was President. It was in the charge of Rev. W. L. Jones, as first pastor. Its present minister is the Rev. C. A. Huntington. The greatest number of members appearing on the official minutes of this church is sixty-three, and the present membership consists of twenty-four persons. The church building and parsonage attached are neat and attractive in general appearance, and for their respective uses well furnished, and handsomely situated on the corner of 4th and G Streets. The church property is valued at §6,000, and in out of debt. Ferndale Congregational Church was organized March 17, 1 876. Its first meeting of the society was held in a small hall ; at the present time it is the owner of a large church building. On July 24, 1881, it was free from debt and dedicated. Dr. Warren preached the dedicatory sermon. Mr. Strong gave a brief resume of the work done by the society for the past five years. Hon. Joseph Russ has aided this society very much in donations. It received from this source the lumber for the entire building, a fine bell, and about one-sixth of the whole debt. Its first pastor was Rev. E. O. Tade, and its present one is Rev. Phillip Combe. Mr. A. Berding, Mrs. J. M. Lewis, and Dr. F. A. Alford were the original members. Its present and greatest number in membership is forty-one. The property, consisting chiefly of church building and lot is valued at $5,000. The Presbyterian Church at Areata was organized January 1 1861. Rev. Alexander Scott was first pastor. He preached iu the Methodist Episcopal Church for about sixteen months previous to the erection of the church. The membership consisted at that time of three persons only. B. Wyman, George Uanskin, and Sarah Nixon, the last named still remaining as an active member. Fifty-five is the present number of members. The church was dedicated March 31. 1861. It and the parsonage are pleasantly situated, occupying one-quarter of a block under neat inclosure ami with attractive surroundings. It has two organs and a library of 200 volumes, valued at $2,500. The disbursements for salary of pastor and benevolent purposes, are about $1,100 annually, and for the twentytwo years since the organization of the church, has reached a total of $24,000. Its financial condition is perfect. The Rev. James S. Todd, the present pastor, occupied this charge in 1868. He left the place in 1877, but returned to it again in 1880. United Brethren in Christ Society meets in its own house of worship regularly on every Sabbath. It was organized in the year 1877, with G. W. Burtner, pastor. Its present membership numbers twenty-seven. Its property consists of a neat little church and parsonage comfortably furnished, and the lot on which they are situated, and is of a total value of $1,500, unembarrassed financially, and in good condition. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS. The Roman Catholic Church at Eureka was organized in 1858, the Rev. Father Thomas Crinion being the first in charge. The present pastor is the Rev. C. M. Lynch. The church polity of this denomination secures for it a unity in its secular as well as spiritual relations that is unknown to Protestant churches taken collectively. The membership in Eureka and attending the ministrations of the Catholic Church, numbers about 1,200. The church building and parsonage are neat in appearance and pleasantly located, the former affording seats for about 400 persons. The total value, $5,000. The church was erected in 1861. Besides the above, the Catholic Churches in the county are as follows: Ferndale Church, built in 1878, with seating capacity of about 200 ; assessed valuation of property, $650 ; number of Catholics in the vicinity, 200. Table Bluff Church built in 1869, and numbers in attendance about 150 from the vicinity. Property valued at $500. Rohnerville Church was built in 1871 with sittings for about 150. There are also churches organized at Areata and Trinidad. St. Joseph Convent of Mercy, situated in Eureka; occupies one block, and unexceptionally commands one of the most diversified and beautiful views of the city and bay, as well as the further landscape, that can be found in the place. Its inclosures are adorned with whatever of foliage and shrubbery and flowers that can render it a charming retreat to the occupants, and the building itself is a prominent feature among the improvements of the town. The Institute, in charge of the Sisters of Mercy, enjoys deservedly a high reputation for their care and thoroughness of training; number of Sisters nine; pupils, sixty. The value of this fine property is about $10,000.

THE VARIOUS NEWSPAPER ENTERPRISES. 215 Newspaper Enterprises. First Newspapers, Failures and Triumphs, List of Papers of Humboldt County from 1854 to 1882. EARLY in the year 1853, among the few who endeavored to form a settlement and build up Humboldt County, came Dr. E. D. Coleman. He was a man of nerve and ability, possessed of a good education and a literary turn of mind. Union, now Areata, and Eureka grew rapidly, the former taking the lead and holding it for some years. When the prospects for Union were the brightest, when the tide of immigration had set northward and was fast flowing into Humboldt Bay, Dr. Coleman conceived the idea of starting a newspaper and furnish reading matter for the inhabitants of northern California With every fresh influx of people the more favorably did he look upon the matter, until he determined to put his plan into execution, and on the second day of September, 1854, he presented to the people of Humboldt County the initial number of THE HUMBOLDT TIMES. As Eureka was the most central point the paper was published at that place. The commercial, agricultural and mining interests of this section were then in their infancy, in fact barely opened. The harbor was second only to that of San Francisco, from Panama on the south to the Straits of Fuca on the north. Steamers entered the port on an average of once a month, and mail facilities were little better than none at all. With all conceivable obstacles before him, the Dr. began his task. The Times was independent in politics, and was devoted purely to the interests of the people. It was ably edited, its columns well filled with choice reading matter, and its typographical make-up excellent. Toward the close of the year, Union had made such rapid advancement and attained such' proportions, the county seat being located there, the Times was moved across the bay and published at Union, December 23, 1854. On the 22d of December, 1855, E. D. Coleman sold out the Times to Walter Van Dyke and Austin Wiley, the former taking editorial charge, the Doctor taking his departure from the Junty and locating at Washington, D. C. These gentlemen carried on the paper until January 23, 1S58, when W. Van Dyke transferred his interest to A. Wiley, the junior partner, and again took up his profession, that of attorney-at-law. As time rolled on the business interests experienced a change of base. The great timber resources were being opened on a large scale. Mills for manufacturing lumber were established at Eureka; the county seat was removed from Union to Eureka; it was made the principal shipping point, and immigration and the increase of business caused the village to make rapid strides in the march of progress and take upon itself the habiliments of a town. The business finger indicated Eureka as the objective point, and at the close of the fourth volume Mr. Wiley moved the Times office back to Eureka August 28, 1S58, where it has been published without an omission up to the writing of this. June 9, 1860, Mr. Wiley transferred the paper to Walter Van Dyke and L. M. Burson. In 1858, when the Times was moved from Union the citizens of that place were in no manner of means pleased with the change, and at once made arrangements for the publishing of another paper. Accordingly, on the loth of December, 1858, the Northern Galifomian made its appearance with S. G. Whipple as editor and proprietor. After running about, eighteen months, the owners were satisfied that there was neither business nor patronage in the county sufficient to warrant the publication of two papers, and the Galifomian was merged into the Times, July 14, 1860, L. M. Burson withdrawing from the last-named paper and S. G. Whipple associating himself with Walter Van Dyke as publishers of the Times. The paper was carried on1 by the two gentlemen above named until March 30, 1861, when W. Van Dyke withdrew, having transferred his interest to S. G. Whipple. August 16, 1862, Mr. Whipple sold out to A. Wiley and Walter Bohall, Mr. Wiley again taking charge as editor. In April, 1864, Mr. Wiley having been elected to represent Humboldt County in the Legislature, J. E. Wyman was placed in charge of the editorial columns, the ownership remaining the same, and on the 27th of May Mr. Wiley transferred his interest to J. E. Wyman, the firm being Wyman & Bohall. August 19, 1865, J. E. Wyman purchased Mr. Bohall's interest. Business, which at that time was at a standstill, soon began to pick up and improve. A large number of people settled in the county, new industries were opened up, and the march of progress was onward and upward. The mail facilities were greatly improved, lines of steamers were placed on the route between the bay and San Francisco, and an era of prosperity was inaugurated. Under the management of J. E. Wyman, the Times was Republican in politics, and pursuing a consistent course, steadily worked into the good graces of the people. In 1873 a telegraph line was built from Eureka, connecting with the Western Union at Petal uma, and arrangements were made by J. E. Wyman to publish a daily paper at Eureka. The line was completed' and in working order the latter part of the year. DAILY HUMBOLDT TIMES. First number was issued January 1, 1874. For protection, as well as to be placed in apposition to receive the latest and most reliable news from all parts of the world, the Times joined the Associated press, and received all dispatches from that source. On the 1st of January, 1875, W. H. Wyman, a son of the proprietor, was taken into the business, and the firm was from that time known as J. E. Wyman & Son. The Daily Times

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THE VAB10VS NKWSFAPKR ENTERPRISES. He increaong bnrinew. NOTen.be. 5, 1880, J. B. v y. . ^^rri"S,vt^: aince 1H

THE VARIOUS NEWSPAPER ENTERPRISES. 217 compelled to suspend. The material was moved to Eureka, where A. J. Bledsoe commenced the publication of the semiweekly News in 1881. The News suspended after being in existence three months. FERNDALE ENTERPRISE. This paper, a seven-column folio, 24x36, was established May 11, 1878, by W. G. Jones & Co. The Enterprise was an outgrowth of the indomitable spirit of energy that has ever characterized the citizens of Ferndale and Eel River Valley in their determination to be surpassed by no other portion of the county. The paper, though founded by inexperienced and youthful men, soon became a power in the county and did much toward demonstrating the possibility of navigating Eel River entrance by ocean steamers. It has labored unremittingly to advance the material interests of southern Humboldt and always has been found with the people in all vital questions of civil or religious polity, numbering among its supporters men of all parties and of all sects. November 19, 1880, the firm of Jones & Co. was succeeded by the present proprietor, F. A. Alford. He, also a novice, being by profession a physician, a graduate from the noted school of Bellevue Hospital Medical College, New York City, in 18G9, brought new life and vigor to the Enterprise. Almost immediately a Gordon job press and full outfit of job type were added, and other important changes made in the office and in the paper. The business was reduced to a system under the new regime, the most important feature being the collection of all bills the first of each month, by a regular collector. No dead advertising matter has been allowed to remain in its columns under any "circumstances. It is well supported by home and foreign advertisements, being recognized as occupying a field unfilled by any other publication, supplying a section some fifty miles square. Independent in polities, the editorials are always outspoken on all questions of interest, and aim to be radical in their conservatism. The loeaU have made the paper a recognized standard for local and county news, doubling the circulation in a year, which now averages about 800. January 1, 1882, the office was removed to a building of its own, and fitted up with every convenience. It is now situated south of the Pioneer Livery Stables, on Main Street, and presents a handsome front, twenty-eight feet in width. It occupies rooms 16x32 feet, and 12x20 for composing and press rooms and offices. The first papers from the new quarters was issued January 6, 1882, and is a fair specimen and representative paper of southern Humboldt. THE DEMOCRATIC STANDARD. The Weekly Standard was established in June, 1875, by R. V Cladd & Co. In June, 1877, it was purchased by the present publisher, William Ayers, Esq., who shortly afterwards changed its title to '•The Democratic Standard" In the spring of 1878, it commenced the discussion of the greenback financial doctrine, to which it has adhered ever since, being the first greenback paper published in California. The main feature and effort of the paper has been the description of the various sections of the county, together with the discussion and agitation of bay and harbor improvements. In this srlf-allotted task it has been untiring, letting no opportunity pass that would serve to give the subject a fresh stirring up. It is a representative northern California paper, gleaning all important items from the northern tier of counties into its columns. Its publisher makes it a point to travel over some portion of the territory it serves, every year, to study the country, its needs and capabilities, and get acquainted" with its inhabitants. The ultimate aim of the Stanxlard is to leave no stone unturned in the effort to make Eureka the port of supply, export and import, for the whole section of country in semi-circle from 100 to 150 miles surrounding Humboldt Bay. From its columns we have gathered much valuable info-mation, used in compiling this History. DAILY AND WEEKLY TELEPHONE. The Telephone was first issued December 21, 1881, by Messrs. Wiley & Heney, proprietors. It is 21x28 inches in size, with six columns on a page. It is the most complete daily paper ever published in the county. Its initial number contained seventy-two local paragraphs, all of them readable and newsy. The firm has made an independent telegraph arrangement, and has secured the services of a competent telegraphic correspondent in San Francisco. It has daily and weekly editions. A. Wiley was associated with Walter Van Dyke twenty-six years ago on the Times. The publishers are practical newspaper men and very well know how to manage and make a successful journal. It is bright, and keeps up with the demand for local items and late news. ROHNERVILLE HERALD. The publication of the Herald was commenced at Rohnervillc, Humboldt County, on the 2d day of November, 1881, by Charles W. Gordon, at the age of 19 years, who had been a resident of the county since 1872. The people of Rohnerville demanded a newspaper, and the present publisher took advantage of the opportunity, and has found the venture a successful one. The subscription list had reached nearly 450 on the 1st day of March, and the paper shows a very liberal advertising patronage. It is the official organ for publication of land notices in eastern and southern Humboldt and is published at S1.50 a year. The publisher declares his paper to be Independent-Republican. It is a creditable paper, and does honor to the people of Rohnerville and vicinity, who are determined to have a paper of their own in which to set forth the advantages of that prosperous village.

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218 TJIK VARIOUS NEWSPAPER ENTERPRISESJournalism of Del Norte County. JuBTaftei Crescent City sprang into exist nee, on June 10, 1854, was issued the first number of the Herald, which for seven years was a weekly visitor to its friends, and a vigilant Bnd earnest factor of the growth and welfare of this section of ( iolifornia. The press and material were shipped from San Francisco by bne ,.,!,,, „.; and proprietors, Messrs B. Y. Fechtig and 0". B. Preanor. ft was a twenty-column paper, published weekly, at ;, subscription price of ten dollars per annum. The very first issue contained an article upon the subject of a wagon road to connect this place with southern Oregon— a question which still gives rise to discussion. It professed to be " independent " in politics, but really had a very decided Democratic inclination |„ September, L854, Mr, Fechtig withdrew, and S. H. Grubler assumed his place. Under the ne%v management the bone of the Herald was unaltered. The last issue by Grubler & Froanor was June K L856, when T. S. Pomeroy entered the partnership and took editorial charge. This co-partnership Continued until August 1!), L859, when Frcanor withdrew, and the paper remained in the exclusive control of the latter. He continue. 1 at its head until the completion of its seventh volume, June 8, 1861, when he removed to Jacksonville, Oregon, witli the entire office. T. S. Pomeroy came to Crescent City in 1853 as Clerk of Klamath County, when the seat of Government was removed to this place. In 1856 he was appointed County Judge to fill a vacancy. In 1861 he established in Jacksonville the Southrni Oregon Gazette, \u connection with O'Meara, now of the San Francisco Examiner, This was in the dark days when the Union toppled upon its foundation. The Gazette was too pronouncedly" Seccsh," and was refused admission to the mailsThis action of the Postmaster General ended its life. After a lingering and painful illness he died here. He was an active positive man of many virtues and few faults. The Crescent City Courier issued its first number September 12, 1872, with Walter B.Thorpe as editor and proprietor. Under his management the Courier flew the Republican colors, and was the only paper that has ever in Del Norte assumed openly the partisanship of any political party. In his issue of March 7, 1874, he announced the sale of the paper and bid an affectionate adieu to the scenes of his early life. From here he went to Eureka, and subsequently to Areata, where he established the Areata Leader, but sold his property there and went to Sacramento, and thence to Washington, D. C. At last accounts he was still at the National Capitol. On the 14th of March, 1874, without interruption, the Courier appeared with Mason & Tack as proprietors, the former, Wm. B. Mason, making the editorial salutatory and introduction. This firm was beyond question the strongest that has solicited support for a paper in Del Norte. Both were typographers and neither was unfamiliar with pencil and scissors. Both had and still have, a large circle of warm, sincere friends. Win. B. Mason, the senior partner, spent nearly all his life in Crescent City, and has led a life such as is seen only in the shifting scenes of a •« far West." A school boy here of long ago, he has* grown to man's estate with many of its virtues and none of ii vices. Frequently, in various capacities, has he been called upon as a servant of the people, the last time being as Assemblyman from this county to the Legislature of 1870 and 18S0, to which he was elected as a straight Republican. On the 12th of November, 1S79, Silas White resumed the publication of the Courier which he continued until the 9th of February, 1881. The Del Norte Record was first started as a free monthly, April 19, 1879, by J. E. Eldridge, and was published weekly, beginning May 13th, and in September of that year it was slightly enlarged. With the second volume, May 8, 1880, the paper was enlarged to its present size, twenty-eight columns. On the 5th of February, encouraged by success thus far and the business prospects of the future, the Courier was bought and consolidated with the Record after its last issue on the 9th. The editor does not feel that the field of his labors warrants the advocacy of any set of party tenets and still abstains from the expression of party views, and has taken up the cudgels neither for nor against opposing factions nor men. The paper is a valuable sheet. The editor came here many years ago, and has grown grey as the town matured in years. SCHOOLS OF DEL NORTE. The following is a list of school districts of Del Norte, and the amount of money to which each is entitled in 1S82, as apportioned by John Miller, Superintendent of Schools. Districts. Crescent Bradford Happy Camp. Rowdy Cr . . . Lincoln Redwood Elk Valley . . . Fort Dick Total . State. Library. $1,009.11 S26.16 370.94 41.22 311.16 34.57 251.37 27.93 249.07 27.68 242.17 26.91 267.47 29.72 244.48 27.16 S2.945.77 $241.35 Total. $1,035.27 412.16 345.73 279.30 276.75 269.08 297.19 271.64 S3.187.12 DEL NORTE COUNTY OFFICERS, 1882. Superior Judge. .J. E. Murphy Assemblyman. . . W. B. Mason Sheriff C. E. Hughes Clerk and Auditor. P. H.Peveler Treasurer Wm. Saville District Attorney .Edgar Mason Assessor .... W. H. Woodbury Cor. & Pub. Adra . . J. F. Frantz Co. Surveyor. . A. H. Cleveland Supt. Pub. Schools. John Miller Deputy Sheriff. . . .Jos. Endert Deputy Sheriff .J. E. Eldredge Deputy Sheriff. Jeremiah Lane Co. Phys'n . Dr. J. W. Robertson

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First Battalion Mountaineers, California Volunteers, Service of the United States. Prepared by Hon. J. Clark. It link. FIELD. Lieut.-Col., and Commanding Humboldt Military District Major Major STAFF. First Lieut, and Regimental Adj., and A. A. A. Gun., Humboldt Military District First Lieut., Co. F, and Regimental Adj., and A. A. A. Gen., Humboldt Military District First Lieut, and Regimental QuarterM aster Surgeon Assistant Surgeon NON-COMMISSIONED STAFF. Sergeant Major Commissary Sergeant. Band Master LINE. Captain Company A . ,\aiin-. Stephen G. Whipple. William S. R. Taylor * 'liarlos VV. Long Acquila W. Hanna. . Alpheus W. Randall . William H. Pratt.. Jonathan Clark Theodore D. Felt. . . William P. Hanna. John T. Best Roswel Tupper... Charles W. Long Captain Company B Captain Company C Captain Company D Captain Company E Captain Company F First Lieutenant Company A j Knyphausen W. Geer First Lieutenant Company B Isaac W. Hempfield George W. Ousley.. Abraham Miller. . . . William C. Martin.. John P. Simpson Robert Baird First Lieutenant Company C Fivsl Lieutenant Company D .. ... First Lieutenant Company E First Lieutenant Company F Second Lieutenant Company A . Second Lieutenant Company B. Second Lieutenant Company C. John A. Watson R. F. Herrick W. W. Skinner Alpheus W. Randall Leonard C. Beckwitb Edward Hale Thomas Middleton.. I>ate or Com in is. Bfon. Date of Rank. April 27,1863. June 2, 1863. Oct. 3, 1S64.. April 27, 1863. June 1, 1863... June 19,1863.. June 5, 1863... June 5,1863.. June 19,1863. Second Lieutenant Company D William N. Tuttle — Second Lieutenant Company E W. W. Frasier Second Lieutenant Company F. ... Henry B. Mathewson Second Lieutenant Company B j John S. Hughes Feb. 9, 1863 Feb. 9, 1863.... April 4,1863... August 19. 1863 Feb. 28, 1S63.. July 1, 1863... April 27,1863.. April 27,1863.. June 5, 1863. . . Dec. 4, 1863... June 18, 1863. . August 25, 1863 April 27,1863.. April 27, 1S63-. June 5, lS(i.i. Dec. 5, 1S63..JunelS, 1S63-June 19, 1863.. Januar}-. 1865. June 5, 1863.. . June 4, 1863... June 19, 1863. . Feb. 9,1863... Feb. 9, 1863.. . April 4, 1863- . August 19, 1863 March 2. 1863. June 30,1863.. April 27, 1863.. April 27, 1863- . June 4, 1863. .. Dec. 3,1863.-. June 18,1863.. August 20, 1863 April 27, 1863. April 17, 1863June4, 1863... Dec. 5, 1863.. June 18, 1863. .1864.. It p marks. Headquarters Humboldt Military Dist., Ft. Hum boldt, 1863; Ft. Gaston. 1863-4: Ft. Humboldt, 1S64-5 Resigned in 1S04 ____« Promoted Major Oct. 3, 1864, via Win. S. Ri Taylor, resigned. Command of Ft. Gaston 1864-5.. January 1, 1865 — Out of service by general order from War Department, mustering out extra Lieutenants on Starl'-Appointments January, 1S65 — Appointed, vice Acquila W. II anna, mustered out of service January 1, 1865 — Out of service by general order from War Department, mustering out extra Lieutenants on Start- Appointments .... In charge of Hospital at Ft. Baker, 1863, Ft. laqua, 1863-4, Ft. Gaston, 1864, Ft. Humboldt, 1864-5. Declined In command of Ft. Baker in 1863, Ft. laqua, 1863-4. Promoted Major Oct. 3, 1S64, vice Wm. S. R. Taylor, resigned In command of Camp Curtis in 1865, Gamp Anderson, 1864, Ft. Gaston, 1863 In command of Burnt Ranch, Cal., in 1864 Detailed as Mustering Officer in 186 4 In Command of Camp Grant, Cal., in 1863-4-5. In command of Camp Forks, of Solomon, and Camp Lincoln Promoted Capt., Co. A, Oct., 1S64, vice Chas. W. Long, promoted. Command Ft. laqua, 1865. In Command of Camp Fawn Prairie in 1863. Resigned, 1864 Adjutant and A. Q. M. and A. C. S. at Ft. Gaston. In Command of Ft. Jones, 1863, Camp Lincoln, 1864. Jan., 1865, detached from Co.; appointed Regimental Adj, and A. A. A. Gen., Humboldt Military Dist Resigned in 1864 to accept appointment of Indian Agent, Hoopa Valley Reservation Resigned in 1864 Promoted First Lieut., Co. A, vice Knyphausen W. Geer, promoted Vice Edward Hale, resigned. The First Battalion Mountaineers, California Volunteers, were mustered into the service of the United States for the suppression of Indian hostilities in Northern California, serving during the years 1S63, 64, and '65. The following counties are entitled to the credit of raising the companies comprising the Battalion: Humboldt County, Companies A and B; Trinity County, Company C; Mendocino County, Company E; Siskiyou County, Company F; Northern Counties, at large, Company D.

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Officers of Humboldt County, from 1853 to 1882BPAHXD FOR THE COUNTV HISTORY BY D. CUTTEN. ESQ. Date Assemblymen. County Jadf*. i 53 1854 i 55 i 5(3 1857 i 51 i 59 I860 I 61 1862 1863 1864 L86B 1866 1867 1*68 L869 1870 1ST I 1872 is?:; 1X71 1875 1876 1ST 7 1878 1879 1880 lssl 1882 A. II . \I unlock. I . Rieka..-. C. S. Ricks... II. W. Havonfl E. L Davi I;, m. Boreon Wm. I'., tfagans Geo. ii. Work Geo. II. Work A. Wiley. A. Wiley A. J. HuuhUs. . \ .1 [luostis. < ' \\ eslmoreland < ' VVosI moroland J.J. Dollav^n. . J.J, l loHaven Joseph Ruse Joseph Rubs. . i;. 0. Eurlbutt. iv 0. HurlbnM Jonathan Ciarli Jonathan I Hark Joseph RUBS. . . Joseph RuBfl W. B. Stoddard w. ii. Stoddard (.'. 0. Mudgett. (■'. c. Mudgett. . .i. B. .1. Iv .1. E. .i. !•;. .). k. A. J. A. .1 A. .1. A. .1. A. .1. A .1. .1. E, .1. E. .1. V, .i. !•;. J. B .1. E. .1. l-:. J. B. .1. B. .). B. .1. Iv j. i-;. o. n(r 1853 1 85 l 1855 1856 is;. 7 1858 1859 I860 1861 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 is. IT 1868 I SMI 1870 1871 1871' is 7:; 1874 1ST:. ]S7i; 1S77 1S7S 1879 1880 1881 1882 Surveyor. su pi of Schools J. S. Murray.. .1. S, .Murray.. .1. S. Murray Joseph Soeley. Joseph Sock-)- . . .1. S. Murray. . . .1. S. Murray.. . .1. S. Murray. . .1 . S. \ln fray. . . .1 . B. Ivinscley .1. B. Kinseley.. J. s. Murray. . .1. S. Murray... W. W. Skinner W. W. Skinner .1. S. .Murray. J. s, Murray. . .1 S. Murray.. .1 s Murray. . K. P. Herrick. R. F. lie nick. R. F. Herrick. R. F. E'errick. ft. F. Herrick. R. F. Herrick. Ii, F. Herrick. R. F. Herrick. R. F. Derrick. R. F. Herrick. K. F. Herrick. Administrator. A. J. Hue8tis. .. A .1. Huostis. .. E. H. Howard. F. H. Howard . H. H. Soverens. H. H. Soverens. W. L. Jones W. L. Jones.. . W. L. Jones. .. W. L. Jones. .. W. L. Jones. .. W. L. Jones... W. L. Jones — W. L. Jones J. B. Brown... J. B. Brown J. B. Brown J. B. Brown .. E. 0. Cummings E. C. Cummings E. C. Cummings E. C. Cummings J. B. Casterlin. J. B. Casterlin. J. B. Casterlin. J. B. Casterlin . J. B. Casterlin. H. J. Wyman Wm. Roberts .. Jamos Light. .. James Light — R. M. Williams. R. M. Williams. R. M. Williams. R. M. Williams. R. M. Williams. R. M. Williams. R. M.Williams. R. M. Williams. J. O. Kneeland. J. O. Kneeland. A.J. Tyrrell. A.J.Tyrrell... ('. B. Whitman. C. B. Whitman. John A. Whaley John A. W ha Icy J. A. Thomson . J. A. Thomson. J. H. Kimball. J. JI. Kimball . J. H. Kimball . J. H. Kimball O. H. Spring. . O. H. Spring. . O. H. Spring.. Byron Deming. Byron Deming. J. N. Hume — Amos Crane... Amos Crane.. . Amos Crane. .. B. Deming B. Deming Ii. D. Ley H. D. Ley Byron Deming. Byron Deming. L.Lewis Sbaw. L. Lewis Shaw. Wm.Todd Wm.Todd A. W. Randall A. W. Randall John L. Eby... John L, Eby. . J. H. Kimball.. J. H. Kimball. J. H. Kimball. J. H. Kimball. O. H. Spring. O. H. Spring. O. H. Spring. Supervisors.? First meeting of Board held May 7, 1S55. John Quick, Joseph S. Bowles, Jonathan Clark Jonathan Clark, H. S. Daniels, J. P. Langdon John M. Eddy, David Masten, Abner D. Sevier Jesse Dungan, Wm. C. Morten, Jonathan Freese Jonathan Freese, Wm. C. Martin, Seth Chism Wm. C. Martin, Seth Chism, A. P. Cuthrie Seth Chism, A. J?. Guthrie, H. S.Daniels A. P. Cuthrie, H. S. Daniels, Seth Chism Seth Chism. A. N. Cuptill, John Dolbeer Seth Chism, A. N. Cuptill, John Kelcher A. N. Cuptill. Wm. Carson, Thos. Hart Wm. Carson, Thos. Hart, S. W. Morrison.. S. W. Morrison, Thos. Hart, Ceo. H. Tilley S. W. Morrison, Ceo. H. Tilley, Seth Chism.. Ceo. H. Tilley, Seth Chism, S. W. Morrison Seth Chism, S. W. Morrison, W. J. Sweasey. S. W. Morrison, W. J. Sweasey, John W. Cooper W. J. Sweasey, John W. Cooper, C. C. Barber John W. Cooper, C. C. Barber, H. S. Daniels G. C. Barber, H. S. Daniels, Geo. S. Williams H. S. Daniels, Geo. S. Williams, C. C. Barber Ceo. S. Williams, G. C. Barber, Stephen Hill G. C. Barl.iT, S. Hill, A. Wiley, J. O. Dinsinore, D. A. Demerritt. . S. Hill, A. Wiley, J. O. Densmore, D A. Demerritt, Seth Chism. . J. 0. Densmore, Geo. H. Tilley, S. Hill, D. A. Demerritt, S. Chism. S. Hill, J. Hannah, E. M. Dowell, J. 0. Densmore, Seth Chism S. Hill, J. Hannah, E. M. Dowell, J. 0. Densmore, R. W. Stevens. S. Hill, J- Hannah, E. M. Dowell, J. 0. Densmore, R.W. Stevens. Court of Sessions from 1853 to 1861. 1S53— J. E. Wyman, J. N. Borden, S. L. Shaw. 1S54— J. E. Wyman, A. D. Sevier, D. F. Gilbert. 1855— .1. E. Wyman, H. F. Janes, D. F. Gilbert. 1856E. Wyman,, H. r\ Janes, D. F. Gilbert. 1S"»7— J. E. Wyman, A. J. Huestis, F. 8. Duff. 185S— A. J. Huestis, A. Hanaell, J. H. Kimball. 1&59— A. J luostis, John F. Moore, Beuj. T. Jameson. 1SG0— A. J. Huestis, J. H. Kimball, James S. Flerent. 1SI51— A. J. Huestis. J. H. Kimball, J. .\I. Cox. J Huestis • SujKiior Judge. t Appointed. t Resigned. § The first named was Chairman.